djellum

Yah, i set my timing to 20 deg as well, mine has the hitachi still. I am not certain since I havent had a chance to tear into it, but I believe the reason mine runs better is because the mechanical advance is faulty. I can move the rotor and it wont spring back at all, and I cant detect any mechanical advance even up to 3k. because of this (maybe) It would need the initial advance to be higher to compensate. I know you have done some disty work, but it might be a good thing to check. Ideally now that I dont have emmisions to worry about I want to run lower initial deg and a proper mechanical and vacuum advance hooked to manifold. have to rebuild the disty first though. right now I have 20 degrees initial with no mechanical and a 25 deg vacuum on ported.

Timing is not carb related, you dont run more because you have a weber. I run 20 with my hitachi, but I also have some timing issues in the distributor. fuel delivery will affect the limits of your timing and can affect where it runs well at, but its not a certainty. since the weber was swapped check if your distributor is hooked to manifold or ported vacuum. it needs to be on ported unless someone has been into the distributor to change things. My vacuum advance gives 25 degrees at max vacuum, so you cant run manifold vacuum at that amount with 20 deg initial and have it idle right. What I would recommend is check your initial with the vacuum advance unhooked and the line plugged like you normally would. then hook up your vacuum advance to manifold vacuum and check again, this will tell you what your vacuum advance is rated at. then unhook the vacuum advance and turn the idle up to 2500 or 3k and see if there is any mechanical advance. once you have all of these numbers you can figure out where your timing should be.

Also check the driveline bearings, ujoints, and transmission mounts

I first had it set up like Gloyale said, with the front and back ports connected and a hose to the airbox, but it wasnt running right and would die at odd times. it turns out that the back port was dribbling liquid gas into the hose and when it built up or I turned right it would suck it up into the other port and kill the car. I ended up just plugging them. it works well this way, though I dont know if its another carb problem that caused the raw fuel in the line or if its normal. I would say it does run a little rich, but rich is better than lean, and I have no power, idle, or driving issues. I still get 28 mpg highway and it runs smooth at all rpms so I dont think it is too far off. I liked the vac gauge method. hook up a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum (i used the port below the carb) turn your mixture screw in all the way, then turn it out 2 full turns. screw in the idle screw till it touches, then just a little farther so you know it will idle a little high, then start it. turn down the idle to 750, tweeking the mixture a bit to smooth it out if it starts to stumble. you should try to achieve a smooth idle at 750. once you do go to the vacuum gauge. adjust the mixture and idle screws to attain the highest and smoothest vacuum reading at 750 rpms with the leanest mixture. it should end up where your 20+ on the gauge, with very little needle wiggle, at 750 rpms or lower, and turning in the mixture screw in will cause the needle to move around. You will be very close at this point, I then went behind the car and tweeked the mixture a tiny bit to eliminate any bad smells from the exhaust.

Id readjust the choke and check the carb settings. nvm, thought it was a carbed car.

its just the switch not the module. I would guess that the actual challenger switch would go through a separate module that is wired into the system, or the computer. It wouldn't be any different than a toggle switch other than it might have specific wires that a basic switch wouldn't have. if you want to fab something up, either pull the entire setup out of a junkyard car, or start with a standard remote start button like a mechanic uses.

Dont forget to release the Ebrake before you snug it down. the rotor is bolted to the hub you want to tighten, so it might add some extra stress or resistance.

when you say blown #1 cylinder what do you mean? generally the absolute cheapest option is fixing the one you have. that being said I think the easiest would be getting a running used EA82 cheap and swapping it in. then take the one you have apart and repair it as you go. then you have a fresh replacement. of course it depends on what you mean by blown. if its just failing a compression test you may just be able to rebuild a head and keep running it.

