djellum

might want to double check that the brakes are working on that side, that might be buildup that normally would get scuffed off during braking. or it could just be from a mud puddle as you were parking it. is that a crack in the caliper I see at the bottom?

I would file the shelf off of the bad cone washer and use that instead. I am firmly in the camp of using new cone washers instead of trying to fix bad ones, but it sounds like your replaceing the hub anyway and just trying to get an extra week out of what you have. file the ridge off and put it back together, see if you can get it tight enough to hold, then take it easy till you can get to PnP this week. use the new hardware with a good hub as soon as you can. This isnt a very "safe" option, but we have all had to limp cars. take your time and go slow, check it often, etc, to make sure there are no issues along the way.

mainly check the frame rails along the bottom for rust. also door frames, around windows, etc. floor pans and side sheet metal are a fairly easy fix if you have access to a welder and/or someone who knows body work. if the rust is bad on the areas mentioned (or just bad in general), combined with the auto trans, I would probably look around for a decent body with a manual. take the best pieces of each and make a solid car out of it.

it depends on what you want it for. if you want an old subaru of these years lifted then it will work just fine. If you just want a dependable car to get you to a kayaking spot then plan a little for where you want to spend. the newer generation (any legacy, outback, forester,etc) will have more power, better handling, etc. they will have more reliable parts and easier to get replacements. cant lift them as much, but they dont require modifications just to get decent tires under them. the older generation like your loyale is more of a work of love. they will be cheaper and easier to fix, though in some cases you will likely have to fix it more often. parts are still fairly available but will eventually start to dwindle. Many of the mods that people do to loyales is simply putting newer stuff on them, so unless the loyale has appeal simply for what it is or the adventure of building one, then you may likely be better off in a newer generation. for myself, I own an 87 GL, cause I want to. Id rather build and convert this wagon to be exactly what I want then buy something off the shelf.

ive heard webers are finicky on pressure, might want to check the incoming fuel pressure just in case. at least get a reading before you start changing settings so you know where your at.

if you want it to look stock then probably have to go through subaru or use one of the stock buttons from a junk yard car in a different slot. you may try looking for a vacuum valve. you could mount it somewhere and just turn on or off the vacuum as you see fit.

overheating is one of the achilles heals so don't tempt it. electric fan or clutch, if yours is broken just take whatever is on the donor car. they make separate trans coolers so you don't have to have one built in. don't think it will be cost effective, but if you can score one cheap it might work. I dont think plastic is a good option. it doesn't dissipate heat like metal does and is not as easily repairable. for a very little cost difference I would go with metal.

really check that exhaust manifold. they say it leaks oil onto it, but make sure its not coming from the exhaust manifold or the head gasket. valve cover or something isnt too big of deal, but if oil is coming out from the exhaust manifold its bad, and same for the head gasket. either way the body and interior looks pretty good, as long as rust is minimal and it runs well, seems like a decent deal.

5 spd high low is in an earlier version of your car. decent idea since its technically original equipment so everything will bolt on, problem is its a crap ton to bolt on. the tunnel where the trans sits is different between some auto's and manuals which can cause problems. you would need drivelines, pedal assembly, etc. do some searching on the board here, it has been done many times. I would suggest finding a whole donor car or a nice car with a blown motor and put your motor in. lots of people swap in the newer generation of engine and trans, thats documented on this site as well.

