mikeshoup

GL-10 shouldn't have a sealed beam as you're describing. It has the composite lenses. (A sealed beam is a headlight that you can purchase in one unit as lens and bulb) Many have tried baking the lens to separate the two halves, then resealing the two halves together.

I wouldn't trust either of those production numbers with out asking them their sources. SoA may never have actually published production numbers. And I find it hard to believe that less than 100,000 BRATs ever existed in America.

I have some 185/80/13 Coopers on my Turbo Wagon. Great tires. I like them lots. But yeah, 185/80/13 is the largest 13" tire you'll find.

xt6.net has moved to http://subaruxt.com/forum What happened was the original leasee of the domain (AustinXT6) paid his renewal fees, however the registrar in charge of the domain went defunct, and didn't actually renew the domain. If you want to understand more, look into the registerfly scandal.

Any lose / cracked PCV hoses? The oil cap is on, right? It sounds like a massive vacuum leak (which a vent in the PCV system would cause)

SPFI runs at 20 as well. Play with the distributor. Mine took forever to dial in 20 degrees. Also, make sure you're doing this with the green diagnostic connectors connected. If you want to run 25 degrees, try a higher octane gas.

The sensor in the radiator is only to turn on the fans. You're looking at the incorrect one. The sensor you want is in the thermostat housing, on the side of it. It'll have two wires leading off of it into a green plug. THIS is the temperature sensor you're looking for. There will be one other temperature sensor with a single pin on it. This is the gauge one.

Legacy one won't work. Different resistance range.

You'll need to have a shop evacuate and pull a vacuum on the A/C system. Then you can retrofit it to R-134a and recharge it with that. R-12 (which is what all these older soobs use) is illegal to manufacture and can only be handled by licensed professionals. So, its not worth it.

Can you still "feel" the turbo? IE: When you floor it, is the acceleration flat and then ramp up, or is it just flat? It could simply be that the light is burnt out.

I bought my last EA82 radiator on eBay of all places. Again, unknown brand, but it only ran me $60. It works great. I've got two from these people: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230159648838 I've got two different versions from these guys though, one had plastic end tanks, and the other had metal end tanks. Both work great.

As long as the tranny isn't shifting funky, its fine. It definitely sounds like the breather hose.

EBay will provide you the phone number of the auction winner. I forget where it is, but you should request the winner's phone number and give them a call before going to the second bidder.

Dunno how much this will help, but... When I was reattaching the trans crossmember after tightening the flywheel down on my 1984, I had to loosen the bolts on the radius rod plates so they were free to wiggle, then I was able to wiggle them enough to get the crossmember to bolt up.

The 4WD not working and the vents not switching both point to vacuum problems. You have a vacuum leak somewhere. Both the 4WD solenoids and the hvac controls work off of vacuum. Check to make sure all the vacuum hoses are plugged in right, and you have no holes. Fix the fan speeds not working by putting in a new resistor block. Post in the wanted forum. Someone's got one. The axle problems are quite common. Get from a reputable brand (GCK), or order some remans from MWE. By reman, I mean they're practically brand new. MWE has a sale on his axles, look in the vendor forum. Exhaust gaskets keep blowing out eh? Well are you using the OEM gaskets? Those are the only ones I've had that didn't blow out. The problems you're experiencing are easy to fix.

Me needs to put the quad headlight setup on me coupe. Me likes the quad headlights more than the composites.

Its the radiator.

It probably came from like an 81 DL? I'm not sure if BRATs ever got them, but there was a model that came with a single barrel carter-weber carb. Find a Hitachi.

I would think so, because the EA81 Turbo is supplied directly off of that line. There's nothing special in the line running to the turbo.

While the method the dashes read the sensors resistance is different, the design on them is the same. I've taken enough electrical engineering courses to know that nothing bad is going to happen from interchanging the two. Both sensors are just simply variable resistors. In fact, there was a person on XT6.net who installed the digital dash into his XT6 and changed out the fuel sender much, much later. He experienced no fires in the gas tank. Only difference, the digidash didn't read the fuel tank level properly (the tach didn't work, but that's an entirely different story).

While you're doing the timing belts, I'd address all the possible oil leaking spots on the front. Get new camshaft seals (there's a shaft seal, then an O-Ring), new front crank seal, then the oil pump seals. May also want to replace the water pump while in there. FYI: You have an 88 Coupe. If you call it a hatchback, you're gonna get a bunch of people telling you it doesn't have timing belts. I remember going through it before though. Plus, when ordering parts, order them for a station wagon for the same reason.

+1 Just slap your Turbo on Phil and call it good

ER27s don't have rev limiters. None of the EA/ER series engines do.

Test your current one before trying to find a replacement. May not be bad. (Mine only failed after 230K miles) To test it, you'll need water, ice, a stove (or hot plate), a thermometer and an ohmmeter. Put it in water of varying temperatures. Measure the resistance across the two terminals. The values should be: 14 deg F : 7 - 11.5 kOhm 68 deg F : 2 - 3 kOhm 122 deg F : 0.7 - 1 kOhm If it checks out, its good. FYI: Brand new replacements can cost upwards $80. If you find yours is bunk, I'd post a wanted in the classifieds of the board.

Looking at the diagram for the oil cooler, you'll need to use the turbo supply line. The oil cooler cools the oil before it goes into the turbo. If you're not using the supply line for anything, when the thermovalve opens up, the oil runs into the cooler, and then... nowhere. Its a good idea, but you need to add that turbo of yours for it to work properly.