Id take out the spark plugs and squirt a little oil in the hole, then turn the motor over by hand for a few rotations. sometimes a motor that sits will bind to the cylinder walls and tear things up when it starts. its not always a problem but I wouldn't try starting it till you make sure it will at least hand crank. also my dad used to use a drill to run the oil pump for a bit to circulate some oil in the valve train before starting it. you cant use the same method since the oil pump isn't driven by the distributor, but if there is a way I would do that as well. woundnt be a bad idea to check the timing belts and distributor to make sure they are installed correctly. if it was pulled for timing belt replacement and never got back on the road it may have been because they messed something up (assuming thanks craig is craigslist and not someone you know named Craig).

generally the cheap ones dont charge through the usb port, and wont play devices through them either. you should be able to hook up your ipod through the 3.5 mm jack and play it though. also the usb will play mp3 off of flash drive. I have a cheap dual deck, it works that way. still nice to have all the music on a flash drive though. the nicer Sony/Pioneer/JVC Iphone ready ones that charge, play, and control your Idevice are around $70, which isnt bad either.

the guys over at the XT forum ussually suggested installing an exhaust temp sensor. theory was that as you boost up the heat increases and having a temp sensor would tell them when they were getting into the red zone. im guessing they installed it in the Y somewhere. I think they make actual combustion chamber temp sensors but you have to machine the heads to accept them. also they used ford thunderbird supercoupe injectors if they didnt modify the stock ones. the stock injectors arent rated for much more than the motor puts out, so you will run lean as you start modifying if you dont pay attention to your injectors. I beleive there was a place in washington that would rebuild and spec your injectors for about $30 per injector. I havent had a turbo XT in years, but I would see to the fuel delivery, head gaskets, intercooler, etc before messing with the boost. You want to make sure the motor is ready for it or it will just burn it out. of the mild builds I have heard of they use early legacy turbos to get an extra 2 psi or so. dont throw on a WRX turbo or something like that, its just too much. Most all of the ones that tricked them out used megasquirt to manage the engine.

I am a fan of driving them. keep it clean and retune it often, but simply driving it will fix or break a lot. either way work is getting done. Test equipement exists so that you dont have to guess. hook up a timing light, vacuum gauge, etc and make sure you know where your at. Webers are supposed to be sensetive to fuel pressure so check the pressure. I still maintain that you need to first make sure that all the vacuum leaks are gone, it can still run and start with a small vacuum leak. get all the linguini off of the motor since you dont need it for the weber setup. probably something easy is pour a half can of seafoam in the oil, then do the seafoam in the carb treatment. once you finish with the smoke show from foaming the valve train, change the oil. this will clean out a lot of gunk from the motor. you shouldnt see large jumps with fuel octanes. go with the lowest octane you can get without pinging, but it shouldnt stall on 91 unless its out of whack somewhere. I was running 91 (normal blend) since my motor was out before I got it, and have been stepping it down. mine likes 89 best so far, but I have some timing problems that are likely causing it. you should run fine on 87. 1)fix vacuum leaks and remove unneeded equipment 2)check and set timing correctly, and test distributor for mechanical and vacuum advance. 3)tune or have someone tune the carb to make sure your set properly. if all that checks out your sitting pretty well, chase problems as they appear.

i would say something in the charging system is a likely culprit. Reg is probably in the alternator, check an online auto parts store and see. the reg will be in the motor compartment and directly hooked to the battery if its seperate.

I like to adjust my carb with a vacuum gauge. I dont have a lot of expierience to be able to just tell by listening. just google it, basically the theory is that maximizing your vacuum will your best lean idle or very close. I seem to do better that way. also a vacuum gauge can tell you about many problems you cant see or hear if you dont know to look for them. just google the list, I cant remember it, but there are about a half dozen problems from valve issues, vacuum leaks, etc that the gauge will help diagnose.

sounds like your on your way. here are a couple of things that may help move things along

you dont need to go through a vacuum line for seafoam. that instruction is for fuel injection cars so you dont mess up any pre manifold sensors. just pour it lightly into the carb while running. let it stumble for a bit then put enough in to kill the motor. let it sit, then watch the smoke show. I would wait till you get all the other stuff tightened up first though. the carb cant adjust like injection can, so you will notice it running different on the tank with the foam in it (at least I did). I have almost always noticed the best results 1-2 tanks after running it through. you prob will get worse mileage from the auto, but I would still expect mid/high 20's from a well running one, provided your driving right.