Inner or outer failure? How much did you drop the motor and trans crossmember when you lifted it? Does it only do it when your turning or even in a straight line? Are you sure your getting the right axles? double check with the parts store and make sure your not getting EA81 or legacy axles.

one by the fuel pump and one in the motor compartment.

id rotate the tires first. if it changes a lot when you do that, check tire balance, air, etc. brakes wouldnt be a bad thing to check, mine has some sticky calipers and other issues. when they act up it makes the wheel shimmy.

throwout bearing? check your clutch cable adjustment, it may just not be letting out fully. ive heard them make noise when that happens. if working on the starter changed it, I would guess thats still the source.

seems simple, but did you check the mechanical connections underneath? if they have come loose or off of the actual shift lever it wouldnt change gears no mater where its at.

cut the small sides off of the bottom of the weber air cleaner assembly. cut out the stock one so that it clears the hole in the weber one. epoxy, bolt, or weld on the bottom. if your keeping the stock air box, it will have all the mounting hardware on the sides as well. this means you wont even need sturdy work, just get it to seal decent and bolt it in.

probably the starter solenoid. its the piece that engages the flywheel and activates the starter once its hooked up. it will be on the side of the starter, you can service or replace them separately, but generally the whole starter gets replaced. first check your connections and battery though. could just be a juice problem.

I picked up an extra battery cable and a clamp on terminal. gonna hook it up with the standard battery to block, and another wire going to body ground. have a few ground straps to clean up but they aren't bad. Idk about whats normal but my ground now hooks in just under the heater hoses, the rubber insulator is actually pinned in by them. ill hook up the ground but if it doesn't fix it completely Ill just replace the alt.

Hey, start from scratch just in case, 87 carbed GL wagon, 5 spd dual range. so last night all of a sudden I started getting dimming headlights at idle, and the gauge dropped to about 10 volts unless i revved the motor up to about 1500. today I swapped batteries with my truck, same condition, running with the battery unhooked the volts jumped around between 14 and 8 all erratically, but it did run. took the alt in and had it checked, passed with flying colors. its never given me a second of trouble with the charging system till all of a sudden last night. Its always pegged 14v all day. added a small ground strap with some extra wire I had, and it seemed to improve so Im gonna check my grounds. the main battery ground goes down to the bell housing, but I cant really get at it without removing the heater hoses. if this was any of the other cars I have found this problem in I would just run a good sized auxiliary ground to the body near the battery and replace and clean some of the aux straps, but I don't know if there are other hookups at the connection under the hoses that I need to worry about. Ideally I would just get a new clamp and run a new second ground to the body and call it a day. Can grounds just go faulty all of a sudden like that? Ive seen charging systems get weak from bad grounds, but it was a stepped process. test or not I'm still suspicious of the alternator, but I want to exhaust options before dropping $70.

should check and see what brake pads the same suppliers are discontinuing. might be that the fully loaded ones will have high quality pads if thats what the distributor has in stock to get rid of.

they make manual choke kits for around $10. they are universal, though I would double check to make sure, nothings ever truly universal. building one isnt that difficult eather. basically you just hook an arm or pin to act as a lever and put a cable on it. you can use the choke thats on it and just make an arm to actuate it manually. for some clarification though, when at operating temp your choke should be fully open. I cant tell from your post if you are saying that you think it being fully opened is causeing it, or if you wired it open to fix it. just in case, when cold the top butterfly should be mostly closed (choked off), and when at operating temp it should be fully open. If you just need it drivable, get some wire and actually tie the top butterfly open so it cant close. you will need to manually hold the rpms at 1500 for a minute with the pedal, then it should be warm enough to idle on its own to op temp.

depends more on who remanned it. the rebuild kits or seals probably all cost the same or close so I can see where someone could get cores in of whatever quality and rebuild them for about the same price. unless you can see who rebuilt it, or what rebuild kit they used, its pretty much a crapshoot. i actually like the idea of someone who doesnt sell a reman at a higher price than the kit + labor simply because its got a name. most people have good expieriences with Rock Auto, I would give it a try. Iin fact I likely will, since I have a sticky caliper and I like the price.

