djellum

next time you pass a mile marker check how far the odometer goes till the next one. ill be your odometer is running fast. generally this happens with smaller tires, but thats a lot of difference and it doesnt get much smaller than 13's 50 seems off.

check the butterfly valve in the bottom. it might be getting stuck or jammed and not closing all the way.

normal hitachi's require all the plumbing to work perfect, but will run well without them. a feedback will likely need all its plumbing, or at least the associated sensors and computer, to run at all. the ea81 hitachi's are different than the ea82, though i dont know what years and what specifics other than the ea81's were slightly smaller cfm. someone with more expierience with the feedbacks will chime in im sure. the 2 screws are the ones your looking at. center is the air fuel and the one on the linkage is the idle. in general until your choke dissenges when the motor is warm the actual tuning cant be done. theres probably a 3rd screw which is your choke adjustment. on a more basic setup i would dissengage the vacuum to the choke while doing the actual adjustment, then hook it up and tune it after, but with the feedback I have no idea what it might be doing for the choke.

air is a popular choice. Id only blow air through the line though, take off the brass block so nothing gets blown into it.

disclaimer, I dont know for certain. I havent done a stereo on a hatch before. that said, I doubt it will work. hatches and brats were continued past 84 while the other models changed to the EA82's. this means that they are basically the same as the older versions of the DL, GL, etc. I would go older if I were you, try to find one for an 83 or something where its in the same generation as yours. that said subaru used a common ground speaker system which wont work with new stereos. Id recommend using the plug only for the power/ground/acc and running new wires for speakers. theres write ups about the issue, and again I have only done it on my 87, not your hatch, but something to look out for and research.

Hey, I have a used DFAV (with electric choke, so its now a DFEV). going to give a go at rebuilding it and install it on my EA82 Wagon. going to pick up the standard rebuild kit on Monday, but I wanted to check into the jets while its apart. from what I have heard the venturis on the DFV are smaller than the DGV, but they come in all sizes. on the side of the carb itself its stamped as 26 on one tube and 27 on the other (venturi sizes?), and I have heard that that is similar to the normal DGV series. Should I jet this the same as a standard DGV? the sites full of DGV info but not much on the DFV. Assuming since its a clone then if the ventri's are similar then the jets would be as well? Any help or ideas are appreciated. Edit - im new to rebuilding carbs, so any information is helpful, such as a standard method of calculating things like jet sizes, or the place to research it.

So I have the following. (for an 87 GL wagon with D/R) New CV's with new hardware (cone washer and spring washer) New bearings and seals New ball Joints New brakes (calipers, rotors) Any recommendations on type or brand of brake pads? I believe the OE replacement are ceramic, but the store I bought the gear from only had semi-metallic so I opted to wait and check into it. Any recommendations on wheel grease? the only stuff I have ever used was generic wheel grease that my dad used (was probably older than me), but I generally see white or yellow grease in the pics on the site. just checking if there is a special type that is used. Any recommends on brake fluid? I have a users manual and Im sure its in there, but while im at work asking anyway ill throw it on the list. I have a hill holder but it doesnt work and is unhooked. Ideally I would like to fix it or bypass it completely so its not interfering, havent checked into that yet. Anything else you can think of that I didnt mention, feel free to chime in.

idk if I would be worried, but its a sign of a problem. id start by doing a normal check and tune. if your choke was messed up before then the carb may be tuned to make up for it. now that it is operating differently then its out of tune. also with a manual now you have to watch that its not being bumped or pushed in, which can cause problems. just pay attention to it for a while and see if you can figure out what causes it, then start from there.

checked a few temps with a cheap laser temp sensor. I drove to work on the highway, then checked when I got out and parked, so it would have raised a little bit from cruising temp. 187 deg at the top of the thermostat housing. 147 degree on the metal pipe going into the water pump from the radiator. block and heads all read 160 pretty much even. heater hoses were 140 (this is with the vent on, highest temp setting, but no fan). no fans on at all, even sitting and idling. anyone have an idea of what I should be seeing? I see in the above post that someone is getting 190 to the heater, which is much better than I am getting. same temp before and after the core would say to me that its flowing fairly well. I will probably just have to replace the core and see.

