djellum

with the rate of failure on aftermarket axles I would have the shop do it. I recently did both the fronts myself, 4 axles later and I have 1 good one. the other side doesnt clunk but does vibrate a lot. In the end I had the shop do it ($200, still have to do the other side). that way if the axle is bad they eat the cost for replacing it. I look at it as $30 a month for axle insurance for the next year. for good quality axles it will cost $100ish per side anyway (MWE axle and new center piece assembly from Subaru). that means your paying just over $100 for labor and warranty. pretty good price. btw, dont use a torch to heat up suspension bolts. heating and cooling metal like can easily cause cracks and fatigue to the metal. it can also mess up case hardening, and other treatments.

45 minutes to remove, in an EA82 wagon? Most of the write ups I see are many hours. what method do you use to remove and reinstall? from a shop time perspective I could drive to canada and have you do it cheaper than the local shop lol.

I was under the impression that the EA82's didnt have a valve, the core was just part of the overall cooling system and the plastic box around the core took care of how much heat gets in. far from an expert but that is what I have read. i may try something similar on mine, but I will need to go tear apart a junk yard car first to see where stuff is connected. tbh if im gonna replace it Id reather just pull the dash. its a carb car so no computer to worry about, shouldnt be ultra difficult. its one of those repairs that last thousands of miles, so time spent now is not wasted I guess. my goal is to find a hatchback soon if I can, so Id like to get it good enough to last a few months. if I decide to keep it ill tear it apart. it also goes to vent heat when im on the throttle and teh fan switch relay is going out so it needs a general heating system overhall. btw, where is the heater control relay? i replaced the switch but no difference. only works on 3 and 4 (being able to let it run on 1 might help keep the temp up as well).

yah i already tried flushing both directions. I might try that macs cleaner to break it loose and flush it again. I just wanted someting to break up the plugs a bit so i could flush it proper.

I checked the little lever on the side of the heater core box. its hooked to the dash temp selector, and it is tight and moves freely when you move the temp select. the temp selector can be used, its just that fully hot isn't very hot. it will keep the windows defrosted and cut the chill, but it wont really "heat" the car. i know putting anything in there is risky, I just need it to be a temp fix. the heat does work though, so I don't have to do it. its just not heating well.

Old cadies had a straight 8. If your moving the radiator anyway maybe removing the spare tire rack might yield enough room for one. no idea what there measurements are, but if your looking for something origional and not a V8... I know you can make that ford 6 run almost like a tractor, it can make major torque if you build it right. I like the fords so that is my choice of the available motors. My roomates bronco with a 460 got eaten alive by a shortbed with a 300-6 in a sand race multiple times.

well I have tried all that I can in hopes that my heater core in my 87 EA82 wagon was good, but Im sure now that it is bad. got a laser temp gauge and it shows 192 deg on the thermo houseing, 100ish on the pipe going to the water pump. one heater hose is at 140 and 1 is at 78. I dont have the time and place to change the heater core right now. Im working in the yard so if I take the seats and dash out they either get soaked or get eaten by my roomates dogs. What is the best chem treatment I can use to get some extra life out of it. I will be able to replace it in the next few months, but I need to drive it till then. Also if theres a member around the portland/vancouer area who has done these before and wants some extra Christmas money I can pay. Not shop prices but I can pay a reasonable wage.

thanks AK, ill keep that in mind. ill check the adjustments first though.

cant really tell from your post, but if its a flakey white buildup on the plugs it can be ash from contaminated fuel or burning fuel additives. have you or do you put anything in your fuel? Like i said, cant really tell if you just meant white plugs from running lean, or if there was actually some powdery ash on them.

I'll check the rears on my day off tomorrow. It may or may not be the problem, but I havent had the drums off so I should check anyway. if it fixes it great, if not ill get a MC.

I did rear passenger, front driver, rear drivers, and front passengers in that order. it was listed in my haynes that way. i put a full resevoir through each line (not running below half full before filling). then I repeated the process, then I let them gravity bleed for a bit. I had to do it by myself so I figured that I just didnt get all the air out, so i told the shop to bleed them with the pressure machine they have, but they said the MC was bad. I doubt its the hill holder, since it was in the same condition before I changed the brakes and this is a new issue. Unless the hill holder was damaged by the process. Most google searches show up with an MC problem, or air in the line. both possibilities, but I think ill check those rear brakes. its the cheapest solution and should probably be done anyway since i havent had the drums off since I got it.

the cracks in the head are common but not always harmless. if they go deep enough they can allow water from a coolant passage to get into the exhaust port. Lost a turbo XT to this very thing. You should be able to drop the exhaust and see, but it depends on how bad its leaking. Mine did it for quite a while before I had any real issues from it. it still ran and I traded it off to someone who put stop leak in it and ran it for a while themselves (not recommended). something to at least look into.

