djellum

I went from stock tires like you have to ones that are 25 inches in diameter give or take. you dont need a lift to do it, but I wouldnt go any higher than 25 inches (actual diameter from the manufacturer, they vary). also my car is an 87 carbureted EA82 wagon with a high low trans. they had both injection and carbs on our years so you will have to check. it will say SPFI on the top of the motor and have a hose that goes to the air cleaner if its injected. if its got a standard old airbox and filter on top its a carb. this link has all the trans drive ratios. with them you can math out the actual rpms with the different tire sizes http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84798 Your really just not going to see a cost savings anywhere here. properly tuned, the difference between 500 rpm at freeway speeds just doesnt save you any amount of gas that is measurable by normal means. by the same token you wont see much harm from larger tires, so I opted to go with 14's for the 1.5 inch lift and tire selection, since I only need to worry about highway miles primarily. bottom line is that it takes an amount of energy to propel your car at 60 mph. the only way to increase the mileage is to reduce the traction, reduce drag, lighten the car, or increase the energy (run more efficiently). you wont see gas savings from lower rpm, you will see them from remaining in the proper power level to keep the motor from working harder. the best way to save gas is not to push the car, let it settle in where its comfortable and has power in 5th gear and go that speed. even if you change gears, select the least rolling resistance tires available, and hypermile the crap out of it, I doubt you would see more than a few miles per gallon out of it. It would likely take you a year just to make the money back on the tires, and you sacrifice traction and power to do it.

I went with 14 inch pugs and 195 70 R14. My revs only lowered about 500ish rpm in 5th gear, and thats with almost 3 inches bigger of tires. the rolling resistance is what will impact your mileage (like the width mentioned earlier), but the slight increase isnt really worth the loss of traction. no good getting a car to get an extra 1 mpg to just run it into the back of the guy in front. the goal should be to tune and drive in whatever way keeps your foot off the pedal. it does no good to sacrifice power to then have to give it more pedal to get up the hill. Dropping into 4th to keep the power and rpms up to pull a hill will actually save you gas over lugging down the motor. stock tire size and gearing will put more power down, so I would stick with it. get all the maintenance done right and get the motor running top notch. The car was designed to get good mileage and its hard to squeeze out any significant amount of increase Google "hypermileing" or "hypermileage". they will be full of tricks on how to drive in a manner that will save gas, but I wouldnt do anything besides making the stock setup run as perfect as it can. all the tricks your talking about add up to a couple of miles per gallon in exchange for all the cost and hassle.

might be easiest to just unhook the plastic snorkel that goes into the fender and pull from the motor compartment. a trick people used to do was flip the top of the air cleaner so that its pulling from all sides instead of just through the hose. lots of air cleaners get bad in certain spots only. personally I would go for an air cleaner setup like the weber one. the stock box and hose might collect dust for later where the weber style will not let any settle around the element.

You didn't describe what was happening, so have to assume some things. My dad had numerous cars with bad regulators. He would attempt to start the car and it would just give a rapid clicking and not turn over, like it was a dead battery. go out and rap on the voltage reg with a screwdriver handle and it would start for a week or 2. Rinse, repeat. Have done this to many cars to get them home. If you don't have access to a tester then I would reinstall the Alt and try banging on the reg a bit (no hammers). See if there is a change which would indicate its likely the reg. try starting the car and then removing the negative battery terminal to see if the car runs. if unhooking the negative kills or stalls the car then its likely something in the alt/reg dept. if it runs fine with no negative hooked up then its possible the issue is the battery. These are not 100% tests, but it can help narrow down the choices. do you not have a volt meter on the car? I would think you could even pull a volt meter out of a JY car and just use it for testing.

dont mess with old people, they may not get out of bed for the next 3 days, but they will kick your *ss right now.

the normal carb adjusts only the idle circuit, so it may be out of whack. since the secondaries are preset it wouldnt affect it then. unless you have removed the systems there is a vacuum system that acts like a second choke and is set to change the carb settings and different engine temps. might be a bad valve in that system or something. maybe running good at either extreme but not working properly in between.

