djellum

easiest way is to just sign up at photobucket or another pic hosting site. it will have codes listed for the different methods of linking photos that you can just copy and paste (image code will just paste in the text here). that way you can have pics that you want to share on there and link wherever you feel like. it doesn't cost anything.

easiest way to check the choke is to disconnect the power wire to it, and use a zip tie or wire to open the top flap. then its not affecting anything. will have to use the pedal to keep it running cold, but once it warms up it should run right. if it still doesnt run right when its warm then its something else. you could check the fuel pressure, filters and whatnot. Id check the choke first though, it shouldnt raise up like that if its set right, it should hover at whatever speed you have set until you tap the pedal to release it.

looks like quite a bit of spatter on your welds. if your using CO2, try 75/25 on your next fill up (very small difference in cost). you wont go back. if you are using 75/25, shorten your stickout. im assuming your using hardwire

those cracks are common and not terribly problematic. they pretty much all have them, though some do get bad enough to ruin the head. have to watch for some of the inner passeges around the exhaust and there was something about the valve seal area where they can go too far but I cant remember exactly. might be worth your time to get a machine shop to check them out, or at least take a good picture and post it here so those that work on them often can see. all in all, if they dont leak id run them.

it doesnt engage the rear diff, in engages in the trans. he wouldnt notice it in 2wd since they can spin at whatever speed the car needs. once he engages the front and rear must spin the same or one will have to slip. limited slip wouldnt be any different than open, its still (generally) 1 tire that spins, just the traction tire instead of the slipping tire like an open. it could be a diff problem if he has one of the different gear ratio rears, but its unlikely (that said, might be worth checking the sticker on the rear...) my votes for tires. they are the biggest performance upgrade you have, at least go to a decent used tire shop and get some matching ones.

the order is passenger side rear -> Drivers side front -> Drivers side rear -> passenger side front. I double checked in my haynes. If you didnt bench bleed the master cylinder enough when you installed it there could easily be some air stuck. id double check the connections and wheel cylinders on all tires for leaks first, check the adjustment on the rear, then bleed everything in the above order. see where your at then

whats the deal with the last 2? I have both currently so it worries me a little if your correct. theres no milky oil on the dip stick or in the oil when I change it, why would it be concentrated all the way at the top of the fill tube? I add oil often and had just assumed since i turn the cap upside down on the air box that it had gotten rained on. the heater hasnt worked well in a while, at cruising its not very warm at all. when im into the pedal going up a hill or something it gets warm like it should, then back down once I let off. i checked the hoses with a temp gun and ones about 30 deg lower than the other one so I figured heater core.

no there doesn't always have to be oil getting out, depends where the HG is leaking. 4 general things with HG low compression in 1 or more cylinders (gasket leaking outside of coolant or water passages) water in the oil oil in the water system burning oil or water (water or oil getting into the combustion chamber) overheats are common when HG's go and the coolant is affected. You could do a compression test just cause its easy and takes little time, but if the numbers look good I wouldn't borrow trouble, start with the cooling system. I've driven lots of miles on bad head gaskets in other cars, as long as it was just a compression loss. they are not always catastrophic failures.

auto or manual? the autos are listed to get much lower mileage if you look at the site for the comission or whatever that tracks it. either way id say that 21 is low, and something could be tweeked or fixed to improve it. could be a thousand things though. check your odometer against the mile markers (or another more reliable means). I have lsightly bigger tires than stock so I have to add 10% to get an accurate reading.

its the extra weight that I was talking about, since he already has the bigger and heavier rims I doubted the tires would make a huge difference. the new tires are only a half inch in diameter more than his other ones, though they are a bit wider. didnt think there should be much of a change. going from stock to 215's he probably would see some change, but from 205's to 215 i doubt it will make a dent.

first things first, test or replace the radiator cap. they are wearable items that rarely get any attention. after that i would do the factory thermo. that bit me a couple of times recently till I got a factory one. if its not actually overheating I wouldnt think the radiator would be clogged enough to eye ball the difference. Id probably call a radiator shop, they can probably check it for you or flush it out cheap if you take it to them out of the car.

