djellum

last car that I had do that was a vacuum leak. Auto or manual? when you say in gear do you mean like your putting it in drive? letting the clutch out? id imagine that its more just normal fault in the engine and its barely running. once you put it in gear it doesn't have what it takes to keep going.

yah I have seen most of those rims. I am pricing out a set of pugs right now, and someone is selling some 13 inch alloys with tires that I might pickup when I get paid. the main question is that when I was looking through the list of all the sub wheels there were 2 sizes of the normal steel wheels that I have 3 of. one was listed at 4.5 inches, and another year at 5 inches. mine have obviously been altered so I dont know what ones are on there. I didnt know if there was a way to tell them apart without measuring. hopefully I can pick up a full set of something next week, if not I will probably head up to kelso (thanks btw, ill message you during the week) It is a different offset, by quite a bit. doesnt make much sense to me either. If I didnt have to buy rims or could get a great deal on some 6 lugs I would definately do the conversion. since I have to buy rims anyway, it would have to be a great deal for me to convert.

check and see if the metal plate has all the same holes as the gaskets. theres a water jacket that runs through the intake, and I have heard that people block it off when they put webers on. someone may have blocked it off with the plate and thus needed 2 gaskets. I did the same thing with my EGR until I can go get a block off plate at the JY. you can get rolls of gasket material at the parts store. just check with them on application, but im sure they have something that will work on carbs.

I took off my hubcaps and found that I have an odd rim out. The odd one is the black one below. it has a deeper offset and is flat compared to all the rest. all the others are like the second picture, though one is all flat black instead of silver. I was looking up what rims are what and I noticed that there are 2 possibilities for the 3 rims that seem to match. they had a 4 inch wide one, and a 4.5 inch wide one. is there any distiguishing marks as to which is which? I have tires on them all so measuring would be rough, but I want to make sure that my rims are the same size so I dont wear tires crooked. also before I get tires I am going to need to match the 4 rims so if anyone has 1 to replace the odd one, or 3 to replace the others let me know (I wouldnt balk at a set of 14's either since I need tires anyway). Once I figure out what exactly I have ill post something in the wanted ads.

Boxer under Glass?

O'rielys should be able to turn the drums for you, bring them along. that may have been what you meant, but just in case.

Id find out where your leak is or why it idles so high. once that is done, and the brakes/tires, then take a look at the top speed. it shouldnt struggle to do 60, I was just saying that they really arent built for 100 mph, so dont expect too much pull over 60. my first suby would do 75-80 with a tail wind, but didnt have much beyond that unless you had a long downhill slope. I was struggling to hit 65 on mine till I got the tires in order and inflated properly. now it hits 65 easy, though my clutch started slipping today.

145 ft/lb is what the service manual suggests. many other people here tighten them more, but I would say 145 at a min. you should check if you can get your drums turned. some are too thin and some can get too thin from wear, but worth it to check. probably under $20 at a machine shop or ask at the auto parts store. basic drum brake job to me is replace pads and wheel cylinders, turn drums, and clean all springs and adjusters. if anything is actually wore out like drums or springs replace them. i would do both sides at the same time if you can. if your in high gear its not going to throw you back when your over 60mph. between the power and the gear ratios the car just won't have a lot of oomph at that speed. it should still have a little left, but if your brakes are dragging, tires are low, etc, then it might not be the motor.

if you have a button on your gear shift its a single range. the dual ranges had a lever on the center console. idk if there was a single range with a console lever or not, but if you have a lever it will go up once for high range, and then up again for dual. if you search around you can probably find out how to check the casting on your trans and tell that way.

you will want a torque wrench for the axle nut, so pick up the appropriate socket. Mine was 36mm, but I have heard some are 32mm, so you will want to check with someone who knows your model for sure. as torqued as it needs to be, it is not a good idea to use an adjustable imo.

theres a fuse in the fusebox I believe that protects the pump, check it and see if its blown. also there should be a relay that cuts off the fuel pump in case of an accident, you can check that as well.

depends on what you have, but some struts have a camber adjustment built into them. also ball joints as said earlier, and the lower control arm bushings. don't forget that rims can be untrue sometimes as well. other than that idk, did anyone put different springs or struts in it? also is yours lifted? can't tell real well by the post, but if it is then lowering it down to stock hight would probably help. I wouldn't go "lowered" unless you find whats causing the problem first.

