djellum

Hey, recently put pugs on my subaru, had a pair of 14x6 and a pair of 14x5.5. rims and tires are working fine and its much better to drive, but I noticed something that concerns me. on the front the 5.5 are compressed into the 4 pegs on the hub that normally go inside the ring on the stock rims. the 6 inches on the back have a deeper socket so the back of the rim behind the lug touches the drum. is that common? everything seems solid and the place I got tires said they were seated down fine. Im thinking of switching places so that the 6 inches are on the front, the 5.5's would still likely touch the ring on the brake drum, but that seems sturdier than wedged into the 4 pegs in the front.

Thanks Subynut Jzacher85 - I would be interested in the weber and disty. I have a full set of pug lugs for the alloys in trade if your headed that way. if you cant pm yet, send me an email drjellum@hotmail.com

yah, once I looked into it the valve is a good thing. dual breathers would keep the pressure from building, but not remove the posibly harmfull gasses as well. GD - someone mentioned you writing up a proper routing for pcv, but I havent found it. I will have a breather on the passenger side, 5/8 pcv hose out of the drivers side running to a OEM Subaru valve (once it gets here). Someone mentioned using a T or angle fitting, which I will eventually do just to cleanup the routing, but is it essential? My friend said his had a lot less suction with the angle connecting the 2 hoses. What would you suggest for the simplest setup for pcv?

lately, changed out the pcv hoses, deleted ASV baffles, deleted Antiafterfire valve, changed some fluids, tune up. Tried to install stereo but it was more trouble than it was worth. today I bought 2 195/70r14 bridgestones and got my pugs mounted. No more washboard freeways. also fixed a loose trim piece on the rain rail (though I hesitate to call a zip tie a "fix"). trimmed a friends fenders on his brat to clean them up a bit, and did some pre work on setting him up a spare tire mount.

I ended up cleaning out the old pcv valve and putting it back in. I only replaced it since I just bought the car and was replacing the stuff nobody pays attention too. I ran a new 5/8 line in large arc by the air cleaner and down, hopping a bit more height will help. I ordered a subaru pcv from the dealer, it will take a couple of days to get here. does the elbow fitting actually help in someway besides the shape of the plumbing? I have a normal 5/8 elbow for pcv i can put on if it actually does something.

check the belt, it should go fully into the slot in all the pulleys without going too deep in. sometimes they may give you belts that are too wide and they don't sit deep enough. flush is fine, or a little inside the pulley, but no part of the belt should be outside the edge of the pulley. I've always just got them as tight as I could without trying to prove something. also check any 3 groove pulleys to make sure your on the right one. sounds basic but some pulleys have extra grooves on the back, and other on the front. seen it a few times. Id probably just throw some more grunt into it and see if it stops. and don't use any goop or belt dressing, stuff doesn't work for crap and makes a mess.

the best general setup I can think of is small .020, .023 hard wire with 100% argon. you get a clean weld with 75/25 as well and its a bit cheaper. each area you take out of spec makes it a little worse to work with. flux core is generally a higher penetration process than hardwire, and combined with the hassle of the flux its really a bear to work with on thin stuff. any gas with helium, hydrogen, or oxygen (including CO2) will increase the heat. inert gasses like argon and nitrogen will not add heat. a couple of thing that will help greatly... metal prep. much of what you can accomplish is dependent on the shape of the metal. also be as clean as you can and take everything down to bare metal if you can. if you want to weld thicker stuff than your welder can do in one pass bevel it ( |/ ) so you can get to the bottom. a couple of things to help weld thin stuff is J grooves. make a small L at the end of each piece and clamp them together (looks like 2 J's in a mirror image). either weld down the little fence you just made or weld the groove on the other side. effectively gives you more material to absorb the heat. you could also fold the edge, doubling the thickness of the piece you are welding in, just keep the gun pointed mostly at the thicker piece and just wash up on the thinner one. You can sometimes switch the polarity. its generally not good since the wire and process are set up to do something specific, but 70-80% of the heat is on the positive side of the arc. if your workpiece is the positive terminal then you can switch it. just be careful, not all machines can do that, and the wire and gun will be getting really hot. don't ruin your machine. another trick to try on some scrap. get a piece of copper from and old pipe or something and hammer it flat. Copper conducts well, so it won't mess up the arc and draws lots of heat away, but it has an extremely high melting temp. place i behind the joint you are welding and clamp it tight. its very possible that your machine won't be able to melt it so you can weld on top of it using it as a heat sink and it won't stick. lots of variables with it, but I have heard it works well in a pinch. you will prob have to go slow and/or cool it off often.

