djellum

I believe loss of vacuum will cause it to switch to dash vents. My EA82 is like that, idk for sure on the older gen. Theres a vacuum can that makes up for minor variations but prolonged deep pedal will overdo it. my guess anyway.

On the linkage just inside of the throttle wheel are 2 items of interest. 1 is the choke rod. It connects to a lever behind the actual choke. If that lever is tight then the choke is probably set. Push down on the top flaps of the carb and wiggle the lever and you should feel it resease and go loose. 2 is the speed adjustment screw. Back it all the way off till it's not touching the lever. The car should turn over and pop a bit but will not start like this. Turn the screw in till it touches then go another half turn or so. Keep going quarter turns until the car starts and idles ok. Dont worry about it running great, just get it running and let it warm up fully so you can run the tuning proceedure, which is an easy google find

Visual verify that the timing belts are spinning?

I think they had some slip joint style axles that were marked as heavy duty. didnt have lateral movement in the cup, just a slip joint on the shaft. almost tried them but heard ppl have some mixed reviews. cant remember the company but I believe you can find them on amazon. supposedly had issues like normal and also had clearance issues due to the slip collar in the middle. I think thats what your referring to. best luck I have had of late is Napa remans. They are the only ones I buy anymore. might have just been luck but ive been lucky with them about 3-4 times now. I get most of my parts and bearings and such from o'rielys but not axles, same junker axles as anyone else. no idea what the difference is in the napa ones, maybe different reman factory. napa new has the same issues as the other parts stores, I get the remanufactured ones.

did you have any of the carb apart? maybe a bad or damaged float?

I cut the steering shaft apart where the 2 u joints connect, and slid a bushing center from an old toyota bin into the holes, welded it up. as long as it is close its fine, doesnt spin with any speed.

I have done quite a few in the car. couple in a parking lot. a good leather strap wrench will be your new best friend if you get one. might seem expensive, but it isn't once you've used one. cheap rubber ones are garbage, dont bother. quality or nothing. loosen the crank pulley as a first step, while all the accessory belts are still tight and help hold it. If its difficult you can prop the bar against the metal below the radiator and turn the motor over (just a bump, a portion of a second) to loosen it. kinda dangerous, best to avoid unless you really cant get the pulley to stay put or someone has over torqued the crank bolt. can strip out a crank if you go the wrong way or something. pull the oil dipstick tube (just pull it out, has an o ring seal that may need replaced), oil sender wire, fans, belts, crank pulley, water pump pulley. all pretty easy to do, they shouldnt be super tight except the crank pulley sometimes. the real tricks now. use the old belt to turn the cam sprockets, just cut it and you can get a good twist with one end in each hand. once you get close to the cam sprocket mark it will be easily turned by hand, but before that it can be tough to fight the compression stroke. take a standard deck screw or something similar and screw it into the guide hole on the cam pulley. just get it to bind enough to stay there strait, usually hand tight, sometimes a little screwdriver twist. there's a notch in the inner timing cover that you use to line it up, now you can easily see it by looking down through the notch at the screw (or whatever you use). when installing the belt, hand turn the cam to be just a touch in front of the notch in the cover. not quite 1 full tooth. the belt should slip on easier like that, then you hand turn it to the mark to take out the tension on the half of the belt that doesnt have a tensioner. the end result should be - easy belt installation, no floppy belt on the non tensioned side, and the mark should be spot on with the notch in the cover. Dont forget to turn the motor over after installing the first belt. you can start the motor after the belts are on, just to see if it runs right. You dont need any of the accessories, water pump, alternator and such if you just run it for 20 seconds to make sure its on right (id stick the oil tube back in just to be safe but dont worry about the bolt yet). saves time if theres an issue. once its all back together run it for a few minutes, then go through the timing covers to readjust the timing tensioners (theres holes but they might have plugs in them). just loosen both bolts and retighten both bolts. lets the tensioners adjust to any changes from the belsts settling in.

Did you replace the year old gas in the tank? Hiw did you clean the carb? Dissassemble or spray/soak?

If its the tuner lugs or whatever they are actually called you can get adatpers at schwab. About $5 each and theres a couple of types

I just torch heated the shaft just past the S bend and bent it at a steeper upward angle, then after it cooled heated a spot a few inches along the shaft and bent it back down. No measurement to speak of, just winged it. Had to ditch the plastic sleeve though you could shorten it

Early ej motors 1.8 and 2.2 were around 130 hp. The power has increased over time and some of the combination builds make more power. I think he was mostly speaking of the higher output ones. Not that a 40hp jump isnt still a large enough jump to strain running gear. I chose a ej1.8 for my swap, good mileage and a sizeable increase in power. Ive heard numbers thrown about saying 150 hp is what the trans can handle, but I cant speak to the truth of it. Im sure GD would know more.

Yah but not till this weekend. They wont show you much, I am not going to take it apart but ill get what I can

I dropped the full 2 inches. Once your pulling it all out to do it at all it's about the same work. I didnt want to experiment with 1 inch and find out it wasnt enough. It was pretty easy, only took a few hours, and most of that was due to the carrier noise and 4wd lever

Made it, just 6 blocks. 2 square tube blocks per side for the crossmember, I used some pipe that fit the cup in the radius rod mount to drop the trans mount. I welded a washer from the trans mount on the end if it so its dished to accept the trans mount bushing. I cant remember if I had to flip the bushings or not but everythinh but the tube and the longer bolt came from the car. Cut the trans mount a bit shorter than 2 inches, so that the rear mount for the linkage platform will still reach the threaded stud. You will need to bend or modify the 4wd lever, I used a torch and bent it by hand but I dont know what you have available. I used the stock platform stud, though it's barely enough to catch threads and lock, cut the mount shorter and you will have an easier time. I also got some noise from my crusty carrier bearing from the new angle. Had to space it out and test drive a few times till it quieted. I had to cut a little plastic off the shift knob but you cant tell in the car that its shorter. Ive never been supremely confident in the trans mount, I would prefer a block that allowed for 2 bolts. Its held for a long time now though.

