djellum

send me some pics, i could be very interesting as long as its drivable and in good shape overall. I can meet you to take a look as well, I'm by Vancouver. ill pm you my phone contact if you wish to go that route.

cranking over on a very very dead battery can fry wires. I once completely fried and melted my positive lead to the starter cranking on a dead batter (or the wire was F'd and helped kill the battery, don't know for sure lol). check your main battery grounds and such for resistance. check that the alt is getting good ground, and check all wires in that circuit for dmg or corrosion. charge the battery up in another vehicle and perhaps run wires strait to the pump to see if it can run off straight juice.

you can do a 5 lug swap, no idea of the pattern is still the same for the cross trek though. also if your going to retrofit I would look at a 6 lug conversion or stick to the 5 lug with subaru parts. much more documentation than doing another manufacturer (except the peugeots, those fit on your car stock)

good effect on interiors is to mix colors. maybe blue dash, door tops, and seats (or whatever color yours is) and mix in a complimentary color for the flat vinyl on the doors or carpet or console. not that any of that would actually look good, but grey and blue go together well and it makes it easier to find parts. stay under/at a 25 inch total tire diameter (look up the tires by manufacturer to make sure the diameter is right, the printed tire sizes are approximate). as long as your suspension is good you can clear it with no lift (if you lift it, then it depends on your lift). I like to find Peugeot alloys cause they come in 14 and 15 inch sizes and have the proper lug pattern. other than that you can drill your hubs for the common 6 bolt pattern, or drill flat center 6 bolt rims to fit your pattern. advancing the timing is more about usage than anything else. changing it just alters where your power is, not how much there is. extra advance is great for town driving, light throttle, etc. less awesome for full throttle usually, but how much depends on the motor. id leave it alone until its running very well and you have driven it enough to feel the difference. webers are great, but not so great that I would pull a functioning hitachi for it. if your carb is running well let it be. if its not I would probably replace it rather than fix it, unless its something very simple. same as the timing, it doesn't really give you "more" power as much as it changes when the motor generates it. pull the cat if you wish, but I would probably check your fuel and ignition systems out before going to exhaust to solve your top end problem. plugged cats just aren't as common as people think, though it can happen so worth checking into if the problem persists. I have seen mufflers plugged with fiberglass as well, and a much easier check/fix.

contact ShawnW on this site and get him to send you an MWE one. they have a shop next to his and do quality rebuilds. Last time I talked with him it wasn't too much more for one of their axles ($75 I think but don't quote me on it). I haven't used them yet myself, but I have heard good things. also check your local shop. the shop I go to costs $150ish per axle, but come with a 1 year warranty. sometimes even they go through a couple but generally they hold and I just look at it as $12 a month for axle insurance lol.

coolant sprays sometimes, and it makes it hard to tell where it comes from. Id say do the carb gasket first and clean everything while your at it so you can see any new spots. also might be a good idea to check or change your radiator cap. they get overlooked and if they go bad it may be allowing your cooling system to pressurize too much and spray out of a gasket or hose.

Get a light tester probe. They are about $1.99 and are just a small bulb inside a pick. Hook the ground wire to something metal that eventually bolts into the chassis (most metal brackets under the dash work). With the car completely off probe the wires till it lights up, this is your battery wire. With the ignition in the run position probe wires till it lights up. Check that it will light up with the key on and that will be your ignition wire. Hook the alligator clip to a bare section of the battery wire and prob wires to find the ground wires (almost 100% they are the black wires). There will be a couple of them, the largest will be the ground for the stereo. Might just be easier to run new speaker wires

unhook the pink plugs under the dash. run new speaker wire from the front outputs on the stereo and plug them into the door side of the pink plug (cutting off a plug from a JY car lets you wire it to the end of the new speaker wires). run the rear outputs on the stereo to the appropriate rear positive and use the stock ground connection for that side. you dont have to separate the actual wires, just unplug the pink connecters and the rears will be on their own ground circuit. the shared ground is only front to back, not side to side so eliminating the connection at either end makes it a single ground.

get a long screw driver. let the engine run and place your ear against the handle while you touch different parts of the motor. you will clearly hear the sound your trying to find if you probe the right area. listen to your alternator, power steering, water pump, etc. you can tell a ton about the condition of parts doing this, even if the noise isn't within hearing range normally you can hear grinds and whines. find the source before you replace.

