djellum

Depending on how high the lift is there can be very little room to cram it in there. Might take some prybar massaging

ok, no idea where the linkage came from. ill try finding the swiss cheese one you speak of. any issues with it being so close to the center?

if its an authentic sjr lift then you probably have the blocks backwards. the bottom should angle in towords the shock tower. if its a home built you have to offset the top and bottom of the lift block to fix the camber.

Hey, so I finally got around to fixing my throttle linkage. it was a mess of cable ties and lamp parts. got it all in, fabed up a new mount for better angle, and got a solid cable again. main problem is that the normal throttle cable doesnt move enough to fully open the weber throttle. When the pedals on the floor, it will get barely to the secondaries, but wont open them. any elegant solutions to allow it to turn more fully? it needs to go another full inch. the only way I can think of doing it simply is to use a smaller diameter carb linkage, but its already not a huge one so I dont know if it will do the trick without stressing the cable from no leverage. do they make a geared cable linkage of some sort? maybe a gear on the carb and a bar with teeth being pulled by the cable so I could get better than a 1 to 1 pull? I think it will almost need to be a 2-1 ratio from the pedal to the carb linkage.

They arent automatically out of emission specs, just in certain areas.

be cautious with weber conversions, check your local emissions laws. they are not legal in many states/cities/areas. I have a couple of them and run them happily, but I dont have to emission my rig at all. as long as your hitachi throttle shafts are tight and good then the carb is rebuildable. if the shaft has too much play then its largely junk. +1 on loving the weber, just make sure you can license your car afterword.

Whats the best place to source out an oil pump? I havent started researching it yet, but while the subjects fresh ill justask if theres any brands, stores i should avoid?

Yah, were talking about going back to bearings and checking our work. Yah its noisy but its noisy all over and we checked the sending units on my old running motor so were for sure getting extremely low oil pressure, especially compared to what it was. It quiets down if you give it some rpms, so i really think its an oiling issue

We checked them, but may have had the wrong tolerance in mind. They all compressed, but very slightly. Some a bit more than others though. The motor was one that ran and ran well before we pulled it. No ticks, good pressure, etc. Origionally i was,just gonna have him do head gaskets and timing set but we decided to do the whole buiness while we were at it. I cant see how an oil pump can go bad while it was sutting there unless its a seal issue. Can you check the front shaft seal? Hit it with some air and see if it leaks?

Yes, i found multiple threads on this site about it. 85 and 86 had orings and they upgraded them to the metal ones later. They fit just right when we put them in as well.

ugh bad day for it today. so since we didnt use the right orings between the cam tower and head, we pulled the engine back out and installed the right subaru direct rubber/metal washer seals. also checked the relief valves and all seem normal. put it back together and it ran like spoob till it died (likely a broken timing belt). still clattering, still low oil pressure so new oil pump seals (shaft seal, mickey mouse seal, shaft o-ring), checked all the relief valves, correct cam tower o-rings, and still noise. symptoms are low oil pressure and constant medium level motor clatter. so were going to put my old motor back in so im drivable for work, and take another look at it on the stand. check the individual lifters, and do some more research. may attempt a new oil pump but I dont like just throwing parts at something when I ran the parts on it now for a long time.

Was just about ready to hit send rdweninger... so reading some more were wondering about the orings between the heads and cam tower. pulled the oil pump yesterday, seals looked good, relief is in good shape, ball bearing is there and springy, nothing mechanically wrong that we can see, reinstalled with some new seals that fit better than the ones from the kit, and same issue. also it was ran for quite a while by me in my other car and when I parked it there were no ticking or oil issues. we didnt buy seperate cam tower orings and I read that they dont come in most reseal kits. our next bet is that we have the wrong orings there and its causeing issues. going to pull the cam towers today, so chime in if theres anything else we should check

Ill check for the ball behind the filter before we pull the pump. We only took the pump off, pulled the 2 orings, cleaned it and reinstalled. Where is the relief valve at?

Hey, fresh rebuild on an EA82. starts right up nice, but ticks and reads very low oil pressure. havent tested with a good pressure gauge yet, but Its plainly obvious that the oil pressure is actually low, even if the gauge is crappy. it reads 0 and ticks, if you give it a decent amount of gas it will go up to about 20ish and quiet down for a few seconds, then drops again and starts clattering. havent run it for long for obvious reasons. the Oring for the oil pump (normal large oring, not the mickey mouse one) just didnt seem to fit well, and may have gotten damaged during installation. the oring on the one that was pulled out was very flat and wide, but the new one was nice and round but fit extremely tight when installing the pump. is the true factory oring a special one, or was it just flattened by time and we just messed it up on the install. this is my go too problem for right now, but is there anything else to check that can cause low pressure? the pump ran good pressure before the motor was pulled, the only thing changed is the seals. im guessing the most likely cause is the seal sucking air, since it will raise pressure if rev'd, but just wont maintain it or get high enough. are their any adjustments on the pump? plan for tomorrow is a subaru dealer oil pump seal kit and a look see. is there anyone with experience with it that can testify that they dealer one is better or special than a standard oring?

could cut a piece of plexi glass, metal, etc to fit the center. just epoxy it in. if it were me Id get the subaru star pattern cut out of something and glue it in.

