djellum

Ive used a really small wheel, though it wasnt a stock one. The cable stop was only about 1/8 - 1/4 from the shaft, and it still didnt open. Ill try the stock one though, going to get one now

so the stock pedal on my 87 ea82 wagon wont fully open my weber. It gets just to the point that the secondaries want to open but don't. it was that way on my dfv and dgv, and even with a smaller linkage closer to the shaft its not anywhere near opening the secondary. Has anyone had a similar issue and what was your fix? I either need to allow the pedal to return closer to the firewall, or fab up some kind of lever or gear to allow the cable to pull farther than the pedal will move normally. The pedal is lower at rest than the other pedals but it seems to have a normal amount of movement. Going to look at it in the morning, thought I would get a jump start and see if its more common than it seems.

Sorry, didnt add the next lines and wont let me edit it

Stuff to keep around in case Outer hubs if the splines are good Headlights that dont draw condensation Vacuum advances that hold pressure, maybe a whole disty Fan relay if all speeds work Working dash clocks Door toppers that are in good shape Drive line if the cartrier is tight Oil pumps that held pressure

also loosen the radius rod to help with flex to do the ball joint.

the 3 marks for timing belt install as said when you get to distributor timing there should be a diagnostic plug that I believe you have to connect for doing the base engine time (on the timing marks like a normal motor). should be in the manual if its there, just mentioning it in case.

gotta be the striker. move it farther. also make sure its really tight when you close the door to check the fit or it could get pushed around.

just mentioning in case, there are a couple different EJ22 head phases. search around here to make sure you know which generation you have. with the EJ in it I wouldnt worry about the tire size. dual range is nice and Id definately do that, but just get the tires you want now instead of later. I have a tired ea82 and a little over 25 inch tires and it has no issues. if your gonna build the lift yourself I would go a bit higher. Id say 27's are pushing it with a 2 inch. you can cram more, but I personally like to leave room for chains and such. do the full cross member drop. 1 inch wont make much difference and it is much nicer on the axles (and for installing them) look into getting peugeot wheels. they are the only real way to get 14 and 15 inch rims with our lug pattern. opens up all kinds of tire options.

I managed to wedge mine in. that's the big issue with that style of lift, the rear inside block hits the tower. one thing that helped me was to put the inside rear block in crooked first and get the bolt on but not tight, then rotate it into place with a bar and do the others next. you may have to grind the corners of the block to get it to twist. either way before you tighten them down make sure that block is lined up in place. I heated and bent a cheap wrench so I can tighten the lower bolts while its installed. also I just swapped the ball joint while I did this, cheap and makes it easier to do the install, but a floor jack under the hub assembly and guide it up into place.

don't know on hubs, id say ebay or junkyard would be the most likely. I found some good bearings recently at O'rielys. they were American made and well built.

If you do the style in the pic with the double rings and the center pipe between, you can rotate the lower mount a bit to help clearance. Lets the rear inside bolt stay farther away from the inner edge of the shock tower. The upper half of the mount is a forward facing triangle, the bottom is a sideways facing triangle (facing out). The center is still angled to the inside, you just spin the bolt holes.

Ive done a couple weber swaps and if you have a new hitachi id finish the full instal. Webers are fine and simple but the biggest benefit is replacing a worn carb with none worn one for cheaper. I wouldnt eliminate any of the hoses attached to the carb, almost none of them are truly emmisions related, they are there to make the carb work right. First things first you need to make sure which hitachi you have. There are feedback and non feedback, and they are a little different ea81 vs ea82. Its hard to see on my phone but i believe the bowl vent is the largest port on the upper right side of the first pic. Its simple to hook up, just hook it to the charcoal canister and supply proper vacuum to the canister, even if other stuff is plugged. The first widget is the thermo vacuum valve and will end up hooked to a few of the front ports (should be on the vacuum diagram sticker in the motor compartment). The second plasric canister on the fender in the other pic is the anti afterfire valve. Id remove it. It is there to keep the engine from making poping noises while coasting off throttle. By now its probably failing and causing leaks. On that note spray this, the canisters, brake booster, etc for leaks. All i got time for right now, you can find diagrams somewhere here

I just heated the shaft at the first bend and bent it more vertical, then heated and bent the second bend to lay it back out flat. had to trim the plastic sheath but it worked well.

do you have the ASV system still hooked up? i would doubt it but that system can introduce things into the exhaust depending on how its hooked up.

