djellum

for mine its actual vacuum advance. I hooked up the vac line to manifold to bring it to full advance, dialed in the distributor to 22 deg just so it was on a mark somewhere. pulled the line and checked again and it was at -2ish. plug the vac line back in and back up to 25. normally its hooked to ported of course, but I wanted to see how much it had.

87 carbed ea82. I have tried 2. first was already on the car, but was leaking. car did fine but I found one that didn't leak at the JY, so I replaced it (another carbed ea82, same dist). checked again and it was the same. I must admit though, the car hasn't run right since I replaced the leaky one, I've thought about putting the damn thing back on. I know its just a tuning thing, but it just refuses to dial in right. I have other problems too, but both cans showed 25 degrees increase when hooked to manifold vac. might be the dist itself, I haven't dug into it yet. either way I still say get the one you have rebuilt, the settings are all over the place for different cars, and you will spend less that way.

im not really opposed to anything that will get me on the road, I just dont like "patches" on some things. I have already had an axle come out of its hub socket at 60 mph. the wheel didnt come off even though the axle nut and cone washer assembly was rattling in the hubcap, so I figure that took at least 3 of my 9 right there. this one is completely done though. its not clicking, its thumping like a base drum anytime I give it over 25% throttle in any gear, and vibrates and makes noise even at speed. the other side seems fine, but hard to tell with the drivers side acting up so badly. anyways, ill take a look at the ones I have and see what is what. ill just attempt to gather 4 oem ones to rebuild over time, and replace as needed.

it really cant suck "excess" air. its an air pump, it fills, it empties, it fills. my guess would be the sound is the air getting blocked off and you hear the "whistle" of it trying to suck air through a smaller opening. whether or not its tied to the heater (i doubt it) is another matter. I would expect its choke related more than anything else. I guess it could also be sucking in a huge gulp of air through the vaccuum system and killing it, but it seems unlikely to get that much air all at once through that tiny vacuum line. pull off the air cleaner and see if there is anything that can randomly block the air or is loose. if you cover up the opening with your hand I bet you will hear the same noise and it will die. make sure the choke and/or any bafles and such are secure and tight with little play. if ones loose maybe its sucking closed. you can also disconnect the vacuum line for the heater and see if it still does it. doesnt matter to the engine if its vent or defrost.

I wouldnt be too worried using the sealed ones, but there is more to the stresses they see than curb weight, and the wheels can easily spin over 1k in first, and also pretty easy in 2nd or 3rd, though they are no where near 9800. are those sealed ones actual automotive ratings? machinery operates very differently so I could easily see where the machinery bearing would fit but not be set up for automotive. tbh I never really had any issues with normal greased bearings. they looked decent when I pulled them so I just replaced them with normal equipment.

standard vented rotors, so no worries there. they seem to stop well and they are silent, so I like them so far as well.

theres a half dozen different styles of vacuum advances, and there are hundreds more that are different tweeks of the same style. yes the arm length matters, as well as the speed they advance. you would just have to send it in to be recalibrated to work, which is the same as sending in your old one to have it rebuilt. subarus have a super high amount of vaccuum advance over other motors that I can think of. the ones I have go up 25 degrees or so, while a standard "350" advace is 10-15 deg. I wouldnt try random ones for multiple reasons, but even if it "fit" its unlikely to give you the right amount of advance. I know theres a place in portland that rebuilds them for 25ish bucks. probably someone in any major city somewhere that will do the same. you can also rebuild it yourself, it mainly just takes patience to make sure it doesnt leak.

box said "precision" for the brand. who knows for sure though. supposed to be new, but the one I got after returning the bad one said remanufactured, but then had the same part number on the box, so idk. ill give fixmysuby a call. we have a place in Vancouver called NW import specialist. been doing buisness with them a long time and always happy with them. the owner is an official sub tech, worked on my friends cars and mine, XT's, SVX's, Brats, anything.

