djellum

your confusing the EGR and PCV systems from the sound of it. for the EGR system - you can by pass it completely if you wish, its non essential, but also removal is non beneficial. It allows some exhaust gases to enter the manifold at certain loads. its the round canister on the back of your intake manifold (I believe, since its there on an EA82). it has a small vacuum line hooked to manifold vacuum to run the diaphram, and a large hose going to the hourglass (anti-afterfire vavle). the actual EGR system is internal to the heads and manifold, the anti afterfire valve is just a noice reducer, remove it and plug the line (dont forget to plug the other hoses from the anti afterfire valve as well). If you unhook the small vacuum line the EGR will shut down and not function, which is ok as well if your just testing it out. the PCV system vents gases from the crank case. the routing is fresh air into the top of the passenger side head (from the air cleaner, or just a breather cap you can get at any parts store). then the drivers side head has a hose that goes to the actual valve which is in the center back of the manifold. inline on the hose that works the valve needs to have a T fitting that has the 2 large holes for the hoses, and 1 reduced size hole to allow a bit of fresh air into the system if it needs it. the T doesnt hook to any other hoses, just puts a small hole in the line to keep the suction down (like a hole in a straw, otherwise it has too much suction and picks up oil). you can run a small line from the T to the air cleaner or something to filter the air, but dont connect it to any vacuum or other part of the sytem, jsut fresh air

if it were me i would cut the center section of the back wall out, but leave a foot or so on either side intact, then weld or bolt a support to the upper corners of the window frame. shouldnt be difficult and will add a bit of support. Id probably just cut it straight and put those plastic door edge guards on the ends to keep them from being sharp. grind down the bottom till its smooth. have you thought about picking up a wagon? I dont know how partial you are to the brat, but you can get a wagon with a blown gasket or something cheap, and just throw your engine in it. all the comforts and room, no modding to do it. for the time being until you get it cut or whatever, get a small propane heater burner. just put it on a coleman bottle, shouldn't take much.

theres a black cover on the front of the motor that covers all of that. take it off and see whats what. a lot of people dont put them back on so they can see, its not critical. the pump itself might be fine, if its leaking from the seal you may just be able to put a new gasket on it. the pumps are pretty notable for failure so most people would just throw the $30 at a new one while they have it apart. if the water is coming out of the case or the neck where the pulley is the pump is dead.

If you have a little money, I'd do a 110v adapter and a second battery. its not terribly expensive and its very convenient. the second battery isnt needed, but its nice since you can leave stuff on and not worry about whether your car will start. that way you have access to generic accessories like a small ceramic heater, tools, lights, etc. Id do a wired in version with its own fuse, but they make cig lighter adaptors as well. I think a heater would be too much for the cig lighter though.

how big is the fuel line? sounds like its too large and the pump cant keep up with the flow. If I remember right the weber likes around 3 psi, but you need to flow enough as well. some people instal the regulator on the tank return instead of fuel line. sounds backwards, but supposedly it regulates the pressure that way, without altering the flow when the carb is asking for it. you can google it and see the arguments back and forth. That may be a problem, if you regulate the incoming fuel down, then it gets past the restriction and the carb and tank dont have enough resistance to keep up the psi. test the pressure just after the pump just to make sure, as well as around your regulator. see if you can see any variance. I would try moving the regulator to the downstream of the carb, see if it works better. if that doesnt do anything try the old pump that you took out and see if it changes. many weber setups dont run return lines, you may look into running without one. just make sure you fully set it up for that. the fuel pump may or may not like the dead end system. personally I think the regulator might be the problem.

vehicle inspections will check for them. even on cars that dont have to emision, you can still fail a vehicle inspection for no cat. Many cars can pass the actual emmision test without one, but if they look under your car you will fail automatically. for the most part I think its cost. ramming a broom handle through what you have is cheaper and easier than crafting a new piece.

the next dollar spent should be on test equipment. the only thing replacing all that stuff does is create more variables and cost money. follow what the test equipment says and isolate the problem. there is no ECU, so any wiring issues would likely be relays, actual shorts , or bad connections. start with the basics, fuel and spark. check timing with a light. check with a fuel pressure gauge to see what pressure the weber is getting and if its consistent. what fuel pump did you replace it with? the fuel injected ones put out different pressure. Webers run weird if given out of spec fuel pressure. check your lines, you may have blocked a return line or something when installing the webber. also check the tank vent tube and/or gas cap. also all the stock stuff should be completely removed when a weber is installed, may have created a vacuum leak. hook up a vacuum gauge and see what it tells you. they can diagnose all kind of things like valve train problems and vacuum leaks. compression test just in case, physically check for spark. then when it acts up run the battery of tests again and see what changes. double check everything you have done, grounds on electrical, carb bolts tight, etc. EGR's, any of the leftover carb valves can all give you issues. test the components, don't replace them until you find one that is for sure broken.

