
who1981
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Everything posted by who1981
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Dude... That sucks... So, would you recommend that I put the '94 block in? It has a worn main bearing. Around an 1/8 inch of end-play, enough to make accessory belt noise when the clutch is pressed. So...If I go that rout I'd have to split the block and change the bearing (or just throw that lump in and let it live till it dies)...Arg! More work. How hard is a bearing job on an EJ22??? And how much does it cost? I assume it involves head removal, and gaskets? (so I should go order some soon, as I already go the last 2 in town) One thing is for sure, I'm getting really fast at pulling pancakes. Thanks again for all the advice guys.
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Yeah, I know... I should have just put the '94 heads (that I know to be good) on there instead of resurfacing and using the the heads I took off...I was just too optimistic, because this engine ran so darn well (other than the bubbles). I'll do a leak down...I think my brother has one. If I'm only having trouble on one side, I'll probably try changing the head (gasket) with the engine in the car. ... depending on the side.
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I can smell hydrocarbons coming out of the radiator... Also, I don't know why, but after I let it run, blowing bubbles for a few minutes, I took the rad cap off and the 50/50 mix in the neck of the rad looked clear as pure water (and was COLD). Freaky! As for the head bolts, I cleaned them and the holes were pretty clean, they threaded well, and torqued fine... (that torque procedure is funky) Are the blots/holes really sensitive to contamination? Why did you mention this? I didn't notice anything but a silky smooth bore... I've never heard of EJ22 blocks cracking (without a really good reason). ¿?
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My 90 Legacy started blowing bubbles out the overflow tank , in a very "blown head gasket" type of manor. Of course this also forced coolant out making it try to overheat. So I pulled the engine, and upon inspecting the passenger side gasket I found a very blown looking spot. So. I got some good quality gaskets, and got the heads resurfaced at a very reliable machine shop. Put it all back together...still blows bubbles, in exactly the same way! So, It has to be one of the heads right??? They didn't look cracked or bad in any way... I think what I'll do is get yet another set of gaskets (I can't reuse these, only run once?) and put the, good-last-time I checked, heads from of my 94 engine (with main bearing going bad) on this 90... What do you think? Is there anything else that could cause this??? :-\ Thanks, Ciao, Stephen Ps, are 94 fuel injectors better than 90s? If so I'll swap those out too.
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My guess: the lower control arms are bent/kinked, so they are not as long... pulling the bottom of the wheel in... That is the only thing I can think of that could possibly be "bent back"....but I don't think I'd recommend it. Go to a U-Pull-It yard and get replacements (if they are in fact the culprit) Hope you get it figured out. Ciao.
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On 90s stock Subies sway-bars are quite helpful. I put a stock sway-bar (the lager of the two, 18mm I think) on the rear of my 94 Leg wagon...It made a HUGE difference in turn-in and response, also I was no longer under-steering, in fact I could get just a touch of over-steer. Even moving up a stock size can help turn-in, and eliminate factory under-steer...My friend had the spindly (15mm or less?) rear bar on his 97 Impreza, We went to U-Pull-It and got him a fatter one off of an early 90s Legacy...it made a large enough difference that even his wife asked what we did to the car to make it feel sportier. :cool: My 2¢ Ciao.
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The thing about the vortec is the torque, fair bit higher than an ea27. They are a good motor, pretty reliable, good'ish milage, but heavy too.
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Firstly, this clutch, for a 95-01 Impreza 2.2L, is compatible with any push type EJ22 engine and tranny right??? so it would work in my new ($180!) 90 Legacy.../? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7954759484 Second, what do ya'll think??? It has 5 spring dampers insted of 4, like the Exedy (my other choice). Also thinking about a lightened flywheel...Probably the ~14LB Exedy.
