djellum

Is there any operational benefits to the 2.2 intake? Or just more common? Only 2 things ive heard mentioned are a knock sensor and egr deletion and im unsure what that might yield

ok thanks all. just for reference I guess, swapping into a carbed dual range ea82 manual car. im down with the 2.2, I just found this one years ago for dirt cheap next door. it looks in great shape and was already pulled and palleted. It was supposed to have the wiring complete but he couldnt find the ecm. tbh if I can find an ecm at a decent price ill just put it in and if it dies later i can do a 2.2 easy cause the swap is done, if I cant ill just refresh the ea82 until I can get a 2.2 complete

most important thing is to make sure the heater core is in good shape. changing a core in these is a huge job or expensive if you cant do it yourself. some people have said theres tricks but essentially the whole dash has to come off. the oil pumps are discontinued, if it goes out then your engine is a boat anchor. if you happen to find one, even used then grab it up. parts stores will try and sell you an ea81 pump (and just about every other part) and tell you it fits but it wont. also for your needs defrost is a must, and the controls are vacuum controlled. leaking system or too much pedal will drop your defrost. I wouldnt be surprised if you have to rig up something in heavy uphill, but at least make sure the system is good. timing belts are pretty much a must, if you have the ability then you should probably do head gaskets too. its a pretty easy job, look up post apocalyptical head surfacing on this site. an interesting read. axles are always a pain on these, save all the washers and parts when swapping them, the cone washers are getting harder to come by do some searching here, theres upgrades for struts and springs using other rig parts. honda front springs and forerunner struts in the back I believe. theres a ton of things that could be bad of course, the center bearing on the driveline, every bushing in the thing. cant really find control arm bushings anymore. tbh, an ej car is a much better choice for what you want, but I like these myself.

is it really upgrading though? I dont really want a ton of power, just non discontinued parts and the best gas mileage i can get. I can get a control unit and have the complete setup, if it came to using another one I would just get the 2.2 complete. is the 2.2 that much better?

Awesome, thanks a bunch

im a bit nit picky on getting the teeth exactly right. couple tricks I do. tap a pin into the lineup hole on the cam sprocket, it helps you see if the notches are lined up from above. Dont forget to remove it. once you get the marks lined up to the cover turn the cam sprocket just a bit back when putting the belt on. if you dont you will likely see the marks move ahead to far once you release the tensioner. backing it up just a bit helps keep the lower half tight under tension without dragging the sprocket too far out of alignment. also helps the belt slide on smooth. these cars are pretty forgiving on the timing, but I like to make sure the marks are exactly in the right spot once the tensioners are set.

seems strange but check the bearings. I had a rear that seemed fine till I noticed the tire was crooked one day looking at it from the back. bearing was toasted but it wasn't noisy, the drum was keeping it together and slowly milling itself down. might cause binding or rubbing when weight and force are applied but not when its up in the air. also check radius rods and control arm for bad bushings or loose bolts. It might be fine in the air but once you put weight on the car things could tweek out of alignment

if you find it message me and ill throw some cash at you. if I have to i will get a whole system, but seems a waste when I only have to get a control unit.

Hello, getting prepped for a swap. I have an EJ18 complete with harness but no ECM. Was bought on a pallet so I don't know what vehicle it was out of. Are their any differences in the ECM from year to year or will any EJ18 one work. if there is a difference are their any markings on the engine itself that would tell me what generation of 18 it is?

couple ideas, if you still have the spifi distributor in it, they do the initial timing differently. spifi I believe you set the dist at 20 deg and the computer backs it off or raises it as it sees fit, but carbed does the standard 6-8 deg and goes up from there. I dont know the spifi distributors well enough to know if they can work on ported vacuum from the carb or if you need a different one but I would definitely check it out. some people run 20 deg even in carbed motors so you may not have noticed but I find it runs much better set to the lower setting (though mines bumped to 11 for the weber). spifi fuel pumps are way too high pressure for carbs in a lot of cases, check your fuel pressure. idk about the carb you have but the weber wont like 20psi incoming. can get a regulator to bump it down to spec. Spifi is better than the weber for performance, though some people just like them or started with a carb car to begin with. if you already have wiring and pump for the spifi then I would do that. auto trans should function fine but 80's autos sucked in small low hp cars. not going to be as peppy as a manual, but probably not your biggest problem out of the gate. Webers dont give a ton of power boost, they just allow a simpler setup and allow you to change where the power to a lower end curve. much the same as the delta cams, its more about moving the power around the rpm range. most weber swaps are from tired stock carbs, but if you compared both new it would be a small increase. most people overfuel with the webers imo. best option - replace the spifi stuff second best - replace the dist with a carb one, or reset it to make sure its timed for the carb and running properly. weber after this if you want a carb car.

