mykingcrab

Dude, your scaring me, remember we need to don this this spring. heres what we start with. http://www.jegs.com/instructions/555/rollcage.pdf

GD, suberdave, CobCob and others. thanks once again. you guys nailed the problem again. CobCob dude thanx a million, was the distributer timing ok? :banana: you can drive her all week, NO jumping,

Do you have a time machine. somewere? man, have you ever seen the andy grifith episode were goober has the car inside of the courthouse while andy returns from vacation??????? I would get azzz and take down a wall to put that thing somewer in the house. ok well atleast the garage (temp controlled) on carpet.:slobber::slobber:

I just completed some work on "ROXY" There is alot of blahblah, with a slideshow link for dessert. First on my list was to cut apart my "NOT SJR" strut towers,that I purchased used for $20.00 from DRKRAZY,they came to him as part or another companys lift kit that he put on his "PROJECT CHEAP." The camber was 3.2deg(+) on the left,and 2.8deg(+) on the right.(no jig)?hmmmmmm. anyway,I also cut some 2x2 angle(Thnx COBCOB),to begin to build blocks into a subframe. this piece in the pics made a 100% differance in rigidity. it was getting sloppy and squeeky.I plan on going 1.5" tube from bumper to bumper pretty soon/6-8 mo. next was to replace the rear RX saggy/uneven springs with wagon springs. the strange thing is,that there was no visual differance,both on damage or height,or diameter. l didnt mic it but they looked identical. Once on the car.........wow,night/day difference. obviously different Next,I replaced the struts in march when i lifted, but chose to replace those $20.00 e/bay new. but probably (20years in a warehouse)gabriels. caacaaahh. went with monroes,even though l wanted kyb's, but they work!!!! Bottom line??????????? it runs great,and drives ***************ennnnnnnnn:grin: Then COBCOB correctly installed all new timing set belts idler sprocket,both tensioners. she's happy. next is 8 point cage,$159.99 + shipping (the first step in bumper to bumper tube frame) That and some rivited aluminum pannels is the ultimate rust repair. Frame around it, cut out the rust, here are the pics, let it lap 2x's to insure that they all load on the slide show. thnx.:cool: http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg314/MYKINGCRAB/?action=view&current=0e9937bf.pbw

I usually do not gamble. However,I will bet, that you (like I an now doing)will be happy with anything his name is on,after you install,and love your Sube even more:slobber: and be glad to tell others that his stuff is great. Im especially pleased with the ea82 rear. it just works with no axle problems. Easy to install,And looks great under there. you should go for it,Im sure youll be happy. IM MYKINGCRAB AND I APPROVE OF THIS MESSAGE

Not sure,but aleast you deserve a bump to the top. There are some old threads, if you keep searching for high compression ea82t,or similar phrases, you should find some info. and really keep digging, there are some people that have done this and raced them. ive seen several vw, blow thru set ups running 5-7 9:1 psi ,with no problems.

I hav'nt talked to you guys in a while, and was in the process of threading some other mods(stay tuned) and this popped up. good leads. I left speculation out of the thread, I was hoping you guys would be thinking the same as me and COBCOB. I am courious????????? could there be an ignition timing issue????? or cam timing issue???????????

Just got new timing set (complete kit) replaced. She has ran strong ,with all vital signs in excellent range until the timing components were replaced. Today,it was taking the mechanics family (not me)to church, and thanks to an observent driver (again not me),it was shut down and came home on a flatbed towtruck, in an effort to avoid any possable damage. According to the mech,he never let it get hot:) WHAT THE H__L? (1 ran ok at an idle. (2)dragged its butt up even a slight hill. (3) will not pull under a load. (4) TEMPATURE runs HOT. Also might consider that the old timing belt(s) tension was slopppppy. and the CTS+O2 SENSORS ARE BOTH NEW. This was a night and day issue.:confused::confused: HELP PLEASE !!!!!!!!!!!!!

lm thinking this is definately the correct trans. And the price? unbelievable,,,,,,,,,,, free shipping to a bus.address. "maybe" able to arrange something.if your not able. Used Subaru Legacy / Forester EJ25DE 2.5 1995 - 1998 Automatic AWD Transmission you will get a complete transmission as shown in the picture! Price:$425 :grin::grin::grin::grin::grin:

Ok,check this out, they say free shiping 48 states if delevered to a business adress. $425.00 for this one. Im not sure if its the correct one.. can anyone else confirm?????????? http://www.jdmenginescorp.com/transmissions_details/subaru_used-subaru-legacy---forester-ej25de-1995---1998-automatic-awd-transmission

MAN,$400.00 clams? what a deal head gaskets or not. Glad you got it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ill look for it on 82 when we start hauling apples soon. :cool:

Read his personal info. he lives in Honduras. Dont know his name, but he is smart,nice,and will be glad to help.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/member.php?find=lastposter&t=91844

you are definatly capable of both. that would be SWEET combined project "X"

My solution............ http://www.amazon.com/Weber-32-36-DGEV-SUBARU/dp/B000JLL04A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1219349182&sr=8-3

BEER GOOD !!!!!!!!!

No Problema, welcome to the club, Any pics of you project???? P.S. If you get ready soon,or whenever, we can go over each step,and the tools needed for the process in detail. and some safty measures to get you prepaired:cool: . PICS PICS PICS?????????????????????????????

Here are some picks from my lift day(S). I forgot to mentin to do the rear first,then the front. its easier that way IMO. :popcorn: [/url]

This is just some basic info to get you familliar with the overall picture. if you can,Print the digram that I drew,and (SAFELY) look under your car and I.D. the main components,were the cross members meet the body. this is were your lift blocks will go. Think of it like the cars body is one crust of a OREO cookie,and the crossmembers are the other crust, and the lift is the cream filling. Spread the crusts apart, and squize in the filling!!!!!!!!!!tis should help you get familiar with things.:cool: On my lift, the struts are 4" towers,3" engine crossmember,2" on the trans crossmember. upper radiator hose 3 inches longer,anti pitch rod(that wierd bracket from the firewall to the engine), and the steering shaft extention. Thats basically it othe than a few minor mods/tweeks/pounding/trimming. On the rear, 4" shock bracket,3" diff drop(on the mustache bar),2"on the diff"s front mount. You should be able to see each part on the ddiagram below. Its crude,and maynot match each discription perfectly,but should help the mistery.

YOU CAN DO IT!!!!!. There are a ton of people on here that have done it. The kit is made for your car(.p.s. you picked the best),the biggest challenge for me was the steering shaft. the rest is basic stuff. here is a start for details, ill get some pictures up in a little bit. and im sure others can post some helpfull stuff. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85496

Sorry to hear your tough story,and the timing of it. , Im sure im not alone to say, thank the powers that be for GOOD PEOPLE.:cool: crab out. I do dig the blue legacy.

Nice going on the rock auto:clap: . on the rack, all you need is 8 longer screws, @$2.50. the mounts slide for easy adjustment. l think its guarenteed fit.

Love the two snugglin.:cool: :cool: in the pic. My eyeball estimate is the mounts should fit cross bars that dont exceed 4 inches wide and 3 inches tall. under that,it should'nt need any mods.:cool: The company that makes it is called "RAGE".