the next dollar spent should be on test equipment. the only thing replacing all that stuff does is create more variables and cost money. follow what the test equipment says and isolate the problem. there is no ECU, so any wiring issues would likely be relays, actual shorts , or bad connections. start with the basics, fuel and spark. check timing with a light. check with a fuel pressure gauge to see what pressure the weber is getting and if its consistent. what fuel pump did you replace it with? the fuel injected ones put out different pressure. Webers run weird if given out of spec fuel pressure. check your lines, you may have blocked a return line or something when installing the webber. also check the tank vent tube and/or gas cap. also all the stock stuff should be completely removed when a weber is installed, may have created a vacuum leak. hook up a vacuum gauge and see what it tells you. they can diagnose all kind of things like valve train problems and vacuum leaks. compression test just in case, physically check for spark. then when it acts up run the battery of tests again and see what changes. double check everything you have done, grounds on electrical, carb bolts tight, etc. EGR's, any of the leftover carb valves can all give you issues. test the components, don't replace them until you find one that is for sure broken.

you can find most of that stuff in the section called the ultimate subaru repair manual. its just above this forum. also check the guys in the off road forum. lifts and wheel mods are common for that crowd. btw - Peugeot made 14 and 15 inch wheels with the stock lug pattern for your car. both alloys and steel. if your just looking for something to get out of 13's and dont already have wheels id check into them. would be much less work.

the fuzz is from fumes. it will leak fumes and you won't be able to tell its leaking except that corrosion and on the under of the hood maybe. if any of the crust is new or it has more than just the crud that was there when you got it, your battery could be leaking fumes. Not saying it is, but keep an eye on it. just being new doesnt mean it wont do it. not the end of the world, but be careful with sparks around the leaky ones. thats the reason your not supposed to hook the jumper cable ground to the battery.

the main variables are where your getting your engine and trans to swap. if you have an entire donor car with all the nuts, bolts, and hardware its probably doable with lots of work. if you are going to search out the parts piecemeal I would go another route. pedals, cables, brackets, and mounts are going to be a pain unless you already have them all and can see where they go. also the car tunnel where the trans goes are different. they may not look like it, but they sometimes need to be modified. there are plenty of people who have done it here, search around. also state what exactly you have for a car, and what motor and trans you want to use. cant answer specifics without that info.

take the clamp off the battery and dribble a little coke (the soda) on the terminal and clamp. It will get rid of that fuzzy acid. wash it well after and don't get it all over the place. then hook it back up and smear a small amount of grease on the clamp and connection and it wont fuzz up like that again. that battery crust is bad stuff, it means your battery is leaking acid vapor. technically you should replace it, though most of us will keep using it till it finally dies. Optima's are really nice, they don't have acid in them so they won't do things like that. if you treat them good and don't run them dead leaving the lights on they last an incredible amount of time.

in simple terms your ignition basically acts like a big toggle switch as far as the starter is concerned. if you watch a movie where they hotwire a car, they pull the wires out the bottom of the dash and bypass the ignition, essentially taking the switch out of the equation. you can do the same thing in the motor compartment. there are probably 50 videos on youtube showing you how to do it. Cant stress this enough though. Make sure the care is not in gear or you could severly hurt yourself. there may be sparks as well so watch it with the oil around the compartment. im not saying this to scare you, but I wouldnt try that until you can turn that motor by hand.

were they talking about the bearing on the drive line? Ive heard that it is in a different spot for the different length drivelines.

