
exercion
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Everything posted by exercion
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Nice tip on using a towball on the race, I'll certainly give it a try, thanks. I'm trying to separate the stub that goes through the hub and wheel from the old axle. This is now out of the car. Eric
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Thanks for the replies folks. Just to update: I had a catastrophic bearing failure before I could install a new axle. I was able to get the old axle off the diff very easily, and using the BFH and wooden block method I got the stub shaft driven back out through the hub. Still have to cut the remains of the bearings off. I am a bit stuck, pardon the pun, on now removing the stub shaft from the axle since after 30 years together they seem well accustomed to staying that way. Any ideas? I have thought about cutting the axle where it bells out but I don't know if that would give me the access I want to then press the stub out? Eric
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Hi guys, My trusty 88 GL 4wd wagon finally needs a rear axle (302,000 miles). I have done fronts, but not rears. Is there anything special I should know, or differences between doing rears from fronts? Thanks, Eric
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Thanks, and yes I saw the offset. I am not sure what the differences other than that would be. I'm not concerned at all regarding the cat converter, just looking for something I can make work.
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Does anyone know if this will fit my 4wd wagon? https://www.amazon.com/Walker-Exhaust-46681-Resonator-Assembly/dp/B0015KVCI8/ref=pd_ybh_a_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=91WKZ0AMWQWY9FM6F5EB Walker 46681 Resonator Assembly Thanks in advance, Eric
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So I have an 88 GL wagon with 5spd and Hi/low. I have a chance to buy a 1991 or so Loyale 4wd auto car, which I want as a supply of donor parts. Would the hubs be the same? I'm pretty sure axles aren't, but that's ok. Has enough body and other parts on it that I'm thinking it's a buy. Just didn't know about hubs (yeah I changed one on mine and am suspicious I'll need another, not sure. Eric
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I have an 88 wagon, and thought I had a bad bearing, but as it turns out it was only the cone washer. So anyway, as I was putting the axle back in (yeah I had disassembled it all) I found that I could not get the roll pin all the way in. I stopped tapping with the hammer when I had clear resistance, didn't want it completely fubar'd, but am not sure what happened to get to this point. Though it does make me wonder if it's a crucial piece, given that I had to disconnect the lower arm and loosen the strut bolts to get the space to pop the axle out in the first place. Eric
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I'm third owner of an 88 GL wagon, and the guy I bought it from 13 years ago had told me the AC didn't work when they got it. Well, I finally said to hell with it and fixed it. Had to replace the idler and drive belt, because they had been removed over the years then put in relays and voila! I did add a can of coolant once I saw the system ran. $30 bucks worth of parts from the salvage yard and I am finally COOL! Eric
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Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I guess I'll stick with what I have. It's interesting hearing about the newer cars, but since I will not own an auto transmission again, it sounds like for what I need to do, my elderly 88 wagon is it. Eric
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Not sure if this is the right forum to ask, but I am wondering about how the newer Outbacks do offroad? I have an elderly GL wagon which has the high/low range and a 5 speed, and it does very well crawling around the backcountry. I'd love to get a newer car, but am curious how the AWD models compare to the 4wds, also do they "crawl" well? Here in NV the trails can be tight and rocky, as well as steep, so being able to control one's speed through gearing helps. I know they have more power (what doesn't LOL) but is it available down in the lower RPMs? Eric
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Just curious if anyone knows if any of the low mileage takeout engines from Japan I heard about years ago still exist? I have an 88 with the 1.8L non turbo FI engine that needs a clutch. So I starterted to think that perhaps a new engine would be a good idea as well, while it's down for maintenance so to speak. So a takeout or even a rebuild if there are any good rebuilders out there. Eric
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I have an 88 Loyale, high/low range 5spd. She's my trusty daily driver, and also travels dirt roads, trails, and some moderately rugged offroading in the Sierra Nevada. I love the light weight, nimble feel and small turn radius of it, but am thinking that more HP in a newer car (I'm at 230k now) may be nice. It didn't help matters that I rented a Forester on vacation this year either. So, my question is, which of the newer ones would be the best replacement? Ground clearance is a major plus, as would be turn radius. Also, how do these perform on twisty, rocky trails? I am very used to having low range available and currently spend much time crawling along in low/1st. I have been reading about lifting the Imprezas with the forester parts, and am wondering how that compares with an Outback stock? So anyway, what's your pick for overall on/off road use? Eric
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Piston to valve clearance
exercion replied to exercion's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Thanks for the help everyone. As to the oft asked question of why I'm not doing them myself, it's simple: I don't want to. I know how to, have many years of experience wrenching on all sorts of vehicles (including my own Subaru) and have finally gotten the luxury of being able to pay for a job I don't want to do. Eric -
I am a current Subaru owner (1988 GL) and have been given the opportunity to get a free but dead 1989 model. What I know about the car: 1. a mechanic I know and trust thinks it's either the timing belts or fuel injection. 2. The car was moving up the road at the time of it's demise and shut down with no warning. I suspect the timing belts as well, and I do know how to check to see if it's the prob. What I can't remember is if this engine is a zero interference type when the belts break, or if it's likely that a piston did come up and whack the valves. I won't be doing the belts myself, so I have no interest in the car if it seems likely that there's major internal damage. Eric