you mean training a union apprentice? or just someone your company hired? Generally unions in my area are required to have X amount of journeyman per apprentice at a location. If the union wants to use you to train an apprentice, i would at least ask for base union journeyman wage or higher.

its just forced perspective on the pic. The gray car is a little forward and angled so it doesnt look right. Might be taller though, suspension wears and sags sometimes. the problem with the weatherguards is that there is no upper door sill to attach them too. they make 2 types, ones that sit in the window sill and ones that glue on. you may be able to get some glue on ones in there, but you would have to roll down the window to open the door or you would rip them off.

getting much harder to come by, like was said above, 80 series would be the tallest, but be carefull since most 80 series you find are trailer tires. 185 70 r13 are the largest abundant tire, and very few are off road types. if you can find a 185 80 r13 off road tire grab it, but likely you will be stuck with 185 70 r13 winter tires with the studs poped out.

nothings ever more likely to be messed up than after you fix it. Id first retorque the carb nuts, double check that the ports are all hooked up correctly, and readjust the carb from scratch. If you had a large air leak from the base gasket the carb was probably tuned to make up for it. If the choke is not working properly then it might not show symptoms until it goes up in temp. I had symptoms similar to that when I had a vacuum leak on a ported vacuum line. would idle and run ok, till you tried to give it gas and it would stutter from the vac leak. try the carb spray trick at normal idle, then turn up the idle screw to 2k or so and try it again.

if you need to look up the cone washer the part is called a "center piece axle". unlikely to find at a parts store. if you go for used ones or reuse the one you have, make sure it doesnt have a ridge on the outermost edge.

look up upholstery in the phone book and see what is in your area. Its not ultra expensive, but it depends on what you want. many times they can save the center stripe of cloth and just replace the vinyl side pieces. myself I want to find some XT seats since they have the manual height adjustment. did any other suby's have the adjustable height ones?

so I wasnt planning on driving till I figured out the bowl vent thing, but I got called into work today. initial findings on the freeway arent good. seems to be getting poor mileage and hesitation, which from reading is pretty standard fair for a bowl vent issue. from reading someone said to plumb the bowl vent to the charcoal canister. another post had the center front port plumbed into the rear one with a tee (red plugs in both pics), which was run to the air cleaner. I guess the question is what is the simplest way to plumb the vent for the carb.

Hey, so I pulled a ton of stuff off of my Hitachi, it runs tons better with all the cracked valves and hoses cleaned up. I do want to see if you all can double check what I have setup to make sure nothings plumbed improperly. I was specifically wondering about the bowl vent. Im assuming the actual bowl vent is the port that dribbles out gas on the back drivers side. Just want to make sure if it needs to be vented that it is. heres a view of the plugs on the back. the port with the red plug near the middle is the one that dribbles fuel when its not plugged, the lower black one was plugged when I got it. at the very bottom is a hose coming from the firewall that was just plugged into the air box. I can rehook it to the air box, but since I plugged all the other ports on the box I want to know for sure what it is first. its bracketed with the fuel lines (fuel tank vent?) This is the front view. most all of these were going to the charcoal canister. the 2 lines that are connected together go to the vac advance, that was how it was setup when I got it. my next project would be the choke. right now it doesn't work at all and just stays open. I like to fix it, or just remove it if its not working anyway, but I need a bit more research first if anyone knows a good resource.

i don't remember anyone mentioning the radiator cap. the cap controls the pressure and allows water into the overflow. if it doesnt work right the water can't expand.

pulled all the extra valvetry off of my hitachi, fixed a few vacuum leaks along the way. paint marked my timing marks so I could set it correctly (and dropped it from 22 deg to 8 like its supposed to be). got it retuned and setup, seems to be working ok, definitely idles better.

if for whatever reason it isnt spinning, couldnt that cause this problem? I havent looked inside a sub water pump but fi the fins are bolted on and loose or the shaft is broken it might not be circulating right. I would unhook the return hose and point it to a bucket. turn the car on and feed the radiator from a hose so it doesnt run completely dry. see if your getting good flow from the block/pump. I dont have a frame of reference for how much it should flow, but it might tell you something. I know this sounds simple, but have you checked the belt? they dont always squeel when they slip and yours might not be turning the pump sometimes.

