mikeshoup

From http://xe.com/ucc : 1 AUD = 0.786849 USD

I can't recall anyone who has actually tried to purchase the 5 lug parts from a dealer before. So 5 lug swap is far from over, its just we're left with not as many options. Gonna have to keep finding those XT6s in junkyards to get the rear hubs and stuff.

DIAMETER makes a difference, shaft length doesn't (By shaft, I mean the piece between the CV joint boots)

I didn't really contradict him... I just said the FWD axles are smaller in diameter. Which they are. 19mm vs. 21mm or somewhere around that. The FWD shafts are also shorter, but not by much at all. They don't make a difference. In fact, most parts stores list the same axle for FWD and 4WD.

All's that doohickey does is let more air past the throttle plate when the engine is cold. It would cause a change in MAP reading which MS should be able to compensate for. That wouldn't be the problem here.

On an EA81, what's an easy way to separate the t/o bearing from the carrier? I'm really having trouble finding a decent way to separate the two...

Pushrod? Your car has no pushrods.

All Gen 3 heads fit... Gen 3 heads btw, were not put into any production vehicle to my knowledge. Maybe in really late 89s or the 90 Loyales. Can be purchased from Subaru though. I was head shopping at junkyards trying to find these mythical gen 3 heads. an 89 GL-10 FT4WD Turbo Wagon still had the Gen 2 heads. Why you swapping the heads anyways? IMO, no reason to do so unless you have cracked heads.

Dropped in the ECU from that I pulled from the T-Wag that was at PnS for awhile. It seems to be all working now.

FWD shafts are 2mm in diameter smaller than 4WD shafts. They are also slightly shorter, but not enough to make a difference. Just make sure the axles you are using are the same diameter.

Go to msefi.com and see what the megasquirt guys have to say...

How clean are the injectors? One or more might not be atomizing the fuel as well as it could, and so its making it difficult to keep a good fuel mixture. Also, how big are the injectors? Some bigger injectors aren't able to supply smaller amounts of fuel like you might need during idle.

Horsepower is simply a measure of the power your car makes. Its not entirely measurable, however, torque is measurable easily. HP is a function of torque and rotational speed. In American units: HP = torque*rpm/5252 HP is what you want. Its what makes your car go. This is why race cars rev so high. You can make lots of HP with relatively little torque. This is also why diesels have massive torque, but low HP in comparison to a gasoline car, they just don't rev so high. Torque is all nice and dandy, but its the HP that makes your car accelerate.

Aren't hatch seats split? Maybe you could easily retrofit the hatch seats in?

I don't think this is the case. EA82T O2 sensors are after the turbo, not before it as with the EA81T. They're the same O2 sensors.

More to this crappy ness. Went out 5 minutes ago to try and start it... no go. Couldn't get it start at all. I could hear the fuel pump randomly cycling on and off, and the ECS light started to flicker... Perhaps the ECU is a piece of crap.

The mileage sucks, like all the other 3AT EA81Ts out there. About 24mpg highway if I keep out of the turbo. Any easy way to tell if a fuel injector is stuck open or what not? Also, any easy way to diagnose an electrical disty? Not like there's many EA81Ts that I can swap parts from... Someone wanna trade for a Legacy? I'm so burned out on this car. I do have all the parts for a 4spd swap now though (minus the interior bits)

I went out to my car last night to start. The car would not start. It would sit there and crank, and crank, but no start. Had a really strong smell of fuel. Came out the next morning to start it. Still no go and still a fuel smell. Pulled out the fuse to the ECU and cranked it to clear the fuel. Put the fuse back in, and it started right back up. Drove just fine. Went to the junkyard, got a couple parts, then came back home. Started it later, drove for about 2 blocks then died. Again, strong smell of fuel and wouldn't start. Pulled the ECU fuse, cranked it, put the fuse back in, and it started right up. Any clues?

The studs and nuts are available from Subaru FYI

Give them a call, they can certainly make you OEM style cast oversized pistons. Or at least get you in touch with someone who can. RAM doesn't have everything they offer on their website. It looks like to me, you can get a cast piston kit with rings from them for $222.50

I don't see 4EAT mentioned anywhere. If its a 5 spd FT4WD, and your current car is 4WD, the trans will bolt up with a swap of the diff and front axles. Engine is a bit more difficult. Crossmember, ECU, wiring, engine (duh!), exhaust upto the midpipe, replace the rubber fuel hoses with those FI rated, replace the fuel pump, etc. IMO, not worth it. Just get an EJ engine and an adapter plate.

http://ramengines.com/

Which ones? It was my understanding all EJs have a viscous center, EAs don't.

I usually don't worry about that. If the nut falls off, I usually put a second one on there and tighten it down on top of the first nut. Keeps 'em from coming off.