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djellum

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Everything posted by djellum

  1. djellum
    Id probably look for one that fits in the spare tire compartment (disclaimer on not knowing if there are regulations against this for safety in a head on, you will have to account for your own due diligence). short run for fittings and hoses, and keeps the gas out of the cabin. Id try for a dual system if you can. id also research which stations in your area will fill it, lots may say no.
  2. djellum
    get a gallon or so of metal prep from a supply store, might have to order online. its a clear liquid that stops the oxidation process and helps keep rust from coming back. you cant just throw it on like magic in heavy rust areas though. wire wheel or sand the rust till you cant see anymore of it, then use the metal prep on it just to make sure the small bits of oxidation in the surface pockets of the metal are taken care of, then paint over. that 3 step will save what you can, cut and weld replacements where things are too far gone. you can undercoat if you want, but I would do it as a 4th step, still sand, prep, and paint before applying it.
  3. djellum
    thats the first time I have heard in the post that the head gasket blew, did it overheat? maybe it warped the head if it did. I still say valve train more likely, but if the head gasket actually blew you should check to make sure its not warped.
  4. djellum
    I cant measure since I dont have one, but heres a link to a guy with a bright blue roll bar installed and the seats with it. should give you some idea of spacing (best pic is about halfway down). he doesnt have the headrests so if you want those you have to add about 6 inches of height, but I still think it will clear. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129380-subaru-brat-1985-restoration/
  5. djellum
    Hello, Im a certified welder that is attempting to start a business. Right now I have just been working off of craigslist but figured I would shamelessly plug here as well. Right now I just charge $25 an hour, and a flat $25 fee to drive to you if needed (within a reasonable distance). I can also work on a per job basis if it makes more sense that way. I have also helped teach some people how to weld (I worked at the local community college welding shop for a while after graduation) Currently just steel, but going to be getting a spool gun soon to do aluminum. Let me know what projects you may have, ill even show up to your house with all my equipment in a Subaru. David
  6. djellum
    what roll bar do you have? the normal one with the 2 front pillars and the support pillars that go to the wheel humps? the one we did for Shadabobs brat (you can see it in readers rides) fit a full sized spare under the jump seats, and it also has the roll bar, so Im pretty sure it will. I dont know where he got his roll bar though so check the pictures out.
  7. djellum
    couple of questions, just to make sure before you start tearing into it. 1) where is the vacuum canister on the distributor hooked up? its easy for them to get run to manifold if someone who is used to other motors works on them. if you set the timing right with the disty unhooked like you should, then hook it up to manifold it runs at like 30+ degrees. 2) have you checked the belts? 3) are you sure your on the number 1 piston? not trying to be rude but its possible your on the wrong side of the car. worth asking and checking if it saves time and money.
  8. djellum
    theres a gasket that normally seals the EGR so that the gas doesnt leak through when the EGR is closed. Id make sure to have that gasket or another one when you put the block plate on, or it may leak into the intake. other than that its all internal, you can block the tube from the head, or just hook it back up and let the block plate do the job. if you want to look it up, the acronym stands for exhaust gas recirculation.
  9. djellum
    the poping exhaust is called an after fire, its generally not a timing issue, though Im sure its related to your misfire. if you have a dead cylinder then it could allow fuel and air into the exhaust, which is then ignited and boom. try hooking up a vacuum gauge and running the car. you can look up how to read it and see if theres a vacuum leak or stuck valve or something that might be killing that cylinder. check the timing too, but I doubt it will lead to the problem. I just did a tune up on mine and it runs much better. Id probably try swapping wires or plugs (meaning change both wire and plug from #1 to #2) to see if the miss changes cylinders. you could do the same with the cap, rotate it 180 and redo the plug wire to get the firing order right and see if the miss moves. or you can just replace them and see, if its close to time anyway.
  10. djellum
    for the OP, you can use a DF series as well as a DG series, but be carefull which one you buy to make sure that the venturies are the same size as the DGV. the DF series is reversed and fits better if you have power steering. Noakort - the weber doesnt use all that crap, its one of the best reasons to do the swap. theres more than one write up on the site here, check in the repair manual section. to sum up a bit of it to answer your question... there are 3 fuel lines coming from the firewall - fuel line, return line, tank vent. the only one you must hook up is the fuel line, you can leave the others hanging loose, or use the other port on the weber or a 3 way fuel filter to hook up the return line as well. there is one vacuum line that will go to the distributor, one that will go to the heater controls, and thats pretty much it, the rest is gone. there may be another line or 2 for auxillary systems like AC, but it should be pretty obvious. plug any vacuum lines directly off the manifold, the hard metal lines that run under the manifold can just all be left unhooked. you will need an adapter, check out Jeszeks signiture a few posts above, he has a write up for a datsun adapter that works well. you will also need to fab up a linkage depending on what type of weber you get.
