Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

oregonloyale

Members
  • Posts

    167
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by oregonloyale

  1. The timing marks are on the bellhousing behind a little black rubber plug under your spare tire in the engine compsrtment.
  2. Alright , Im doing the t belt and i notice the lft(driver) cam sproket mark is 180 degrees from the top. The 3 marks are lined up in the bell housing but the mark is 180 Degrees, whats up with that? I also noticed that the t belt cover is burnt thru where it looks like the previous owners thru the T belt while xriving. The right side is good. So when I but the t belts in I rotate the sprocket to aloign the marks., out it all back together and it runs like absolute caca! I tear it down again and put the sprocket were it was before, 180degrees from the mark and put it all back together. Starts up good but drives like someones choking the car and pings like a bitch. I try to adjust the timing as it sit @ 18 BTC and I cant rotate it any more cause Im hitting the stops on the dist. I check to make sure the rotor @ 1 cylinder is a TDC and the pointer line up with the 0 on the flywheel and its nowhere near it. So I rotate the crank 360 and check to see if iyt libnes up , nope. I look in my haaynes manual and where the lines @ 0 degrees sits the rotor sits @ #1 ccylinder , if it where a OHV engine.My car is a OHC. So this is what I think and tell me how to fix it please..... I think some yahoo mech put the car together for the prevbiose owners like it was an OHV engine , hence the wrong #1 cylinder position. But how do I set TDC for my OHC so as to bpull the dist. and set it in correctly and then go back and rotatew the cam sprocket 180deg. so thats correct? HELP>>>>>>>>>>>>>:madder:
  3. Alright , its friday and Im gonna finally attack this valve clatter head on! I have my new T belts, MM ring , O ring and the ring for the oil pump shaft. Wish me luck , cause all the other fixes did nothing, I.E. flushing, 20w50 w MMO , check valve springs.:madder:
  4. My check engine light keeps coming on! I tried to pull the code and all it flashes is the manu date ( 7 quick flashes). The light doesnt come on when youy first start the car its only about after you hit 35mph or you have gone 1 - 2 miles. I have cleared it several times and it just comes back flashing the same code ...............grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.:madder:
  5. DO YOU MEAN DRILL A NEW HOLE IN THE LUG CHEVY RIM TO FIT THEX HOLE PATTERN?:cornfuzz:
  6. It sounds alot like CV joint in the driveline to me. I would crwl under neath and try turning the driveaxle , if there is any slack in the twist @ the CV joint more than not that CV is bad.There should be no p[lay in the joint when twisting it .
  7. I had planned on doing the oil pump seals and gaskets to rectify the clatter. Since the T belts have about 30k on em I was just gonna replace them. I had already replaced the check valve spring in the heads and the MMO treatment in 20W50castrol with no luck , so the oil pump is my last resort at relieving the chitty chitty bang bang clatter. hope it works???????????????
  8. All you have been a great help, Im starting to feel alittle more confident about doing this . The whole goal is to get rid of the that dang valve clatter!
  9. Damn , it sounds like I really have my work cut out fot me, Im starting to get alittle scared.:boohoo: I was told this should be an easy job , I have already bought all the seals , gaskets and T belts so........................ 3 day weekend , here we go! Thanx:(
  10. Do you have to remove the oil pan to do the oil pump? I thought it was up front ? I am going to remove the radiator and possibly do the water pump. You know , Im glad I asked this question here because the haynes manual didnt specify any special tools.
  11. Im going to replace the t. belt and oil pump seals and gaskets in my 92 EA82 wagon , I just want to know what tools I need on my check list before I get started?
  12. I removed the bottom of the heat shield from the y pipe but couldnt get the top off.I was wondering if you could remove the whole Y from the exhaust so as to do the work out from under the car. How do I unbolt the Y from the exhaust system ? I dont have a O2 wrench and I dont have a open end wrench to do it with . The biggest open wrench I have is a 20mm.
  13. I was under my EA82 (92 loyale wagon) getting ready to replace the O2 sensor. I noticed that there is a heat shield made of aluminum surrouning the Y there where the O2 sensor goes in. I thought I could just unbolt it and remove it from the Y so I could put in the sensor but there is no room to pull the top end off and I cant slide it up enough to wrench out the sensor . Anybody have any ideas or suggestions. I havent thrown any codes saying to replace the sensor but the car has 96K uncared for miles on it, and its idleing alittle rough.
  14. Where should EA82 timing be set ? Auto tranny SPFI 4wd wagon .
  15. Ok all you ea82 guys out there.... After all this tinkering with noisy valve train , I have finally narrowed it down to , and I hope , its the oil pump airation. I dgreased the entire undercarrtiage and drove it for a few days and noticed oil and wetnes at the base of the timing caovers, I suspect oil leakage from multiple gaskets and seals. So anyway, since the oil pumps are mechanical , how often do the pumps go bad. I mean my 70 VW Bug has mech pumps and they almost never go bad. The manual says to measure the depth of the cavity and the depth of the shaft for wear , but it seems like this kind of wear would be next to nil. I think Ill be ok just replacing the MM seal and gaskets and all the other seals under my timing belt as well as the belts and water pump. I am going to document this Via my Digi cam and I will submit it to the tech column .
  16. As most of you know I have been dealing with noisy friggin valves. I have changed the oil and added 20w50 oil and MMO . I have driven on I-5 @ 70mphs for 20minutes . I have chnaged the check valve spring in under the cam cover. AND NOTHING HAS WORKED!!!!!!!!! My oil pressure is goo and have no leaks. Before I changed the check valve spring the noise would come and go , now it just stays. I'm at my wits end , I think I have a lemon. Help Me , dont let me give up on this Sube! :boohoo:
×
×
  • Create New...