djellum

need to know what carb and motor. the roll pin covers the air fuel mixture screw. if you have a stock Hitachi then its in the center bottom of the carb. the idle screw will be on the linkage on the passenger side of the carb. those are the only 2 adjustment screws (assuming you have a stock carb)

the "Strut" is the shock and spring in one, however theres a couple types of strut systems that use them. some have upper control arms and some don't. the ones that do will have upper and lower control arms that allow the spindle to move when you turn, and have springs and shocks together above it. ours look like a big L, theres a lower control arm and the strut hard mounts to the top of the spindle. the bracket up at the top of the strut has a bearing in it so that the whole strut can pivot allowing you to turn. just pull your wheel off and look, its obvious and easy to see. since the strut in our system is control arm, spring, and shock absorber it is much more important than some people give it credit for. when they get worn they can affect steering, tire wear, etc. I believe the sway bar your talking about is an XT6. XT guys used to use them because they were thicker. I dont know if normal XT ones are thicker than ours. I dont understand the beefier thing. theres no major weak spots there that need strength for normal driving, the CV's are the only thing that commonly breaks or would need strengthened. Jeszek's write up I believe used much more rugged forerunner struts in the back. i have seen spring changes in the front but not actual strut changes.

check your sway bar in the front. some people will take them off or they can just wear out. if its unhooked or worn then fixing it will help your body roll a lot. Its more likely your struts than anything else. the style of suspension you are probably thinking of has springs and arms with shocks attached to help out. the system you have the spring, shock, and upper a-arm are all one piece called a strut. Springs can wear out, but the gas part of the strut is more likely to be a problem. Id go new struts with low mile springs from a JY if you can find them. the spring swaps are from what I hear pretty rough on the ride. people generally do it so that they can haul more weight or really corner a lot. i would think stock gear with good parts would be a better happy medium. for tire size stay under 25 inches. you can fit that with no lift, fill nice and still is able to articulate and not rub. check the manufacturers site for the actual diameter of the tires. my bridgestones are slightly large for their size and are 24.9 inches. they fit very well and still noticeably lift the car.

what your talking about is a hood cowl, sort of. generally the hood is just shaped like that and theres no hood underneath the cowl. any of those type of systems that function will be sealed and generally have a vacuum actuator to allow air in from a baffle in the cowl under acceleration and from the normal fender tube when your foot isn't in it. Ram air is generally some facing forward type scoop that is supposed to "ram" the air in at speeds, but the true ram air systems are much like the cowl systems and are sealed. the cleaners that stick out and you can see them are generally called shakers. same deal, vacuum actuated to allow cold air in under load. then theres just the cleaner sticking out of the hood method. for the most part none of them do anything. they are old style cold air intakes, and over half of the ones you see aren't even functioning. just pick the look you like. the cleaner will be very far forward, so maybe turning the cowl around and have it go forward to the end of the hood and straight down. if you can keep it lower profile it may look good.

you absolutely want as perfect a finish on the heads surface as you can get. It doesnt even cost much at a machine shop, and little or nothing if you do it yourself with the glass method. skip that step and you will just have them back out again and again until you do it right.

I dont know what methods you used to do the belts, but there are multiple marks on the flywheel, some for doing timing and some for installing the belts. you may have used the wrong ones. theres a video on youtube and in the manual here on the site (by Milesfox I think?) nothing wrong with the EA82, but I wouldn't do any full rebuilds or major work on it if it were me. it costs about $650-$700 for all the conversion parts to the EJ (clutch, spacers, wire harness cut down by someone who knows what they are doing) so once you get over $1k for the work on the EA the EJ starts looking better and better. more reliable, easier to find parts, and double the horsepower. cheapest option is almost always to fix what you have.

i guess going back to the origional question, Id keep the EGR the way it is until later. the EGR is welded already and there is little effect of having it plugged off. eventually you may want to get a working one and its easy to install so get everything fixed and tuned up before you worry about it. I had mine disabled while I fixed a whole slew of issues. now that they are done I may see if I can hook it back up and see a difference. unhooked the canister. its tied into the airbox and hitachi in a way that makes it tough to get it fully functioning again. leaving it half hooked up where it doesnt vent back into the motor seemed to make it useless anyway. theres 4 lines, one is a vacuum actuator, one goes back into the carb, one is a tank vent and one (if I remember right) is a bowl vent. Webers dont have a bowl vent line or a hookup port to recycle the fumes so its basically just a canister on the tank vent and depending on how you hook it up, its either plugged or open to atmosphere anyway. run a PCV, as close to stock as you can, with a genuine Subaru pcv valve.