for an actual plan of attack I would start with the basics. check your ignition wire and direct battery wire. run a new ground wire to the chassis somewhere so you know for sure your not trying to ground on a speaker wire or something (this alone has been the problem with many cars). theres 2 ground wires in a common ground system, one for the speakers and one for the stereo. running a new one will keep you from hooking to a weak speaker setup or running circular if you install new speaker grounds. check the amps power and ground to make sure the inline fuse is in good shape, ground is good, etc. then check your speakers. i dont know what you have hooked to the stereo and what is hooked to the amp, but make sure none are running on common ground. I would just bypass all the stock speaker wires and run new ones. if all of this checks out start on the electrical system. it could jsut be weak battery or alternator and once the high idle shuts off its not outputting enough. also could be bad grounds in the engine bay. My bet is that its either a common ground issue, faulty ground or power wire, or generaly weak electrical system.

might want to check at a scuba or paintball shop. if your just storing compressed atmospheric they have small 50cc or even smaller tanks that store at fairly high pressures (my paintball tanks run 4500 psi). expensive new, but I have seen used setups go for $50, but that was with fill stations. just for a small tank it might be cheaper.

Id just try bypassing the amp and see if it works. ive never really ran amps except for subs or in real elaborate systems with cross overs and the full works put into them. an amp will draw quite a bit of power as such things go, id also look into removing the amp from the power drain and see if it improves.

subaru used a common ground system for the speakers, new radios dont like that. search on the site, since I dont know if brats used it since they would only have 2 speakers. either way i would check the wireing on your stereo, or voltage output of your alternator. if its cold and you start turning on accessories like the heater, wipers, lights, then it might be drawing too much and the stereo cant get enough. if both stereos did it I would suspect the cars wireing or electrical system.

doubt its clutch unless its something besides normal wear. mine slips cause its worn, but that raised the rpm. if your clutch is doing it something is loose or binding. I still say fuel, or spark or something making the motor chug. 50% of my gauge is 12 volts, if your under (or even at) that then your not putting out near enough juice. even with a full load you should be at 12v and not below. check your alternator (and ground cables for good measure)

Motor Rad I think was the brand name. no idea what the other one was, ive never really paid attention to quality, even the cheap ones always seemed to work fine. the broken one managed to hook the fail stop on one side and bind up. might have just been a little crooked to begin with or something. my gauge seems correct, everything relating to the temp acts the same. when the car is hot enough to kick on the electric fan, then the heat blows hot, engine runs well, etc. when it is dead cold, then the fan never comes on, the heater blows cold, and it runs like you didnt let it warm up. right now it sticks around 20%-30% up the gauge while driving, and the heater blows warm, but not really hot at that temp. At 50% is where the fan kicks on, and then the heater is behaving like a heater on high should. Like I said, not 100% satisfied yet, but its in a working useable condition so I can move on to some more important things for right now. thanks for all the help, guess in the end theres just not many things besides a thermo that can cause this.

turns out it was the thermostat, new one was stuck wide open (wasnt like that when I put it in, but whatever). doing much better, though still wish it would get a little warmer when im on the road. guess it may just be low ambient temp.

I'll try the stant. I think im just gonna get another thermostat and put it in. I really cant think of anything else that could cause it. if it doesnt fix it I guess I will just have to put some cardboard over the radiator or something, but I would like to avoid that type of "fix"

the years are right, but make sure you verify what axles it takes. I dont know off hand but they had different axles for some cars so the splines may be different. I think it was either autos, or turbos or something that were the odd part out. you can search it out on the site here. I think the last hub I priced at a yard was around $20.

for you I would make sure to replace tires in pairs or all 4, and keep matching pairs on each axle (2 matching tires on the front, and 2 matching on the rear). It wont matter at all unless you engage 4wd, which you shouldnt do unless your on mud/grass/gravel/snow anyway. you shouldnt engage 4wd on surfaces that arent soft or flexible or things could bind up.