should only need 2 hoses for the carb, vacuum and fuel. im more up on ea82 stuff but hopefully im correct with what I remember. stock carb has 3 fuel lines. 1 fuel line to feed the carb, one return line, and a gas tank vent. most webers are run dead ended, which means just a fuel inlet line and you leave the others unplugged. you can buy another nipple for the weber or an inline fuel filter with an outlet to run the return line if you wish (lets the fuel circulate and the carb takes what it wants). the tank vent must be open though you can put a filter or other type of guard on it if your worried about stuff getting in (very rare). small vacuum line nipple should run to the distributor. many other cars run manifold vacuum for the distributor but if you do that on a subaru it will run the timing way up, so make sure your distributor is hooked to the carb. make sure your pvc system is hooked up correctly. there are posts here with diagrams and such, but when you remove the old airbox you can mess up the flow. clean air in (weber air cleaner to passenger side valve cover) hose out to pcv valve (drivers side valve cover to just below carb in rear). some experience oil burning in turns and such, just search it out if you do. you can install a catch can, or vent the tube a bit (hole in the straw effect). electric connection is the electric choke. should be there somewhere. if not you can run a new wire, just google weber electric choke instal and you should find something on the first page. there are 2 large diameter hoses coming from plastic boxes behind each head (assuming everything is stock). make sure they are plugged or you will get loud pops from the exhaust (called afterfires) from air getting in with unmixed fuel. you can remove the whole system at this point, theres some write ups here. should get you started anyway

Im no expert either but i think its just replacing oxygen that would be in the chamber. Similar to the way running rich cools the chamber its just taking some of the volitile oxygen out and replacing it with neutral gas that has been burned already. Also since the times it does it are light throttle cruise when timing is high, it might help curb predetonation, but thats a guess on my part.

Thats not what the egr does, it replaces part of the fuel charge with exhaust gas under certain engine loads, mainly light throttle cruise when you dont need big booms to move the car. The point as i see it isnt that your running without some system components, its that your pulling out things that do a job for everyone without stated cause and for no gain. All your work has gained you, if im generous, 2 hp. Reality is that a 30 year old cat probably isnt doing that much anymore, but people remove them or mangle them as a "mod" for no benefit. Your exhaust with a cat flows plenty for those crappy ea82 heads. If your cat was plugged, then rock on, most of us wouldnt replace it, but to just tear it out for a .7% increase in power and then brag about it doesnt give you any cred. Free oil still consumes oil. Again the same principle, what are the goals your trying to achieve. Routing to the airbox is ok, hopefully theres at least a bit of gases being sucked out, but a catch can should be a 1 hour project under $10 that actually fixes problems without increasing and consumption or pollutants. You may have a unique way of disposal ecologically, but you motor will be happier as well and last longer. Water doesnt only come in liquid form, fog, condensation, etc can get in through cracks and holes. Not really complaining, thats just a your car thing. This post has numerous people bragging or stating certain things as modifications that are more closely related to senseless damage. Again, if your cats plugged, gut it. Leaky egr and cant find a good one, block it. Just dont expect too many props from individuals who know these systems when you say they arent usefull. At the end of the day im happy your happy with your car, just do me a favor and have a reason other than a sense of (possibly false?) Acomplishment.

little compromise. put a catch can in in for collecting the oil goo. you can make one out of a pickle jar or a nicer once since you can weld. benefits everyone, your motor will be happier without the gases in the case, nothing is dumped on the ground, no smoke on turns. just cause you can doesnt mean you should. theres no cost in performance or maintenance to collect your toxins in the catch can, so why not make things a little cleaner on the water system.

