djellum

first thing has got to be spending some time on the stock cooling system and fuel system. make sure that they are both running top notch. if you run it lean or hot it will be done for if your going to do anything related to boost, then install an exhaust temp gauge. this will let you know if your pushing the motor limits and running too lean. an intercooler is good, as is a bit more exhaust flow. neither will cause problems. the only other engine mod I would really consider is sending the cams off to Delta Cams and have them reground to a more performance spec. that will be the most bang for your buck and will not kill anything. as said earlier if you do decide to work to increase the boost, keep it light (10-12 max) and upgrade the fuel system first or you will detonate it running lean. Id lean towords sending off your hubs to be drilled rather than a 5 lug conversion. the conversion is a pretty substantial undertaking and you will end up with hybrid parts that you have to modify before they will fit.

to do it right you need a new cone washer and spring washer. order them direct from subaru (they are called "center piece axle"). you can buy a new castle nut and kotter pin kit at a normal parts store for like $5 if you want, but the new center piece axle kit is essential. the spring washer is directional and says "out" where it contacts the castle nut. I personally had the machine shop do it. Im not scared of doing bearings but it only cost $35 a side to have them press out the old, hot tank clean the spindle, and grease and install the new bearings and seals. not a bad price for just picking it up and putting it back on. id probably also buy ball joints since they will be coming off anyway.

what did you do with the ASV's? I used big vacuum plugs and capped them off at the valve next to the trans. I see you have your baffles still on, id remove them if they arent hooked up anymore.

air control vacuum valve. If I remember right it goes between the metering ports on a hitachi carburator. it should be on the vacuum diagram under your hood.

sorry, thought it was an EA82 manifold and weber swap. I de-emmissioned my hitachi long before I did the weber swap on mine, simply because of massive vacuum leaks. you can basically pull everything and cap the ports on the carb, but you have to get the bowl vent right or it wont run for crap. the bowl vent keep the pressure in the bowl set properly. to much pressure can flood the carb, too little can starve it. the bowl vent should be a big round orifice on top by the fuel inlets but facing the passenger side. you have to have it slightly restricted but not blocked off. I used a smaller hose than normally fits on the nipple, crammed it on, and left it about 3 ft long. this got me close, ran good, and was getting 28 to the gallon, so not far off.

Hey, I have a leaky power steering pump, and theres little I detest more than power steering on small light vehicles. I have had more problems over the years with power steering than any other car system. since its not much more for a steering rack at rock auto than it is for a pump, no brainer. its on an 87 GL, carbed EA82 wagon theres 2 options for manual steering from cardone 242625 - appears to be for EA81 cars even though I selected EA82 in the section, and it also lists GL up to 89. also its for FWD, but is there a difference? I cant imagine the steering in the front being different. 242304 - looks to be the right one, 4wd, 85-89, and much more expensive. Just kind of hopeing its a typo on the previous one, but i suspect the typo is showing up in the EA82 section. also has anyone had issues with this remanufactured part?

once you have the weber there is not only no need for the other hoses, but no place for them either. most of the valves and hoses couldnt be hooked up even if you wanted to. the hoses dont do anything for power, they just run the carb, and the weber doesnt need them. the diagram should be on the underside of your hood. basically make sure that everythiing that is needed on the list is there, plumb any of your wants that actually have ports to use, and throw out the rest. essentials are fuel line to carb ported vacuum line from carb to distributor manifold vacuum to heater controls gas tank vent left open (or plugged with vented cap) possible additions you may want to do fuel return line vacuum line to EGR beyond this the only thing that may need a vacuum line would be an accessory like AC or something, but I cant think of anything off hand. the carbon canister does nothing anymore, all the carb control valves do nothing. the Air suction valves still work but they dont have a place to pull air from so you have to plug them off or have an exhaust leak (or plumb them again, but most people don't). Anti afterfire valve can go, but Id recommend leaving the EGR operational unless its malfunctioning in some way. all it does is lower your combustion temps at speed, no power loss, and a little cooler operation for whatever its worth. that said I probably would delete rather than fix it.

my local machine shop pressed out the old ones, hot tanked the spindles, regreased and pressed in bearings, and installed seals for $35 a side. great price if your a little bit lazy, plus its nice getting it tanked to remove all the ball joint rust. on that note, pick up some ball joints as well, might as well replace them while its out.

just do the seals on the pump, unless you think its faulty for some reason.

id get some basic rubber floor mats, cut them to desired shape, and install.

