mikeshoup

Not a car part, but I painted my Playstation 2 red with that Krylon Fusion stuff. Its done real well, and hasn't chipped yet.

MWE Axles sounds like the company Daeron is talking about. They are remaned, not new, but they are top of the line. Might as well be new by the time MWE is done with them. The other company thrown around is GCK. New axles, and seem to be good quality too. (Me, I just pull axles from junkyards )

You've got the wrong engine for power there buddy. If you want big power, go with an EJ. You can get power cheap out of an EJ and it'll be more reliable.

Q: What did you use to punch the pin out?

From the looks of mine, its the cylinder that goes over the rod in the transmission (the piece that the pin holds on). The holes look oval shaped now. Gonna get a bolt and nut and fix it.

How the heck do you guys remove the cam seals from the support? I can't get the damn thing out.

If the pump is still rattling and the reservoir is near full, then you most likely cavitated the pump so bad its worn out. Try adding fluid, and see if it stops. Else, replace.

subarugenuineparts.com has an oil pump for $63.

Agreed. Pretty. She's so clean. Pour some oil on it immediately or your other cars will get jealous.

And after reading that study, I went into the local Checker as I had bought Pennzoil filters before. Pulled out the fram and the pennzoil out of their boxes, the bottoms were the exact same and the cans were shaped the same, minus the rubber grip. That's been a year or so ago, so it may have changed.

That's interesting. Pennzoils are just rebranded FRAMs.

My local dealer always has 'em in stock. Connie, try getting one through one of the online parts dealers. They always have 'em listed. Then when you get it, you'll have the part number and can take it directly to your local dealer and use that for ordering it. FYI: The part number for the EA82/EA81 t-stat is: 21200AA121 The XT6 is listed separately, so its probably different. Give your local dealer that number for the EA82 T-Stat if they're not willing to help you.

It sounds like the switch pod may be broken. Your running lights should stay on when you hit the headlight switch (the running light switch will pop back out). The only thing I could think of would be the switch pod.

Yours is different. All EA81 radiators are dual core. At least, I've yet to see one that wasn't. My XT Turbo loved its dual core radiator. It stayed nice and cool with it.

Early models' lower outlet is angled upward, and the later ones isn't I believe. The radiators are interchangable, but I think you just need to get a lower radiator hose to match.

Your engine wears a lot more right after your oil change. If you excessively change your oil, then your engine will actually wear quicker. I personally, change my oil every 3,000 miles if my car has just been doing city driving, or sitting alot. If its done a lot of highway miles (like trips to other worlds), I usually stretch it out further. Never had a problem. With that said, I could probably stretch it out to 7500 every time for an oil change, and still never have a problem. Do what you're most comfortable with. If you're comfortable stretching out oil changes, then by all means, do it. It will save you money and will help save the environment (hey, every little bit helps).

Isopropyl is quite different from Ethyl. They both work great as an antiseptic, but I think Isopropyl is cheaper to produce, which is primarily why most rubbing alcohols are isopropyl. Isopropyl is much, much more toxic to the human body and doesn't burn as well as Ethyl. Which is possibly why Ethyl is used in gasoline. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol - More info on it. That says twice as toxic as ethanol.

I thought OE were the blue Nippon Densos? My local dealer gave me a blue can that looked alot like the blue Nippon Denso. Just said Subaru on it instead...

Contact CCR if you're gonna get the cracks repaired. They're here in Denver and top notch in the world of Subaru engines. My rule of thumb is if I can feel the crack with my thumbnail, its not usable. Most of the cracks between the valves are fine, as long as they don't extend into the coolant jacket (and its a ways down there). Turbo cars crack more than non-Turbo cars here. The other crack to worry about is in the exhaust port, on the ridge where the two ports join. That one's major, but it also a very rare occurence.

FRAMs are just junk. Here's a good website for a decent study on oil filters: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html Here's an excerpt:

+1 I personally just use Chevron 10W-30 in all my engines. Cheap, and doesn't seem to cause any problems. And this is on numerous cars.

I ran straight ATF in mine for a couple thousand miles, then threw in regular 80W-90. My 4spd shifts just nice and fine.

Those white wagon wheels were standard in 84. Anything else was an option. My 84 T-Wag has white wagon wheels.

Instead of making up excuses like the rest, I'm just gonna say it now, I'm not going because I think ShawnW smells. There. Said it. Actually, I'm with the rest of the folks. Out of money and time. I'm hoping to go next year, especially since my cousin and friend moved to Beaverton, OR. I could go see Subarus and a good friend. What more could I ask for?

According to my 83 Turbo supplement FSM, no... I dunno what ShawnW was getting at here. I *might* be interested in the wiring harness from the ECU to the engine bay. After examining mine, a P/O got a little happy with custom wiring... I could use an unadulterated wiring harness. But then again, if yours got water in it, the contacts may be corroded and crappy... Let me know when you pull it and how much you'll let it go for.