Low temp is probably a fail open thermostat. Try replacing with a genuine factory one. The parts store ones have more of a tolerance, and the subaru ones arent terrible expensive. Heater wont work well if the water temp is low. Fix the temp problem first. Heater not changing positions is likely vacuum related, make sure you didnt unplug it when you were under the hood

as long as the strut has movement then you can remove the lift block and let the strut and spring do the lifting. I dont know if the spring needs cut since I havent done that mod myself, but sometimes they do. you will have to check the write up. also double check the write up to make sure they are talking about 4wd cars, there was some stuff around about the differences for 2wd and 4wd.

most of the rebuild kits on ebay or other engine kit sites include pistons. find one and have them double check the compression ratio, or dial down your turbo and use higher comp pistons.

maybe the stock bolt through the lower bushing is too small? if its got play you may be making a bang everytime the suspension gets force in an oppsite direction. also maybe the top nut too loose. if it hasnt compressed the spring enough it can make noise or bring it out of position.

there are a few shops in the area that are part of the community here. I believe Gloyale has a setup south of Oregon, Scott in Bellingham is who runs SJR and makes most of the swap adapters. If General Disorder is still around he has a shop local and may be willing to do it. Last time I talked with him it was around $2500 parts and labor for the swap, but that was turn key and he knows his stuff. No idea if hes still around, was a couple of years ago. the basic swap is doable by any decent mechanic, but make sure whoever does it can trouble shoot well. That means having the knowledge and tools to find the actual problem. With any custom work like this you have to narrow down issues or you will be chasing your tail till rapture. the basics of what you will need to do are obtain an EJ, with full wireing harness and computer, and exhaust manifold transmission adapter plate, machined flywheel (SJR sells a kit) What clutch you use depends on flywheel and transmissions used, might be an odd model but everyone I've seen uses a Subaru one of some type (EJ, XT6, etc). most people have the wireing harness stripped of all non used wires. of course many things may need replaced such as hoses, cables, and such. plan on some exhaust work and light modifications to fit the motor mounts at least. I would try the above mentioned people to see if they would take on the project, or maybe recommend a member locally. I cant remember his online tag here but there's someone who does a lot of mod work at a small shop off of sandy and I205. would be a good place for parts if nothing else. If I remember right its just north and west of sandy and I205. its an older gas station with repair bays, will have a ton of Subaru's in a gated area outside. Again its been a while so no idea if they are still there or active.

you really need a fuel pressure gauge. not one on the car, get a hand held one at harbor freight or something. should be under $10 for a basic pressure gauge, it only needs to go up to 20 or 30 psi. the most important tools in your kit are the diagnostic ones.

double check your grounds for the ecm. I dont know specifics but if the ecm detects wonky grounds they wont activate on some of them. I heard of Nissans that had issues because the case for the ecm lost ground from rusty bolts,

the cross member drop is easy, its just nuts and bolts and a floor jack. the most problematic part is the 4wd lever, that will take a little more effort. I ran for about 12 months with no cross member drop, and chewed up about 4 pairs of used axles (they were good non clickers, but were used). the axles actually seemed to handle it well, but the boots didn't. even with the lower band loosened they would split and sling their grease, soon after to start making noise. at least one of them was a recent purchase from a parts store on my other sub, so it was only a few months old, but still went the same way. I would drop the cross member the full 2 inches if it were me. if its a wheeler then sure, but for daily keep everything the same. even with the full drop on the cross member there is a ton of clearance due to the independent suspension we have.

I ran it for a about 30 seconds with everything off of the front, no pulleys or covers on it just to make sure it was tracking well. I dont remember if I reset the tensioner afterwards though, ill have to check.

are you carb'd? if so then that's way too much pressure. sounds like you did your research, just throwing it out there.

well its together and running fine. just did the one belt on the cheap, hopefully I can get my new motor on line before the other half breaks or one of the tensioners blows up.