  11. djellum
    they dont make different cams, Delta Cams (a company) takes your cam, welds the lobes up larger, and regrinds to a different profile. Cams can gain you performance by keeping valves open longer or something, but more importantly they move the horsepower around. you can tell delta that you want power at highway cruise, low end, or any amount in between and they can set them up.
  12. djellum
    one side of the CV generally clicks when turning, and the other under straight acceleration, but that is only in "general". lots of times CVs will cause vibrations or other noises if they arent completely F'd. ours are just so bad so often that they fail big time and knock around. if you have one that is just a little out of whack it could make all kinds of smaller issues like your describing. not saying it is a CV for sure, but they can cause all kinds of wierd behavior.
  13. djellum
    ASV system has nothing to do with the carb, its a stand alone system. it doesnt hurt or help anything other than letting a little air into your exhaust for emissions. If you have to emission your car put it back the way you found it. If you already have them out and plan on machining them (and you dont care about emission or inspection), id have someone weld up the holes and then reinstall the spacers. Or maybe tap it for threads and plug it with a bolt. that way your exhaust is still stock and doesnt have clearance issues, and you can remove all of the rest of the ASV system. the quarter trick just fills the hose that comes out of the spacer, you can do way better than that if your pulling the whole thing out. if they are warped you may want to watch your heat and check your temp gauge. its always possible for a part to fail, but I doubt that warping is part of the natural life cycle of those, I bet they had to get hotter than you should let them.
  14. djellum
    most kits will come with tensioners and belts. search youtube for Miles Fox, he has videos of doing most stuff on these.
  15. djellum
    I get a shudder from my clutch sometimes when it slips, the speedo does what you describe at the same time. not a poping noise, more of a deep vibration but it does have some noise and vibrates by the firewall. its mostly solid but if I give it a little too much gas it will shudder and slip a bit. I have also had that feeling and noise come from a CV axle. Mine was under acceleration but maybe yours is worn different. if your 4wd check drivelines and ujoints.
  16. djellum
    I agree, check the fuel and timing. first thing to check is that your distributor is on ported vacuum. many common motors run on manifold vacuum, but subaru's aren't set up to do that. if someone put a little chevy philosophy into it then it might be run wrong. then make sure the rotor moves and springs back into place. Then basics, check for vacuum leaks, fuel pressure, etc
  17. djellum
    according to the Service manual the bearings, hub, and cv are supposed to be pressed together then installed as a unit, but most people dont actually do that. in the old repair manual on this site there was a post with pictures where someone used 2 claw hammers and the axle nut to make a puller to get it through. Mine went in easy, but I could see it being a pain. be carefull with the outer bearing, I dont know if they can get crooked from reefing on them, or if that may be your problem.
  18. djellum
    sounds like my clutch. have you checked your trans fluid? maybe theres a weak point in the system where its trying to shift and can't. do you think its motor related? vibration is a bit generic.
  19. djellum
    I believe pooparu does custom ones. message him and you can likely take pictures of what you have and he can recreate them.
  20. djellum
    as said earlier, do your work at the pink plugs under the dash. Id go to the junk yard and cut the pink plugs out of a junk one. then wire the dash side pink connector to the new deck directly and plug it in under the dash. that will isolate the front speakers and you shouldnt have to replace or cut any of the cars wires. if you are having a problem with the wires themselves as they go through the door, check the speaker itself first to make sure its hooked up. if its the wire itself then you can twist and tape a new wire to it and pull the old wire out stringing the new as it goes.
  21. djellum
    the mounts that hook to the rain gutters I would buy. if you can weld you can make the basket out of anything. my preference is getting cheap king sized bed frames on craigslist since they are good angle iron for nothing. weld a square, put some expanded metal of some sort and some cross braces and your done. if you don't mind them flat you could weld the upper bunk of a bunk bet onto the rails and call it a day. take a few more straps that way, but its easy. get a hold of Rerack. I don't know if there are any down there, but they sell new, used, and custom racks up here. might be worth it pay the shipping on some mounts and extras rather than buy new. they have a member on this site, but I cant remember his user name.
  22. djellum
    not that I have noticed, took mine out to make room. checked every button I could find, no change other than the door chime.
  23. djellum
    it should rattle when you shake it, and only allow air to flow 1 way when you blow into it.
  24. djellum
    black box with a tan plug next to the radio is probably the door dinger. unplug it and turn the key with the door open and you will see.
  25. djellum
    search out "common ground" on this site. older subs used a common speaker ground and if you don't account for it then it will give you fits with newer stereos. Not the cause of your power issue, but its something you want to research. you can run a new wire with an inline fuse, which is probably the best option. Popular option is to splice into the door chime or cig lighter, but running a wire or using the stock one is best.
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