djellum

they make universal cables that will turn a choke to manual. it will be cable driven and have a knob in the cab.

do you have a breather cap on the passenger side? you need to take air in on the passenger side. if you just have a hose going directly to the pcv then its probably sucking up oil like a straw. you should put a T inline with a small opening to allow some fresh air in. you want to keep the air inlet small so you still suck crank case gasses, you can run it to the air cleaner which would be best. also dont forget when you pull a bunch of stuff off you get oil and grease spread around, it might just need a good washing.

I think you know, but just in case, theres a filter in the rear under the car by the passenger tire. some more specific info would help. will it stumble at that speed regardless of how deep in the throttle you are, or will it act up at certain rpms as well? when you say starved for gas, do you mean bucking and sputtering, just vibrating hard, etc?

base timing should be 8 degrees, as stated, wtihout the vacuum hooked up (but make sure to plug the hose so you dont have a vacuum leak). the total (max) timing will be very high, over 40 degrees, but it moves around depending on your throttle position. if you hit the throttle and the timing quickly moves high, then I doubt theres any significant problems with the system. nothing that would cause any major problems at higher rpms. I would check the vacuum advance and readjust the 2 degrees that you are short and give it a check. if it remains problematic repost with some better explanations of what weird is. I would suspect on the surface that its more likely a fuel system issue.

I dont know if it has been done, or if the investigator checked, but before you do anything, you need to pull all the spark plugs and the starter and try to turn the motor over by hand with a wrench. it would be best to dissconnect the clutch as well, but thats a bit much for you to do from the sound of it. pulling out the starter and spark plugs is something you can do in an hour and it will tell you if the motor is actually seized or not. if it is then it may not be worth your time and money to fix it, or it may, thats up to you. personally I think any car you buy will need multiple things you dont know about and end up costing the same or more. If you want a newer car or something different though, then go for it.

check your coolant. you may be dribbling water in through the base gasket. fuel filters should be replaced, just on principle, but you should also check your fuel pressure. webers are sensitive to fuel pressure. check your vacuum advance line, make sure its on ported vacuum. ussually not a major problem at speed, but always a thing to double check.

I can make you one if we can get the blueprints. I don't want to try and edge in one someone else's business, but if you get the prints and don't want to make it yourself I can help out.

blame or fault cant be found until you know what actually happened. you need to find out why its seized. if you can do that and it shows a likelyhood of his work that caused it, then go back to him and see what he can do to make it right. you dont have to let him work on your car anymore, but giving him a chance to refund, or advise you on where to go, etc, will help you in the long run no matter what path it takes. Mechanics are as prone to mistakes as anyone else, but they should deal fairly or lose business because of it. if you pay with a credit card, the credit company will pull back your money from him if this goes sour, but you assume any liability of getting sued by the company.

octane rating isnt about performance, its about reliability. once the situation in the combustion chamber gets to the point of detonation you need to up your octane rating to protect your motor. it will run better, but only because its running as intended (or closer to it) I think if you actually did all the math, you would find that the cars here and wherever you are Tallonx, would be built the same. we know that HP calculations and octane ratings are different in different areas, so it will really take some math or a build sheet on a motor to tell. I do beleive from some other talks here, that once the math was done out, europe generally did have a slightly better octane rating, but it wasnt by very much the only one that really makes me think is your boost. if your using the same PSI we use, as many countries do, then you would be cresting the hill for what I think a car over here would do. gas would make a difference, and its not going to blow up tomorrow or anything, but I would wonder if the fuel system could keep up with it very well. if theres any difference I would think the fuel system would be one of them.

if you swapped in the D/R, I would expect a plug on the handle under the console or car that sends the signal to the dash. can likely just run new wires from there to your high/low lights. if your using the stock oil pressure gauge, getting an aftermarket and running it there is a good option, most people dog on the stock gauge. the bracket is just a flat bar bracket with 2 tabs sticking up, like a short legged U. there are holes for wireing and such, but the 2 small L brackets would do the job. understand about cutting and screwing into the dash though. actually I think you will find many uses for it, as long as its set properly. you should check your oil on flat ground, so it lets you find it.

