djellum

check with Shawnw on this site. He has a shop in Colorado and ships axles and such. he may have a few around or be able to get some in.

subaru dealer, whichever is nearest. you could pull some from a junk yard if then look good, but technically you should be replacing them with new ones when you do axles. the cone is called the "Center Piece Axle" if you call a subaru dealer. once they find it on the diagram they can see the part number for the spring washer as well.

I would definitely not heat the metal. bad idea on suspension in general because of the heat treatment, but heating that spring material would likely ruin it completely. id make a poor mans press. a bottle jack with some sort of rigid platform bolted to something. anything that would allow the shaft to fit through but not the swing arm end. generally seen them made out of scrap metal, but for one time use you could probably just do 2x4's.

from what I have heard your talking about using forester struts to lift a legacy (don't know if its exactly a legacy, but its a new gen lift for an inch or so). For the 2" loyale its generally just blocks. check the 4x4 section.

Wheel weight makes more of a difference than tire size (though bigger tires weigh more as well of course). Being so close to the leverage point makes the weight matter a lot more than you would expect.

its not a tire out of balance, I've run those tires before and they are smooth running. theres no wheel wobble or vibration in the steering, its just felt in the pedals and on the foot rest next to the clutch. starts around 25 at a fairly rapid pace and becomes a drone around 40. so far I've made sure my blocks aren't contacting the side of the shock tower, and the cv's aren't rubbing on anything. I'm getting a CV feeling from it myself, just checking if anyone has had issues with other parts that I'm not thinking of.

Hey, so I got my 2 inch lift in. love the height, love the way it feels, camber is good, drives straight, but theres a vibration between 25 and 60 ish. doesn't go away above 60 but evens out quite a bit. its a pretty minor one but enough to create a moan and a slight feeling in the pedal. I've checked all my blocks, everything is tight and not rubbing anywhere. my next thought is that I stretched a CV into a worn or unworn area, but I'm just checking all the easy stuff first. is there anything else that most people adjust or check after a strut push lift that I am missing? pretty soon ill be doing ball joints and some other front end freshening, but I would like to isolate the vibration first. anyways just thought I would throw up a preemptive post to see what others do to finalize the lift.

i had my axle nut back off on the front right going down sylvan hill at 60. took about half a mile to get across the 3 lanes to the shoulder. the axle was free spinning since it had popped out of the hub, but my wheel didn't come off, no idea why. after towing it home I found the axle nut and washers in the hubcap. i have another one now, but its hard to sell a car that basically saved my life for no understandable reason.

Hey, built a lift today and installed most of it. the whole process was a major pain of course but nothing unexpected happened until I got to the rears. I can't get the lower assembly to fall enough to get the dang thing in there. its not even close even with my full weight on the drum, or prying with levers. its 4 am so I finally gave it up, hoping its something simple that will stand out to me after sleep and food, but does anyone have a trick or method that they use? Do I need to loosen anything else like the rear gearbox or something that i am forgetting to do? Am i just powder puffin it?

nothings more likely to fail than when you have just F'd with it. if its running good, do the diaphragm and save the kit for later.

hose setup sounds fine, but make sure that the hose on the passenger side isn't plugged, thats the air inlet so its important that its not restricted. all the oil runs to the left side when cornering, and the car will drink it if the suction on the line is too high. the small hose allows fresh air in and out so that the suction isn't too strong and theres a vent for pressure on that side. if you put your finger over the small hose end and increase the throttle you should feel it become a suction. best guess is a non subaru pcv valve. the generic ones from parts stores will thread in but create too much suction. get a subaru direct pcv valve. its about $7.

best guess is that its a warped rotor (they are not worn terrible, but that one makes a small scrap sound when moved by hand. doesn't shimmy or anything when braking. Ive had plenty of crap cars that had noticeably warped rotors but they never made noise before. it has the same rims, same rotors, calipers, etc. the only thing different between the day before and after was the pads ill pick up a new rotor for it and see if that takes care of it

Hey, replaced my brake pads in the front today, and now there is a pronounced knocking noise from the front right when under light braking. everything works fine, stops well both lightly and hard, just makes a knock noise that is timed with the rotation of the tire. it won't do it under hard braking, but light to medium makes a lot of noise and it wasn't there before. Ive checked all the bolts, lug nuts, etc. I only removed the one bolt to allow the caliper to open and didn't touch anything else. used the tool to spin down the caliper, used caliper lube, hand brake is adjusted, I cant think of anything that would cause it all of a sudden. anyways, just throwing this out there, ill take another look tomorrow and see if I just missed something obvious.

the diaphragm and gasket should all be one piece, if you have a DG/DF anyway. And assuming were talking about the same thing.

like said above pull the plugs and clean out the fluid. if that doesn't change you might try hooking up a remote starter. you don't have to use a remote start, you can manually jump the starter and see if it spins but its rough on parts and pretty dangerous so I recommend the remote starter. its only $20 or so and its a very useful tool anyways. anyways jumping or remote starting will bypass the ignition and electrical system and let you run the starter on its own. I think you will find that draining the fluid from the cylinder will help though.