the EGR (round valve direct mounted to the back PS of the manifold) will have 2 lines, one is a small vacuum line like all the rest. that is what actuates the baffle inside to allow the exhaust gas to enter the manifold when your at cruising speed. the large line goes to the Anti Afterfire Valve. the actual EGR aspect is done internally so you can disconnect and plug the anti-afterfire valve hose. leaving the small vacuum line on works the egr, and disconnecting it stops it from working. dont use the little hardline tubes that go under the manifold. just run the vacuum lines straight to whatever you want. the hard lines are just tubes, they dont attach to anything. if you ever take off the manifold you can remove them. I hooked my heater to the manifold port right below the carb on the back of the manifold (probably have to T it with your EGR). ultimately doesnt matter though. make sure any actual ports off of the manifold or carb are plugged in, or plugged with a vacuum plug. the reason plugging in the heater controls helped is you fixed a vacuum leak. the vacuum leaks (what I was reffering to by air leak) need to get patched up before you can really do much trouble shooting. i don't know what actual size they are, just bring one with you to the store. make sure any actual ports off of the manifold or carb are plugged in, or plugged with a vacuum plug. the black plastic box by the distributor is probably an ASV (air suction valve) system silencer. it shouldnt be running to your EGR, it should run from an ASV valve that is mounted to the block and runs a hard line to the exhaust. there should be one on both sides. remove both silencers and plug the large lines down by the ASV valve. it just pumps air into your exhaust, but if its leaking it creates an exhaust leak. PCV needs clean air in the passenger side, and the drivers side routed to the pcv valve in the manifold. use a genuine subaru pcv valve, not an aftermarket. sometimes a restrictor or small vent tube is used to help keep it from using too much oil. you shouldnt be spraying lots of carb cleaner around, just a very quick spray and see if the rpm increases, if so then you have a vacuum leak and its pulling in the cleaner. whatever you use has to be flammable. alchohol isnt good for rubber, but you shouldnt need much. with perfect hitachi, 30ish mpg should be doable, mines fully plugged and all emissions removed, gets 26-28. with a weber you should be able to get the same, but people generally see a loss of 1-2 mpg. I would say that until you get 25 or higher with the weber, then you have some more tuning to do. You need to have - 1) pcv valve hooked up 2) Ported vacuum from the carb to the distributor (ported means it increases vacuum when the rpms increase) 3) A manifold vacuum line going to the heater canister. 4) A manifold vacuum line going to the EGR. 5) Whatever vacuum lines you need for the transmission and AC. I dont know exactly but they should be hooked to either the carb or manifold as appropriate. Start there, run each individually with new hose, bypassing whatever used to be hooked up. then plug or remove the unneeded stuff and see where your at. ill take pic of mine where I have everything plugged off or plugged in.

I dont know about a 3 door for sure, but be sure to snag the bearing between the trans and rear end if it has one. I believe they are welded in, but I could be thinking of people who were just moving them. also the gas tanks often have reliefs for the rear diff, so check in the wrecked one to see.

with the weber you really only need to have a couple vacuum lines. get a few feet of new hose and run the carb to the distributor vacuum advance, manifold to the heater controls behind the passenger strut tower. hook up the EGR if you want to run it. for testing purposes I would leave it unhooked till you get it running right and then hook it back up. if your AC needs something leave that hooked up as well, idk if there are any vacuum things associated with them. Unless the AC runs off of the other valves then you dont need them. thermo-vacuum valve, anti afterfire valve, etc are all just potential leak problems at this point. use soem carb cleaner spray to check for leaks, just give a quick spray on the lines and if the motor rpm changes you have an issue to check on. couple of things to note, 1) make sure when your rerouting hoses that you keep your pcv system running correctly 2) make sure that your tank vent line is open to the air or is ran someplace where it can vent properly (charcoal canister, air cleaner housing, etc) 3)check for a fuel return line. the origional carburator had a fuel line, fuel return line, and tank vent line that were hooked to the carb/aribox. you dont have to run fuel returns and such with a weber but you can, and there are specific ways each type is plumbed. first fix all the air leaks you can, then throw a tune on the carburetor and see where you are at. another thing to check is the distributor. pull a vacuum on the advance can (with a vacuum pump or just suck on the hose) and see if the air bleeds out. if so the vac advance is bad. also twist the rotor a bit and see if it springs back to position correctly.

