oregonloyale

How do I test the egr and pcs selenoid , Im getting #34 and 35 codes . :-\

My ECU thru the 34 and 35 code and I have a moderate amount of pinging ever since the code 35 was thrown. The 34 code has been there for about 1 month now and thwe 35 code just came on about 2 weeks ago.

Does anybody have a EGR and Purge valve selenoid for sale for a EA82 spfi auto tranny engine. I cant find any working ones from the junkyards in Salem Or. HGRRRRRRRRRR, Im tired of buying used junkyard parts only to find they dont work , especially at $5 a piece.

So is there any difference in the quick boot for a 2wd than a 4wd?

Whats does disassembly of the passenger side axle consist of so that I know what Im getting into. I did my axles on a 92 VW Jetta, they were pretty easy. :eh:

WHEN YOURS WENT OUT DID THE ENGINE START TO PING ?

I NEED A OUTER SPLIT BOOT FOR MY CV ON MY EA82 SPFI WAGON"92". ALL THE STORES IN SALEM DONT SELL THE SPLIT BOOT OR THEY DO AND ITS ONLY FOR A FRONT WHEEL DRIVE OR A VIN # STARTING IN #4, MY CAR VIN IS #5 GRRRRRRRR. WHERE CAN I FIND A BOOT PLEASE , THE BOOT JUST SPLIT AND IF I REPLACE THE BOOT NOW I WONT HAVE TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE AXLE AND REPLACE IT . WHY DIDNT SUBARU MAKE THE OUTERS SERVICABLE?

MY EA82 SPFI AUTO TRANNY 92 WAGON HAS THROWN #34 & #35 CODES . I ALSO NOTICED WHEN THE #35 CODE WAS THROWN THE CAR STARTED TO PING AN AWFUL LOT. I CALLED THE DEALER AN ITS LIKE $80- 100 FOR THE SELENOIDS ! DOES ANYBODY HAVE A LINE ON EM CHEAPER?:madder:

so the little black box that the vacumn line goes into from the egr valve is the selenoid ?

Where is the EGR selenoid on a 92 ea82 spfi wagon non turbo auto. I can find the EGR valve just not the selenoid.

so how do you drop the Y pipe , and by drop do you mean remove it from the car all together or just disassemble it from the exhasut temporarily? I dont think I will remove the tin for good after reading the replies but I am going to reinforce the seams so I can get rid of this darn rattle problem during accel.

Well I bought this car w/92k on it from a gypsy car lot for $700. It ran really rough and it had bad vavle clatter , but drove great and didnt die at stop lights.The check engine light was on when purchased. I did a complete tune up on it and checked and adjusted the timing during tune up , maybe a degree or 2. that was 2 months ago . labor day weekend , replaced t-belts . This was a B*&%h as the haynes manual left out the procedure for rotating the cam gears when going from one to the other.I had installed and uninstalled the t-belt 5 times before a member on this board informed me of what I needed to do , and wala golden! check engine light still on. Checked and minor adjustment of timing , degreee or tow , and no pinging. Now a 2 weeks later the pinging is quite moderate and the check engine light code is flashing the signal, still, for the EGR. Im sorry I cant remeber off the top of my head the actual numbers , but it was the EGR code. Any ideas? I am also using regular unleaded 87 octane and no fuel additive. oh yeah and before I did the t-belts I couldnt adjust the timing anymore as I was hitting the dist stops . After t-belt change the dist rotation is in between the stops giving me alot more room for adjustment. Thanx luv this board!

I have a EA82 spfi wagon 92 loyale and I am going to replace the o2 sensor . I have to remove the y and since this is a pain I figure I will just drop the entire exhaust and replace the gaskets 96k on em. My Q is can I remove the exhaust tin reinstall the exhaust and be safe ?

Im am going to pull the egr valve out and take a physical look at it . What should I look for toi find out if the egr is in need of repair or replacement? I know the Timing is dead on since I have checked and redone it 3-5 times now 20 degrees =-2 degrees. with test connectors connected. 92 ea82 spfi wagon

that may explain why the car smells hot but the temp gauge is reading normal?!

Alright about 2 weeks ago I replaced my timing belts . I checked and adjusted my timing via timing light after doing so and it ran great. I have a check engine light that says its the EGR needing attention. Well today my car started pinging really bad on acceleration and at a consant 55 mph. The idle is also alittle rough. Is this all caused by the EGR or is there a problem with my T-belts?

http://www.importautoparts.com http://www.importcarparts.com around 75-85 bucks w/ shipping.

Do I still need to pull the cv off the axle and tire to clean and repack or can I just do it from under the car ?

I was under the car doing some nut and bolt inspection ( after timing belt replace) and I noticed grease all over the inside of the wheel. Upon closer inspection I noticed a small 2 inch rip in the outer cv boot. Since I know it is new I think I should just replace the boot and not the entire cv . Is this possible without removing the entire Drive axle, and can you just buy a boot to replace the ripped one? :-\

Asavage, I just went through the same problem. Did the 20w50 w/ MMO Did the engine flush. Did the check valve spring, all in that order . Still friggin noisy lifter! I bit the bullet and pulled the oil pump. I had the same wear as your pump did. I replcaed the mickey mouse gasket , the shaft oil ring and the round O ring and..................... Walaaaaaaaaaa noisy lifter GONE! Did you replace the large O ring and the shaft seal on the oil pump ? Oh yaeh mines a EA82 92 loyale .

If your gonna replace the timing belts spend the $20 and buy the oil pump rebuild kit and fix your seals and gaskets on the pump. Woprked for my 92 and I even tried the 20w50 and mmo first. I even did the check valve spring . The oil pump rebuild is simple!

My 92 loyale has power belts.

After trying every thing , MMO 20W50, check valve spring, engine flush , I finally got in and rebuilt the oil pump. And damn it all it worked , YEEEEEEEEEHAWWWWWWWWWW! Quite as when it left the dealership 12 years ago! Thank you all for your help this message board is a god send, Im a USMB for life!

Thanx alot your help in this matter saved the rest of my labor day weekend! My haynes manual did not give me the directions to rotate the sprocket odd # of times before doing the other cam. Thanx again:headbang: Now I can have some labor day fun!

Ok I feel like a complete stressed out idoit! The Dist is good , I mis read the timong marks, Dumb me. So the camshaft sprocket is supose to be 1 up and 1 down when you open up the Tbelt for the 1st time. And then before you but it back to gether you rotate the sprockets so the marks lign up on bolth of them ?