mikeshoup

My EA81 Turbo wagon's turn signals stopped flashing today. None of the bulbs are burned out... What would cause them not to flash? Left, Right, Hazards, doesn't matter. Don't flash.

I thought EJ22Ts were already SOHC?

Not too cheap on an XT6 ($400 for a new one... dealer only), but yes, it is a good idea.

I've heard of reaming out the hole in the control arm larger to accept the EJ/XT6 ball joint. My question, what's different about the XT6 tie rod ends than the EA82 ones?

MWE: http://ccrengines.com/mwe Top notch stuff.

I sometimes get picked on in my wagon because it bears the word "Turbo" The rear badge says "SUBARU TURBO", the front of the mirrors have TURBO in gold letters...

You can confirm it with a multimeter. Turn the knob to resistance and measure the resistance across the two pins on the injector. FYI, I believe they are low impedance.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53048

Gear oil should be somewhere around 75W-80. I have some 80W-90 that I throw in my gears. When the Check Engine Light comes back on, pull over, and look at the computer under the dash. See what the LED on it is flashing. Look up the codes: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918

Good luck with that! What do you teach? I'm currently in school to become a math teacher at the high school level.

Find the solenoid wire on the starter. The starter will have a large cable coming from the battery. Ignore that. There will be a smaller wire connected to a spade terminal. That's the solenoid wire. If you use a bosch style relay, here's a diagram for you: FYI, your car has a 3spd auto, not a 4spd. The only FWD 4spd autos in 80s Subarus were on the XT6

It is my knowledge that the Turbo heads are the exact same as the larger valved EA81 heads. Only difference is the injector bosses. You could run the EA81T FI setup without the turbo. The computer doesn't care. However, it is a much more primitive FI setup than the SPFI. Flapper MAF vs the Hotwire MAF, doesn't have a comptuer controlled idle valve (The AAV is controlled by the temp of the coolant), the throttle sensor doesn't have a pot, so there's no accel/decel enrichment, etc. The only advantage is you can run more fuel through the system because the 4 injectors can flow more than the single injector from an SPFI.

In other words: Jeff is suicidal

I would just stay away from the Loyales/anything older than 90. Those are the EA era subarus, and while great cars, definitely not the easiest to modify into a rally car. Especially the 84 and older cars as they have a rear torsion bar setup. Get just about any Legacy or Impreza, and strip it. You'll do fine.

The Automatics reverse light is done by the inhibitor switch. There should be a 4 pin plug (maybe more on the new cars) on the trans tunnel that the inhibitor switch connected to. When two of the wires are jumped, the reverse lights come on (I couldn't tell you right now which two wires it is). If you still have the old shifter with the inhibitor switch, it won't be hard to figure out which two pins the switch crosses. You'll have to run wires from the transmission all the way back to that switch.

Make sure the MAF is plugged in Check that the PCV system is sealed. This will cause the car to stall out. Have to have the Oil cap on and everything.

Fried the ECU. Unfortunately, there's no protection in the ECU from this. I'm not sure how you recover from this this. You may have blown other circuits too.

You would actually have to space out the clutch, then the accelerator pedal. The brake pedal has to stay where its at so it'll line up with the brake booster. It *might* be doable...

I saw it parked on the campus of Colorado School of Mines in Golden, about 15th and Washington Ave. I don't think they go to school here though, since they didn't have a CSM parking sticker on their window. I saw them here once before, and it was on the day of our 3 block long homecoming parade. I suspect they may be an alum, since yesterday was supposed to be our annual E-Days celebration with the fireworks show.

Yeah, but I still wouldn't rallyX it. It would get beat up pretty good if I did it regularly. No, I need a different beat up subaru.

Should work on the EA82. EA81s use the same oil filters as the EA82, so the fittings are all the same.

Aw man. I'm out of town that weekend. Anyways, I'd probably only spectate... I don't want to RX my wagon.

I went to park my car today, and what do I see covered in a little bit of snow, a cool GF! The pictures do not do it justice. This thing is pretty. I wish I knew who owned it.

You'll also need a water cooling system. Mount the radiator close to the front and use a fan on the water pump should be sufficient.

Keep in mind in this case, it is the power of the engine you want to be looking at, not the torque. Horsepower and Watts are both measurement of power. If you're going to run a 20KW generator, the engine needs to be able to produce at least 27HP. More than that due to losses (friction, heat, etc). 1 KW = 1.341 HP Assume, about a 70% efficiency. So for 1KW, you'd need about 2 HP as Daeron stated earlier. The engine at 1800RPM should be capable of producing the 40HP required to run a 20KW generator. Also, looking at Generator heads, there are many designed to run at 3600RPM instead of 1800RPM. So, pay careful attention to what type of head you purchase.