easiest would be to swap in EA82 style 4wd system. loyales, GL's with the same front clip as yours, and many others should fit (idk about driveline). I think theres a dual range install thread or 5 in the modification forum that can give you some info on that. there are full time and part time options in those years. the motor in yours has a short shelf life. they are discontinuing essential parts. Motor swap would be the way to go. search ej swap and bring a lunch. if you want the stock motor find a new or a couple used but good oil pumps to keep around. they dont fail regularly but you cant get them easily anymore so when they do its dead. generally its easier to just drive the EJ car but there are ways to swap in the full impreza running gear. sentimental value might make that appealing. check the mod forum. ej swap, 5 lug swap, etc.

Use a crappy 1/4 drive extension to install the roll pin. To start it place the pin in the wrench end so it will hold it in place while you get it started and wont let it expand or slip and fall. Once you have driven ir in as far as the extension allows flip it over and use the socket end to finish it. Finish it with a real punch if its not seated deep enough into the axle but it only needs another couple mm's at most. Ruins the extension for its origional purpose but makes a great pin tool. No chance for going too far or for expanding the pin

basic stuff, weber carb and maybe some exhaust work. not much actual gain in HP but its in much more usefull places. low horsepower to start means low horsepower at end in general. as stated EJ swap is the only real chance for power.

more or less pressure on a faulty bearing in a tensioner or something maybe? get a long dowel or screwdriver and use it to listen to each spinning item in the timing. just put the pointy end on the bolt holding it and put your ear to the other end. if all the bearings are good maybe retime it just to make sure its good.

id certainly check into the fuseable link, they are only a couple of dollars. also on most of these there is a fuel cutoff valve that keeps the car from pumping fuel in a roll over accident. id check there first to make sure its not faulty and cutting power to the pump.

is that hill holder hooked up right? it should have the lines from the master cylinder going into it (maybe just one though my later model has both), then from there 2 lines out to a distribution block that changes the pressures front to back. that block should have 2 lines out for rear and 2 lines out for front. not 100% on what an 82 actually has, but the hill holder needs to intercept at least one line so it can lock it, and there should be a metal gizmo of some kind in the motor compartment that the final 4 lines leave from (the disc and drum brakes need different pressures) im wondering what that line that goes from the hill holder to the outer side of the master cylinder is doing? looks much cleaner that anything else around it.

did you bleed the master cylindar, that should be what those nipples are for. as stated above make sure the hill holder isnt engaged, most people unhook the cable and just turn the lever by hand and it should stay open. cant imagine it would do anything for your problem unless the holder is leaking but just in case. the reason for bleeding is that air compresses and fluid doesnt, so if you have enough air in the system it will compress a lot. it will still dribble out cause the pressure increases but its nowhere near enough give you any pedal. Ive gone 3 or 4 pressure bleeds with an assistant before getting any pedal at all. and Ive bled solid powerfull streams of fluid multiple times only to get another section of air. can also check for leaks at the wheel cylindar in the rear drums. can leak there and the drums contain it. if you really cant get someone to help you pump them then either hook up a vacuum pump and bottle setup (just a cheap harbor fright one is fine and inexpensive), or get a long pipe and depress the pedal and wedge the pipe against the seat to hold it, then go open up the bleen nipple, rinse repeat. its hard to say witout seeing it, how much fluid has it taken total through the process?

also check the vacuum, massive leak from the manifold on that side maybe. id still predict timing is a likely culprit but ive never done the 81's so i dont know how the gear system works. its easy to mix up ea82 and ea81 info if someones not paying attention so double check all the settings are for the 81 (and that you have an ea81).

I dont know about the 4 speed but there is supposedly a spring on the 5 speed to keep it central. mine broke a while ago and I havent fixed it yet to see the specifics. might be worth a look or someone who knows for sure can chime in.

did the brakes pump up and hold until you opened the bleeder or was it 3 to the floor and no pressure? have you checked that the brake pedal is actually attached to the master? did they work before this?

how are you bleeding, having someone work the pedal, gravity, vacuum pump? did you replace the front brakes? if so how did you open up the caliper to reset it for new pads? ive had them take a bit of doing, you think theres no more air but then you find a big bubble.