I believe its a pink connecter near the kick panel. just unplug it and run 2 wires from the stereo to the door half of the plug. use the stock harness for the rears.

you can try a junk yard. any loyale wagon with the same trans should fit. find a local driveline shop, or machine shop and they can probably build you a 1 piece for around $100. theres a lot on these drivelines that aren't supposed to be repairable so replacement is the easiest option.

if the gasket is fairly new you might just be able to reuse it. if you pull it all off and use some aluminum fill putty (like jbweld but make sure it will bond to aluminum) you can fill that coolant hole up and then the gasket just needs to seal the air to the carb like it was designed to do. if you do make a gasket then i would make sure that the material is suitable for stopping coolant since that is your main problem.

id imagine that you would just get a stock gasket for the bottom of the adapter, and a weber one for the top half.

you do not want all 3 ports hooked together. you want clean air to enter on the passenger side valve cover area. you can plumb it to the air cleaner or just get a breather cap, whichever. the drivers side should go to the pcv valve. you do want a small hose T'd in between the drivers side head and the pcv valve, but its only there to allow some fresh air in and reduce the suction on the drivers head. again plumb i to a filter of some sort. normally theres a small foam filter in stock air boxes so that these 2 hoses aren't pulling from the same air supply. if theres no fresh air inlet then you won't clear enough bad gases out and if theres no air inlet between the head and valve then you will drink oil. you mention replacing the fuel pump, are you sure it was for a carbed car? fuel injected vehicles have a very different fuel pump stats. webers are sensitive to fuel pressure, so check what the pump is putting out. it should be very close to 3 psi. you have a return line hooked up currently, its the second line coming off of the fuel filter in the engine bay (doesn't matter if its on the carb or filter). what I don't know is if you have the tank vent hooked up correctly. the 3 lines in the front are fuel in, fuel out, tank pressure vent. fuel in is easy to tell, but you may or may not have the other 2 switched. even if it is hooked up correctly your tank vent may be plugged off. if so and you haven't changed gas caps to allow for some tank venting it can mess with your fuel delivery.

the timing of the motor doesn't relate to the carburetor. you may be able to play with it a few degrees, but I think you should recheck your timing. the reason for the 20 degrees advance was because the EA82 was supposedly designed with fuel injection in mind and a 20 deg base time. they used up some carbs on them and the theory was that you could jack it up to 20 deg even if you had a carb model. The EA81 was designed as it is, and was always setup for a carburetor so its base of 8 deg should be where it is, plus or minus only a couple of degree's. having the timing off you can still lose power at certain amounts of throttle even if its not pinging. most of this info is 3rd hand, its just what I have read or heard others say. I run my EA82 at 20, but all the really well running EA81's Ive worked on had 8 deg. they had plenty of power and ran well at 8 deg so if you turn your timing down to that and it runs like crap then you need to retune or fix whatever else is broken. all that said, it doesn't help your heater issue. id probably flush the heater core out, and as said above drain it and replace with some known good coolant. coolant does get old as well, so if you haven't changed it out in a few years its probably due for it.

its popular, but not nearly the most economical one. if you have the motor already, and its needing the same work as the EA82, then its probably worth it imo. if you just have your car and nothing else, then your realistically looking at 1k to 1500 in just parts to swap. you can get things cheaper and reduce this, but not much farther than about $500-$700 over the cost of the EA82 at best. on the upside, pretty much better in all respects, almost double the HP (or more depending), easier to find parts for, more reliable in lots of ways. keep an eye on craigslist. you can probably find an Ej for a couple hundred bucks on the right day (make sure to get the ECU and wiring with it). if you already have the motor then you can go through it and prep it for the swap. decide if its worth it, or just sell the EJ for a small profit or something.

I would prioritize current tags and emissions inspection over all. I've gotten 2 good deals on subs from oregon cause I don't have to emission things out here and they were junk in oregon due to cost to fix. compression check is as described, plug it in, turn over the motor, check the gauge. theres also something called a leak down test which will tell you other information. not a terrible tool to have if your going to be purchasing some, not sure what they cost anymore. another check is to spray starter fluid on the hoses manifold gaskets. if the rpm changes there may be a leak there since its sucking in the fluid. make sure they let you start it cold. don't ever buy a car where the owner "warmed it up for you". for a fuel injected car just get in it and turn the key. don't press the gas pedal. if it fires right away and maintains smooth running between 1k-2k rpms until its warmed up, then its pretty stable. make sure that it will start easily, maintain high idle while it warms, reduces its idle as the engine temps get up to running speed, and keeps itself cool enough at idle without any help from you at any stage. do all of this before you ever drive it. I've let cars sit and idle for 30-40 minutes before just to make sure it will. I generally start it and then check underneath and the body while it warms up. if the seller starts to get nervous just let it ride, he might be trying to get you to drive it before it overheats. you can get some 14 inch wheels that are the same pattern as our subaru's. you can drill toyota wheels, use peugeot wheels, etc. I run 14 inch peugeot alloys and 2 inch oversized tires without a lift or a care. if your just looking for a better tire or a cooler look your not stuck to 13's, even stock.

