mikeshoup

You know how I know its BGD? http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2520730 That's his poop brown wagon, and those isuzu wheels (Found that link in bgd's USMB profile)

Well, here's a question, how can I check the compression with the engine off the car?

According to Russ, this engine I got for free from him is low on compression on cylinder #1 and #4. What would cause that? How do check this? I guess I just need to start taking the engine apart and see what's going on. Also, the compression is low on all of the cylinders on my brother's car... 40,40,30,60... what would cause that? As you can see, I'm kind ignorant when it comes to engine problems. (Both of these are EA82s)

If they're both 3AT, those shafts should interchange.

Are you sure when sliding the torque converter on that you're engaging the ATF pump? Its a trick to get it to engage the pump, and can cause the TC to stick out a half inch.

There's at least one of your problems. A good waterpump won't have any play in the shaft. You need at least a new water pump.

Y'all are a bunch of party poopers. We'll have fun without you then :-p

Sweet. That's what my wagon needs. Are you still using the stock header? I would love to have a custom header for my wagon.

You probably have the 390mm rims. Tires for those rims are going to be impossible to find.

Look at the switch on the top of the steering column. I believe your problems lies there Welcome to Subarus!

Here's an easy way to find out: Hook up your timing light (shouldn't be advancing without one of these) Turn the distributor one way, see if it retarded or advanced. There you go.

If you tapped right into the O2 monitor lamp, it would work, but you'd get a blinky light while driving. The O2 monitor is named just that for a reason, it comes on when the O2 sensor sees a rich condition, and turns off on a lean condition. It'd get kinda annoying with all the crosshatching it does at cruise.

This is not correct. 180 degrees apart would put cylinder 1 at TDC when cylinder 2 is at BDC... Since cylinders 1 and 2 are the both front cylinders on opposite banks, they are sort of 360 degrees apart in physically, putting them both at TDC and BDC at the same time. 3 & 4 are 180 degrees apart from 1 & 2. Or perhaps you're thinking of sequence on the distributor? I'm talking physically on the crank here.

Actually, #1 and #2 fire at the same point in relation to TDC (since their strokes are 360 degrees apart), so you can time off of either of the front cylinders. Convention though is to time off of #1.

Not much to elaborate. Look in the back driver's side corner of the engine bay, right below the wiper motor I believe. Find the green connectors that are unplugged, plug 'em in. Start the car. (You'll get some weird things like the fuel pump cycling before you crank it, ignore this.) This will lock the timing and keep the ECU from advancing it. That's it. There's actually a whole procedure you can do with those connected to verify all of your sensors are working, and it basically involves doing fancy things to the car that normally would make those sensors activate. There's a whole procedure in a factory service manual (FSM) to do this.

Oh no, sounds like we have a Phil's Cheese Wedge look-a-like here Seriously though, looking good so far.

This is what my magical ball is gonna say the code is. Its your Vehicle Speed Sensor. In the dash, there's a sensor geared off of your speedo cable that sends the car's speed to the ECU. Does you speedometer work? If not, that's probably the code you're experiencing. Although, you typically see it on all the time, and not intermittent.

Also, since your 90 Loyale is SPFI, connect the green connectors under the hood and in the back driver's side corner of the engine bay. This puts the ECU into diagnostic mode and locks the timing.

When you do this, take pictures. I wanna fix my wagon's rump roast end being stuck up in the air.

Wait, you can do that? Oh man, I'm gonna have to save some money to do this (and put the front sway bar back on my wagon)

If you wanna follow me Phil, you're free to do so. You'll just have to keep up with my turbo wagon. Yes, well, anal exams in Linear Algebra, Differential Equations and Advanced Programming Concepts

Wait, so the EA82T downpipe flange is different? Well, sounds like you're getting things worked out though. Good luck.

One thing that came to mind, what Voltmeter are you using? If its a digital one, you're probably good. However, cheap analog meters generally have too low of impedance and won't be accurate enough. (they'll start to absorb the voltage) Digital ones are usually fine in this department though.

The 02 sensor needs to reach 600F before it works properly. This is not always easy to do at idle. The O2 sensor is self powered, and you should be able to register a voltage once it has warmed up properly. To test it on the workbench, you need a torch. Put the O2 sensor in a vice, clamp the positive lead to the signal wire on the O2 sensor, and the negative lead to the body of the O2 sensor. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. The voltage should go above 0.6V within about 20 seconds. Remove the torch, it should drop to under 0.1V within about 4 seconds. Apply the heat again for a couple minutes, making sure the voltage doesn't drop. If all of that passes, the O2 sensor is most likely good.

Shut up Jeff, you've got a shorter drive than I. You also won't be recovering from final exams! Let's meet at 11 and the parking lot right as you turn left onto Rampart Range Rd. Lucky me knows right where that is. FYI: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q=CO-67+%26+Rampart+Range+Rd,+Sedalia,+CO+80135&layer=&sll=39.377394,-105.093101&sspn=0.002521,0.005021&ie=UTF8&z=18&ll=39.377469,-105.093428&spn=0.002521,0.005021&t=h&om=1&iwloc=addr There's where it is. See you in two weeks!