battery lead is straight from the battery to keep the radios memory, acc or switched power is the signal the radio gets to turn on and I think it actually feeds most of the power. when you turn off the car just go 1 single click back then turn it forward 1 click, this should turn off the engine and leave the stereo on. the radio shouldnt run in any other position. if it runs in those positions and keeps memory then its hooked up right (2 of the wires anyway) first thing is to get a light tester if you dont have one already, that will allow you to find the right wires if you get lost somewhere. they are about $5, any parts store or walmart. the 3 wires you must have are power, ground, and acc (switched power). all 3 should be on the origional harness if you can get to it. dont cut the harness if its there, either crimp on a connector that will fit in the slot, or use the side crimping splicers. hook up your test light to a piece of metal in the dash. they arent all good grounds but try a couple and you will find one that traces metal all the way to the body. 1 - find your battery hot wire. with the key off and out of the ignition, probe the ends of the wire harness with your light tester until it lights up. if you dont find one check your tester ground on the cig lighter or ash tray light. if your grounds good and you still cant find one, run a new wire directly from the battery with a small inline fuse. since it sounds like you already have it hooked up, if your radio presets and clock dont reset after turning it off, then this wire is right. if they go away then its not hooked up right. 2 - find your accessory wire. this wire will be tested just like the hot wire, but it will only work with the key in the ignition and in the on position (last click before you twist to start. if you cant find this you need to patch into another wire that is on that circuit. blower switch, sometimes cigarette lighter, etc. if this is hooked up correctly then with the key in the full on position (or the car running) the radio will be on, and when you turn it off it will shut off. often the hot and acc wires get backwards and it will run at odd times like when the car is off. 3 - once you have the hot wire ran or found, hook the clamp of the light tester to it and check for ground. if any light up they are a ground. be carefull since you can get light from speaker grounds in these cars as well. if you cant figure out what is what, then test the nearby bolts and find one with a good connection and just run the stereo wire to it. Illumination is the dimmer switch, there will probably be an amp control wire, and other ones. just focus on the above three for this install. for speakers, search out common ground on the site to find the proper speaker wire connector in the front kick panel. you will want to sever the ground connection and run a new ground connection to it from the back of the stereo. then hook up the rear speakers to the normal speaker wires under the dash. my preference is to cut a plug out of a junk yard car and just run new wires to the front using the plug so you dont have to cut stock wires out.

no clear number really. install an exhaust temp gauge near the head. that will tell you if you begin to run lean as your exhaust temperature will raise (sorry I dont remember what the degree was that was in the yellow/red). you can install a combustion chamber temp gauge but that takes machining. as long as you can maintain the fuel flow and keep the combustion cool, then I think you will be ok for the most part. you can stress head gaskets, but yours is pretty fresh. heat and head gaskets are likely your main concerns.

stock ours came I believe at 110-115 hp. I would guess that slight difference in the value of HP, or a slight difference in their advertising. theres a couple different ways hp is calculated. the fuel could make a difference in the timing profile, amount of boost you can run stock, etc, so there may be an increase from that, but even people who have built them here and run only proper gas have had issues. I would bet that your fuel there allows for more boost without having as many issues though. its not so much that it will blow sky high at those power ratings, its just that without thousands of dollars in just accessories it cant run it reliably (here at least). for example the injectors need upgraded out of the gate, if you want to do it correctly then you should at least evaluate the fuel pump and lines as well. the computer can handle some increase, but above a small gain you will need to add a fuel management system (or reprogram the cpu) or risk running lean or having issues that will cause major problems. then you add the turbo cost, boost controller, boost gauges and exhaust temp gauges. exhaust, innercooler, etc. this is without motor work. now if you have the money and you do all this properly id say sure it can reliably driven, but if an injector fails and you run lean at those boost levels it will go quick. also at this point head gaskets and head cracks become even more of a threat. also drive train issues once you gain too much and start stressing those. for less money you can run N/A 140 - 160 hp EJ with no turbo lag, better mileage, and more lifespan due to design and part availability. still stress your drivetrain though. really any motor with 40% increase in power is likely to have issues of some kind. all cars break at some point, more often if you drive them hard, and even more often if you squeeze out the limits and then drive them hard. Im not against EA82T's in any way. id buy one right now if I found one that was nice and had the money, but they already have issues that are just increased by these performance upgrades and my perfect motor is one that I drive often and dont have to fix.

yes, my sisters Montero has one, it has a volt meter instead of the 4wd lights, a compass in the middle (i dont know if its all internal, but hers doesnt work), and I cant remember if its front to back or side to side on the last inclinometer port. it does mount flat though. I havent installed mine yet. its just a toy basically, but ill get around to it. I thought about actually cutting a square hole in the front face of the dash and mounting it there next to the vents. wouldnt cover up anything, would stay flat, and you dont have to worry about color matching. I dont know if I can commit to cutting into the dash there though (not to mention I dont know what is behind it yet) you dont need ramps really, the inclinometer can just sit against the back raised part of the dash, and be screwed into the mounting screws in the front. if you look at the inclinometer, the face bolts into the outer colored housing and there is 2 holes in the side where the whole unit mounted to the bracket. you could just use an L bracket mounted on the flat of the dash and using the 2 screw holes, with the back of the housing resting on the rear part of the dash, but it would leave empty space where the angle makes the triangle in the back. the only reason for the back part of the mount is just to take up space, it doesnt really even need to be screwed at the back. basically its a simple L bracket with extended metal in the back so you dont have blank space.