I went with normal non sealed ones. I actually had a machine shop set them up. it was only $30 a side. They pressed out the old ones, hot tanked the housing, greased them with high temp grease, pressed them in, and greased and installed the seals. out the door for $70 I didnt feel was a bad deal at all. i did search out some ceramic pads, got the wagners at O'rielys for $29. my pugs looked horrible in the front from the crap pads that were on it. the project took longer than expected due to random BS, but its in now. Ball joints are good, the hubs dont clunk anymore, lots of noised went away. 2 standing problems are a bad CV from the box making horrible clunks when i drive, and the brakes are still a little mushy. CV is stopping me from driving any signifigant miles. its in another thread though, ill probably end up just having to pay to have it replaced at the shop. i dont know what brand they use, but I know people who had them done there and they hold. brakes work, I can lock them up, but its a little low to the floor and one pump brings them up to where I expect they should be. I had to bleed them myself, so I probably jsut didnt get all the air out. Any specific tricks for this system? I followed the order in the haynes and didnt run the master cyl dry, but so some air could have gotten pulled back in after a squirt. I did a normal gravity bleed after as well just in case, but who knows. i do have a hill holder, but its not hooked up. I dont know if that changes the bleed proceedure. I should just hook it up, I have no idea why the person before me unhooked it. other than leaks I would think that if it wasnt working properly it just wouldnt hold pressure and you would roll, which is pretty much where I am at now.

I was going to go with MWE's from Shawn, but I couldnt get organized right on my end to place the big order and wait for it to be shipped out. ended up getting everything from a local place. everything was fine, cost was right, I asked the store manager and he said they chose the brand of axles in response to problems like I have heard from you guys, so i tried them. one was bad and wouldnt even fit in, this one is clunking bad straight out of the gate. one of the ones I had looked very different than the others, and even driving 10k miles with a completely severed boot, its wasnt clunking when I took it out. was just going to check and see if it was a subaru one, if so I was going to reboot it and put it back in (was going to rebuild it anyway since the boot was the only noticeable problem). I need my car back on the road so I will probably have to pull the trigger and take it in to have the local sub shop do the axles so at least theres some kind of warranty for a bit. I have to work in my driveway and I just dont have the time and space to be changing axles all the time. in a month I will have a 100 mile a day commute and i need the sub in shape for that. i just wondered how to tell, Id like to aquire some subaru ones over the course and have a full set on hand. the one I took out doesnt have a smooth DOJ cup, its ribbed (apparently for the cars pleasure). didnt know if that was a sign.

Sjr sells wheel adaptors. Most people get peugeot rims from the 80's, they made 14 and 15 inch rims on 4x140 pattern

Hey, just recently did the front end on my 87 gl, and had 2 bad out of the box CV's. one wouldnt fit when installing it, and after getting them all together one is starting to clunk and vibrate after about 50 miles. people say to get the origional ones rebuilt, but how do you tell the diff? is there a stamp somewhere?

you wont find a vacuum can except maybe a junk yard (I got lucky and found a good one). there are places that rebuild them. no idea what is around your area, but look for a place that rebuilds or custom builds distributors. the cost at the local place was $25 to have it rebuilt.

3 things to check. might be slightly different since its an EA81. 1) look at the last picture. there are 2 plugged vacuum ports in the front and 1 plugged port at the top (metering port I think is what its called). just to the left under the choke but above the idle screw there may be a 3rd vacuum port. check and make sure its plugged if its there. 2) vacuum advance should be hooked to ported vacuum. if you dont have it hooked to one of the 2 vacuum ports in picture 4, its probably hooked up to manifold vacuum and you dont want that. the system isnt set up like a small block where that is possible without some other changes in the disty. 3) in the third picture it looks like you have the bowl vent blocked off with a bolt. this will F up the whole situation. I think the upper port in the rear should be blocked off and the large hose with the bolt in it should go to the charcoal canister or be restricted a little but not plugged. the upper port by the fuel lines was part of the system that included the TVV and others. it looks like you may have routed it to the charcoal canister. this can cause multiple levels of problems since the bowl vent cant be restricted and your sucking air and possibly fuel into the metering port from the canister. question - is your charcoal canister still hooked up fully? im guessing not since the bowl vent isnt going to it. either fully pull it, or fully hook it up, dont go halfway or it wont work right. heres a link to a post with some decent pictures. you can see how the fuel line and return line run in the back, and that both the other ports on the back and top are part of the system you removed and need to be plugged. the large line in the front that goes by the alternator is the bowl vent. the bowl vent regulates the pressure in your carburetor so that there is not a vacuum or high pressure situation. it needs to be open and restricted enough not to cause problems either direction. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118017

you can get a cheap aftermarket oil gauge and it will work better. a lot of people talk trash about the stock gauges accuracy. theres a couple different kinds of gauges (mechanical, electronic, etc), make sure your sender and whatever unit you use to read it are the same type.

both are the speedo gear (at least likely on the sketchy speedo). theres a small plastic gear in your transmission that hooks to the speedo with a cable. its probably worn,slipping, or has fluid and oil in it which is messing up your speedo. if you take it to a speedo shop they will calibrate with the larger tires and put a new speedo gear in to make your spedometer accurate. might fix 2 birds. that said you really have to go waaaayyy larger before it really matters. my tires are 3 inches bigger diameter and it puts my speedo maybe 5 miles off at 55.

