djellum

just throwing it out there, did you hook up the 2 diagnostic wires before you timed it? and what degree did you time it to.

id replace your fuseables just in case. i have had issues with other vehicles from faulty but not fully broken fuseables causing the cpu to fail safe and not power up. still had juice but it was intermittent weirdness and no start or even crank over. I doubt it will solve your problem but worth the $6 to me. keep the ones you pull in a baggy for emergency use. I'm certainly not the electrical person here, but have you unplugged the AC unit and bypassed the belt that drives it? if its fully locked up or otherwise faulty who knows what it is contributing to.

I assume it ran fine before, and you didnt mess with the dizzy or wires? its easy to get a little bit of slop in the belts when you install them. I point the the cam marks up, then back them up just a little by hand (1/2 -1 tooth) to get the belt to slide on easy. then I hand turn it to remove the slack in the side opposite the tensioner before adjusting the tensioners. end result should be no major slop in the long side of the belt and cam mark up. if you get the belt on when the cam is in perfect place but theres slack on the long side, the tensioners can pull it a tooth or so out of place once everything settles in. you dont want to get them super tight so dont use tools, just make sure there is tension in the belt. nothing is more likely to be messed up than what you just messed with, so I would double check the belt marks now that it is ran and see if they still line up right. with the marks set see if you can hand crank the cam sprocket. should have little play if any. also after your done let the car run for a minute or so and then reset the tensioners. not a must but lets everything settle into its place.

hard to tell from what you said but you have to rotate after installing the first belt, before you install the second one, and its not based on the degree timing marks. theres a seperate set of marks the look like 3 vertical lines on the flywheel. use those for timing belt installs. they are roughly on the opposite side of the degree marks but are a little off. sometimes hard to see.

get a set of shorty open/box ends. harbor frieght has them for under $10. great things, I keep them in the storage compartments in the rear of my wagon for emergency.

+1 for pulling the motor. most times you try to shortcut it costs you more time then just doing it the easy way. these motors are so light you dont even need a stand if you have a sturdy shop table. dont ditch the covers if they are useable. coverless can still cause issues, and deeper snow is one of them. since your in portland its the most likely scenario to use the 4wd. if your straight street car then ok, but even then more protection is better. if you do try to do it in the car (or out of it for that matter) one of the more important things is not to lose the washer between the head and cam tower. its a special part and the car wont run without it. its also hard to keep in place so stick it with some grease as well.

id check vacuum leaks. use carb cleaner and spray the base gasket, hoses, and manifold gaskets. be carefull around the carb and use a straw nozzle if it has one. you cant spray so much that it gets sucked in the top of the carb. if theres an idle change theres probably a vacuum leak there. also double check that your linkage isnt too tight and opening the throttle plates to much. if you can, disable the choke until you get the car to run right. then adjust it after. check your timing. how did you tune it? basic way I do it is to disable the choke if possible, wait till its completely warm if not. hook up a vacuum gauge and use that to tune. theres online instructions if you want to look them up, but basically looking for highest smooth vaccum setting with the mixture screw. +1 on a weber, best upgrade for them if its legal in your area.

is it an auto? if so a trans cooler. look up Jeszek on here, he has writeups on the springs your changing. you can also fit bigger struts and other goodies. imo dont mess with the boost, keep it low. ea82 turbos are temperamental already. course fun is a factor, so if you do mess with the boost, try adding a temp sensor for the exhaust gasses close to the motor. it can show you how hot the combustion chamber is getting so you can take your foot out of it, but I believe it needs to be very close to the chambers. never done it but when people used to build turbo 82's with high boost or over the 150 hp line they swore by it. build a gnarly skid plate, easy to rip up the exhaust and oil pan with the flat motors. for cold weather bypass the blower resistor and put a manual dial control on it. failure of the defog is a real possibility on these rigs. lifts are super easy, but so is cutting the fenders. I wouldnt worry about it, but you should do a 6 lug redrill for bigger and stouter rims/tires. all it takes is a drill bit and 2 extra lug studs per tire. basically you use 2 holes from the stock pattern and drill out the other 4 for a standard six lug setup. theres writeups if you search. 13 inch tires are all crap anymore, even 14's would give you options. I know a few guys that cut strips out of 5 gallon and 50 gallon plastic containers for fender flares if such a thing is needed. Heat is your mortal enemy. people have mounted intercoolers under and on the hood with cutouts, and I would put at least an extra electric fan in somewhere. if you do the pan seal a few people suggest just epoxying it on. they suck in general. id bring a full timing kit or as close to one as you can afford. at least a nice new set of belts and hopefully tensioners.

will a manual bearing race press get out the rears? like the bolt driven ones you can rent?

belt too wide? belts should sit completely inside the pully, but not too deep. flush with the outer diameter of the pulley or showing outside of the pulley is too large. it reduces your surface contact and prevents it from getting a grip. some belts are too tall as well, so they may contact the inner edge of the pulley. need to get the sides in play. once a belt squeels any signifigant amount you should clean the pulley. wire brush is generally enough but you might try some cleaner as well. gets buildup there. ive also had pulleys put back on backwards on the water pumps and such that make it just a little out of alightment. also maybe lost a spacer behind a pulley? check alternator mounts and condition of water pump and alt shaft to see if they are moving during operation. if 90 deg twist means the belt twists between 2 pulleys dont do that. should be a nice smooth circle.