I think what he was talking about was if the wire is frayed, melted, or damaged it could be grounding out along the path. just make sure the wire is intact all the way through the motor compartment. if the wire lays on something hot, or vibrates a lot it can dmg the sheilding. also pull it away from other things that may cause problems like other wires or metal where you can.

from the factory most of the welds are spot welds, but prob not what your thinking about. resistance welding is putting 2 plates together and they put it in and electrified clamp and run current through it. the squeeze pressure and electricity welds the 2 pieces together in the center. you can see it on the tabs of metal sticking off of the car like the line on the bottom below the car. there will be little circles along in a row. car sheet metal is setup to be welded this way so its not really set up for normal arc welding. the way i would attempt it (I've welded a lot, but not on cars). take a patch panel shaped like a circle just for example. use some magnets to hold it in place. put a small dot weld on the edge, just one trigger pull, zap, just to get it stuck together straight. then go to the opposite side and bend the upper weld to realign the piece, and same thing, zap another dot in there. keep going this alternating, 90 deg or 180 deg around, until its all doted up with a dot every inch or so. then you wire wheel the whole business since your using flux core. you may have to replace some of them since flux core doesn't work as well for this as hard wire. now you grind out the bulge on 1-2 of the spots you have put in, so they don't affect what your welding (gone is ok, minimal is better). the rest of the dots will hold it in place. start on a unground dot and weld a strip. how far is up to the metal, try all the tricks, drag the wire, anything you can do to reduce the heat. the weld may only be a half inch or even less. You walk around the edge going back and forth to the opposite sides to spread the heat just like you did with the dots. stitch it all together, grind it all back down and fix any holes. hard to say when i can't see it, but give it a go on some scrap and list the problems here.

check mounts? if your mounts are worn the engine/trans can flex around when your hard on it. might be flexing enough to move that inner boot far enough to tough.

another thing I haven't thought about is ground. if you haven't been, make sure that both pieces are grounded. if the patch piece is gapped a bit where your going to weld it, it might affect the arc. kind of a long shot, but might help.

are you pushing or dragging? what I mean is what way is the gun pointing while your traveling? draggin, or keeping the gun pointed towards the weld you just put in will increase the buildup of the metal, and lower the penetration since the heat is being put into the area that is already thicker due to welding. pushing or pointing the gun to the gap you haven't welded yet will increase penetration since your preheating the base metal a bit and reduce weld buildup. for thin sheet you won't be doing much welding in a row like was said earlier. just get a dot on the edges about an inch or 2 apart. but don't do it in a row like was said earlier, the shrinking will pull the piece out of alignment that way. if you want to put in more at a time drag the wire.

doesn't seem to bad, my gauge reads much the same. cold night, lots of airflow, etc, runs about 25% up the gauge. hot ambient, traffic, etc, mines at 50% or maybe a touch higher. when you scan the drivers side, are you scanning where the trans fluid cooler is? Some cars have the trans cooler even though you have a manual. you might be scanning the air, or trans fluid, in there instead of the water.

From what I hear lots of race setups run air pumps to pull those gases into the exhaust so they are vacuated but not messing with the combustion process. If I wanted a fancy setup I would look into hooking the system up to the ASV pump. No idea of the dangers of unburned fuel/water/oil in the exhaust, just an initial impression. Im assuming it would not play nice with a cat, but race motors wont run that anyway. I just want the car to stop sucking up oil, and I dont want anything in the tailpipe causing afterfires either. If thats your thing though maybe that can work for you.

I wasnt talking about deleting the crank case ventilation, I was talking about running dual breathers like people sometimes do on old V8's. this would delete the pcv valve, and just vent to the atmosphere. with research the vacuum does help remove some possibly harmful vapors though so I kept it. seems to be largely fixed now, routed some new 5/8 hose up by the air box with a new elbow, cleaned the pcv valve, and installed a breather to eliminate the hoses to the airbox. seems to be working much better, ill install a new subaru direct pcv once it gets in at the dealer just in case.