idk, cost of rust repair probaly wont be higher than the cost of replacing. and a head gasket job isnt terrible either. due to both, I could easily see selling it as is to replace with a different one in better shape, but your always gonna have some problem with whatever you buy. We throw away too much as it is, fix it if you like it. dont get hung up on prices and car values, if you like the car and it can be fixed for less than it costs to replace with something you like better, then keep it imo.

dont automatically assume its the carb. Id change those intake gaskets before doing anything else. diagnose the problem and fix, throwing on another system will just make it harder to diagnose later. vacuum gauge, fuel pressure, timing, spark, etc. whatever it takes to narrow down the problem before you swap in.

I generally just go to one of the self car washes and use their degreaser/wash combo. if you have a power washer id just do it at home, but if you dont it is only $5-$10. spray your engine down with degreaser, let it sit for a few, power wash off. generally have to repeat a time or 2 so just put 2 bucks in to start it and then put 2 more in once the degrease has sat

I run mine just plugged completely, though im running an EA82. mine runs a bit rich, but that is better than lean. still manage 28 mpg and runs pretty smooth. Heres the way I run it. 3 inlets from the firewall - fuel line like normal, fuel return like normal, tank vent line left open and unhooked. air line in back of carb - plugged both smaller air lines in top front of carb - plugged vacuum line on baseplate - Plugged vacuum line tucked in by throttle linkage - plugged vacuum line on center front passenger side of carb - plugged vacuum line on center front drivers side of carb - vacuum advance bowl vent line - used a smaller diameter hose and left the hose a few feet long to help restrict the bowl vent just a little. I dont run the canister or air box anymore, since im staging up for a weber. imo the only real important thing to check other than vacuum leaks is the bowl vent. it has to be at least in the ballpark or it just wont run right. best option is orificing them all, but if the bowl vent is right you can plug the rest of them without too much worry. you will get bad gas mileage either way you go, rich or lean. proper mixture means clean efficient and powerfull. anytime its off it means more pedal and less efficiency. the problem with lean is combustion temperature and spark knock. if its making a lot of noise under load I would probably not drive it much. if the engine is pretty fresh its not going to kill it immediately, but if something in the motor is worn or weak it might hurt it. the only pics I have are off of an EA82, which should be similar but the direction of things are sometimes reversed. dont want to confuse it more.

I dont really pay attention to shift rpms, it depends on what im trying to do. i generally dont take it much beyond 3k-4k just because its not really needed. occationally on an on ramp or something i might kick it in the pants just because. I generally cruise around 2800 in 5th on my drive cause of the speed limits in oregon. for any major hill (on the freeway) I stick it in 4th and run 3k-3.5k. the motors will likely lug down a bit better than your honda, but theres no reason to. motors like rpms in most cases.

might check the vacuum advance if it acts like a timing issue at slightly off throttle.

id check the spark plugs before pulling the exhaust down. if your burning water the plugs will show it (In fact legend has it that fuel mileage goes way up if you get the right amount in it), if they do I would work from that angle instead of dropping the exhaust. if your burning water the the plugs indicate it, shoot for the exhaust crack. not trying to insult, but make sure your using the PSI side of the gauge. with them all even and it running good it would be best to make sure. most people just replace the shortblock with a lower mileage one that looks good. bores and the rotating assembly are not ussually problematic in these motors, people generally just do the heads, and replace the shortblock if needed.

the click is probably the starter solenoid. it sits on top of the starter and extends and contracts the arm that has the gear. in a older car the voltage regulators would go out and cause problems, yours will be in the alternator but it might be a problem. since you already bypassed and hot wired the starter and it didnt work, id pull the starter and have it tested.

pretty sure hes talking about the ball joint. the control arm is the long metal piece that goes from under the motor to the bottom of the bearing assembly. where the bearing assembly goes into it is a flexible joint called a ball joint. to get the inner joint off of the transmission you have to find a way to relieve the compression between the inner and outer joints. this is done by moving the bearing assembly out a little bit. you can undo the control arm bolts, ball joints, struts, whatever flavor you want but you have to stretch the axle enough that you can get it off. since you have the struts off at the very top you aren't allowing the assembly to swing far enough out to get it apart. if it were me i would hook the strut back up and undo the lower connection where the control arm hooks in under the motor, or undo the link between the strut and spindle and remove the strut completely. the wedge and pry method is great if you have a feeling for the process, but generally the basic way is to just remove all that is in the way and reinstall. more bolts but ussually less headaches.