Heres a copy of the wiring diagram. Checked battery ground and its good. Checked the fuseable links, they are fine, the fuse on the left is the one in the cabin that I replaced so its good. Distributor spins but no spark. Leaves EGI relay, ignition, ECU, and grounds on ECU, and possibly the fuel relay but until I have spark im not going to worry about it. Lots of noise from the relay box, clicks and buzz for whatever that is worth. Looking for grounds on the ECU now, and I may just throw the $9 at a new EGI relay, though i know that usually is just wasting $9 I am kind of hopeful on it. the truck doesn't leak or have any rust and due to the sudden nature of it I really lean towards failed electrical component (though why it failed is another matter) heres the diagram if it helps anyone.

Hey, reaching out for help on a 97 Nissan pickup. figured you newer gen guys may have some general nsight on fixing an ECU power problem. I put a thread in the non sube section to keep the nissan clutter out of the section, but wanted some exposure. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136652-97-nissan-pickup-ecu-circuit-problem/ Thanks for any help or ideas you may have

Hey, 97 nissan pickup, KA24 4 cyl, Manual 4x4 so I drove my truck to a friends house, stopped at a gas station on the way back. turned off the truck at the pump and it dieseled for about 10 seconds and wont start. will crank fine but doesn't even attempt to fire up or even sputter. when you turned the key there was no check engine light that would normally come on to tell you that it is functioning. Had it towed home. checked this morning and the engine control fuse was blown. replaced it and now I sometimes get a check engine light when the key is on accessory and sometimes not. when I dont its the same as before, cranks with no attempt to start. when it comes on then I hear a clicking on the right side of the motor compartment and it cranks with no attempt to start and the check engine light blinks rapidly. there are some relays on that side where the clicking is, fuel pump relay for sure. Fuse hasnt blown again yet, but can a bad relay feed back into and blow the fuse? also can the fuel pump relay affect the power that gets to the ECU? speculation aside, what would be the prefered diagnosis method for this. I assumed that no check engine light was a sign of a power issue to the ECU, and the fuse supports that. what connections/relays/fuses are there that can rob an ECU of its power? I'll also check the grounds on the ECU. Any other help or ideas are appreciated

the problem isnt that intercoolers may or may not work. they always cool the charge down from what it was, which is always good, and they always lower boost pressure which is bad. the problem is that your turbo is putting out 7psi and the motor cant handle any more without some modding. the math on that site is done at 22psi boost, which greatly increases the need and effect of the intercooler. your running a third of the boost (and probably a third of the hp on a 22psi boosted motor) so you are receiving less benefit but still have the full restriction. I say do it, I had one set up for my XT that I was going to throw on. Just don't expect it to blow your socks off. you will see a cooler charge for more power and efficiency but likely more turbo lag as well. my guess is a wash, but if you decide to do anything else to the motor I would make sure that you do the intercooler first to help with detonation and to get the most effect out of other mods.

the Ecu should handle it no problem, theres a lot of old turbo information at XT6.net you can check out as well. will you notice the difference, probably not, but its one of the mods that makes everything else you do that much better. its really just compensating for the turbo heating the air so the car can operate more efficiently, not so that you get "cold" air into the intake. at the low 7psi boost you have its not a big deal anyway. Cold air intake is debatable. unless your actually piping it into a headlight socket or something its not really going to matter. Might be easier to pipe in or increase the flow a bit. when your tuning for max every degree counts, but a stock motor just wont care that the initial air charge is a few degrees cooler, if it even is while drawing from the motor compartment.

depends on what you mean by upgrade. if you mean repair or fix them back to stock smooth ride then just search around for a quality brand, or search the site for recommendations. if you want stiff suspension some people mod in toyota struts, and some people use Honda front springs in the rear, and some other car (mercury?) in the front to stiffen it up. I hear its pretty stiff though so expect some ride quality impact. I dont know exactly how they work from a ride height standpoint, but people do get small lift out of suspension changes just search the site for Honda springs or Toyota struts and you should be on the way to finding something out.

To run a PCV - Fresh air in the passenger side head, drivers side head running to the pcv valve. Most people put a T with a small hose between the drivers side and pcv to allow a vent and to decrease the strength of the vacuum pulling on the oil. use a genuine Subaru pcv valve. I was advised to do that and didnt listen. 2 weeks of of drinking 1 quart of oil a week and 2 pcv's later, I finally bought one and it improved dramatically. if you do decide to run without then you just need a breather cap on both heads. you can get them in any parts store. running without isn't a terribly good option, you will want to change your oil much more often, so the cost and hassle of changing the oil all the time is annoying. A better option if you are having issues with oil consumption that you cant get rid of is to put a catch can on there. its largely just and expansion chamber that will catch the oil and gunk that comes out of there and keep it out of the manifold, so I would try that before running without. you can even make one out of a jar or something to see if it is what you want before you purchase. race setups run pump to vent gases into the exhaust, so If I've always wondered about just hooking up the ASV system to the drivers head to pump gasses into the exhaust. I never did it since I didn't want to pump oil in there any more than my manifold, but if its just an offroader or something it might work. No idea how powerfull the ASV's pump though.