make sure the car is out of gear. if you left it in gear you wont be able to turn it over. dont invent problems like a siezed motor, just follow the evidence. the starter might actually be bound which would cause it to not turn over by hand, but it could be something else entirely. the click you hear may be the arm in the start going into place. the starter solinoid is on the starter and its job is to extend the gear out to touch the flywheel. they can often make a pronounced click, but it shouldnt be a click click click. it should be click once when engaging and once more when you let off the key. theres should be a small wire going to it, you can actuate it by giving it juice to see if it works. check the connections and condition of the large power wire going to the starter. they can corrode on the inside with the same fuzz that collects on your battery so they dont always look bad. you should be able to roll back a litte of the outer wrap and see if its discolored and corroded. if so I'd replace it. if you do replace it cut the sheath off and take a look, you may be suprised at what you find. start with the basics, make sure the motor spins, check your cables, try a known good battery (batteries can cause wierd problems even when they dont test out as bad). if this doesnt work run a remote start setup and bypass the ignition. remote starts are cheap and if the ignition is a problem it may show that. test the other stuff first though.

our injectors are a standard style, though i cant remember the name of them. you should be able to search it out, then pick ones that are rated higher. we share with a lot of cars, fords and nissans of various years for sure. i believe I have heard that ford thunderbirds shared with us, so you might be able to order them or get some from a junk yard and rebuild. check for sure first though. ultimately it shouldnt matter much. turbo cars need to worry a little bit, but they were kind of maxed at the start. you wont be and your not dealing with the stresses of a turbo. i dont think you will notice much of a difference either way, if you want to put more in the mouth, you need to clean out the rump roast. id throw money at your exhaust before the intake. you will see a better return imo.

the starter should be just above the trans on the drivers side. you might also try turning the motor over by hand, the jam might not be the starter. only takes a second to check with a wrench. I would go to a decent hardware store and get a meter. the ones at the auto parts store are probably serviceable, but I think you will find a better deal on a better meter at parkrose, or even sears. you dont really need one for this, you can manually test the starter by jumping it like described or take it in to have it tested. never hurts to aquire tools though.

I could easily be wrong but i didnt think the EA's had sequential fuel injection. make sure when researching the megasquirt that you verify that its sequential, or that you properly set it up for sequential. like I said, been years so I dont remember exactly, but you should find out for sure. I think 140-150 hp is a decent target. that is still a 30% increase in horsepower and doing that is a pretty major deal. thats similar to building a 300-400 hp small block chevy. Start with all the basic non internal mods. intercooler and air intake system fuel system and ignition system exhaust id still go for an exhaust temp sensor as well, to help monitor whats happening. if your set on running an engine management system, do that as a first step so you can start tracking data and changes. pretty much none of these will hurt the car, just maximize what it can do. you can put a huge turbo on there, but it can only cram in as much as can be spit out the tailpipe. doing these mods may even give you a decent amount of power, but they will make anything you do later actually add its full potential. start there and get a baseline reading to start from. as for motor work, custom ground cams would be the first thing I would try. simply moving the power curve around might give you what you want without stressing the other parts of the motor. if you decide to really go for it, id use N/A pistons for 9.0+ ratio, and run less boost. keep in mind that is a huge jump in compression (turbo was in the 7's if I remember right), which is a main reason some builds dont run high psi. the small VF turbos spin up quick, running something larger might create a bunch of lag. another benefit is a small VF should be pretty cheap, even if you replace it in the end your not out much.

if you run a battery completely dead and try to start on it, it can fry the cables that attach to it. Im not sure of the science behind it, but I had a similar problem once and my dad told me what to look for on the phone. sure enough the cable itself was melted. dead batteries aren't actual completely empty of charge ussually. Jump starting it isnt the same as having a decent battey in it, it just gives it a nudge. try actually switching the battery and checking the cables to make sure they are intact and not melted or used for squirrel bedding.

there are differences in the carb, but they are the same one. both are hitachi's. there is a carter version on some cars, but yours looks just like mine pretty much. the differences are due to other equipment like the charcoal canister being on the opposite side, distributor in front, etc. you may find some external port differences, or some internal parts smaller, but the basic operation will be the same. either way the stuff we are dealing with are basic carb items. the basic operation will be that the fuel comes in from the tank, and the return line allows for the pump to run without fuel pouring into the carb. when the motor is on it pulls in what it needs and the return line allows extra to return to the tank. the tank vent keeps the pressure in the tank regulated to allow the car to use what it needs without starving or chokeing on it. not all cars are set up this way, but yours is from the look of it. the bowl vent works the same way. the vent allows the carb to maintain the proper pressure in the bowl. that way the carb gets exactly how much fuel it asks for instead of getting it forced or restrained by pressures. when these get messed up, the car starves, or chokes, or both depending on what your trying to do. you may also see variations on hot days when the tank pressure is higher, at operating temperatures when mixtures change, rev's and stalls when turning and other signs.