In all honesty I constantly ate axles until I dropped the crossmember. The axles handled it but boots would tear in short order then followed by the axle when it dries out. I know everyone says they can handle it but not my car. Might be worn mounts or some other issue but dropping the cross worked the best for me. Also I have had good luck with napa brand reman axles. Only ones I buy anymore. I have no clue if theres a difference in where the remaufacturer is or not but they hold the best if the ones ive tried. Wont matter till you fix the boot issue, non of them run dry for long

to the OP, I wouldn't get rid of it. things of that nature are really not replaceable. id agree that the platform is fading, but theres still enough parts to keep it going for a long time. I would think that eventually a motor swap would be needed at the minimum, but that doesnt mean that the ea wont last until you have more room or time? most basic stuff is still available for them, theres only a few parts that are really achilles for them. I would buy up a couple of the problematic parts so you have them on hand so if and when they go bad your not stuck. plan for a motor swap, but until then you can still fix yours even if a mechanic cant find the parts you need. rather than just run through the EJ debate again, how about chiming in with a list of the small key ingredients that would help keep it rolling. not everything needed just the stuff to closet in case you cant source it out or the kit doesnt come with one. My list OIl Pump (can still find them, I have a new one I got less than a year ago, plus used known good ones count) the little O ring washer between the cam tower and head couple sets of factory intake gaskets a decent disty couple outer hubs with good splines Mines carb so I cant speak to sensors that he would need, but im sure theres a couple sensors to just have around if they are hard to get. while they are still around you could even pull them from a running HG car and box em up. any specifics? Also some window motors if yours are power, maybe AC lines or something. I dont know your options

using the transdapt 1 piece, doesnt seem to be the issue. after adjusting the set screw on the secondary the bind went away, now its just finding a correct proceedure for setting it (though its doing very well so im not in a panic about it).

I took the carb off and found the set screw for the secondary stop wasnt even touching, so I think it was closing too far and binding against the carb tunnel. Seems to have fixed it. Is there a setting for this? I just ran the car and turned it until I got the slightest change in idle. Didnt even throw off the normal settings, but it's not sticking

Guess im just trippin. It's the secondary linkage itself I think. You can press on the joint between the primary and secondary and feel it's bound. Seems to be the actual secondary thats the culprit. Ill keep checking if side flex or domething releases it

some update on this. got the linkage from sapper (thanks a bunch). still having some issues though the throttle opens fully now. the main issue is the linkage binds up when the secondaries just get touched by the lever that actuates them. I double checked the shaft nut a bunch of times, does it loose and tight, and the shaft moves freely until the little lever touches the secondary linkage. once it opens its free and smooth until whatever condition that causes it reoccurs (happens when driving so I cant tell yet what). doesnt seem to be binding on gaskets or the adapter It doesnt do it all the time and once you free it then it runs fine for a bit. the odd thing is that it seems to be that when you move the choke plates open by hand, even a quarter inch before you cycle the throttle then its completely smooth. I cant see anything where one would affect the other, but its worked 100%. I pull in and kill it, cycle the linkage softly by hand, bump, bump, push choke plate open another 1/4 inch, butter smooth. is there something connecing those systems that I dont know about? if I open the choke plate with the choke adjustment until it doesnt bind then its open too far and the car hesitates when lightly off throttle. thats another thing, I always thought that normal operation should be the choke plates completely vertical but this guy doesnt want to run that way. stock setup from the factory the choke once kicked down is still pretty closed and even at fully warm its only open 1/8 of and inch or so, though it opens once throttle is applied. runs beautifully this way though, if I open up the choke fully vertical even at full temp kicking the fan on it stumbles badly at light throttle. the instructions say to pin the choke fully open to tune in the motor, which I do, but then they come mostly shut again. I have no idea what is causing these two issues to seem connected.

you cant verify it with a stick, plug your finger in the hole and feel for the pressure poping your finger out of the hole. remember when you installed the timing belts? you moved the motor 1 full turn to install the second belt but the cam only moved a half turn. that means that you have to get the piston at top dead on the stroke that matches the cam cause it comes up while the other side is firing. pull the spark plug and verify that its on compression stroke for number 1 and see where the rotor is at.

Are you sure of tdc, did you verify it was a compression stroke?

What was your proceedure putting in the dist?

to get the timing belts just right I usually clock them 1 tooth back from having the mark just right to install the belt, then I hand clock them to take the slack out of the side opposite of the the tensioner. once you let the tensioner go both sides should be decently tight and the mark will be strait on target. I just mention it cause the belts can be off just a little bit and its not obvious cause the tension side is tight. doesnt hurt to double check them, its a pretty quick process. again just in case, how did you verified tdc before installing the disty? it runs off the standard degree marks instead of the belt marks, and it can be 180 depending on the position of the cams. Id reinstal the belts and distributor. tdc should be pointing back towords the number one spark plug wire, which I beiieve is the way you have it towords the hill holder, but the number one piston may be 180 degrees out. maybe double check firing order?

yah, Im down to try it, cant find my stock one though. I thought I saved it with my parts box but I guess not. Anyone have one around I can pick up?