I had the same thing happen for about 15 minutes after I powerwashed the engine bay. the were all staying on while I was driving, though the car drove just fine. as i was going down the road they got dimmer and dimmer and finally shut off. now they work as normal. for me it was probably just some water causeing a connection somewhere that eventually dried out or blew out from the wind. check your connections, make sure they are not loose and are clean. it may just be a back connect somewhere.

simple intake manifold with a weber carb bolt pattern so we dont need run adapters and the carb stays low. eliminating the water passage to the carb would also be good. even a well designed weber adapter would likely sell well if you have enough other accessory products. EGR block off plate (or an EGRless manifold version) ASV delete plates for the heads Adaptor to remove a hill holder Air cleaner that fits a weber but uses the stock air filter so its slimer and has PCV and tank vent ports without all the other junk. bonus points for being sealed and having a snorkel fitting to add onto. toolbox or storage bin (or other gadgetry) that mounts in the spare tire mount under the hood. many people run full size spares so that space is free. EA82 timing covers. the plastic ones are easily broken and many people run without them so they can inspect their belts. Maybe a thin gauge metal one with viewing ports and pull aways to allow easy belt changing while still covering the gears and whatnot while driving. All of the above are simple things. the block off plates are just a shape and 2 drilled holes, but they offer a good place to put a logo, would be cheap, and are comfort items. same with the air cleaner, great place for a big ol logo. Honestly I think a good flowing intake with a weber pattern would sell quite well if you could get the price down enough. for the more extensive stuff... extendable arms or longer ones for the rear so you can move the tire back away from the door when you lift them. Swap stuff like EJ swap trans adapters, transmission mounts if its possible to get an adapter setup so its more bolt on, etc. Roof racks with mounts usual - headers (im really interested in one for my EA82 btw), bumpers and such. If your going to run with exhaust I would make a header and cat back that uses a flange style cat. that way it will convert the exhaust to either accept a bolt in cat, or you can make a delete pipe with a flange to fit it. Having a cat isnt a huge deal, and you can get cheap ones that do the job and just bolt in if you have the flange style. if you can find a distributor then maybe carry some of the things that people who mod cars run. find a cost effective but decent manual oil pressure gauge, volt meter, fuel pressure reg, etc. even if its just making even on that stuff it adds bulk so people will buy from you since they know it will fit their car without having to ask questions. If you focus on quality you wont have to keep a huge stock, just go for cost effective and well made. im sure theres a ton of stuff people want, im just trying to think of what you can sell multiple of with a single design, and what nobody else has. With the flange cat system, you can have a cat back setup, or jsut leave the pipe longer and have a cat delete version. the only difference is 15 inches of pipe. Maybe work out a deal on a cat that works well and sell it as well. With some clean work even the "bling" like the air cleaner or timing cover should sell fairly well. Sell what they want, not what they need so to speak. with items like the air cleaner. when we swap out carbs we need to buy one somewhere. make one that looks nice and has the proper fittings for a weber setup and why not buy yours instead of the normal one. all you have to do for a hitachi or carter is change the cutout in the bottom, now you have multiple options to sell. its just a couple of pieces of sheet metal with lips in the end. anyways, throwing ideas at the wall. Im no buisnessman, but it seems like there has always been a ton of people waiting with money in hand for anything that will set their car apart. people will fabricate braided hoses for their stock whatever simply because they cant find ones that fit if they dont own a honda.

they dont drill out to 5 lug, they drill out to 6. your main choices are 14 or 15 inch pug rums that fit the stock 4 bolt, drilling out the hubs for 6x140 (nissan, toyota, etc), or swapping out the suspension for newer 5 bolt subaru pattern. if you like the pug rims they are the easiest since they are bolt on, drilling out to 6 lug is pretty simple if you dont already have rims. if you have 5 bolt rims you want to use, then you will need to fab in suspension from a newer sub. never done it so I dont know how much of it will just bolt in.

Just removing the rear window would accomplish more than the dryer hose. I would think that long of tube with that diameter would not work well with a weak forced air system. removing the window and/or installing a slider would let you build up the heat in the back. would mean less efficient heating, but so would cutting the back out. at least if its not enough you just have to put the window back and start over.