If I remeber correctly on your other post you already had the 15 inch rims on it. if so a little larger tire wont really make much difference. if your coming from stock 13's you may notice a few mpg loss, but not much I would think. I am running 195/75 14's and I was still getting 28mpg + highway with motor and carb problems.

are you on ported or manifold vacuum?

last car I had that did that was a timing issue. the vacuum advance was on the wrong port. easy check before digging too deep, make sure the timing is good and the vac advance is on ported and holds a vacuum. other than that I really cant advise. Im just getting into a weber myself. I have the same one as you that I just rebuilt and getting ready to put it on. check your jets, air correctors, etc and see what you have. the average ones are listed on the site but they dont always work exactly and need changed out. theres the idle circuit, then a progression circuit (couple holes just above the butterfly valve) that kick in extra fuel to transfer from idle to throttle, and the secondaries. check the settings on those would be my guess.

simple answer is that if you dont need the second belt use the pully that is on it. if you do need it or want it, just switch the pulley for the one on the old alt. belt systems are simple and not universal. just hook it up so that everything spins the way you want it. the more important thing that hasnt been mentioned is to make sure that whatver setup you use is properly in lined up from pulley to pulley. look from the top and if the belt has to go forward or backwards change the setup to make it straight.

you may want to check the fuel pressure. webers are sensetive to fuel pressure, and if its too far off it wont tune right. also 88 should be FI if it was a US car, so check to make sure it doesnt have a fuel injection pump in it. go for 3psi to 3.5 psi.

its a DFAV, which is a mirror image of the standard DGV, and should have a water choke (unless its been replaced). many of the DF series had different venturis than the DGV so check on the side of the carb (or the veturis themselves if they are stamped somewhere). if the venturis are different sizes from the DGV then all the jet settings and such you have probably already looked up are wrong. if the venturis are marked 26 and 27 in the circles on the side of the carb it should run just like a dgv but reversed in appearance. if it does still have the water choke you will of course need to hook it up to the cooling system, and or adjust it accordingly. the electric choke you loosen and twist to adjust it, idk about the water choke.

those are good numbers, I wouldnt worry about it unless there is other signs of problems. MPG numbers are vary a lot depending on the person. 29-30 mpg highway is very good for one of these cars. im sure some people have gotten more than that at times, but its going to take work, money, or attention to driving style to achieve it regularly. mpg is very dependant on conditions. getting gas at different pumps, wind, road condition, elevation, etc all play a part. someone may have a perfect storm in their area and get 32 highway regularly, but we dont live there. if you get a change from winter tires check the diameter, it will throw off your odometer a little and you have to math it out to get a real reading. Its something you should do anyway, just reset the trip counter when you pass a mile marker and see where it is at the next one. the % of difference will tell you how far off your mileage is. if its 25 average or close to 30 highway Id say its normal and other than watching your driving style or getting a tune up theres nothing wrong. 22 is a little low, something might be off, but it still could easily just be conditions. make sure your averageing multiple tanks from the same station so your readings are accurate

what you want are strut spring compressors. they are a little different from normal coil spring ones. your local parts store (if its a chain like Napa or O'rielys) will have them for rent. you put a deposit down and as long as you bring them back you usually don't get charged for the rent. i wouldn't mess with springs without the proper compressor. Safety on springs is a very real concern and can easily bite you. even if safety wasn't an issue it makes things so much easier you wont want to do it another way. if you can find springs then I would replace them. springs are wearable items but are rarely replaced so with 200k on it you would probably notice a difference. I wouldn't say move heaven and earth to find them though, they don't really wear completely out, but you get a better ride with ones that are fresher.

Hey, prep'n for a Weber swap in the next week or so, so I put a fuel pressure gauge inline to the carburetor just to see where it sits. it pulses quickly between a little above 2psi and 3 psi. question 1) is the pulsing a sign of fuel system problems? It is a cheap gauge so I wouldnt rule out some slight inaccuracy. question 2) is the spike to 3 psi what I should consider the fuel pressure? or the low spot? Im guessing that since it pulses very fast it wont make a difference since the bowl will still have fuel, and im not going over the max pressure required. question 3) is there anything I can do to make this more stable. My initial plan was to run a return line filter, so I can restrict the return a bit to try to get the pressure up to 3.5ish. I can also run dead ended since the pressure isnt over the max. I just got the Weber Haynes manual so ill check it out tonight, any advice would help though.

if there are mounting screws on the outside of the door, you can try cutting a piece of sheet metal to fit. drill the holes to mount it with, then paint on bedliner or even liquid latex or something. would look professional, if not stock. unsure how those mount on, from the inside or outside though.

double check your air pressures, and make sure the sizes are appropriate and you shouldnt have problems. Like said above there are much larger hits to mileage than the tires (unless you talking 33's or something). cant see much more than 1-2 mpg from the tires alone, and I doubt you will see any change. if you have a carbed car, retuning it might help a bit, but generally its driving style, fuel addatives, and extra use of 4wd rather than tires.

thanks, doesnt sound too complicated. I have a carb car so no ecu,should just make it a little easier. Ill give it a shot once I tackle the problem

yes even a plain old write up would be nice. I get the gist of it, but if you can point out the major bolts and clips it would help a huge amount.

thanks for the pics, ill hit the JY up when I get some time.