mikeshoup

What time should we meet up at? I know Jeff said 10am, but that's a little early for that drive... how about 11am?

Call a parts store? Call Subaru? Look on online parts website (IE: http://www.rockauto.com) Don't make us do the work for you

This is a battle that'll never die. Never ever Never die. If you want to run open belts, run open belts (personally, I did on both my EA82s) If you want to run closed belts, run closed belts. I like being able to change the belts in a matter of minutes without fracking with the covers. I can understand though the worry of foreign objects, snow, hair, hands, etc. (Tip: Only work on your car while its running if necessary. It almost never is.)

Hot! I mean... that sucks. Good luck with that. I lived a summer with Mormons. That wasn't fun!

Hurray! Be here on the 13th, or else!

Siping is where they cut slits into your tread across the tire. I just got the last set of tires I put on my car siped. They're wearing a bit quicker, but they've given great wet traction.

What is needed is an OEM thermostat. I've had problems with Stants sticking closed (quick action type) and the NAPA ones too. Subaru T-Stats are only about $15. Get one, they're guaranteed to work for another 162,000 miles.

At that speed, the mechanical fan is moving less air than the speed of the car is. Your radiator is plugged up, or missing fins. Check it out.

They are all MPFI. Its either a swap, or an incorrect determination.

Glad to hear that you made it, twice! Just because you haven't, doesn't mean it can't happen. Its actually, quite common. My brother's three door had a radiator from hell. We tried flushing, but the damn car kept getting hot, really hot. My old 88 wagon too had a radiator from hell. Same thing, tired to flush it, wouldn't help at all. I ended up pulling its radiator out to find rows of fins missing from damn fin rot. My suspicion is that bad radiators are the number one head gasket problem causer.

Just have him put the axles in and see. Seems to me from that first video, you can see the outer CV. It could have broken which would've caused that. I *doubt* its a bad hub. When they change the axles, just ask them to inspect the hub and make sure its not bad. It should've been really obvious when they took the old one out in the first place.

And what car is this anyways? All the Subaru's I've dealt with have had the T-Stat right at the end of the upper hose...

No way to get a definitive answer with just a coolant pressure test. Need to do a compression test or leak down test.

The fact your motor was detonating on low-test means there is something wrong there. It could have had something to do with the head gaskets, and now that you changed those, you might not have a problem. My SPFI motor ran fine on our 85 octane (high elevation, don't need as high of octane though so may not be much of a sign) Sounds like the EGR is stuck open. If you have some sheet metal laying around, take off the EGR valve and fabricate a block off plate. This will allow you to at least rule it out. Otherwise, install the fuel pump and hope for the best. This doesn't sound like a tranny issue. Usually if the governor is causing a vacuum leak, you'll suck in ATF too. I know how you feel with being low on money. My wagon was overheating, so I pulled the thermostat because I can't afford the $15 for the new one, and now its overcooling... Being broke sucks.

Not the case at all. Quite the opposite perhaps, especially with the 83+ 4spd D/R.

The SPFI TB is already quite large. I'd imagine with two SPFI TBs on it, you'd get pretty large sensitivity with regards to throttle position. Probably wouldn't be streetable. Yeah, and as GD said, Megasquirt would pretty much be a requirement. It'd probably be more beneficial to find a larger TB with a TBI and make a adapter plate to bolt it up. GM from the 80s/early 90s has quite a few TBI setups. Should be able to find what you want there.

It could very well be your coil. The Subaru coils almost never fail, but they do every once in a while. My brother's did in his 88 SPFI. Similar troubles, car was having poor running condition, bad gas mileage, etc... I didn't even think that the coil could be a possibility. :-\

That RS RX project is using an EJ transmission. This is something you're probably going to have to get the WRX linkage and compare with. Seems excessive to fix shifter slop. Slop in EA82 shifters is almost always the little rubber bushings. They're fairly cheap. Get 'em from a dealer.

Someone in the past had wired the starter solenoid directly off of the ignition switch. So when I did the 3AT->4spd swap, I didn't even think about jumping the inhibitor switch. After I did the conversion, I was having a terrible time trying to start it cold. I tried everything, thought maybe the CTS' wiring was all bad. So I got to reading the FSM, I learned the ECU needs to have a starter signal. This allows it to give an extra enrichment, just during cranking. D'oh. Jumpered the two wires on the inihibitor switch, and now I'm golden. So, the EA81T needs a starter switch signal to start properly. Just FYI.

Too short of a drive to determine that you actually have low gas mileage. Average it out over the next few tank fulls. FYI, my 88 SPFI D/R got only about 22 in the city, but I could get upwards 30 or so on the highway. What kind of driving was this 144 mile trip?

No clearance problems at all. They're really only 1.5" larger in diameter. They'll fit just fine. Tirerack looks to have a good deal on those Kumhos. They're great tires.

As long as the base timing is close to 20 degrees, it shouldn't cause you that bad of running condition. The optical wheel and sensor is inside the distributor. Its underneath the dust cap right at the top of it. You'll see a wheel with 180 notches in it and a little sensor. I do not see how this could be serviceable. It really sounds like one of your ignition tune up items is in poor condition.

Pick Two: 1 - Cheap 2 - Powerful 3 - Reliable

Any EA81 Manual pedal box will work. Make sure you grab a clutch cable from the same year as the pedal box too. I used an 84 FWD 5spd Pedal box.

I'm running 185/80/13 (just slightly larger than stock) Cooper Dominator A/S tires. These have a nice tread life and not very noisy. Lose a little bit of grip in the snow, but rain and dry traction is real nice.