idk, it all seems to point to a timing issue to me. if it were a burnt valve, then why now all of a sudden? its most likely going to be the systems you messed with recently. did you rotate the motor before installing the second belt? where did you buy the belts? its not unknown for people to sell you parts from a legacy or EA81 car (though not the EA81 in this case). perhaps you got the belts for a different suby? I have no idea if the EJ and EA belts are similar, but if they are close and one is longer or shorter… just throwing darts at the board with that last one. I can't say from my chair of course, but the most likely culprit of a backfire out of the carb is timing, and since you just messed with the timing then its even more likely. might check your coolant. the base gasket on the weber may be allowing a crap ton of coolant into the manifold. useful trick for vacuum leaks is to put your hand over the carb. if you got the mother off all vacuum leaks the car will still attempt to run with the top of the car mostly blocked off.

you should write your process fro timing timing it here. backfiring out the carb is generally a timing issue, so you may be missing a step or something. I think theres a second set of marks on the flywheel to set the time, not the timing marks like on another rig. you plug the ASV's with the quarter. it goes in the ASV valve itself at the metal hose connection. the EGR isn't a big deal unless its faulty, but generally disconnecting the vacuum supply will disable it. if it is leaky or something you can get a block off plate, pull the egr valve and weld it, or any number of things. I can't see either system having anything to do with your issue. Id definitely look to timing.

I always thought the 15 degree offset was because the tire moves in a bit when its extended down, and if you push it down with spacers then you need to account for the new center line of the wheel. I would think that moving the crossmember as well wouldn't change where the wheel sits as much. Is the 15 degrees because the top mounts aren't level or something? Ill probably do that on the carrier. I don't like the idea of stuff hanging down that doesn't need to be. as long as it won't tear it up ill leave in tucked in. ill probably have to taper at least one of the brats. I think he wanted a 3 inch front and 2 inch in rear to level his rig up. thanks for the info, anything helps to get a better plan going.

Hey, so I will be building lifts with some peoples tax returns, and just wanted to verify a few things from those that have actually installed or built some. I don't have all the vehicles right here and haven't gotten a chance to fully measure and inspect them yet to get a plan. If all 3 happen, then it will be a gen 1 brat, gen 2 brat, and gen 3 wagon, so no measure one and build 3 on this project. all will be around the 3-4 inch mark. none for hardcore wheeling, just fishing, snow play, etc. basic plan is to keep all geometry stock. just to make sure I'm not forgetting something... 1) front strut spacers (assuming no need for 15 degree offset if the crossmember is dropped the same amount) 2) the wagon will have the strut spacers in the rear and I will drop the front of the trailing arm to keep the tire back under the wheel well. will drop the rear end as well (I hear that brats don't have the struts so I will need to check out how they mount up) 3) engine, trans, and carrier bearing will have rectangle tubing spacers (May tie in the engine and trans mounts, and try to run tube to the front and make skid plate mounts on it. 4) extend the steering and shift levers. Any good suggestions on the steering extension? shift levers I will probably just cut and re weld together to fit. Should end up with no impact in the interior, it should work in the stock console. ok to change it a little, but should look and fit nice. Are there any major differences in design for the different generations (besides the obviously different measurements)? Im assuming most of the cables and hoses will fit. barring changing a radiator hose or something, what are the main pitfalls of dropping the engine/trans? speedo cable or anything? Anything else I should know to check on before starting?

if you have the EA82 style wagon then the buttons that change the heater position are vacuum controlled. might start checking the vacuum supply from the motor, and definitely check out and at least plug any open ones you find in the dash. generally a vacuum problem will cause all the heat to come out of the front dash vents, but who knows.

the axle nuts need to be torqued, not snugged and backed off like a normal wheel bearing castle nut. torque is 140 lbs but it can take more than that. I generally torque to 140 then over torque it a bit to line up a hole.

id check on that power steering before buying. if I remember right the xt6 had a one off power steering system and depending on the broken aspects it could be expensive to fix (electric driven pump maybe? i can't remember). the suspension was another money pitfall, so having it replaced with standard equipment is actually a benefit in my opinion. if you want an xt6 then this one seems decent. they are hard to come by in any condition. I would fully investigate the power steering though, and price the car accordingly. with most subaru's of the era id say plan on replacing a CV or 2 and doing the timing belts but the XT6 had differences in the suspension and motor so I can't really help you there.

adapting a base plate is pretty easy. if you get one that almost fits and is a little big, you can just use a small piece of sheet metal and cut it to fit. glue them together and install/\.

I had a fuseable link fail in my truck, but it didn't actually melt. did the same thing actually, stopped at a gas station and turned it off, never started again for months until I got it fixed. I checked the fuse able links and they looked good, eventually took it to a shop and they finally found it after a couple of days. they said the fuse able link was the culprit but that it was just damaged and not failed. they did the same thing as me and said that it looked good, but quite a few hours later they were down to going item by item through the electrical and found the bad link. even the shop said they have never seen that before, so its unlikely really. the plus side is that fusible links cost a few bucks and even if it doesn't help at least you end up with a spare

a little more flow on the exhaust is a good upgrade, wouldn't go over 2 inch though. cats can be cleaned. never done it but I have heard of it, check on youtube.