Edit - looks like you have an EA81, thought it was an EA82. Should still be much the same, but which side the ports face and where your canister was and such might be a little different. theory should be the same though. First off, check if you have an O2 sensor plugged into the exhaust at the Y where it goes to 1 pipe. if you do have an o2 sensor wired there, disregard everything anyone has told you in posts and start searching for "hitachi Feedback carb". if you dont have a sensor, keep reading. Second, if you eliminated the charcoal canister then you probably plugged or otherwise messed up the bowl vent. you will get erratic behavior from that because the carb needs to be able to both pull air into and vent air out of that port. its one of the only thngs you actually need and it needs to be open to vent, but mine needed to be somewhat restricted to run right. On the front there are 2 hoses that go towords the passenger side. one looks like a match to the gas dribbler on the back, just plug it. the big one on the corner is the bowl vent. this used to go to the charcoal canister, but if you took it out you need to make sure you didnt plug the hose. just open didnt run right for me, plugging it didnt run right, I tried cutting a small hole in a plug which was better, but the best for me was to cram a slightly smaller hose onto it and leave the hose long to add just a little restriction. right now mine is about 2-3 ft long runs around the carb and is plugged into the airbox. I have everything pulled off of mine and it runs well. I average 28 mpg, starts well, drives fine, idles even when cold with no choke, doesnt smell. Im sure it could be better, but im perfectly happy with it till I can get something better worked out. on the back driver side of the carb you will have 3 hoses going to the firewall. one is the fuel line, one is the return line, one (that actually goes to the airbox) that is a tank vent. keep both fuel lines hooked up and dont reverse them, dont plug the tank vent. tank vent can be open atmosphere or routed to the airbox or something. I did airbox so I dont get any gas smells around my compartment. on the back side of the carb faceing the passenger side is some kind of vent that dribbles gas. i have mine plugged off and it works fine. I had it routed different places but the raw gas coming out of it just caused issues. havent had issues since it is plugged. plug it tight or you will have a gas leak. back passenger side of the carb is a vacuum for the secondary canister and some for the choke. Disconnect the choke and plug the lines, make sure the top butterfly is fully open. if needs be give it the Camaro treatment and wire it open. once you get it running right you can reistall the choke stuff and check it, but for now just disable it so its not causing problems if its faulty. check the secondary canister to make sure there are no leaks and that it is plugged in (nipple kind of hides under the linkage). Front of the carb should have 4 vacuum ports. 2 on the very front, one at the base in the middle, and one tucked under the linkage on the passenger side. some are ported and some arent, but use whatever is appropriate to hook up your vacuum advance, AC, or whatever other accessories you want. Plug the rest, dont worry about the valves and solenoids. dont remvoe them yet, but just mark where they go and disconnect and plug them. you can always just plug them in again if needed. As stated above, remove the lines for the antiafterfire valve, and plug them off. also check the small vacuum line on the EGR. Long story short you need to make sure your fuel delivery is correct, your bowl vent is adequate, and all the vacuum leaks are taken care of. then you can tune the carb and it will work, or at least show its not the problem.