dredging up an older post of mine since I'm working on this again. as stated before its an 87 carbed EA82. I dont actually know which distributor I have but it only has 1 vac can. my coil does have the green dots mentioned above, but the motors been out before I bought it so who knows what parts came from where. is there an easy way to tell a ND single can from a Hitachi one? Also can the adjustable one be made to fit on either of them? I would really like an adjustable can, just in case. Anyways, the car is running well, but I was just curious and checked out the distributor with my timing light a little while ago. the findings were strange. I wanted to know how much mechanical advance was built in, so I dialed up the idle to about 3k with the vac unhooked and checked with the timing light. didnt show any mechanical advance at all. Ive heard on other motors that somewhere in the 2k range the mechanical should be kicking in, but idk about the boxers. how much mechanical advance should I get and at what rpm? I then checked what I got from the vacuum. threw the vac canister onto manifold vacuum to get full out at idle. showed that my vacuum advanced 25 degrees. 25 degrees seems a little high. It wont hold a vacuum so it needs rebuilt anyway, but is this normal for our cars? I am going to send in at least the vac advance to be rebuilt, but I wanted to troubleshoot any issues with the disty so I can send it in if needed as well.

id try putting a posting in the 80's subaru section a couple of links above this one on the main page. just more traffic there it seems. also state whether its fuel injected or a carb. im assuming its a carb since you posted here, but just in case. couple of things to check. 1) spray some carb cleaner around the vacuum hoses on the motor. if the motor rpm increases then you have a vacuum leak. there are likely a few of them if you still have the stock plate of spaghetti on the motor. button up any vacuum leaks by replacing hoses but if its a carb dont pull the trigger on expensive valves and baffles that you might not need. research here before you spend too much. 2) timing can do that if its out of whack. if your that new you probably dont have a timing light, but you can rent one or borrow one, or just have someone check it. if you have a vacuum hose running to the distributor, make sure it is plugged into a carb port and not the manifold. it needs ported vaccum (vacuum that increases with rpm) and many other motors use unported vacuum. debate rages, but this motor and dist was ran ported so i would just put it back that way if you find it different. Also most people I see posting here (and myself as well) have found that 20 deg initial timing is better than the 8 deg it says in the manual. I set it like the sticker on my car said and it ran crappy. increased the timing and it ran much better. not fully through testing it yet though. 3) sticking throttle sounds like its just a linkage deal. spray it down with some carb cleaner and/or visually find out where its binding. worn throttle shafts can bind (its what mine is doing currently) so I moved the spring to add a bit more pull. it works as a get by kind of fix. the pcv and egr could be the culprits if they leak. if so the carb cleaner trick could find it. while you at it you can pull the pcv valve out and clean it with some gas. if it rattles around its probably fine. try pulling the vacuum hose off of the egr valve (the small hose), suck on it and plug it with your tongue. if it holds the egr is likely fine, if it bleeds out its bad. if it is working ok, leaving this hose off and plugging it should deactivate the egr to take it out of the mix. it can still be leaking exhaust into the manifold though. No great way to test that other than removal and see if it is different.

I thought that was only the EA81 wagons?

I cant tell you that if you do a front sumersault at about 40 mph in a subaru you will break and axle. I can also tell you that Chevette front shocks can only handle about 2-3 ft of air before they shatter into pieces. Thats about all I know on that subject. street driving I havent noticed any bumps. the tires dont even look very stuffed. the ones I bought were 195/70/r14 bridgestones that were rated from the factory at 24.9 inches in diameter. Ive read here that you dont need a lift for 25 inch tires. of course if you went offroad it would be different. I havent fully articulated to see if they rub then, but I doubt it would be serious. I wouldnt go with a lift or tires as a spare set. You would not save enough gas if any to offset the cost of the few hundred you would spend. If you want to be taller or go offroad, do it. If not I wouldnt worry about it. heres a pic of mine with the 14's. you can see there is really plenty of room.

Hey, Anyone ever played with the jets on a DFEV weber? I just got one for $25 in good shape so I figured I would go ahead and run with it since I have a power steering EA82 and value mileage over power. It came off of a volkswagon, but no idea if it ran right or not. I have read that since the other carb internals are smaller than the DGV you have to use different jets, but theres no ballpark range that I can find for a starting point. Anyone know what jets to start with, or have a method for calculating the jet size from other measurements? I have read through all the weber articles and didnt find it.

I just did 650 miles highway to get to Port Townsend and back. went flat out as fast as I could most of the time, which was about 75-80. the shudder from my suspension almost caused me to need dental work. But i got 30 mpg from an emission gutted hitachi with a worn throttle shaft, larger tires, and a bad vacuum advance. I think my clutch slips a little too since it shudders bad when you throttle at that speed. the car will get good mileage on its own. I stand beside stock tires and proper maintenance. also use good quality gas, chevron, shell, etc. Dont put arco in your car.