Ill check those rears first from the sound of it. tbh it really doesnt feel like a MC to me, which is why I had them look at it. I can lock them up no problem, but its way down by the floor when I do. you can pump them up a little and then its more normal, but they actually work fine if you just accept that they will almost be on the floor. I looked at the pic of a rebuild kit and its dead simple, however its the same price lol. hopefully the back brakes can be adjusted.

South of the equator the wind blows the opposite direction so you need to reverse the deflector...

sorry, in a hurry when i typed it. 87 Gl EA82. thanks thats a couple of questions answered. cant imagine how auto or manual would matter so I will go ahead and order one unless someone chimes in.

Hey, so my brakes are spongy and wont bleed out correctly. shop checked it out while it was there for something else and said the master cylindar. pricing them on Rock auto, but is there any actual difference in the ones for auto's and manuals, or with the hill holder (which I have but its not hooked up). i have power brakes but I dont know if they made manual brake models or if they are all power. they also have rebuild kits for master cylindars (and strangely they dont specify type), which I havent done before but it seems pretty straight forward. anyone advise rebuiding over buying?

id plug it and run it. also worth it to get some 13's for the trip probably, then its barely noticeable without power steering and you get better mileage. I have 4 13 inch rims that you can have if you want to take them out of my driveway. has 2 decent tires on them even. $50 for 2 mounted someplace and you will likely save that much in gas.

neat trick for cutting something round like a pipe or tube (or spacer) is get a wide band zip tie. secure it tightly and it will make a straight edge all the way around about 75% of the tube (just have to rotate the clasp around when you get to that side). hacksaw, dremel, whatever up to the line. you can even just use it as a guide for grinding to make sure you stay even.

welding sheet with a flux core wire is a nasty job. of course it can be done, and is done all the time, but once you try hardwire with 75/25 you wont ever want to go back. if its possible to run gas you will definately see a huge difference in quality, speed, and enjoyment using hardwire. i picked up a nice lincoln with gas bottle and reg for $150 on craigslist. the subframe that hooks to the skid plate is a box tube, which is plenty strong enough to take solid hits (though I agree that 1/4 is over doing it and adding weight to boot). if it were me in that situation i would just make it out of mulitple pieces with the joints at the bends and weld the angles together. grinding galvanized is best, but if you want a quick solution to fumes, just get a couple of hose clamps and small bar of metal about an inch long with tabs on each end at 90 making a C. clamp one end to the nozzle of your gun and use the other to hose clamp a shop vac tube to pull in the fumes. a little bending and it should take car of 90% of the gasses. you may have to plug it off a bit or poke some holes in the tube or it could pull to much of the sheilding gas. doesnt take the place of a respirator, but it is the same system most weld shops will use, just much smaller. for the rock sliders, (assuming you wanted the tube ones most trucks use)look up subrame connectors. subrame connectors are used on high horsepower cars to strenghten them from body twist. they ussually bolt and then weld into the frame rail on the bottom of a unibody car, though your sliders would be in a slightly different place. i would do one connecter at the frame rail underneath, and one connecter at that little metal tab that runs along the body under the door, then hook the slider tube to the underside of it. that way you have 2 points of contact to the body (essentially making it a square tube for strength. if you dont have a second point of contact then the lever action could stress welds and maybe even the frame rail. food for research anyway.

did you unhook the battery before you installed the pump? if not Id check the actual fuse block for blown fuses. id probably check that anyway before pulling out the meter, even if you unhooked the battery. theres also may be a relay that is designed to shut off the motor if the car flips to prevent gas from leaking out. Might be worth checking if the fuses and ignition check out.

I have 2 sizes on mine, one pair is 6 inch wide, the other set is 5.5 inches wide. mine are 14's and yours look like 15s so idk if its similar. the 5.5's hit 4 pegs on the front hub, and they hit the center ring of the brake drum in the back. both are just barely and they torque down fine. I have them on the back right now. the 6 inch wide ones have no clearance issues.

try to find a cheap weber or holly 5200 from the Junkyard. theres a list on this site of older fords that had them. you can buy or make an adaptor and throw it on easier than setting up a spfi. im guessing that would be the cheapest option, and the weber is much simpler, though i still maintain that without knowing what is actually wrong you may be dissapointed with either.

try wrapping some sturdy cloth around the shaft of it a few times and securing the loose end or have someone use a lever to hold it. doesnt always work since the shaft is so smooth, but if you can get something to bind when it turns you may be able to pop it loose.

SPFI or replacing the carb with a weber are very common and both good ways to go. I can assure you that it will run without the charcoal canister, but you have to know a bit about the individual systems you are bypassing to make it work. if you have access to SPFI or webers its a good way to go, as long as your sure its the carb.

id start with the thermostat. if you just want to test you can pull it out and put it in a pot of boiling water on the stove. if it doesnt open then thats the culprit. if it does open, probably a clog or something preventting the flow.