I dont know about the crank, id say adapting it to an EA82 would cost more than it would be worth. I am assuming you want it for more stroke? but the crank is only part of stroking out the motor, you have to adjust piston or crank arms as well to keep the piston from raising too high in the block. I dont know if it may work with just the crank for sure though. if you want to add the turbo you need a proper computer out of the correct subaru, or spend money on a stand alone and laptop. megasquirt is probably the best solution if your going to have to aquire the ECU anyway. high compression and boost is possible but it will take a lot more than adding pistons and a turbo. again the motor cant handle it in stock form, and will require some fairly major upgrades. you will have to upgrade the injectors at least, and likely the entire fuel system so that it can keep up with the fuel demands of a motor. the fuel system is rated for HP, and subaru didnt leave much if any expansion capacity in their fuel systems. you probably dont need a cats meow fuel pump due to the low HP in general, but you will likely have to get at least a higher output stock one from another vehicle, get new injectors, and possibly run new fuel line. the pressures in the combustion chamber can only take so much, when subaru added boost they dropped the compression ratio to 7.7/1. this made room for the extra air and fuel that the turbo added. adding that compression back is no different than putting on a bigger turbo (as far as dependability goes). if you go all the way to 9.5 with spfi pistons, I dont know that I wouldnt run less boost than stock. in my mind its a better system, to run less boost and higher compression, simply because it would give more power in town when your not on the boost a lot, but you will need to make sure your headgaskets are in top shape. id be prepaired to replace them more often as well. the heads really are the beating heart of any motor. its basically just a big air pump, the only real way to make more power is to pump more through it. you can force more air/fuel into the chamber with forced induction or increase the amount of volume that the cylinder pulls. thats why bigger motors stroke out, it allows them to push more through without stressing the components and running aviation fuel. even a large motor starts with the heads though, thats one reason you get 3 different 351 ford motors that all have vastly different outputs. an EA82 is generally cut out from the most productive changes since there are no viable ways to increase volume significantly, and they cant take the heat and pressure from what most would consider minor forced induction. this really has been worked out. experimentation isnt bad, you can and should find out things for yourself, but there have been numerous people, including some that have posted here, that have actual motor building experience, work in machine shop, etc, that have brought real science to this idea. the heads have been inspected, modified, and found lacking, people have run big turbos, independant fuel mgmt, high compression, superchargers and the list goes on. botom line is that you can have a reliable 110 hp car, a fairly reliable 125 hp car if you spend another 1k, or a suspect 135+ hp car for a few thousand dollars. or you can have a very reliable 165 hp car for $1k - $1500 with a motor swap. if you really want some decent advise you will have to start with a budget number, since money is the only real obstacle.

disclaimer, im not an electrician by any means. but something to maybe turn up some searches on the site here. I think the pink connecter in the last is for the speakers. they were on mine, but mine is a different year and generation. search out common ground and you will find write ups that might pertain to your year so you can check. similar on the square gizmo, there is one that looks like that in my generation of car that runs the blower switch. in mine it plugs in behind the glove box. check and see if there is a matching plug there. cant help with the other parts

id say the missfire would be number 1 as to why its running rough. leaky intake gaskets can kill a cylindar and weaken the others, and of course if your vavles aren't opening correctly you can have compression but no intake charge as well. the SPFI still pulses fuel, but i dont know if it pulses for each cylindar individually or if it just pulses at a rate for the RPM's. I dont really know off hand what is the most likely, but i would probably check the intake gaskets

I got one out of a tercel at the junk yard. $5 for the gauges, housing, and mounting bracket. the tercel dash is angled. what I would do is make 2 brackets that run on the flat part of the dash, and also mount onto the angled part where the clock is. set them up to hook into the dash and have a squarish mount going front to back that hooks into the housing of the gauges. paint that black. I dont know if I'm explaining it well, but the end result in looks would be the the gauges strait up and down in the housing, and the housing going upward and touching the back of the dash next to the clock. the little triangle of empty space in the back will just show the painted black bracket.