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contemplating subaru engine drop into samurai
who1981 replied to dptyrob's topic in Subaru Transplants
A little while back, I bought a Samurai that someone converted to an Isuzu diesel... I have learned that anything is possible in a Samurai, whether it’s driving up narrow tree-lined mud covered motorcycle trails or swapping out ANY part of the drive train for anything else ...these lil’ suckers are versatile! BTW, I have a ea82T that needs a wee bit o' rebuilding...out of an XT.. the turbo makes goodly amounts o’ torque, and would be nice enough in a sami. Also today, coincidentally, I’m thinking of putting the engine out of my freshly wrecked Legacy (RIP:rolleyes:) , into the $250 XT that the aforementioned engine came from. And keeping the locking center dif ea82 5spd. Perhaps at some point we may be of assistance to each other...If you want to have a look a my Samurai or ea82t, just let me know. -
Hehe, Yes, you need that big Vacuum tube. I changed the plugs in a friends car and somehow dislodged it...when we started her up it ran VREY badly and when we pressed the accelerator, it sputtered died and a puff of smoke came out around the sides of the hood.!!! ;0) (this may be a good, harmless, prank to pull on your subie-owner friends.) As for the intake, Return it on principal! The same friend bought the intake you have (off ebay) and they had it listed working with his model and year... Well it was missing the nipple. (maybe ok on 2.5 RS?) So he returned it. What then: Go to a U-Pull-It type junk yard with early to mid 90's Legacys/Imprezas. (I assume you have a big air-box on top of your engine) Get the simple intake tube without the box... and some extra vacuum tubes.. and stuff.. should be about $10 Then buy, just, the 3" blot on adaptor that makes it so you can hook a conical filter to your MASS air flow sensor... Get a good quality conical filter w/3" connection...Look for one where the back (that has the rubber connection in it) is NOT aluminum, but rather one rubber/plastic... I've had an aluminum-backed filter un-glue and fall in two pieces, twice. This setup isn't shiny aluminum, but works at least as well. Have fun, (and complment your intake with exhast! A Borla Header a LOT of power to my 94 Legacy)
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Hmm I never had much luck handbreak-turning my Leg AWD... (and it's kinda hard on stuff)... More fun power sliding! and spinning in snowy parking lots. But to tighten the HB, undo about 5 screws that are holding the center consol (around the HB lever) and take it up. you should see some cables under there, and an adjustment... adjust it. and there you have it. easy... have fun, don't die.
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Impreza CAI
who1981 replied to Setright's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Sam over at Powerlabs has a similar intake, on his cool 2.5RS have a look at: http://www.powerlabs.org/car.htm -
Ya... thats what I'm hearing... But I don't know wether it was the old NGKs I had being old or what... But when I put in these Bosch double / . \ platinum, I instantly had a noticeable power increase and way smoother idle. and they were $15 for the set at Wal-Mart. Could just be the plugs being new, but I'm happy.
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Hmm, I do agree the auto's tend to be geared a bit taller. But with my neerly stock 94 Leg Wag 5spd, coming up from CA (with a load, and friends) I hit about 117Mph one time (on the flat)...it's getting out of the powerband in 5th at that speed, but any sort of a downhill and I'm up to 130 in no time........And YES, Very Smooth....well untill I have to slow down (these warped roters are cramping my style!) So...I need some Brembos, and a 6-speed... (and a turbo wouldn't hurt)
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Just ordered 2 of those valves (1 for me one as christmas gift ) I used discount code YM4 and got 10% off at http://www.fumotovalve.com I have Mobile1 Synth in now, so it will be a while before I get to try the valve out. :cool: BTW. I made the Synth switch at 140K miles and haven't noticed any leaks... I go through about 1qt per 3K and change at about 9k miles (I also get a Good filter, to hold up to the extended interval) PS, I just changed my oil and a friend's... my friend has the same engine and driving habits, but dino oil. and after 4K his oil looked WAY worse than mine after 11K.
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hmm in my 94-Leg-Wag at speeds between 85 and 115 (90 Avg) on my way back to OR from So-Cal (on I5, at night) I was getting 24Mpg. I have a cone filter, Dbl-Plat Bosch plugs (Which did help my rough idle, and gave noticable HP) and an Ebay glasspack... I may have goten 1 Mpg better at 70mph... but where is the fun in that.
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Wow, you identified a problem, and not only thought of a solution but also fabricated, implemented, and tested it!!! And we in America have a long tradition of being fascinated with this (it’s the American dream)…And then stealing the idea, patenting it, and marketing it for profit…In the quest of riches! (also the American dream) Anyway you are on to something...I'll have to try it.
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My exhaust is mounted correctly, at all points, including the trany mount. The first time it cracked was partly my fault...for under estimating the size of a small tree I 4byed over , scraping the cat pipe a lil-bit. Though that only sent it over the edge, it was obvious that the header was week around where the two passenger side port-tubes come together... Also, do upgraded (polyurethane) exhaust hangers make much difference? For the better?
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I just ordered the Borla header, after hearing a sound clip of it with a good cat-back system...hope it prefoms af nice as it sounds Now I just have to get the exhaust shop to fab me up a pipe. The rest of my exaust is in fine shape, including my awesome ebay mufler and 2nd stock cat...I wonder if they can, legally, make a cat-less through pipe to hook to my existing system? Think that'd work, just having the aft oem cat? I guess there would need to be an O2 sensor fitting in the "through pipe"...