Toe in or camber? your kind of describing both. toe is the angle of the tire front to back, camber is the angle of the tire top to bottom. lifting it can mess up the camber unless it is corrected, but I don't know if it would mess up the toe. after three times the shop should notice a pattern of whats going wrong. did they say that X or Y part keeps coming loose or anything? Are they the ones that keep saying you were running too much toe in?

I don't know what compressors your looking at but there are specific strut spring compressors that are different than coil spring compressors. Just mentioning it in case. also you can rent the compressors from auto parts stores for free or cheap. you put a deposit down of the cost of the tool, and you get it back when you bring back the compressor. make sure you check the ball joints, lower arm, and the mounts where the strut bolts to the spindle.

2 things I have read when searching my problem out. 1- sometimes dirt and grime can get in between the cv axle and the hub on the inner side, which can keep it from seating tightly. once it gets washed or rubbed out there is slop. 2 - the washers on the front can wear and create slop as well. the spring washer is supposed to keep the nut from backing off, so don't trust the pin. replace the cone washer and spring washer. they are sometimes hard to come by, but I think the guy from Retroroo said he could send you some if your local dealer doesn't have some. might be worth an email to find out. look for a ridge on the inner cone washer, if it has one you should think about replacing it. also the spring washer should have a dish to it, if it doesn't its worn out for sure. I would still just replace both in case, $20 well spent on peace of mind.

Eh, my wheel stayed on. Thats a win in itself. since it came completely out, it didn't strip out the hub or ruin the axle, and the assorted washers and nuts were caught by the hub cap. Got it towed home and spent $20 replacing some washers just in case, and its back on the road. all things considered it could have been much worse. Like tonight for example when i got off the free way and noticed my motor was ticking like a crackhead in tap shoes. Thats bad.

I had this exact problem, and it was the castle nut backed off the axle shaft. right away I would at least make sure the hub assembly is tight and the kotter pin is in place. it could easily be axles, or wheel bearings, but i would first make sure its not play in the hub before driving to far. my axle came out on the highway, which could have been bad.

the cracking between the valves was always explained as commonplace to me. though eventually it can crack too deep or crack through the valve seat and cause problems. My old XT turbo finally died from them, the crack hit a water jacket and was letting coolant into the exhaust. the mechanic I have always gone too says that they pretty much all have them, just remember that they can go too deep and cause problems so watch your heat.

Whatever model you choose check around to see if it came with a LSD. I've read that the EA turbo ones were more likely than others to have it. either way don't forget to find one, I would expect it to be desirable for a wheeler.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=113969

They are called struts. theres a special tool called a strut spring compressor. if you want to be safe id start there. compress the spring and then unhook the bolts and it should come out.

Put insurance on it. tuned it up, fixed the after fire problem from leaky plastic resonators on the air pumps, disabled the EGR, pulled a few other emissions systems. Put the hub back on it after the axle nut backed off on the freeway. Thankfully my 2 brake caliper bolts are strong and confident, the wheel stayed on. Fixed some of the clunks in the front end. getting pretty stoked the more that gets taken care of. Hopefully I will get it solid soon and start saving money for the stuff that I just want to do.

the volt meter shouldn't move at all, no matter the revs of the motor. at least it should never drop a significant amount. if it drops below 12 at all something in the charging system isn't right. might try checking the ground wires. a lot of stuff can go wrong when the ground connections get old and bad. a couple of extra ground connections doesn't hurt and can help a lot with dim and dodgy lights. also an old school trick is to start the car and then unhook the battery. the alternator is supposed to produce enough to run the car + charge the battery. if you notice a change, for better or worse, then I'd look at the alternator. a parts store can test them but it doesn't always show faulty. the other part in that system that goes bad is the voltage regulator. Im betting that the one on your car is built into the alt, but they aren't always so you may want to check that. with engine speed a factor i would first throw a couple of extra grounds in the system, since its free. if that doesn't help, get the alternator tested.

The light that blinks is supposed to be on the ECU, not the check engine light itself. Cant tell what your looking at but just in case. Under the dash by the steering wheel, or in the trunk depending. Idk where exactly on yours, but make sure your looking at the ECU.

cold chisel/grinder/dremel to make the axle pin hole into a U instead of an O? if you can remove the material on the transmission side of the axle you should be able to slide off the axle and leave the pins correct. with the axle gone it would give you an extra amount of material to grab. if its soft enough I would try the chisel and hammer to just remove a tab of metal off the back of the axle. probably all case hardened, but might be worth the cost of the chisel if it gets it done before it wears out.