djellum

from a day or 2 ago http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134221 long story short was weld a slide hammer to whatever you have stuck in there. doesnt have to be a slide hammer and idk if you have enough material to weld to, but its an option. do you need to save the axle or is it toast?

terminals, caps, cracks in the case. The fumes can condense on stuff around the battery, or it could be liquid getting out somewhere. Drycells or gelcells dont have the acid, so I like them when possible. no corrosion like that.

that threads all about doing it yourself at home. Not that taking it to the machine shop isn't good, but your already attempting the home done method. there way just looks like it will give you a better finish.

came across this the other day while looking around. might be something you want to look into or ask about. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126868&highlight=glass+head

for me it wasn't the EGR valve itself, it was the antiafterfire valve that was attached to it. that piece just cuts down on the pop when your letting off the gas at higher rpm. the EGR is only supposed to kick in at cruising speeds when your light on the throttle. Detonation (the knock) is primarily when the engine is under load. closing off the EGR shouldn't cause any detonation unless there are other factors. doesn't mean your car wasn't tuned with a leaking egr and will need retuned to correct it.

I don't know what time of cel there is in there, but most local auto parts places can read them for you. some types have a method to get it to blink and tell you whats wrong with it. the car is telling you what is wrong with it, just find out what it is saying and start there. some free things to check is whether you have any air getting into the system after the MAF (assuming fuel injection in the 90). even the hose from the air cleaner should be sealed up.

I would talk to an exhaust shop. they can probably just repair what you got. most of them can do custom work and fixing a flange wouldn't be much of a trick for them. if you do need the part, just cut the part out of a junk yard rig and let them weld it in place in the exhaust you have. you don't need the whole pipe, just the broken part and a few inches on each side. they really can fab up most anything you need though. Even a basic weld/fab shop can just fix your existing pipe, likely in less than an hour. If money is a problem, try craigslist. I'm sure there are plenty of out of work welders looking to make $50

ok, no problems with the trans. the castle nut and cone washer came off, allowing the axle to back out of the hub. didn't seem to be much damage to the parts, the axle spindle had the front of the splines a little chewed up, but only about a mm deep or less. a small file fixed it easily. put it all back together and was able to drive it more or less as it was before the catastrophe. couple things noticed along the way. the castle nut didn't have a pin holding it in, and it was actually too deep in the spindle for the pin to catch it anyway. seems like its going down too deep. also when i tried to torque it, it would simply bottom out before I could get 150 pds on it. the cone washer did have a ridge at the top of it, I'm thinking its just done and I need a new one. it had a thunk when under power in first gear there for a bit. i had attributed it to the cv, and it still does it now, but the tone is different. its a deep thunk, and it goes off 3-4 times at a steady rhythm when turning or accelerating. unless something better presents itself, ill probably just replace the wheel bearing and cone washer and see if that does it. Anythin else I should check? edit - was just reading some other threads and I don't have the big flat washer (spring washer) that goes between the cone washer and the axle nut. Can someone just give me a quick rundown of the gear that goes from the wheel bearing out. just so I can acquire what is missing. from reading it looks like just he cone and spring washers and the nut.

I started it up and noticed that the passenger cv was spinning, pulled the front hubcap and the axle nut and cone washer fell out. Thinking this is the major fault. Gonna give it a visual, see if anything is obviously stripped, then probably put it back on and see if it makes noise or anything

I cant find the post i was looking at last night, but if I remember correctly someone was saying that unless you put it in low range the front diff is open. so if I pull the bad CV and run the car through the gears i should see the stub from the trans move (hopefully without grinding noises), and if I put it in low range (with the back tires off the ground of course) both fronts should spin. is there any truth to this. I cant remember where how I found the post that broke it down like that.

looking at the EMPI axles on Rockauto in hopes that its just that simple. The catalog only lists 2 EMPI axles, one set for a hatch, and one for wagon, coupe, FWD. No mention of 4wd. the hatch would be the old ea81 style I beleive, but I dont know if theres a difference between the FWD and 4wd front CV's for my wagon. Mine is an 87 5spd dual range. the description says its a 23 spline inner, 30 spline outer. anyone know what part number my axle is, or what spline count my trans is so I can make sure to get the right part?

its looking like something associated with the right side CV joint. the shaft itself looks like its sitting against the bottom of the cup instead of the middle. no news as to whats actually broken but ill pull it out tomorrow and check it. with any luck it didnt mess up anything inside the transmission.

