djellum

EGR isnt essential, but it helps at cruising speed. if you are still having tuning issues I would leave it disconnected until you get them solved. the EGR can have issues that mess with the motor function, so see if you can get it dialed in with the EGR unhooked, then hook it up and see if theres change. make sure the big tube is plugged off though. id hook a vacuum gauge up to it and make sure it doesn't leak at the minimum. leaving that vacuum line unplugged basically shuts it off, unless its damaged on the inside and leaks. Ultimately you will probably want it active, but shutting it down is one less thing to worry about while finding other issues.

theres only 1 egr. its pathways are hard casted into the head and manifold so you cant add another one, or combine parts to get a second. not 100% familiar with the EA81, but its likely behind the carb on the passenger side. your probably thinking of the ASV valves which run to the exhaust from below, the EGR is built into the intake manifold.

its vacuum controlled, check to see if the vacuum hose in the engine compartment is hooked up. if not then you have to check the vacuum lines under the dash to see if ones leaky or not hooked up.

EGR has 2 bolts mounting it to the intake manifold, and a round diaphram with one big line and one small line coming off of it. plug the big line and hook the little vacuum nipple to the carb port. with the throttle linkage check and make sure its pulling at the right angle. the spring pulls in a straight line, but the linkage runs in a circle so if it doesnt pull from the right angle it can start to pull against the shaft rather than rotating around it.

places will likely sell jet kits but not individual jets. Seattle is a big place you might find a shop that specializes enough to get some. first you have to see which you have to see if you even need to change them. looks complete, though you would normally have the fuel inlet on the other side. simple to route the hose either way. check your fuel pressure before you install the reg, it might be right on.

take as much of the rust off as you can. the chem rust preventers are mainly for the rust you cant see. the surface of the metal is rough and porous even if you cant see it, and the liquid will get into the crevasses. ive seen people use it on rust like in the picture and it works ok, but id take as much off as you can first. id probably just wire wheel it so you arent removing any actual metal and use the POR. id give it a shot of actual paint over it as well, but im not fully informed on POR 15 so check out what the bottle says.

SJR puts out good lifts, and if you want to make sure all your angles are correct its probably the best way to go. that said you can make a lift fairly inexpensively if you have access to the metal. you have to drop all your running gear and make sure your struts are offset to the proper degree to not wear out tires. if your used to metal work and welding it shouldnt be too much of a trick, just make sure you account for strut angles. check in the 4wd section and search out the info on the site here.

the 15-20 minute thing is probably the fuel draining back into the tank. there is enough fuel in the bowl to start, but the lines are dry and need primed. mine does that as well. Mine doesnt diesel though. check your fuel pressure, webers are sensitive to pressure.

motor and trans mounts? the motor and trans can flex under load and change the angle. same with worn suspension parts. maybe its just flexing enough to stretch the joints a bit. wouldnt be bad to check while your digging that deep anyway.

if you check in the offroad section theres a fairly simple 6 lug conversion that will allow you to use standard toyota/nissan rims. I went pugs since it keeps all the stock offsets and such, and I like it that way.

when you put cleaners and addatives in the oil and gas (cant follow the link to what you added) it breaks up clogs and can cause them in other places as things move around. also people can put addatives in to mask noises and then they come back once you change out the fluids. the best thing to do is isolate the noise, use a mechanics stethoscope or just a dowel or screwdriver. new car it could be about anything, even something simple like a alternator or something can sound really bad if you dont follow the sound to its source. also recheck your oil, if its still dark you may want to seafoam the oil and rechange it again (double checking the weight). I changed the oil 3 times in the first month I had mine before it started staying clean. disclaimer, I only use sea foam, it has worked the best and hasn't caused me problems like other addatives have. it might make it better or worse depending on the problem, you should find the source of the noice first imo. I developed a tick the first time I foamed it, which went away after the third time I changed the oil, but it was a very minor noise on mine.

take a wooden stick or a long screwdriver and touch it to the oil pan, heads, valve covers, etc and put your ear to the other end. it will help you tell where exactly the noise is coming from. dont forget to check the water pump, alternator and other such that is on that side just to be sure. what did you do when you bought it? change the oil right away or anything. ive seen people use thicker oil to mask knocks while they sell a car, then once the person changes it the knock comes back (not trying to scare you, but anything you have done, even basic stuff is good to know).

check like above, and if it doesnt shake or wobble check to make sure the brake shoes arent rubbing and blow all the brake dust out of there with some air (close your eyes and dont breath it, its pretty horrible stuff)

if it doesnt try to start with starter fluid then id check into spark first.

id check timing and see if that cat is plugged or you plugged any other parts of your exhaust while messing with it. with that much changed recently theres not much that can be assumed, could be any of the 3 really.

backfires come out of the intake and afterfires come out of the exhaust. most of the time theres enough fuel to ignite in your exhaust, its what the catalytic converter takes care of, so if you have an exhaust leak thats likely the culprit of your after fire. there is (on my old carbed motor anyway) a couple of systems tied to the exhaust that can let air in. search on the site for ASV system, and antiafterfire valve (i dont know if you have one on an fuel injection system though). like said above, id check your ignition system out and spray for vacuum leaks.

need to know more info than that. no power can be caused by a lot of things, and doing 3500 rpm in top gear at 35 mph is unlikely to be caused by the secondaries.

whats the pressure and flow rating for the ford fuel pump? with non standard gear it might be out of spec.

breather cap on the passenger side the drivers side goes from the head to the PCV valve in the middle of the manifold, it just has an elbow in line somewhere with 2 full size pcv hoses and 1 small 1/4 inch or so hose nipple. the small hose goes to the air cleaner so it can pull filtered air if needed.

its internally routed, just block the big line that used to go to the antiafterfire valve, and hook the vac line to manifold vacuum.

what port on the carb is your vac advance hooked to?

