seattlelegacy

You should swap in a dual range, that would be sweet!

Yeah, I saw that too. Realistically, what's the advantage to replacing them? It looks to me like the tag just takes up about an inch or two of slack. Even the old seatbelts in my beetle didn't have an "expiration" date, but I like anything I can get from free from a dealer.

I bought one for the 84 wagon from the guy "not associated" with CCR. I've only put about 2 miles on it though... . I heard great things about his axles, and the price was right.

Are you still using the original sending unit?

Crap. I was hoping it was a bushing or spring. Looks like I'll deal.

You're not alone. I also know a guy that has one and its fast, efficient and quiet. 45mpg is typical for his.

The 84 wagon shifter tends to point to the passengers side of the car. I haven't had any trouble shifting the car, or finding the gears, but it seems like the stick tends to point toward the passengers seat if I don't keep my hand on it. It doesn't look normal, any suggestions??

It appears there is a rubber strip all along the side of the wagon. It looks like rubber sandwiched between chrome. The rubber portion on mine appears faded, or maybe it was coated with something at some time? What was it like originally?? Thanks, Jordan

I SEARCHED, NEVERMIND. THANK YOU.

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I just noticed that the spare tires in the EA81s are a 15 inch wheel, and they're all over the place. They look thin, but has anyone tried running four of these with a better tire on them? Maybe they're not strong enough? The metal looks thinner.... any thoughts?? Jordan

Back in January, I purchased an 84 GL Wagon that I thought was a good deal. Maybe it was, maybe it wasn't. I paid 350.00. I put in a new axle (60 bucks plus shipping to send core back), new steering rack bushings, oil filler cap, two headlights(one new, one JY), a brakelight, front side light (parking light??) lense(JY), starter (JY). To date, I have put $514 into it, including title transfer. I'm guessing its due for a radiator (this one has a "seep" leak) that I'll probably also get from the JY. At this point its as good as a daily driver (I'll get it insured this week) but needs the timing done. BTW, the headlight, side lense and starter cost me 17 bucks at the Lynnwood PAP today. :headbang: To do: Timing 3" lift with pug alloys (there's a pug shop right by my house, time for some recon work) Roof rack Grill guard Stereo Lights, lights and more lights. After all that, I want one of those horns like the General Lee had. I found them online for about 75 bucks. Jordan

I feel like a kid on christmas eve. That 84 is going to get stripped.

Sure it is, now you have to find him!

You can pull the dealer cost (invoice) right off of www.autobytel.com or a comparable site. You should pay below the dealer cost if its an 05 and they're "clearancing" the car, not including any rebates (a lovely dealer trick). Remember, just because you get their car at less than it cost them doesn't mean they're not making something. Factories have something called "holdbacks" where basically, they give a dealer money back after they sell a car. With imported cas thats usually around 3%. Also don't let them add on one single other charge (another lovely dealer trick). A good example of this is "window etching" for 250.00 when it cost them about ten bucks. Another is charging you to detail the new car. What new cars need detailing? Please. The whole process shouldn't take more than 30 minutes. Usually a good technique is to figure out exactly what you are going to pay, walk in, give them that number (always ask for the sales manager thereby eliminating the need for someone to walk back and forth between you and the sales manager) and if they say "no, but how..." interrupt and ask if they have a hearing problem, and walk away. If they insist on haggling, tell them "look, you have 30 minutes to sell me that car for the price I gave you, and you just wasted 15 of them. 15 left, get going." Jordan

If you're going to remove the lines, you may as well replace them if you plan on having the car for more than a month. They're cheap. Also, I'm sure you already know, but make sure to bleed the hell out of them.

Brakes getting stuck is more than likely a caliper problem. Otherwise, when you changed your MC, did you completely flush the system, or did you just bleed a little off? I ask, because if you had sludgy BF in the MC, then its likely sludgy all over, which could also cause the brakes to stick. Your master cylinder is creating a lot of pressure, which is transferred to each wheel. If there is gunk in the lines, then when the pressure is applied and subsequently released, the gunk can hold pressure on the line to any given wheel. A cheaper option is to get an angle grinder and cut out your floorboards. I saw this on another board:

Just as an FYI, welding aint that hard. What's hard is being GOOD at it. But with exhaust, just keep welding and welding until its sealed. Its a good place to learn how to weld. I don't personally own a welder, but I noticed HF is selling MIGs for $120.00. Anyone ever used a HF cheapie welder? Hmmmmm..... might have to try one out..... after I rewire a 30 amp circuit to the garage..... Jordan

X2!

Nothing, my grandma loves them.

edrach will probably end up lending a hand, thanks guys.

Ed, we need to make a trip up to the pull a part. I know you offered when I needed an axle, but I ponied up and paid the 60 bucks for a rebuilt (I distinctly remember it being rainy at the time, LOL). Now I need a starter, and I'm not paying a hundred bucks. If you're headed to the yard anytime, let me know, I'll try to meet you. Oh, and I just replaced the battery, cleaned the cable terminals, no help. For good measure, I'll check the ignition switch cable too. Speaking of ignition, mine is funny - the key comes right out while the car is running - which will be nice for when I have to warm the car up. I can start it, pull the key out, lock it, and walk away without fearing that someone might steal all 400 bucks of joy. Ed, got your PM, we'll talk.

Wait, I think I know the problem. You don't hear any sound because no one puts music on tapes anymore. You can get a CD player for 50 bucks if you try hard enough. Try pricegrabber and sort by price.

93 leg wagon 1.5 yr 84 gl wag 1 month 88 gl wag (fiancee's) she's had (and now its MINE! ) for 5 years maybe??

My 84 GL wagon also needs a starter (or at least needs it rebuilt). I get the "click" "click" about ten times, then it finally engages. I was thinking pull a part for a used one since it is a hobby car (maybe 25 bucks???), but I guess worst case I could have someone like Acme auto electric rebuild it (at a cost close to replacement). What do the masses think?

My 84 desperately needs the timing done... does anyone in the seattle area have a timing gun I can borrow, or know where I can rent one? Since every car I have ever owned has had electronic ignition, I'm also wondering if it may just be worth my time to buy one. I noticed harbor freight has them for like 12 bucks, but I've been to TWO of their stores, and they're always out of them. Jordan