id try the thermostat first, since you were just messing with it. the old one could have just been a really low temp one and the 185 runs at 3/4. might also want to check the water pump, the return hose on the drivers side comes out of it I believe.

did you check exhaust on both sides? if you have the same oily mess on both sides it will help show if its isolated to a head or piston, or if its a system that effects the whole motor. check the PCV system, I am having intermittant smoke that seems to be related to that. the color of the smoke does matter, oil is ussually tinted blue, antifreeze is thick and white.

cutting it off and then drilling and tapping threads is probably the best all around option. when you say "crack" do you mean the chisel mark or an actual crack in the manifold? if the manifold is cracked then i would probaly replace it. the problem with cracks is that even if they dont affect things now, they will grow over time. the manifold shouldnt be expensive or exceptionally difficult to replace. if you cant find a manifold or really want to fix this one, you have to grind (dremel will work) the crack until you have completely removed it, then fill the remaining cavity. Really though with the work it takes to fix the crack you would likely remove the manifold anyway. If its just a chisel mark or you want to chance it and see if it works, Id just dremel it a bit to give you some space and put whatever form of aluminum putty substance you can find in there. just make sure the top gets smooth so you dont affect the gasket seal.

Hey, so my car has started using about a quart of oil a week, and today it belched out an enormous cloud of smoke when I was on a right hand cloverleaf. both of these seem to be signs of a problem in the pcv system. I will be eliminating the ties to the air box when I check into it tomorrow. Ill just run a breather cap on the passenger side and the hose from the drivers side to the valve. My question though is what is the simplest way to vent the gasses? I dont have to go through emmisions, so would it hurt the system to run breather caps on both passenger and drivers sides? is the connection to the manifold important for the system or the running of the car? On the surface i wouldnt think it would change anything, just eliminate another possible failing part (though that breather cap on the drivers side might get dirty super fast). Not that I get any satisfaction from polluting, but my goal with this car is to run it as simple as possible.

I ended up with two 6's and two 5.5's. ill just pair them up front and back, I doubt if it will make a large difference in tire diameter. i would still like to trade them if possible, but it would have to be quickly. I plan on getting some tires very soon. the two 6's are pristine with the factory coating and have nice studs on them (195/70R14). I even have lugs for them. would be willing to trade for some 5.5's and maybe some tires or a little cash to put towards tires. if you want the 5.5's id trade straight for some 6's

hey, so I have 2 14x6 pug alloys, 1 14x5.5 inch pug alloy, and I am currently buying another one (though he is measuring it before I pull the trigger). the main question is whether or not there is enough of a change to the tire with a half inch rim width difference to matter? will i change the total diameter enough to wear funky or cause problems? I would assume that paired up front and back wouldn't cause problems unless in 4wd, but if only 1 wheel is 5.5 it might. if anyone is looking to trade one size for the other to make a set let me know. I don't know what the guy on CL has yet, but I have no preference other than wanting them all the same.

looking at the manual it looks like the C bracket your having problems with has another c bracket turned 90 deg on the other side of it that mounts it to something. Maybe undo that and take the whole assembly out?