First off, check if you have an O2 sensor plugged into the exhaust at the Y where it goes to 1 pipe. if you do have an o2 sensor wired there, disregard everything anyone has told you in posts and start searching for "hitachi Feedback carb". if you dont have a sensor, keep reading. Second, if you eliminated the charcoal canister then you probably plugged or otherwise messed up the bowl vent. you will get erratic behavior from that because the carb needs to be able to both pull air into and vent air out of that port. its one of the only thngs you actually need and it needs to be open to vent, but mine needed to be somewhat restricted to run right. On the front there are 2 hoses that go towords the passenger side. one looks like a match to the gas dribbler on the back, just plug it. the big one on the corner is the bowl vent. this used to go to the charcoal canister, but if you took it out you need to make sure you didnt plug the hose. just open didnt run right for me, plugging it didnt run right, I tried cutting a small hole in a plug which was better, but the best for me was to cram a slightly smaller hose onto it and leave the hose long to add just a little restriction. right now mine is about 2-3 ft long runs around the carb and is plugged into the airbox. I have everything pulled off of mine and it runs well. I average 28 mpg, starts well, drives fine, idles even when cold with no choke, doesnt smell. Im sure it could be better, but im perfectly happy with it till I can get something better worked out. on the back driver side of the carb you will have 3 hoses going to the firewall. one is the fuel line, one is the return line, one (that actually goes to the airbox) that is a tank vent. keep both fuel lines hooked up and dont reverse them, dont plug the tank vent. tank vent can be open atmosphere or routed to the airbox or something. I did airbox so I dont get any gas smells around my compartment. on the back side of the carb faceing the passenger side is some kind of vent that dribbles gas. i have mine plugged off and it works fine. I had it routed different places but the raw gas coming out of it just caused issues. havent had issues since it is plugged. plug it tight or you will have a gas leak. back passenger side of the carb is a vacuum for the secondary canister and some for the choke. Disconnect the choke and plug the lines, make sure the top butterfly is fully open. if needs be give it the Camaro treatment and wire it open. once you get it running right you can reistall the choke stuff and check it, but for now just disable it so its not causing problems if its faulty. check the secondary canister to make sure there are no leaks and that it is plugged in (nipple kind of hides under the linkage). Front of the carb should have 4 vacuum ports. 2 on the very front, one at the base in the middle, and one tucked under the linkage on the passenger side. some are ported and some arent, but use whatever is appropriate to hook up your vacuum advance, AC, or whatever other accessories you want. Plug the rest, dont worry about the valves and solenoids. dont remvoe them yet, but just mark where they go and disconnect and plug them. you can always just plug them in again if needed. As stated above, remove the lines for the antiafterfire valve, and plug them off. also check the small vacuum line on the EGR. Long story short you need to make sure your fuel delivery is correct, your bowl vent is adequate, and all the vacuum leaks are taken care of. then you can tune the carb and it will work, or at least show its not the problem.

getting it to 200 hp, and\or running 17 psi of boost is not something that will be attainable with a few mods. anyone running that kind of numbers that I have heard of were completely built with lots of custom work. One of the first suggested mod to me was an exhaust temp gauge. this will allow you to monitor your combustion chamber temps, which is the real killer. the major thing is that the stock fuel system cant keep up with any major mods to the hp or boost. the injectors are rated for the motor and wont keep up, you need to replace them or rebuild them to higher output (heard of people using thunderbird supercoupe injectors). megasquirt is a good idea, but you need to measure the flow of the injectors, pump, and lines to make sure the whole package is up to the task. Most common turbo is a VF from an early legacy running around 10-11 psi of boost. even major builds with custom everything dont run much bigger, or if they do they use a boost controller to turn it down most of the time. if your really serious about 200 hp, then you will need to do custom pistons, or run N/A 9.5 to 1 pistons, custom cams and head work, fuel system and ignition system mods, exhaust, spider intake, intercooler. I've also heard that people were using copper head gaskets that some company was putting out. even after all of this most people said they had to watch and be ready to take their foot out of it. i would first install an exhaust temp gauge and intercooler. niether will hurt anything, and will be needed anyway. then do the complete fuel system and get it running well. then add your VF turbo and a boost controller to tune it down to stock levels. at this point you can keep increasing boost and retuning the car until you hit a problem or wall. even if you decide to go further, these pieces of equipment will be needed, but I think they will give you a good increase without too much risk.

I would hook up that vacuum gauge. they are great for tuning, but they also show signs of other problems and can help you find and diagnose vacuum leaks, valve train issues, etc. even if you had a weber on there now it may be doing the same things. they arent magic, if you have a vacuum leak, something cloged, etc then a weber would run like crap too. diagnose the problem, go from there, test equipment is there for a reason. Look up the list of problems that vacuum gauges diagnose, and the way to read them and hook one up. 2 turns is a starting point that will likely run, it may or may not be the proper setting, especially if there are other problems. I think mine is closer to 5 turns to run right, I started at 2 turns, kept backing it out to get better vacuum readings and idle. just turn down the idle to 700, turn out the mixture screw till it smooths out and the idle climbs, rinse and repeat till it doesnt help, then fiddle a little to get it perfect.

you can get a good compressor to keep with you and just air them way down when you go off the pavement. then inflate again after you come back. find a tire that will run well on low psi and you should be able to greatly increase the traction by lowering the psi. I bought one for my brother for his birthday that you could set the psi you wanted and it would air down or inflate to it. added benefit of trail repair of flats