Dylan86GL10

Sorry, guess I am use to T03's that you had to have a pair of pliers to pull the rod back onto the flapper arm. Haven't modded the little itsy one on the GL yet, got a low mile TD04 on the shelf that was going in. Nice pile of turbo's, have worked on several of those before Nevertheless, I've never had any lag issue before and the hybrid on my Neon came with a factory threaded rod.

It does, lengthening the rod in effect lowers the static spring pressure (not rate which what you are talking about which will do the same thing). Basically the flapper will "crack open" at a lower psi then with a tight rod (high spring pressure because it is compressed more). We've done this lots of times on many different turbo cars, it works. Junkie's alternate method of the washers works equally well on cars where you have easy access to the wastegate actuator mount. Just not quite as easily adjusted but definately quicker, easier, and cheaper.

Correct, cut in half, thread with die, use coupling nut between the two pieces (allows adjustment, longer or shorter).

Yeah, I was all worked up for some dual range action!

Got it fixed but only took me 4 days of calling and emailing to get it straightened out. They refund the first order and I have to reorder the clutch again!

UMM they didn't ship me the part I ordered!?! Who have you been doing business with that requires you to pay for their screw up? Oh yeah and they expected me to pay restocking.

Its a bit overrated. Just don't slam the gas down before its warm. Driving will warm it up faster than idling. Don't run 15psi into your driveway and shut is off. A good 1/2 mile is plently to let the turbine slow down and the housing cool off a bit. Running sythetic oil is great for the turbo as the oil won't coke on the bearings.

ok so I order the $110 dollar XT-6 clutch and then send me a 2wd XT4 clutch. tried calling and was on hold for 30 minutes before i hung up. then the online service (live help) tells me i have to send back this clutch first at MY COST before they can enter a RMA for the right clutch!?!?!?!!?

How many miles does the motor have? The pump gasket usually goes first which allows internal pressure to bypass the motor.

You'd have to offer plug and play in my opinion as there is 3 awesome megasquirt retailers right now that have been around for years so you'd need something unique for subaru's. Second there are two board members here that have planning on releasing prebuilt units that you would heed to offer a cost or technical aspect over. The MAF is gone with any Megasquirt install unless you specifically reprogram it for a MAF signal vs MAP. For those like Gary, I'll have complete instructions and wiring diagrams posted within the next three weeks on how to install a MS (or MSNS'E) to the stock harness, without butchering, and have the ability to swap the stock computer back in.

If the wastegate actuator arm is just disconnected, reconnect it and put a safety pin or c-clip in the notch to hold it on. The only reason I can think that someone would wire it open it that if the center shaft locked up, the turbine would not spin and would cause more backpressure, opening the arm would relieve most of that. Pull the inlet and outlet on the compressor side and see if the compressor spins freely. Also check for excess oil on the outlet side of the compressor, a little is typical and may also be from the pcv.

Cyl 3, right in front of the turbo, seems to blow most often (headgasket anyway). I've never heard a conclusive why (heat from turbo, heat from turbo water, reduced oil pressure from turbo line, different flow in intake, different flow from exhaust?)

That should be about right. I'm surprise you've blown so many pistons. Does the microtech log? Do you have a functioning knock sensor that you can monitor the output on? Is it the same cylinder losing the piston? You could have a clogged injector leading to localized detonation.

WJM, And others, is the 86 TPS really a TPS (0-5v) sensor or just on/off full throttle type of switch? Looking at my wiring diagrams, it appears that it is not 0-5v. Thanks

Anti-Lock Brake System? Anyway you could mount ABS and just make it think you are always braking, then it will modulate the brake pressure to whatever wheel is turning fastest (less traction). The kicker here is that you need brake pressure generated so unless you press the pedal, you'd need some sort of high pressure pump. The other caveat is that most systems use common lines up to each wheel. So every wheel is going to receive braking and the "slipping" wheel less braking. You'd basically need to reverse the normal ABS operation. I don't know the duty cycle of normal ABS solenoids but I guess you could wire in a reversing circuit so that the valves are normally closed and ABS opens them to send pressure to the fastest wheels. You would then need to wire the system to "deactivate" when you press the brake pedal OR a circuit to "reverse" the reverse circuit. Not sure I kept any of that straight.

Gary, I hadn't been to the Extra website in a while but there is a mod for constant baro check which smoothes out the altitude/weather compensation if you do a lot of hill climbs http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/barocorrection.htm

You're the best

Once its setup its good to go. I can help you out when you're ready. The only thing I know of that MS doesn't address that most OEM's do it Baro check during operation. So if you changed elevation 3-4,000 ft without ever restarting the car, the tune could be off a bit but as long as closed loop is turned on and allowed to modify A/F it should take care of most of that discrepency. That's the only thing I can think of. Since WJM is changing motor series, perhaps he'd be so kind as to send us a MSQ file

There is also some on my website: http://www.dodgeneon.net/subaru/

Gary, I have a spare MSnS'e that I built a couple years ago. One is on my Neon but I haven't mounted or wired the spare on the wagon yet. I don't know if I'm going EDIS or distributor. As I have the 86 distributor I don't know how I'm going to address the constant spark signal. I'm still pretty new to subaru but I believe the 86 turbo distributor still has mechanical advance and not computer controlled (separate knock box). I could pin the advance so the signal out of the distributor is always at TDC. Getting the EDIS parts doesn't bother me but then I still need to machine and mount the crank wheel. Actually this weekend, there is the big MegaSquirt get together in Virginia Beach with the designers and folks from all over the country. We are meeting up at a dyno shop Saturday and Sunday. There should be details here: http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=104803&highlight=#104803

Thanks, that was my plan for now.

Jack, where did you go to school?

D-Cal, what's your name? I was on SDML back since 97, then FMML, and started turbododge.com with Mike V before Ken took it over. I reversed most of the addresses in the 87 computers and did 3bar SMEC conversions and had a working xtronics emulator before it took a dump. Sold the Shelby and the Neon just got a MSnS 'E for ease of configuration. Wow, small world running into you here. Dylan (formerly turbo electrics)

What spark trigger are you using? Distributor or EDIS?

Part time (2wd) will get better mileage I vote on a 5sp PT EA82 Wagon