Unlikely to be in stock. Try Retroroo, sub specialists in Colorado. Shippings cheap, parts are a little under $10. There was 1 dealership in oregon that had 2 (according to my local one). if you can't find any, see if any can be shipped out. I would go with Retroroo if you can't get one local though.

sent you a PM Wentz

the cone washer is called a "center Piece axle", you can find the subaru part number if you search the site a bit. the thinner one that goes between the center piece axle and the nut is called a spring washer (or at least thats what I have always heard it called. Its the one you have that is marked "out". imo replace them both with new parts. that ridge on the edge of the silted-ed-ed washer is not supposed to be there, and it can keep it from going deep enough to lock the hub. new center piece axle, new spring washer (though it sounds like you have one already), might as well get a new castle nut and torque it down. don't forget the cotter pin just in case.

I have my ASV system plugged off at the incoming metal flange of the ASV pump itself. I have 2 of them on my EA82, idk what your running. I just removed the hose and put large vacuum plugs on the flange. I haven't got around to removing the pumps yet. You can pinch off or plug the pipes connected by the exhaust manifold, which is what I will eventually do. basically the closer to the exhaust you plug it off the more of the system you can remove. many people just run the basic pcv routing and have a breather cap or air inlet from the carb base on the passenger head, and route the drivers side head direct to the pcv valve. That foam filter just keeps oil out of the air cleaner assembly, a breather cap will have one if you want it to run from the air cleaner you can likely find a foamy filter inside a grommet to stick on there. Ive seen them before but I can't remember the application. those valves are vacuum switches, and that sensor you have pics of looks a lot like a vacuum sensor for that system. its section 4A in your haynes. did you have a feedback system? if its for running carb stuff then you can obviously loose it now that the weber is on there, if you no longer have the sensors that run them I doubt they will work anyway. if that is a temp sensor for your gauge use the old one that was matched to the gauge. if its a sensor for your old carb setup it doesn't matter anymore.

you can find top dead center by either pulling the valve cover and watching for the #1 intake valve to open and close (once it closes the piston is on its way up to top dead), or plugging the spark plug hole with your finger and feeling for compression. in other cars a skinny screwdriver through the hole will let you feel for the highest point the piston reaches while you turn the crank. won't be actual top dead center but it will be close.

still sounds like a possible timing issue. when timing is not set right you can "ping" or spark knock under load like going up a hill. its actually called detonation and its from the fuel igniting too soon. If its actually a deep and loud knocking that could be other things as well. most of the time if your pinging from not using the right gas or something its just a general clatter. you really need a timing light to do the job right. you can probably rent one from an auto parts store, but the procedures for timing really need to be done step by step or its very hard to diagnose. if you have no options for getting a timing light, you can try using higher octane gas, and also try retarding the distributor a little and see if it improves. its not the best method and it won't get you perfect but might help diagnose it.

also there are members here (can't remember who) that do graphics like the brat sticker. might want to check if its easier and cheaper to just have him do a nice one for you after your done.

you could try replaceing or modifying the tensioner spring. it might just be a weak spring on a good pully. I dont know what the proper tension is supposed to be, but springs are much easier to find im sure. It doesnt have to be injected, but most cars in the US after 88 or so were injected. if your not in country, or someone has messed with it then it could be different. I dont know a good way to explain, either it has a carburetor or it has fuel injection. might be hard to tell with a SPFI system if you dont already know the difference. Just see what the timing belt does, the computer thing isnt a real likely issue.

loose timing belt would definately affect how it runs. id check into that first. it could also have been adjusted to run when the timing was a few degrees different. I dont know if you pulled out he dist or not, but sometimes just going throught the whole process start to finish and redoing the dist time, tuning the carb, etc, will at least get you to a better starting point. I would definately make sure the belt is in spec first though. I'm assuming its injected, so resetting the computer might help if you cant find a mechanical problem. it might have been compensating for worn timing components.

as long as its a matching set I would be interested Wentz. I get paid on thursday so ill message you this week and we can see whats what.

look inside and see if working the throttle cable works on the butterfly valve in the bottom. it may just be getting stuck open or adjusted to be open.