djellum

make sure the cone washer doesn't have a lip worn into the outer edge, thats generally the way to tell they are worn out. ive filed a few down if lightly worn but if its really prominent dont use it. also the washer is directional and is marked. the parts are called "Center Piece Axle" anytime I have found them at dealerships and such, maybe try searching that if you havent yet. I can find them for my gen of subaru but dont see them for the brat. anyone know offhand if they are the same between the models?

I hadn't heard that the 87 carbs were higher comp. Makes me happy though, I was going to put spfi pistons in my carb block when I reseal it, but I dont think I will now.

your lowering the compression going to the carb motor, provided everything is stock. the other pistons will fit provided the crosshatching is still good, if it looks decent might want to rering it and use the higher comp pistons

check the codes on the computer. a likelyhood is a bad connection causing the comp to stay powered down.

Try12 degrees or so. The 20 deg setting is for fuel injected motors, not carbs. It works for us unlike other motors cause we dont have any mechanical advance in the normal driving ranges, but the actual specs are 6-8 like other carbs. Webers are supposed to like some extra timing, I found 12 degrees my sweet spot. my motors kind of special needs though, its has... substance abuse problems...

be cautious when buying the rears, on some models (mine) the axles dont come with the stub that goes through the bearing, only the cv joints between the stub and the rear end. they are often hard to get out so dont sledge it out thinking that the new one will have the stub and splines. I did this on one of mine, luckily the machine shop was able to save 3/4 of the threads so I could keep using it.

ive tried nice plugs before and to be honest my motor didn't like them much. plain NGK R's (no idea what your equivalent model number would be) have been the best for me. if you get it together and have some minor ghost issues try a set of cheap NGK plugs

I used a torch on mine. you dont need a hammer, just clamp some vice grips on the shaft and use them for leverage with your hand. I pulled the seats completely out and took the console completely out so there was plenty of room, and removed the rubber from the lever. I put a metal box in the drivers side where the seat goes to set the torch down if you need to, even if you turn off the gas the torch head is hot enough to damage. doesnt take much at all, kiss the metal where you want to bend with the torch, pull away the heat and bend it with your hand. I put the torch out and in the box to reset the vice grip and restarted everything for the second bend. you have to make 2 bends, placement is up to you. one goes up, then the other bends back down to get the lever flattened back out to its original angle. I left the rubber off of mine for extra clearance, and because I eventually want to cut the shaft to have the knob run just outside of the console to have more console room to put a cup holder.

ive ran them without thermostats with no issue besides cold blooded. that said, its fine to get you home but for troubleshooting its a bad idea. introduces yet another variable and possible problem to the stack. if your troubleshooting things and you feel something might be the culprit. you will do yourself a service to fix it right in the first place. buy a dealership thermo if you can get one. only a few dollars more but much better quality than the aftermarkets. I have had bad luck with the fail open ones.

Id try to find a rebuild kit. probably just a set of bushings or bearings (though I havent pulled one apart myself).

its near impossible to find a manual rack, and even if you see them listed they are the EA81 style (least every time I have tried). replacing the power rack or pump is super easy and they are still plentiful so I wouldn't swap if I were you.

should be the same as the bottom one, just take it to the hardware store, though they may not have a huge selection of metric 1.25 pitch (what most of our bolts are)

carefull on the manual rack. parts stores list the EA81 racks as fitting your car and they dont. they will be close and can be made to bolt in, but they dont move enough and wont work. I ended up just getting a rebuilt power rack and I would suggest so for you.

id redo the timing and the carb adjust. you may be off on your timing and attempting to tune the carb to adjust for it. i could believe just setting it really lean might cause what your saying. low power under load but really responsive on flat ground, and fuel is a coolant in the combustion chamber. I dont think this is your main problem but it could be A problem. what procedure did you use to do the timing and tune the carb?

If the blocks in good enough shape you could put new rings in without splitting the case. There are ports to let you pull the wrist pins. Whether or not it will work depends on the cross hatch in the cylinders. Would need to pull the motor for that but its super easy on these

i generally clean with gas and a brush like my dad did. gas will not evap quickly like carb cleaner. put it in a pan with a lid or some flat cover on it so you can avoid the worst of the fumes, and make sure your outside or in a ventilated area. a paintbrush will get most of it, just make sure you get one that can handle whatever solvent you use. i use a small brass brush on tough stuff. could also get some parts washer solvent, works well just in a pan

does the dash beep? if so the dash may not be the issue. they are very sensitive to input voltage, so a weak alternator or electrical system can cause them to enter a safe mode and not turn on. id double check your input voltage before replacing. I don't know exact specifics, I just had to research it once. the info is here so do some searching.

short answer is not a lot of wiggle room for actual increased articulation. lift is easy but the stock suspension parts will ruin most attempts to increase travel. extending the springs to gain lift reduces the actual down travel so not great for what you wish to do, id stick to lift blocks. depending on how much custom fab you might be able to do, you could perhaps use the upper half of the cv axle travel. would mean a saggy rear diff, but might be worth it if you want a kind of buggy style build. watch out for the year of forerunner to pick parts from. only certain years work on our cars so you have to make sure those years are what the yota guys use for their swaps.

the rims or hubs were drilled in the first place, no matter how many holes they have. if it were me, I would take a spare set of hubs to a machine shop and have them drill them. no different than what the factory did other than maybe using a robot instead of a person. then you arent stuck on one set of rims and can use any six lug. also you have the option of easily going back to stock if you sell the car or something. cant imagine it would cost more than $5-$10 a hole to have a machine shop do it, and its pretty easy to do yourself as well. I went the easier route and got a couple of sets of pugs.

check your tensioners on the timing belt. maybe a stripped bolt or something is letting them move the belt out of alignment. also check that oil pump cog wheel. if you had the TOD and resealing the oil pump didnt fix it then maybe the pump is actually bad and you just made it less noticeable with the new lifters. maybe wobbly shaft on the oil pump?

loose axle roll pin? maybe a little binding from the 4wd keeps it tighter in place? just guessing really. does it change tone or pace under any circumstance or is it just there or not?

Meant air release hole, not hold. Theres a little pin hole in the thermostat that lets air bleed off of the spring. it is supposed to face forward towards the radiator. the thermostat will go in any orientation but the air could get trapped and cause the thermostat to not function properly if that hole is facing rearwards. A lot of time level ground isnt actually level. some people will jack up the front of the car to get it to purge. the trick is to get the air bubbles to touch the hole. its generally not much of a problem, it just bleeds as intended but stubborn ones do exist. if the stat is functional and your not leaking then its likely air. i dont know exactly how you do it, but start it up cold with the radiator cap off and fill it slowly as the car keeps drinking it. just mentioning it in case you do something different. I dont know the whole story from here lol. after a minute or so it should stop taking water, and then close up the radiator and fill the overflow. cycle it a few times through the heat range and keep and eye on it.

remove all the console parts, have a buddy run the torch so you dont accidentally burn some part of the interior. put some vice grips on the end of the shaft near the T. have your buddy heat the shaft just after the second bend where it goes strait again and bend it up a bit. then put the console back on (after it cools) and mark where you want to bend it back strait again. remove console again, heat at the peak height you want, bend back down. works even better if you can just remove the lever and do it on the bench

did you make sure the little air release hold was facing forward? and did you run it on an incline to burp out the air? both will help, you probably got an air bubble stuck in the thermostat.

a couple of heads in rebuildable shape should be easy to find. just start with a better core since your rebuilding them anyway.