Sorry, its an 87 wagon. Ea82 with a dual range 5 spd

Everything running fine going home from work today and the transmission goes out while driving down 26. felt like a flat tire, pulling hard to the right, got much smoother once I pushed in the clutch, but still felt like a flat. got out, all the tires are good. I checked and it won't go forward or backward at all. clutch in or clutch out I can move through the gears and nothing. tried 4wd hi and same deal. tried 4 low and I can get it to move but I hear a grinding and it pulls hard to the right. i only went about 10 ft like that, then got it towed home. i could smell some clutch, though whether it was cause or effect I don't know. Ive only had it a few weeks so I can't speak to the last time any clutch work or anything else was done. It had fluid in it when I checked a few days ago. I do know the left front CV was going out, Monday was the day to get that fixed. so main question is what is a good way to test what the problem is? I still haven't done the basics and do a visual, check the fluid, etc since its dark. tomorrow or monday I will jack it up and see if things spin. Is this commonly associated with anything. Hopeing its just a clutch or axle or something.

yah I figured out the wiper thing on my way to work yesterday. the int wipers don't work well anyway so I may try to replace it at some point. I checked the fuse able links, they are connected and wiggling them doesn't do anything. everything seems firmly connected and not corroded. the back one (black) was a little frayed on the cloth that covers the wires, and was looser than the others but pulling it didn't cause any problems. it seated back in fine. It did it twice early on the way to work yesterday, then quit and didn't give me any grief on the way home. Ill take a look at those tubes on Monday. Any special tricks or settings on those tubes or just pull out and drop back in after cleaning.

ill give that a go, when it starts acting up again. started and ran fine yesterday. gonna throw some money at the consumable parts soon anyway. The coil is looking pretty old, I might just replace it anyway and save it as a spare. I did find 2 more questions though. 1) is there a fuel filter under the dash? I have read a couple of places that say yes and a couple that say only on the fuel injection cars, etc. I do not have a filter in the engine bay, and the line does run straight through the firewall. I havent had a good time and place to get under their to check, but thats a likely candidate for having been neglected. 2) I pulled off a bit of the underdash plastic the other night to see if I could find a fuel filter, and there was a metal unit with electrical plugged into it attached to the plastic under the steering wheel. I unplugged it and didnt notice any difference in running, lights, or any other functionality change. What does this do?

if you have power steering get the one that is designed for older ford applications (DFEV?). the choke hits the power steering pump if you don't. you can beat up the power steering res or just get the one with the choke in a different place and not worry about it. You can find the correct part number and such on a search here.

hey, 87 gl wagon 4wd, carbed ea82, non feedback hitachi. my car did this to me a day or 2 ago on the way back from work. running fine, and just up and dies. starts easy and runs smooth for 15 seconds and boom shuts down. doesnt matter what rpm, and doesn't hesitate at all, just dies. got out and checked to see if something was leaking or any obvious problems, get back in, starts find and I drive 30 miles across town, visit a friend, and drive home without a hitch. today, same symptoms but won't quit it. I did put some sea foam in the tank and the oil a week ago, right before I changed the oil and oil/fuel filters. I'm worried I broke loose some crud and got it stuck somewhere. can't find my fuel pressure gauge, but I don't hear anything near the fuel pump when the key is on. is that indicative of anything? Im flat broke so the fix will have to wait a few days till payday, but I will put some fuel in it to make sure the gauge is working and its not just out of gas, but I'm sure it is reading right. Any idea where to start other than the fuel pump?

