mikeshoup

I'm personally fond of just wrapping my hand around a sphere. Get him to make you a perfect sphere.

I have a couple on my web: http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/ But, none that seems to be relevant for you guys. If you have a manual you want me to scan in, I'd be more than happy to.

FT4WD was offered starting in 88 on upscale Turbo models, some XTs and XT Turbos, and the XT6. All of the EJ series (Legacy, Impreza, etc), are offered with AWD.

Nope, they just don't make the kits like that. An option since you bought that whole kit, cut up the top of your console to a size that'll fit the piece designed for the EA82 bodied cars. That way you get a DIN hole, AND you can fit your stereo in (a lot of stereos hit the heater box otherwise) Otherwise get a slanted console from an 82 I think. These things are slick.

There's also an O-Ring that's needed.

Common amongst who? Most true performance cars I see don't have body kits. I would work on the performance of your XT before you make it look fast. Wouldn't you rather have a fast car that "looks slow", than a slow car that "looks fast"?

Only one way to find out. I'm going to go out on a limb, and say, not without modification to either the hood or the XT. Preludes and XT are similar in shape and size, but the XT is much less curved. I think the prelude hood would look funky on an XT.

I dunno a whole lot about forced induction carb'd setups so I can't help you there. However, the SPFI might be a little strained with a supercharger. The SPFI can handle the 90HP of a stock SPFI motor easily. I don't know how much more horsepower that single little injector can handle especially since the efficiency decreases with forced induction, so you need a larger injector for forced induction engine making similar power to a n/a engine. Limit yourself to 100HP (7lbs or so?) and I think you could use the SPFI fuel system.

Since when do performance cars require body kits?

X35 over on XT6.net is in the process of reproducing the Kaminari Aero Kit made for the XT.

I'll most likely be there, sporting the T-Wag.

Only need it if the turbo light is a necessity!

Take a look in your owner's manual (if you have one). It states that 5W-30 should only be used in cold conditions, and is not recommended for sustained highway speeds. Just an FYI. I run 10W-30 all year. Doesn't blow out my seals at all.

Hm. That's during my spring break... I'll have to think about it. Probably not as the wagon will be going under surgery that week (and its my only ride really...), but who knows?

ECS light on a carb'd implies feedback carb. Long, then short. 2 long and 4 short makes 24.

I don't quite understand your question... You need to use Turbo or MPFI heads. Those have the dual port intake. If you're thinking of using SPFI/Carb heads, those only have a single port intake. Your injector setup would be, funky. What's your opposition to using Turbo/MPFI heads? Just send your existing ones off to a machine shop and have them fix the heads.

86 SPFI, and you get a code 25? 25 Throttle Sensor Idle Switch or Circuit Check the wiring for the throttle sensor. The throttle sensor almost never fails. If its never been adjusted (it rotates), then it should be fine. In the FSMs, there's a procedure on how to check and adjust the TPS. If I had an FSM for SPFI, I'd tell you what it was.

On an SPFI, the ticking at the TB is the opening and closing of the Injector. Very typical for them to be loud.

Shweet ride dude.

I wasn't talking about using the EA81T stuff... I mean to use the EA81 non turbo stuff... or is that not gonna work at all?

Why couldn't you use the EA81 power steering pump and the EA81 hoses?

Use plenty of PB Blaster or similar. You need flare wrenches for the brake lines (these are those funky looking wrench that wrap around the nut), otherwise you risk stripping out the flare nut on the brake line. Spray every nut with PB blaster and let it soak before you loosen it. You should be okay.

To make a vehicle reliable for long terms, that's what needs to be done. Steel braided fuel lines will suffice. Viton O-Rings for the injector seals would be needed. I don't think fuel injectors or fuel pumps typically have rubber inside of them... Wouldn't really need a water separator since the tanks are supposed to be sealed.

On the control arm... to fit the large ball joint, can you just drill out the hole, or does that hole have to be tapered? I noticed the hole is normally tapered... what's the reason for that? How do you enlarge the hole so that its tapered? Well, if people picked appropriate subject lines, such as "EA81 5 Lug Swap" then you wouldn't have this problem

Isn't your CTS in this pic? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/IMAGE_00020.jpg (Looking at the picture) its on the left side of the thermostat housing, has two wires coming up that lead into a black connector. If there's only one wire on that, forgive me then.