Painless wiring kit. all labeled with a new fusebox and connectors all ready to go. cheaper ones have a dash ingnition, which I believe the bug has anyway? carbed ea82 in a bug shouldnt have any major wiring concerns. might be tricky in the heater controls or something but motor and lights and such should be basic. other than that lay out the harness on the bench and start checking resistances on all the circuits. any wire with too much resistance check the end connections and wire condition, replace as needed. If its already cut up poorly id probably just focus on the essentials like lighting, ignition, heater controls and worry about stereos and cigarette lighters afterwards. you can always just use separate wires for stereo stuff and keep it independent of the harness.

front mount a narrower radiator? https://www.carthrottle.com/post/cJvbjh/ a narrow and tall radiator could be made to match the front nose of the trunk, which could be cut off of course. theres a volkswagon made into a T bucket that runs around my town. front fenders off, front suspension extended forward, sides cutout under the trunk but still rear engined. sorta like this https://urightbrothers.blogspot.com/2012/09/popular-vw-beetle-customizationsstyles_15.html

Theres a ton of EJ motors that will fit. best options would be one of the earlier lower horsepower ones. im sure there are hundreds of people who ran or run higher output motors on the stock running gear but I wouldnt trust the strength. EJ18 that I have is 118 horsepower, 2.2's have a range of HP's generally between 125 and 165. id stick with ej18 or ej22 in the lower HP ranges but ive seen lots of people running 2.5's. theres a whole lot of ej swap stuff here if you search for it. stock your car is between 80-100 hp depending on year and options.

looks like a weber or weber clone. probably of the DFV model instead of the DGV model. same carb but reversed in direction for the throttle and have a slightly different top plate shape. just look up a weber DFV and you will probably see that it matches. if it is a DFV most all of the parts are interchangeable such as jets and things that arent direction specific. fab up a radiator mount behind the rear seat? id probably do the radiator in the motor compartment and space the seat back forward a few inches so that it can draw cabin air. electric fans on the motor side of the radiator like normal. no idea if its doable, just dart boarding ideas. can also do smaller radiators side and hood mounted as well

well if you push out the lower controls then you will need less angle to push the strut out farther. I don't know what angle, but it would be less than the normal lift block. if you know that the lower will push out 1.75 then the top should do the same to maintain alignment. draw a side view of the standard ea81 lift block to scale on a piece of paper. make a mark 1.75 inches farther to the outside (or whatever you find is the actual extra width is). remeasure the angle from that new bottom point to the original top marks. should be close. dont forget that each side will take up half the total extra width, not the full amount. also triple check once you draw the lift block that it is orientated correctly, they can easily seem backwards or off when your just looking at them.

why the ea82 control arm? for the axles or do you want the extended wheelbase? just for info the steering isnt setup for the wider wheelbase so if you push everything outwards you will need an ea82 steering rack in it.

I dont know for sure but I would probably start with a mock up using the ea81 angles. primarily as I understand it your accounting for the angle of the top of the strut tower. do you drill 2 holes for the ae82 tops or do you put the 82 strut in the 81 top?

a motor is basically a big air pump, more air out means more air in. up to a certain point it will add power but mostly it just changes where the power is at. sort of like adjusting your timing can move where your power is felt. if you open it up too much its a power loss because the velocity of the exhaust matters as well. little motors like this generally don't pump enough gas out for a larger exhaust. open it up a bit and make sure its in good shape, and dont use crappy mufflers or cats, and you should be fine. mostly it depends on what you will feed it. if you want to put more fuel in or at a faster rate, you might benefit from a bit bigger pipe. gas mileage and stock applications probably wont matter much. in general header theory says that the header pipes should be equal length to allow pulses to combine seamlessly, which is much more efficient. our cars regularly go unequal length, but you might investigate doing an equal length Y pipe.

its not really on my radar from a prepping situation really. if a country sends an emp or nuke at us its not the same as a crashing society. We are still an active country of citizens, were just at war now. help will be on the way and it hopefully wont be a long time without support. while I wouldnt depend on our government management for my life I would think staying put and having a basic stockpile is your best bet. taking off to the wilderness or any unknown parts is pretty terrible unless where you are is actively going to get you killed. that said id probably go the spare parts route. has the advantage of easier protection in whatever style you pick, and also gives you a spare part that is a consumable anyway. make sure you have the essential survival gear first, namely food, water, friends. guns and cars range from necessary to frivolous depending on the situation but you can easily starve with 10k worth of gear so dont get hyped about it. best option imo is to have a predetermined location that many people are going to. plan on being able to get there on foot even if its a prolonged trip. even better is someplace slightly out of range of cars completely. if you dont already have a place to go, think seriously before you leave your local area.

just as a double check since you said you put it together from multiple places. you could be leaning out under boost. did you pull the motor as a whole or did you put it together? temps can go up when your comp is too high (if you used non turbo pistons), or if your turbo is running higher boost than normal. if you have played around with the compression or boost levels you may need a reflash or independent fuel system to add back in some fuel to cool it. also the injectors are rated for barely the amount of stock horsepower (at least over here) so you may think about upgrading them when the time comes. I seem to remember they were a standard style used by many cars so people used to just use stock ones from different cars that were rated higher. Ford Thunderbird? cant remember exactly but this kind of thing was discussed a long time ago when people were still modding out the 82's.

i cant find it, was it one of his posts?

double check your timing proceedure. you have to rotate the motor over during belt replacement.

sounds good, ill pm you my info. im in Vancouver so I can come pick them up or can probably just mail them cheap.

Can you put together a set of jets by themselves? I have everything mounted and hooked up but never really had the feeling that it was jetted correctly. Fuel mileage sucks and I have to keep the choke partially closed to get it to come off idle without stumbling. haven't checked what is in this one, got it new but from a forum member who said it was the right jets so I just put it on. could be my motor though, it has substance abuse issues.

i have an ea82 wagon, you can still find those. pretty sure legacys are different.