the fact that its lower than the others means something is going on with that cylinder, but thats not a horrible reading in and of itself. id probably try some sea foam and see if the valves are just gunky (in fact, not a terrible thing to try and see if it revitalizes the power). my vote is #1) timing or vac advance #2) fuel issue or carb tune #3) worn or weak ignition system. where is the vacuum advance on your distributer fed from? it should be plugged into ported vacuum on the carb, not manifold vacuum. shouldn't affect full throttle power either way cause theres no vacuum, but may affect light throttle applications.

search out common ground on this site. the speakers in your car share ground between them all, and you have to rewire some things to get your newer deck to work correctly, whichever one you choose.

shouldn't be much of a chore to swap. make sure you use the right clutch and flywheel, I think they will "interchange" but have marks in the wrong place. might have to do some exhaust mods or plumbing mods, but nothing difficult. looks nice, I like those models. I you won't see enough benefit to full spool the rear (what I think your talking about with the locker). if you want to fully lock the rear your going to have to weld it cause nobody makes a locker to fit. great if off road, and horrible if your on the road so I would just keep looking for the LSD. once you have it installed its kind of best of both worlds. if you plan on wheeling it to the point of needing it fully locked you probably won't be driving it to work for long.

yah the overall rear end is the same, just a different ring and pinion gear and a limited slip carrier. either way the part you want is the carrier, its pretty easy to swap the gears themselves. I think some of the newer gen rears will work as well, but can't be sure on that. obviously if you swap the trans and rear then you won't have to change the ratio. says that its already swapped in your original post, do you want to swap it or is it already changed? If you have an EA81 then I wouldn't swap it. the EA82 introduced a few small issues and you have to change timing belts. not worth it for 8 hp or whatever its got over the 81. if your planning on putting money into a swap, check out an EJ swap so at least you can get a proper look at your options. the extra cost to do an EJ would probably be a bargain compared to the gain (if your going to swap anyway).

redo the gaskets (and timing belts while your at it) and drive it. shouldn't be an expensive fix, even if you pay someone to do it. make sure its the head gasket leaking, theres also a crease where the cam towers bolt to the head so it may just need that redone.

there all fine, the highlights in them imo are... older gen 2's - cable driven heater controls and easier replacement of heater cores (often kills a gen 3 due to cost). timing gear instead of belt. bit more style imo. gen 3 (loyale style) - much more common so easier to find parts in yards, fuel injection stock on later models, 5pd D/R trans. id say if your going to shop for a loyale style like the ones I have, make sure that the heater works to absolute perfection. a bad heater core is a big chore or about $500 to have replaced. id avoid turbos, mainly cause they just really don't benefit enough from them to warrant the extra maintenance and complication. fun cars for projects and play, not for daily driver. best bet though, imo, is to get an early 90's legacy or whatever flavor of sub you like in those years. easier to find parts, double the power, all options available, AWD stock. they are a bit more expensive to fix if you blow a gasket or something, but they are very reliable.

as stated above check the % that your speedometer is off so you can math out your actual mph. same with the gas mileage, you have to add the extra miles to get the right reading. getting 22-24 mpg isn't out of spec for your setup imo. I think the stalling on hills and such is indicative of a small problem (probably carb tune). it should be to hold most of its speed as long as your not climbing the sky. id double check your timing. A lot of people up the timing on EA82's, and someone may have attempted it on your EA81 which does not like it. also check the fuel system and carb tune, it might just not be flowing enough fuel to keep its power up. totally floored pedal isn't your best way to climb a hill when its already struggling. try picking your toes up a bit.

check the 4wd section. there are some subs with a stock limited slip rear, but I think generally you will have to put your ring and pinion on it due to a difference in ratios. you should be able to search it out easy. not much you can do with the front though.