oregonloyale

you wanna sell the Idle air control valve out of the manual engine?

replied in your FS thread.

thanx. He has all AT IAC. Back to fishing for a MT IAC. Anybody?

Thats what I thought. So I need a MT IAC, anybody got one ???????

Bust out the starting fluid and spray down all the vac hoses while the car is running. If one of them is bad itll drop or raise in idle speed.

how high is high? Idle air control valve. Do you have a K&N air filter? Is your check engine light on?

Thats what I thought. Thanx

I believe mine is hitachi. So this means that Hitachi is the manual IAC and JECS is the auto IAC. Correct?

I need a IAC for my 90 2.2 manual . A fellow USMB user has one but its for a Auto trans. The only physical diff. is that the auto IAC has 3 prongs on it and the manual has only 2. Are they interchangeable?

Is it throwing any CEL's?

My IACV is bad. Doesnt close. So the idle stays around 1500-2000 rpm . Im waiting for replacement. Am I going to harm the car driving it around while I wait for the replacement?

If its the entire IAC with the magneto and its for a manual trans and it works. ILL TAKE IT. Thanx whats the paypal account #? I need it ASAP.

I was running some tests on my 90 legacy wagon 2.2l manual trans and found that my IAC is bad. The car is idling at around 2k @ normal op temp. pulled the IAC with ign. on , engine off and the plunger is all the way up inside the housing , w/the electrical connectors attached. If I unplug the IAC with the ign on , engine off , the plunger falls out of the housing. Also lost the spring that goes inside , GRRRRRRRRRR. Any help would be great. Suppose to sell the car tomorrow , but thats probably not gonna happen now. Also the lead wire has 3 prongs and the IAC only has 2 . I think its the wrong IAC to begin with?

nothing wrong with them . there made by goodyear for walmart. go get em.

I did the same thing and most of the seafoam just blew right threw. As the bottle says to let the car idle , and thats because the seafoam wont have time to adhere to the carbons on the cylinder walls. Oh well Ill try again. Thanx

OK codes are cleared . Check engine light stayed off till I got about 2 miles down the hwy @ 60mph. Need to pull the codes. Bought some electronics cleaner for the MAF and to R&R the old O2 sensor since i dont have the money to replace it. The electronics cleaner I have will 0 residue and has no flashpoints . I have used it on many a VW MAF. I should have the outcome by late tonight.

How did you get it in the PCV without the car stalling? I tried going thru the PCV but the car stalled and died everytime I removed the hose.

I have cleaned many a MAF on VW, as they are my primary tuning vehicle. Remove Maf from inttake. DO NOT TOUCH THE INSIDE OF THE MAF!!!!!!!!!! I cannot stress that enough , they are brittle and easliy snap. Get a can of Non conductive electronics cleaner. The kind that leaves "0" residue and start spraying. You can spray everywhere , its "0" residue and will not hurt the electronics as this is what the cleaner is for. Others say get some alcohol based cleaner, I forget exactly what but then put the cleaner in a bag w/the maf and shake. That is a NO NO in my book as it falls back to the fragility of the MAF. Legacy777 can attest to the fragility of a MAF . He foound out when he did the open filter element and didnt bracket it well enough and all the jarring around screwed up the MAF. So anywyas back to the cleaning. Once you have totally spryaed thpiss out of it let it sit in a nice room temp area and go have a beer, lets say 30 min. Then come back inspect for any residue, I doubt there will be , and bolt it back up. I would reset the ECU before firing it back up with the cleaned MAF , but thats just me . This way I would be starting from scratch, so to speak.

Ok car is sitting overnight with the battery unplugged because its 1am and Im to tired to do anymore. Ill hook it back up in the mornin. ECU will def. be reset by then , LOL. Anyways , man the trans fluid was LOW. Barely even showed up on the dipstick. Drained it and refilled it with 80w90 GL-5 gear oil Drained and filled oil with 10w30 syn blend (Conoco) Seafoamed the engine thru the PCV valve - I actually removed the PCV valve and filled thru the hole so as to get all the cylinders = smokey , LOL Replaced old gunked up PCV with fresh new one Realigned the driver window and got it back on track, rolls up and down nicely now. And pulled all the codes as stated above. Well see what tomorrow brings. Im going to bed. Goodnight.

Pulled the codes. 11 22 23 24 32 33 49 Now this car has probably had these stored for awhile so Im gonna reset the ECU and see what pops up while I drive it. Also have to remember I have a K&N drop in aswell as butchered underside of airbox and a 2" Magnaflow exhaust w/the 2nd cat removed.

Got it . Borrowed from another fellow subie lovers site. Legacy777 http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

or unplug fuse #14 for about 15-20 min then plug it back in start car but dont touch the gas for about 1 min. i think thats the way it goes. Hold on Ill find the write up.

ahhhh ................. I hear ya. Well so much for that idea. Gonna just try a overnight drain of the trans gear oil and then fill with fresh 80w90 stock and see if that works. If it doesnt work then Ill try some high dollar stuff. I can fill my trans w/the stock 80w90 for the same cost as 1 quart of redline. Hebce try the cheap stuff 1st . Its not like its gonna hurt anything.

80w90 is the specified gear oil, is it not? temps rarely get below 35 in salem oregon. Its usually between 38 and 60 in the winters.

I would manually reset the ECU so it can remap itself. Also when you add more air the ECU sees it as running lein and starts to dump more gas in thru the injectors in order to richen it up.