This last week was the Weber finally. I had picked up a used weber DFV on Craigslist for $25. It came off of a volkswagen and I checked the venturi labels on the side to make sure it matched the DGV series. if anyone is looking at a Holly 5200 or DFV make sure you check because they have different ones depending on application. its stamped into the side of the carb on mine. the reason for the DFV is that the choke is on the other side so it doesnt tangle up with my power steering, as you will see in the pictures. I used a one piece datsun adaptor, and bought a rebuild kit for it. the idle circuit jets were the same size as the ones redline sends out, though my secondaries were 1 size higher. I will look at it eventually but its running pretty good right now. i installed a fuel pressure gauge inline so that I can better monitor problems. the linkage was made from hardware store parts, for about $7. the flat piece came with it, but I put a lamp shade nut that has a groove in it to guide the wire, and a standard cable stop out of a blister pack. the air cleaner assembly is different with the DFV as well, its diamond shaped. I used the small air cleaner to fit with the tall adaptor. runs very well now, much smoother. My gas mileage had dropped to about 20, and now its back up to 25.5. given time an tweeking im going to try to get it back up to 28ish for a first goal.

Figured I would finally start a thread to keep track of what I have done and what I have learned over the last 6 months or so. I was looking for something 4x4, 87 or older, easy to fix at home, and with good mileage to replace my truck. so naturally Subaru came to mind (and my first car was an 85 2wd hatch). So I scoured craigslist and this site and ended up buy this one off of the board here. 87 carbed GL Wagon. Ran good, I drove it home. had a few issues though, Might as well just list the ones I know about now. a few I only just found out about. Needed 2 front CV's After fired badly when you shifted Leaked oil Idle was a bit rough tires were horrible, had 3 different rim offsets, 3 different brands of tires, and one was all but using the belts for traction. heater core was going out tons of vacuum leaks and bad valves in the Hitachi lines Hitachi had worn throttle shafts and leaked fuel out of them bad vacuum advance can. Clutch is slipping sometimes in 4th and 5th, but only when its not under load. first things first, tune up and fixed the after fire. turned out to be an ASV baffle leak. I dont want the ASV system anyway so I removed the baffles and used large vacuum plugs to stop incoming air from getting in the exhaust. plugs, wires, oil change, etc. used up a couple cans of Seafoam. Next up was the tires, driving on the highway was likely to cause dental work. bought 4 Pugs, 2 with tires on them, and scored 2 full sets of lugs from a peugeot mechanic on Craigslist. had 2 bridgestones put on and had all 4 mounted and balanced. Next was pulling all the leaky junk off of the Hitachi. I plugged off the EGR and rerouted the PCV to get it off of the air box in prep for a weber swap in the future. Pulled and plugged everything except the bowl vent which got slightly restricted with a smaller hose. in spite of my best efforts to mess things up the car ran well, and peaked at 28.5 mpg highway. not terrible for a gutted hitachi with leaky throttle shafts. the white one is the bowl vent. the car did not run well while it was plugged or while It was fully open. I shoved a small vacuum line on it and left it about 3 ft long. seemed to be the proper restriction or close to it to maintain balance. at WCSS 14 Next was the front end. needed to do the CV's, so i just sprung for everything and did ball joints, bearings, CV's, Rotors, Calipers, Pads. Had the machine shop tank the spindles and grease and install the bearings. I did ball joints Cv's, and brakes. Only problem was the CV's. I didnt listen and bought local parts store ones. bad idea, ended up paying a shop to replace each one, but at least they have a 1 year warranty.

have you pulled the plugs at all? they will tell you something without buying a tester, at least about fuel mix and such. my moneys on your timing. First id check your vacuum advance hose and make sure its hooked up to the proper port. if its hooked up to manifold vacuum your running way over advanced at idle. just pull the hose off of the distibutor and plug it with your finger. if the idle goes down reroute it. didnt the EA81 have a dual canister distributor? if so you need to make sure each hose is plumbed correctly. if that checks out take off the dist cap and see if the rotor will move by hand an inch or so and spring back, if it wont move or spring back it may be stuck at full advance. At this point you need a timing light and useable marks on the flywheel. maybe someone here knows how to make more marks on that one that will work.

yah, just got my weber on myself. night and day. it costs $20 for the short filter and clips, thats really your best option. if your going to metal fab stuff just take the stock airbox and mod it to fit on the weber. theres a write up or 2 on it here somewhere.