dlm5774

4 years ago I had to do the head gaskets on my 2008 Subaru Outback. Now, 30,000 miles later they need doing again and I need a new catalytic converter. The car only has 132,000 miles on it but it’s pretty much covered in dings, dents and such like. I’m looking at $4,000 for these repairs and I’m due for a major service and new tires. I’m not sure if I should proceed as it’s really frustrating to be doing the head gaskets again. Is this something that is going to happen every 4 years? TIA.

er-umm-er. Cars are not my thing (can you tell !). I'll check it when the car is idleing. Thanks!

1998 2.5L outback, 139K. Changed the coolant over 15K ago. Temp gauge is normal. I popped the hood to check the coolant level right after I shut the car down and noticed small bubbles comming up through the coolant. In addition the reservoir level was several inches above the fill line. Is this normal? Or is this a sign of a head gasket issue? If so, I'll cry...already got 4K into this car so far this year! Thanks

I'm looking at upgrading my 1998 2.5L outback with 139,000 miles to an 02 Outback 3.0L H6 SFI DOHC 24V with 90,000 miles. Does the 02 have any known engine problems like the 98 does with the head gasket issue? Does anyone have the 3.0L, what kind of gas mileage does it get? Are you happy with the car overall?

Hi all, I had the timing belt replaced on my 1998 Subaru outback, 2.5L last month @ 137,000 miles (also done at 60K due to an oil leak). I asked the Subaru dealer that was doing the work to also replace the water pump because it's original and I plan on keeping this car for a long time. The dealer told me there was no need because they rarely fail. I questioned him about it and he assured me that it was a waste of my money to replace it, so I didn't. Subaru dealer did replace the cam/cranks seals and valve cover gaskets/grommets because I had oil leaks. Total cost was $900. After reading all the messages on this forum, I'm a little pXXXXXd off with the dealer because everyone seems to agree that replacing the water pump should be done with the timing belt, especially if the car has high miles and you plan on keeping it (which I do!). What are the odds of my water pump failing? What signs should I look for to minimize further damage should it happen? Should I go back to the dealer and request they install a water pump with minimal labor charge? I appreciate your thoughts on this.

Well, I do have to replace the passenger side wheel bearing! My local mechanic is 100% convinced it's because the nut was not tightened to the correct specifications when I had the brake job done at Firestone. I suggested a used hub, but the mechanic won't guarantee the work if I go that route and I don't want to try and save a few bucks only to find I have trouble all over again. I just want things done right this time around. Total cost is about $500. The garage that did the original brake job is not helping the situation. They are over 50 miles away and told me I need to take the car to them first. It's not driveable and they won't reimburse my tow truck costs unless they do decide they are at fault (what are the chances of that happening?). I'm going to have my local mechanic do the work and document everything. Then I can send all the info in to the company headquarters to try and get some kind of compensation. Lessons learned...you get what you pay for! I thought I was getting a good deal getting my brakes done at a Firestone! But in the end it cost me over $750 for a new set of rotors and brakes for my front wheels, not to mention the hassle. In addition, Firestone's customer service is pathetic! Their manager laughed at me when I explained the situation and told me that because I had put about 10,000 miles on the car since they did the brake job, there was no way the incidents could be related.

Hi, I've got a 1998 Subaru Outback, 2.5 About 8 months ago I replaced my front brake pads & rotors and also had a new front right axle shaft (CV) installed. As I was driving home today my ABS light came on and the car started making an awful grinding noise. I stopped at the nearest mechanic and told them what happened, the history of the car...etc. They took off the front right tire and the mechanic said that the nut that holds the rotor in place came right off in his hand! The rotor is all marked up because it wasn't held down tightly. He said that whoever diid the brake job/cv work didn't tighten the nut properly. Now they have to replace or regrind the rotor, check the pad, and check the left side too. I was also told I may have to replace the wheel bearing and the ABS senso, depending on how extensive the damage is. This is all double dutch to me! Is it possible that the mechanic that did the brake job didn't tighten the nut and now 10,000 miles later I'm seeing the effect? Am I going to have to sink a bunch of money into fixing this - Does anyone know what a new front wheel bearing + labor costs? Is there another explanation as to what could have happened? The mechanic said it was "poor" workmanship. Is he right? Thanks