Hopefully not too insulting but just in case, make sure your on level ground and the motor is cold when checking the oil. theres a seal in the back of the engine that can leak it into the bell housing. pretty classic way to lose oil without seeing where its going. not a terrible idea to check the seals in the front either, the oil could be building up in the timing cover or something. i don't know what the blue pcv bypass is, but heater hose can be sucked closed by a strong pcv system, and from what I can remember the passenger side is supposed to be supplied with fresh air either through a breather cap or from the air box or something (assuming lefthand drive). make sure this "passenger side hose" is getting fresh air. From what I understand, fresh air into the passenger side head, and a hose from the driver side into the pcv valve in the middle. might be able to be reversed, I don't know, but you need a fresh air inlet somewhere in the system. Come to think of it I think a strong pcv system can pull oil out of the heads as well. seems like a long shot but sucking oil and spraying it back towards the cat?

Hey, making some good progress, cars running very well, making the 60 miles to work easy. Seems like the more stuff I remove the better it does. I do still need to fix the choke though. the baffle behind the carb fully opens when the cars running and it doesnt show the signs of even trying to up the idle. the whole housings loose on the carb, so Im guessing its going to end up getting a cable kit so I dont have to worry about it. Ill plug off and remove all the associated baffles. in my quest to remove all the problem systems, theres one question I havent seen plainly answered while searching. What is essential to the operation of the Hitachi carb? I have read all the articles from GD about removing things, but I dont know if there are hoses or valves that must be intact to operate properly. In general as long as it keeps running better ill keep pulling stuff off, and I would love to be able to get rid of the air cleaner assembly and all of its crap. It will get a weber in the somewhat near future, but I have to spend suspension stuff first. forgot to mention, 87 EA82 4wd wagon, carbed of course.

nothings more likely to be broken than after you mess with it. Id go back through the PCV system and see if you created a leak or allowed some of the carbon to get sucked into the valve or something. Personally i would just go replace the hose, it costs about $1.99 for some generic pcv hose and you know theres nothing in it. while its out take the pcv out and wash it in gas and make sure its functioning. also an air leak after the MAF can cause issues, Id just double check.

yes it fixed the gunshot. I removed the rubber hoses and plastic canisters that sit behind the intake, and plugged off the units by the bell housing with large vacuum plugs (as well as the air cleaner ports). this is the mod that people talk about putting quarters in the pipes or hammering the pipe shut an inch or so from the exhaust, but it was simpler this way to see if its the problem. I will eliminate the rest of the system later. Basically find out where the exhaust can suck air from and close it off. I started with the AAV, then EGR, Then ASV. looking back on it, I would do the EGR last. the car was running well so I didnt think the timing was an issue, I would look to close off the exhaust leak first, since its a simple thing to pull the parts off and see if it improves. If its running poor or backfiring out the carb thats different though.

turned out to be the ASV silencers (think thats what they are called). the black plastic canisters were leaking. one at least was actually split, but it wasn't till I pulled them both and plugged the holes that it quit completely. not bad, $2.99 for some stout vacuum plugs is a cheap fix. I will eventually remove the whole system or at least take out the metal lines and hammer them shut like is advised in other posts, but for now the vacuum plugs by the bell housing should work. Thanks for all the help though, its running pretty good right now. Some sea foam and some fluid changes in its near future should see me putting some miles on it.

seems to respond well to just using a vacuum pump, but Idk if it might be leaking out of the gasket or sometihing else involved. I pulled it last night and made a sheet metal plate to go between the EGR and the manifold so that the ports are blocked. Ill reinstall it tonight and see if it runs better. if it fixes it I will go get a block plate of an EJ car, but for trouble shooting this should have an effect of some sort. Eventually all of it will go away, I am just trying not to introduce more variables than I need to. A webber is the plan, and erasing all the other stuff. Just want to drive it a while and see whats needed before I dump all my budget into other things.

well update is that it is running much better, but still causing people to duck when I shift. removed the anti-after fire valve helped it run much better, as well as turned a few screws and replaced a hose or 2. runs good, idles good, has power, good throttle response. just goes off like a shotgun when I shift above 3k. the person i bought it from said they replaced the EGR and it fixed it for a while, but it came back. going to look into the EGR system next, any advise? I can't find any other exhaust leaks that would be providing the air for the after fire, I'm assuming the EGR can do so.