Id say the fuel on the plugs is more indicative of a spark issue. if its running rich it should still burn but leave a black mess on the plug, raw fuel is more a sign of no spark to ignite it.

Hey, have an 87 GL wagon, carbed. I have heard on the EA81 cars they were set up inside the cabin for AC, even if they never came with it installed. doesnt seem like the same holds true for my EA82, but I was wondering what interior parts were needed. I see full AC systems all the time at the JY, at least in the motor compartment. The only think I can think of for a normal system that has to be in the cabin is the evaporator coils and the control switch, but i was wondering if the core setup or ducting was different and unusable. Likely a pipe dream, but I have to replace my heater core soon, and I can put the AC stuff in there while Im at it if needed.

assuming that you checked spark and ignition condition, did you check fuel pressure and/or flow?

check in the 4x4 section, or maybe contact SJR. when they make lifts for them the use drop or move the rear end. they probably deal with them more than others. or try a junk yard. Id probably check generic ones or see if ones from a shock will fit. I don't think its a common repair or care for most people.

Do you have to remove the lower joint? you can rent strut compressors (be sure they are for struts, not springs) which should allow you to take out the strut by itself. there is a strut mount with a bearing at the top as well, id at least check it so you can replace if needed while its apart. only problem is that they cost as much as struts so it doubles the cost per side. may or may not be the problem, but worth a look. I would get the strut new or at least reman. they are too wearable of a part for me to risk JY gear, maybe the top mount if they look good though.

the baffle looks different on the drivers side. I have no idea if there are variations, but since they bolt into the head there should be one for each. the one on the drivers side was a triangular baffle and the ASV and Baffle are a little more crammed and hidden from all the fuel and disty stuff. follow the tube from the bottom of the head and it should be apparent. Jeszek - I would imagine that all of them had it, air injection has been an emission component since the 70s. Theres always discrepancies but I know my 70 Torino was made with an air injection standard in any state simply because California required them. I cant imagine a California car that wouldn't, maybe it was altered before it was imported.

There are 2 of them, one on each side of your motor they are part of the air suction system. the last picture you have is the actual ASV valve. best option is to go below to the head and cut and weld the tube that runs to the valve and remove the whole system. I didnt have time for that, so i pulled those plastic baffles (mine were leaking and causing after fires) and just plugged the port on the ASV valve with a big vacuum plug. you dont need the system for normal running, its just there to add air to the exhaust for catalyst purposes. If you dont have to emission then you can pull it. I dont know what problems it may cause if you still have to get it emissioned. I figure you dont care much since your webering it.

First I would check the coolant levels and see if there are any leaks anywhere Then Id just listen and see if the fan comes on when the temps rise to around 50% or so on the gauge. if it goes higher and no fan, check on that first. third I would check the thermostat. buy a subaru one from the dealer. they are about $4 more, but well worth it, there have been many people on here, myself included, that have tried aftermarket ones and had to replace them in days. it could be a head gasket, but probably best not to jump right to the worst conclusion, check the other stuff and report back.

If you take a metalurgy class and you get to tensile test different metals you are guaranteed to jump. some alloys and treatments just dont flex, and watching one pop at 120k pounds with no warning or stretch is intense.

