mikeshoup

When the engine is cold, the computer needs to see it. You have to run a slightly richer mixture of gasoline on a cold engine as gasoline will condensate on the intake manifold. Pretty much the same purpose as a choke on a carb. My engine had a terrible hesitation when cold. Replaced the CTS with a junkyard one, and it ran fine. Please note, that this sensor is different from the one for the temp gauge in your car.

Sounds like a problem with the CTS. Either its bunk, or the wiring to it is bunk. Its the sensor on the T-Stat housing with two wires going into a green plug. Drop it in water, and bring it to boiliing, making sure the resistance changes with the temperature.

That blind other drivers at night. Sure, safe for you. Not safe for the other person that's blinded by lights and can barely see lines. Hell, these silverstars that I put in probably light up the road just as much as the bright blue lights, and yet, don't blind others.

Yeah, I'm sure it is. I hate it when people blind me with their lights. Some, I can see it as they're just ignorant that they're doing it. Those who purposely put brighter lights in their car just to blind others are annoying. I especially hate driving on mountain roads at night where people use the high beams and don't switch back to the low beams as they pass someone going the other way or come up behind someone. Just a question, why is it fun to blind people at night?

You're going to find a wide variety of responses here, even with the same engines. On my EA82 SPFI: In normal city driving, I shift anywhere between 2800-3400. Accelerating onto the highway, I'll rev it up to 4500 before I shift. Flogging, I'll go to the 6500RPM redline. On my EA81 Turbo: Its got the 4spd D/R in it. This trans has huge gaps between gears. I shift at about 3500 in the city. If I'm accelerating onto a highway, I shift somewhere near 4000, and keep it in third until I've reached my cruising speed before going into fourth. Flogging, I'll take it to 5500RPM (it redlines at 6000). The engine just doesn't breath well after that. On both cars, when I'm cruising, I try to put it into a gear where I'm at 2000-2500 rpm while just cruising. This keeps the engine from lugging.

Yup, silverstars are the same wattage, ergo, you don't need to rewire anything.

Be careful with higher wattage bulbs. You'll fry wiring pretty easily. I know Phil (kingbobdole) fried a switch pod in his XT6 running higher wattage bulbs. Wouldn't want to fry the headlight switches in your Loyale. If you're gonna put in higher wattage bulbs, do it right. Power 'em off the battery with a fuse and relay. I got this coupe of mine with some Silverstars in it, and they are the best lights I've had. They help see at night, and don't blind people in front of me like 100W/120W bulbs do.

+1 Don't anyone get any false hopes that the EA82 is a *powerful* motor. Its not. Its a workhorse. Enough power to get it moving and keep it moving, that's about it. It however is a motor that just won't die. Most other manufacturers were making cars in the 1980s that can run circles around our EA82s.

Sure those are part time 4WD? I swore I read that they were Full Time 4WD. Too bad the picture of the sticker is unreadable.

I'm probably going with the CCS-100. Its cheaper. A Lot cheaper. I don't have too big of a budget for this.

You most likely got the distributor wet. The SPFI distributors have a wheel with 180 notches in it, then an optical sensor. If you get water in the sensor anywhere, it will not like you. Best bet, take the distributor cap off, take the rotor off, then take the dust shield off. You'll see the wheel and optical sensor. If its wet, let the air dry it out. Also make sure the rotor and cap aren't wet either.

If you insist on making an all inclusive list, also note that any 4WD 3AT Turbo still has the 23 splines.

There are Legacies that have a Dual Range in them in the JDM... I don't see those being worth over $10k.

So yes, you're right Daeron. I found, nestled in all of my manuals, a SUBARU Cruise Control Parts/Service manual for 1986. The turn signal stock type is the dealer add on, and the steering wheel one is the factory option. Differences I can see are: The factory option has the main power switch for cruise below the defogger, and it appears the dealer add-on's power switch is on the turn signal stock. Also, the dealer add-on uses the tachometer signal to control speed instead of the VSS. Makes that easier. Apart from that, the rest of the parts are basically the same. Sounds like the dealer add-on is a much easier option. Here appears to be the total parts list I need: - Valve and reservoir bracket - Servo bracket - Module bracket - Servo - Reservoir (the big sphere) - Wiring... appears to be a different harness for auto or manual trans - Module... must be the control computer - Clutch switch wire - Brake switch - Clutch switch - Valve body - Bead chain (this is what the servo pulls on the pedal with) - Vacuum stuff - Control switches That's a long list of parts I need. What's worse, is there are different pieces for Carbureted, SPFI, Turbo, Auto, Manual, 4WD or FWD... Its crazy. So if I can find a 4WD, SPFI, Manual with the dealer cruise, I'm in luck... *sigh* BUT WAIT! This manual I have is for an 86. 86s must have the headlight switch somwhere besides the turn signal stalk? My 89's headlight switch is on the turn signal stalk. Ergo, I can't replace it, since the cruise stalk has nothing for headlights. The audiovox unit is starting to look much easier.

I've noticed two types of cruise control units while cruising junkyards. One type (found on an 86), has the controls on the turn signal stock. The other type (found on an 88), has the controls on the steering wheel. My guess is either: A) They switched types in 87 like everything else One is a dealer add-on, the other is factory More to come once I scavenge my FSMs for parts lists and start pulling parts.

If its the 4 wire ones I'm thinking of, no. They are for the SPFI cars only. Beck Arnley doesn't actually make anything themselves. Just repackage them. Its probably a rebuilt Hitachi. Pull the disty and check the play like Gloyale said.

The actual shaft diameters are different. However, the cup and stub are the same, and they're the same length.

How hard is it to put the factory stuff for cruise control in a vehicle that doesn't already have it? And what all parts are necessary to swap over? I'm looking at putting cruise in my 89, 5spd, 4WD, SPFI. Audiovox sells an aftermarket kit for around $100, and I may go that route if the OEM stuff is difficult.

Here's your overheating checklist: Flush/Replace Coolant. Make sure radiator has no air bubbles and reservoir is at proper level. Replace Thermostat and Radiator Cap If overheats at idle, verify electric fan comes on. If overheats at highway speed, replace radiator. [*]Replace water pump Most people will tell you not to worry about the radiator. I've yet to own one of these Subarus with the original radiator that did not need replacement. The radiators develop bad cases of fin rot and get really badly plugged. Its cheap insurance.

You really shouldn't have any detectable play in the distributor shaft. Replace it, or send it in to be rebuilt. 2WD or 4WD make no difference. Same advance curve. Stick with the kind you have so you don't have to swap coil or ignitors or anything.

Not "a few". We've only heard of good stuff from one. Dima in NZ. Haven't heard back from anyone else running ATF Dexron III.

If the disty that was originally in your car worked, use that. There are different types of distributors. Some are interchangeable some are not. You say "same type of engine". Need to know year, fuel induction type, and 2WD or 4WD. All those have an effect on what type of distributor the vehicle received.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77565 Look what I found half way down the forum... Just about all the knowledge of the XT6 power steering fluid lies in that thread. No one on xt6.net besides Dima ever reported experimenting themselves with different fluids. As GD said, if you can spec the fluid, you can find a replacement for it.

And I was gonna bring Potato Salad. Phooey.

There are different cams. There's a break down of the different profiles in a thread somewhere. Carb, Turbo, SPFI and MPFI are all different, and even vary some year by year. If you're worried, you should install a matching set. It doesn't sound like a mismatch in cam profiles is the problem here, though I could be wrong. As far as the question at the end of your post, I have no idea what you said! Think through what you type before you type it. Then reread it carefully.