first step is to find out what carb you have. stock one is likely a hitachi and you can tell by the peanut shaped air cleaner box with all the lines and plastic valves running all over the top of the motor. it may also have a weber if it had carb problems and it was replaced, which will be a much simpler setup and look similar to a old v8 carb setup with no more than 2-3 hoses. pics would be best. either way if he said he rebuilt the carb I would start with the fuel system. The disclaimer that the carb may need adjusting likely means he rebuilt it and it didn't fix the problem. if its a stock setup theres a bunch of baffles and valves to check to find out what is going on, but first we need to know what carb.

having the proper fuel pressure will give the best performance and mileage, running less won't help anything, though it may not hurt either. basically the carb gets gas from the bowl, and the fuel pump feeds the bowl. they have to be in sync so that the bowl doesn't get too pressurized or starved for gas. as long as theres not too much pressure, and the pump can keep up with the driver it should be fine. mine bounces between 2.5 and 3 psi according to the cheap inline gauge I bought and installed on the fuel line. I would actually say 2psi is a little low, but not enough to warrant major repairs or changes. if you have a fuel return line you may want to restrict it a little and see if that gets the pressure up (watch your gauge and squeeze it with some pliers, if that works then engineer a restriction to get the proper pressure). id shoot for 3psi (average if your gauge bounces). if not run it as is.

you can buy pcv hose at a parts store for under $1 per foot. easiest way is to just cut the hose shorter and put it back on.

if you think the cap, rotor, and wires are worn then you definately need to check into that before you can tune real good. that could easily be causing the bobbing in the rpms. whats your timing set at? sounds pretty good. what you may find if your mixture is off a little is that it will pull good at low end, but run out of power at the top, or the other way around.

just so that its said, going over 2 inches makes a ton more work. drop the crossmember, trans, and rear. linkages, steering extensions, possibly hoses. just mentioning it so you don't read about the easy 2" and under lifts and think its similar, or that you can just add the extra easily. tbh a 90's loyale is a pretty common item. the only special thing about this one would be the lift, but its done wrong so I look at it as being less value than a stock one that nobody has messed up. Up to you ultimately, but if he's got that lift you should at least plan on having to replace the CV's he's running since they are probably being abused. look up aftermarket CV's on this site and see what you find lol. id look for one that hasnt been messed with and just do your own 2 inch. even buying the lifts its pretty cheap for the 2 inch.

you need to get the idle up to 750 before you can adjust the mixture. the idle screw will open the butterfly a bit, thats exactly what its supposed to do. set the mix back to 1 turn and use the idle screw to get the idle up. you should adjust the mixture a little and then compensate with the idle screw to keep it around 750. up or down 100-200 rpm and reset idle. the idle screw wont do much to your mileage by itself, since its only at idle and doesn't affect anything while your driving. it does affect the mixture it takes to run at idle, which throws off what it is while driving as well. up to 3k rpm or so your running on the idle circuit and the mixture you set it at.

even in the weber books and tuning guides they say you have to run it and see how it does to adjust jet sizes. theres no "right" jet just ballparks to get you close. you need to tune it as much as possible in its current condition to find out for sure. when people talk about "turns" they mean from seated or bottomed out, so 2 turns means two 360 degree turns from bottomed out. always count the turns you do so you can recreate or go back to where you started. first thing is just get it adjusted properly to run when warm. warm up the engine to operating temp and turn it off. from my weber book - back off the idle speed screw till it doesn't touch the throttle mechanism, then turn it back in till it barely does. then give 2 full turns to set the throttle speed. turn in the mixture screw until it bottoms out (be extremely gentle, just till it stops or you can mess up the little seat inside), then turn it back out 1 full turn. once its running at these settings adjust the idle speed to the recommended speed (750ish for our cars if you have a manual, little higher for auto). then adjust the mixture screw till it operates and the highest smoothest rpm. repeat as needed. dont get carried away, just get it running smooth and drive around the block to see. if your more than 2 turns out on the mix, or less than 1 turn out, then you may want to check your jet sizes. after you get it running right when warm you can work on the choke, rather pointless before that.

easiest way to tell if you have an lsd (besides the sticker) is to jack up the back end and spin a tire by hand. if the other side tire spins in the opposite direction then its open, spins int he same direction then its limited slip. always good to know, but unlikely to make a difference in your issue.

the choke is what keeps it running when its cold, tune the motor to be in spec when warm. if the choke wont work then adjust it, or just use your foot to run it for 30 seconds or so in the morning.

for 3 inches make sure they have dropped the crossmember, bearings in the drivelines, and rear diff. if not you will likely eat up CV's from too much angle. also if they did drop the engine/trans, then make sure all the linkages in the shifter work. other thing would be the camber in the front, the struts need to move 15 degrees or so to keep the wheels straight, so the spacer on top of the strut needs to be slightly angled.

I get a really loud clicking from my intermittent wiper relay under the dash. mines starting to go out, so it will click but not move the wiper. its very pronounced. kind of a long shot but figured id mention it.