I certainly wouldnt jump all the way to a faulty transmission if its only a random thunk noise and no other issues, vibrations, or indications of slipping/binding. take a break and recheck everything. Im betting your just missing something.

thoriated is tougher than pure tungsten, which is why it has a problem balling up properly. I could see using it if you plan on running too hot for the size of tungsten you use, but generally pure in the proper size is better. the "moly" is molybdenum (sp). its often added to steels to make them tougher without making it as brittle. My guess would be the light chrome precipitates to the surface to help a bit with corrosion, and the molybdenum makes it tough without needing to be treated. can probably get away with just welding it, but I would think there is still a better process out there somewhere to keep the Chromium on the surface or properly mix the Molybdenum. would the pushbar care, not a bit, but its decent google material to find out more. also dont forget that most ratings are tensile strength (resistance to pulling apart), and impacts aren't always tensile in nature. you can also check charpy rating which will tell you how the metal reacts to cold. wont matter in my area, but if your wheeling in 0 degrees it may depending on the alloy (Moly steel is likely proven there, but still). I agree, shape is the most important thing for the roll bars.

its almost always better to just fix what you have. your parts probably lasted 200k already, just replace them and you will get another 200k. you could make a case for going to newer CV's, just because aftermarket for us is so bad, but even then I think its just better to spend some extra money on good ones, or I take it to a local shop with a 12 month warranty. It costs $150 a side for parts labor and warranty, so I figure its $15 a month for CV insurance. Oh and check your machine shops prices. I was going to do all my bearings myself even though they "require" them to be pressed, but then I found out that my local shop would press out the old bearings, hot tank the spindles, grease and press in new bearings, and install seals and CV's for $35 a side. Pretty cheap versus cussing all day long at them.

You build a trailer to use as a step to get to your roof rack. A friend of mine found old missle cases at an surplus store for $40. I plan on puting some mounts on some and when i build my rack have them able to mount up. that way you can carry stuff dry if you want to. If you want to be crafty, I would do a modular one where you can mount things like dry storage, or side rails, and remove them when you dont need them. that way you can remove rails and tire for mileage, pack wheeling tools, or keep stuff dry for camping.

I have a 90 amp lincoln for portability, a millermatic 200 for the shop (hopefully with a spool gun soon), and a lincoln stick welder. I am working on the funds for a tig machine, but first I have to get some other stuff together. couple of things to watch out for on stainless. once you weld it its not stainless anymore unless you follow a documented proceedure to keep it that way. it moves the molecules all around and can take away the strength or stainless qualities. something to check into, you dont want the welds on your stainless piece to rust. generally its best to weld and re heat treat it if you can, but most cant so try to find a process for the stainless you are using and follow it. a good alternative where applicable is to braze stainless. since it doesnt melt the parent metal it wont mess up the stainless qualities. Also stainless is very reactive with air, so it will even react in the not weld area if you get it hot. it will form a black sand paper like coating (often on the opposite side) called sugaring, so be carefull with your heat input. for steel Tig you want a 45 degree grind on your tungsten tip, but for stainless you want it to have a long taper point. this helps wet out the puddle since stainless wants to rope up as you weld it. once you get it to wet out right, its pretty much just like steel as far as technique is concerned. for aluminum you need to make sure your machine can do AC. you need an AC machine to break up the oxides as your welding. you need a different tungsten (pure I believe but could be forgetting), that gets "balled up". take a flattened piece of copper, and grind the tungsten to a point. start an arc on the copper. the copper wont melt but the tip of the tungsten will form a ball at the end of the point. now your ready to start. if your too hot the ball will fall off and ruin the weld, too cold and it wont ball up. adjust the size of the tungsten or amps accordingly. a 3x3 flat chunk of copper (or any size really) is a hell of a usefull thing. if your welder is set up for steel or aluminum it wont have the oomph for the copper, so you can clamp it on to things and weld over it without it sticking. good for filling gaps and holes. I just took some scrap copper piping from an old house and flattened it in a vise. sounds like a decent plan, just make sure your process allows the stainless to remain so and I think your set. a design that includes cross member drop blocks for the engine and trans would be a good idea as well,

you can take the normal hubs and drill 4 holes to make them the common 6 lug pattern. Toyota, Nissan, I believe Ford as well. you can upgrade to legacy suspension, but its a pretty involved process and ends up I believe with hybrid equipment like combining 2 different CV's into one. look in the 4x4 section for the drill instruction, but its really simple, drill 4 holes, put lug stud in them, then redo the bearings and such and install. you can even drill the holes while its getting rebuilt and do the lug studs and wheels later if you want.