yah should be installed right, done a bunch of them. nothing says I cant have a moment though. ill prob try a rad cap and replace the thermo again just in case. ill try a non fail open one.

we used hypotherms at the college I worked at I believe. they were a pretty good unit, compact and effective. im assuming you want it for cutting alluminum and just to cut down on gas costs and time? We used saws and other devices for thick stuff but you can do most normal jobs with them no problem. check into an air dryer if the units dont have one, they help a lot for longevity of parts. the shop air had a lot of moisture in it. also make sure you understand non tranferring and transferring before you buy. theres a major difference in operation on specific meterials, though most steels, stainless, and alluminum wont care. basically one is like an arc welder and needs the piece to be conductive, and one is like a torch and puts out its cutting flame regardless. CNC plasma has some other needs besides the hardware. the scanning and software that came stock with the one I used sucked big time. It was very complicated to work with, and you had to go in and manually fix things every time you imported a drawing. look into a control box that will accept a standard format like a cad format or solidwerks or something. you have to factor in the software cost of that, but its worth it. i would think that the small hypotherms would be small for that, but it all depends on what thickness your cutting. one of the nice things about plasmas is you can get torch ends that just rest on the piece to autogap. this way you can make templates so if your just wanting to cut the SJR into strut tops you can likely just make a stencil and cut way down on time and energy without buying equipment.

afterfires out the tailpipe are from unburnt fuel and air mixing in the exhaust. for me it was a rich mixture and leaky asv's letting air into the exhaust. you can also get the air from an exhaust leak. theres generally some unburnt fuel in the exhaust but a messed up mixture can cause more unburnt fuel and air in the exhaust. normally you need an air source to really get a good one though. Id still start with carb, though I would verify a strong spark first since its easy. starts fine, idles, but once you hit the gas it floods. also when turning it off theres extra fuel in the lines and you get a gasp of air from the tail or intake and pop. fits pretty well on the surface. i would check for exhaust leaks or bad ASV's when you get a chance, since you described some fancy fire spewing exhaust. if its an actual backfire out of the carb then maybe a timing jump? Id still start with fuel though.

yah the heater core is a target, but I cant see where that would cause the operating temp to be cold. and when the op temp gets higher the heater works fine. I want to get the operating temp issue fixed first, so I can trouble shoot the rest. Ill prob pick up a radiator cap on the way home just in case. heres a question for those that know this system better than I... is there a bypass where a blocked core could cause the water to circulate in the block faster than normal and keep it colder? Any suggestions on T stat? I used a fail open when i replaced it, but i guess if its a fail open and its broken from the start it might cause an issue. I can order a subaru dealer part if needed as well, but I cant see where theres any specific difference, 192 degrees i just as hot in Japan as it is here.

so i've never dealt with motor that was too cold before, but it really seems like my car is just never getting to op temp. My car during the summer months would run around 20% up the gauge past the C. at that temp the heater just starts to put out luke warm air. the fan was never on, not while driving or idling. occasionally when I got into heavy traffic it would climb up to 50% or so and then the fan would come on and it would bounce between 40%-50%. at this time the heater worked as it should. the car also ran smoother at this point since it was fully warmed up. the other day I fixed the vacuum advance and readjusted the timing and carb (back down to 8 deg, and running very well). now when I'm on the freeway it doesn't even get fully past the C. Ive flushed the system and put 50/50 in, (though I can't see a clog causing it to underheat), replace the thermostat (I used a 192 deg, and the one I took out was a 192 deg). everything flows fine, unless its just replacing a bad thermostat with a "bad out of the box" one i cant think of anything else. the temps on the gauge reflect the heat of the air coming out of the heater, the fan works fine and comes on if I ever hit operating temp, but not before. don't think its a sender issue or something.

was the pop from the tailpipe? if your car is flooding then you could get stalls and afterfires. id start with fuel pressure and spark, check return lines and tank vents if you have them, then start on the carb. does she know enough about cars that theres not a missfire or something that she didn't notice before this started?