mikeshoup

154 miles to Laramie from Golden. That's 308 miles round trip. With mileage at about 20mpg in my wagon, that's $35 in gas round trip. Gonna need more from you than a heater core if I go up there.

With how much work goes into replacing a heater core, I'm not going to spend 4 hours tearing a dash apart at a junkyard just to get another leaky heater core. Jonas: That eBay heater core lists its for EA81s, EA82s, Justys, etc. I don't think they're the same, so I'm not really going to trust I'll get the right part. Thanks for trying though!

In the mornings when I turn on my heater I get a brief sweet smell. Suspect its the heater core. Where do you buy a heater core for an EA81? I found one place that has them for $119... more than I want to spend. Also, they have a separate listing for w and w/o A/C. Is there a difference? Also, while I have the dash apart, what else should I replace? Something about the heater control valve? What is that and where can I get it? Thanks!

Though you can run a water cooled turbo without water. (there was a debate in an earlier thread on this) So even if it is water cooled, you can hook it up without the water and then plumb in the water later when you have more time/money.

Bingo. Looks like it!

Since the EJ ECU reads off of the Temp sensor too, wouldn't this change the values the ECU sees as well, causing problems between closed/open loop operations?

You're welcome Gary!

Yup: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65449

Scratch that, I'm gonna correct myself. Vacuum in the distributor is highest at mid throttle. Makes sense to me now why that is.

If you can find them new, expect to pay $700 or more. I know you can get the clutch pack unit for the clutch LSDs from Subaru or NISMO (they're the same diffs) for $500 or more. Your best bet is going to be a junkyard or wait for them to pop up on the boards. They do pop up, sometimes.

I've had a couple CD players stolen in the past couple years. What I did for my turbowagon was I bought a Sony Cassette deck on eBay for about $30. Good quality deck, and if it gets stolen, I'm out $30 and the time I spent to install it. I'm also putting in an RF CD Changer that I've had. They can usually be found for cheap if you wait around. Nice thing about the one I have, is the CD changer's input is RCA audio cable. Rig up a switch, and hook up an RCA-Headphone jack adapter, and you can plug anything into it. A good option if you don't care about sound quality at all is to scour junkyards for stock AM/FM/Cassette decks. The one that was in my 88 was decent quality.

I'm going to fix that. Since I don't use the stock thermoswitch for the fans, I'm going to put a water sensor in there and wire it up to an LED. When the water drops below the sensor, a bright red LED is going to come on to tell me. Hard part is going to be finding a switch. Btw, I don't see how having a thermosensor in the heater hoses, or a sensor in the thermostat housing makes a difference if you're losing coolant.

4x140, same as all the other 80s and earlier Roos Don't get adapters. They easily break. A friend had them on his volkswagen bug, and end up breaking one of them in half. Made for an, interesting ride home.

STi's use a different rear end. It would need a little more customization to bolt up. Don't worry about teeth differences. Worry about the ratio. On the older diffs, there's a tag on the rear that will say 3.700, or 3.900 or 4.111 to say what ratio it is. You need to find a rear diff that matches the ratio you have. STi's have a different gear ratio iirc. What you're looking for is probably going to be a 3.7 or 3.9 (rare) CLSD from an 80s Subaru Turbo, or a 3.9 VLSD from an early turbo legacy. Good luck.

Correct, adding a resistor would decrease the readings. So you need some way to decrease resistance. Perhaps, an anti-resistor In all seriousness, the best way I could think of doing it, is plumbing the EA temp sensor into a heater hose some how. If you have access to parts from an EA81T water cooling kit, they relocate the water temp sensor to the heater hose. Could use the piece it has.

The carb'd distributors advanced based off of how much vacuum there is right before the throttle plate. At closed throttle, little vacuum at the port, little to no advance. At full throttle, lots of vacuum at the port, and so high advance. If you really want to make sure it advances 'fast', just clean up the vacuum canister and the actuator on it. However, you'll be surprised at how quick the reaction time is on the advance. As for more advance, you can advance the disty by a few degrees and make sure there is no ping. Running premium fuel will allow for more advance. Or you can have your disty recurved.

Interesting, I've got no diagrams for a coupe either in my 84 FSM :-\ I've also noticed, the 84 FSM is missing wiring diagrams for most of the accessories. The 83 FSM I have has more complete wiring diagrams (but doesn't cover TURBO).

Rear door speakers are 5.25, right?

The d/s is 3x5, and the p/s is 4x6. 3x5 speakers are near impossible to find, and 4x6 won't fit in the d/s. Best is to go with a 3.5" round speaker and make some sort of adapter.

The donut rim is not meant to handle daily abuse. They are easily bent. Wouldn't want to use one for anything but a spare.

You need Turbo axles. Get axles for a GL Turbo Wagon. They need to be 25 spline inners. If you get 'em for a regular dual range, they will not be the right axles. The RX has a 25 spline dual range vs the standard 23 spline dual range.

First off, what year is your EA81? Second, if you're going from an 83+ 4spd to a 5 spd, the difference in the final gears is not much at all. If you go from an 80-82 4spd to a 83+ 4spd or a 5spd, the difference will be noticeable. Don't worry about running your engine at 3500 down the freeway. I've had numerous cars that was typical engine speed for the highway, and the subarus are no exception. They can run at 3500 all day long without breaking a sweat. Hell, the aircraft people run 'em at higher speeds for longer without trouble. Its a lot of work to swap a 3.7 diff into the front, so get that out of your head unless you really know what you're doing.

Just make sure the cooling system is in tip-top shape. An intercooler wouldn't be a bad idea. Also, if the turbo isn't watercooled on the BRAT, convert it to a watercooled turbo. They'll make your life easier. No car likes heat. Just Turbos create more heat.

Not really. The 4th gear on the 83+ 4spds is actually higher than the 5th gear on the 5spds (0.769 vs 0.780). On the 5spds, there just another gear lower than 0.78, but still above 1.0.

I would flip up and down real quick my XT's lights. If I get it right, it will wink at people.