if the concern is power, then its a neutral equation. you wont gain or loose any significant power. it could be an emission or inspection problem though. my advice if its possible is to cut out the cat, and weld in 3 bolt flanges that fit a normal aftermarket cat. then you can put flanges on a straight pipe and bolt it in. you can add a cat back in later if needed, and use more modern ones and cheaper aftermarket ones. if cheapest is best, pull it and hollow it out, then put it back in.

the car doesnt have a carb, it will be fuel injected. least ways unless someone has swapped something but I seriously doubt it. id still shoot for vacuum leak, visual inspection of the hoses first, replace what you find. if you cant find a leak, it wont kill it to leave it running at 2500 or so while you spray some carb cleaner on the hoses to check for leaks you cant see. just spray a little bit and listen to the motor noise, if it changes inspect that area more closely. id repair the wires too if they are damaged, no sense leaving a problem.

I think its natural to want to make our cars the best they can be, no matter what they are. I used to dream of making my Chevette into a sleeper drag car, but reality stepped in and reminded me that it was a Chevette. I would still have to start with the same wad of money that anyone else uses to make a drag car and just drape the Chevettes body over it. every motor has a capacity attached to it. big blocks arent faster than small blocks, HP is HP and weight is weight all day long. however big blocks in most cases have a higher capacity for HP in general. for most of us it doesnt matter, but as soon as you want to cross a certain line in the sand you will have to start with a base product that can achieve it. EA82's, and really any EA motor, is just pretty much wrung out already. Subaru pretty much set them up at their peak output while maintaining reliability. sure you can do things to them, especially if you have money, but you really cant do much to it without taking it into the science experiment side of wrenching. thats why so many members just say EJ it, theres no parts support, no available capacity, and little or no ability to handle the power reliably. not to say there havent been 200hp EA's, but they were hardly cheap and even those that built them and knew them in and out had to be careful with their foot sometimes. for the OP - in all honesty, if I were building what I view as the perfect or maximized EA82, I would do the SPFI pistons, Delta cams, a decent 2 inch or so exhaust with a good flowing or deleted cat, and a weber. it wont make much more power, but I think you will get some better response in your foot from it, and it wont break the bank or blow sky high tomorrow (just watch your octane with the higher compression). the only other thing I want to experiment with on mine, would be to have the distributor recurved. it costs about $100 and it would be cool to see what the distributor rebuilders think of how the timing works in these cars, since they don't run much like anything else in the distributor sector.

yah its doable no problem. they make a snorkel adaptor already, you can just buy it and route a cold air instead of a snorkel. making the adaptor for the top of the carb is easy, but price out your hoses and air cleaners and such, it might be a better route to just buy the kit. if you still want to talk about the project, you can call me at (360) 334-2531, or email me through my website at http://www.davidjwelding.com/home.html ill need to know what size filter and what dimensions your current air cleaner has on it.

really couldnt tell you, I just remember it was between me and Seattle. Sounds like Tosborn has a name to check out, id start there.

not to hijack too much, but a question. is there any pitfalls when installing a vented gas cap so you can plug off the tank vent hose? after removing mine once I did the weber swap, I just left my tank vent open. I havent had a single issue with it that way, but I dont like it on general principle. is there a certain pressure level to achieve or avoid, or just buy any old vented cap that fits?

there was a run of EA pistons that had over 9:1 compression. I cant remember the years, it was way back when on the XT forum. I dont know if I'm remembering correctly but the SPFI pistons were 9.5 I believe. that would be plenty of compression to start with. the bottom ends on these are stout enough so the shortblock should be done once you get the pistons you want. mating the heads to the block is important. machining for O-rings is good, some people have done copper head gaskets, but i think just good quality gasket is enough unless you go turbo. I would leave the heads alone if it were me. ive seen people do cross section cuts, custom head work, and many other things. most say theres just not much to be gained here. again just use good quality parts. I know there is a manifold that everyone called the spider manifold and people searched it out because it supposedly flowed better. I dont know if its specific to certain heads, but I havent heard that it is. Id search it out and start with that manifold and those heads if there is a difference. cams are from delta, you got that part. might look into lightening flywheels and using electric accessory pumps, but I dont know what all the pro's and con's are with that, so I cant comment on them. I dont know what your fuel delivery is going to be, probably MPFI is your best bet if you have the harness and such. if not a well tuned weber. if you go for fuel injection then replace or retune your injectors, cause you will starve the motor if you up the HP too much without modifying injectors. if you go fuel injection look into an independant management system. do a decent exaust and thats about it. list it all out, and I would start with SPFI pistons, the best available gen 3 heads, delta cams, and the best flow in and out for your fuel and exhaust.