I think the rods your talking about are the radius rods. they go at a angle from the lower control arm to the frame under the door area. they keep the lower control arm from wandering too far back and forth. most people don't drop them for smaller lifts, but I would get them at least close to the full drop. without knowing exactly what amount of material you have id say 3 inches on all struts and the engine crossmember, 2 inches on trans mount, radius rod, carrier, and rear diff. 3 inch xmember drop means little stress on the axles, 2 inches or less on the trans means minimal modification for the 4wd linkage, 2 inches on radius rods will keep the suspension more stock without hanging them down too far. rear axles are a little more forgiving since you don't use them often and they don't have to turn side to side. the 1 piece driveline could be made at any driveline shop, but nothing wrong with the 2 piece as long as it works. watch out for the angle though, carrier bearings like to work at certain angles, and straight isn't always best.

best bet is to drop the crossmember down lower to relieve the stress on the axles. at 6 inches of lift it must already have some crossmember drop, so if its not enough you will have to add it. some people leave them a little more stretched than stock but even a couple of inches can cause you problems so I would drop the crossmember the full 6 inches. axles are a pain to get as far as good quality, don't be surprised if you go through a couple before they hold up.

some people on the XT forum used to build these up. some of the starting mods that weren't listed already were.... exhaust temp gauge. lets you monitor the heat and pull your foot out of it before there are issues. better fuel injectors. there are only a few types of injector, if its the same style of injector it will fit so you can get injectors for a car with higher hp and swap them in. injectors are rated for HP, and the stock injectors are rated for exactly what the motor produces stock, so look at getting some higher output ones. at least with these and the inner cooler and exhaust you will have all the basics to not blow anything up unless your not paying attention. then you can tweak with it and actually have some real info. you really need to watch for and eliminate any lean condition in the combustion.

lady at work had a honda del sol that was pretty nice. had a broken window switch which she asked me to come instal the new part on my day off. tells me at work that I don't need to come fix it cause the car was stolen. Cops find the car a day or 2 later and give it back to her, with no significant damage and the window switch fixed. turns out a bum had stolen the car (since the window was cracked open and wouldn't shut) and was sleeping in it. since it was cold out he put the new switch in so he could roll the window up. cops caught him and gave her car back in better condition that it was stolen in (never asked about the ignition, probably screwdrivered it)

plastidip comes in both liquid for paint sprayers, and in rattle can form. no idea about where in your country they would be, but here most hardware stores will carry at least the pre-canned version. The cans are about $10 each, would probably take just over 1 can for your rims. Ebay and Amazon will have it for sure. if you strike out completely I could buy a couple cans and ship it to you. you would have to pay the shipping of course, and I don't know what that would be or if its worth it. my thoughts are black out the rims, then paint the angled portion of the cutouts yellow. looks like theres a good two inches of material there that is at a very steep angle and would help draw the eye to the star pattern. either black with yellow cutouts, or aluminum with black cutouts. heres a picture of a jeep rim with a similar style to what I am thinking.

I was editing that post a lot trying to figure some attachments out, if something doesn't work let me know

Im not a fan of blackout rims, especially with such a bright car. I like the 2 tone ideas, black and yellow, or black and just brushed aluminum. no polished imo, too blingy. Id pick up some plastidip and use it to mock it up. just mask and spray. its a very durable rubberized paint that won't easily scratch and peels straight off without much issue. get some black and some yellow and play around with it. I don't know if you have seen it but heres a run through of it, some of the info you will want is in the middle so try watching the whole thing. I have done some decent accents on body panels with it. i used it to black out my hood. masked and sprayed it, then took some pinstripe and ran it around the edges just to keep it from peeling up (its sturdy, but you can work up a corner fairly easily). very popular for rims and since you are in fairly rugged terrain being able to remove and redo the rims yourself might be handy provided its tough enough to last long enough. one thing I have found is exposed edges are tricky. I solved it by using some pinstripe right along the edge to stop it from getting a peel started Heres a pic where you can see the hood (still have to do the small pinstripe around the outside, and you can kind of see where I blacked out the center of my pugs.

id ad sway bar bushings, and the strut mounts with the top bearings are a separate part if you want to replace that as well. I wouldn't replace axles or calipers if they are functioning correctly, but I might look at new rotors. im a pretty firm believer in not replacing parts cause they are old, only replace them if they are broken or worn. Id inspect everything down there, but only replace the parts that are at the end or close to the end of their lifecycle. if you do take everything apart and are replacing stuff, take the time and effort to get new cone and spring washers for the outer axle nut, and inspect the hubs carefully since they are a problem area.

I might be able to help during the week. a pic of the area would help. I would be concerned that my portable setup may be inadequate since its a 110v unit, but id have to see the area. where in portland are you? I live in washington but not terrible far from the bridge, so I would do it for gas money as long as everything lines up. ill pm you my number, give me a text or call.

yah ill pull the motor apart first and have him make sure what size we will need