mikeshoup

Easier, is to find some EA82 pistons. An EA82 might be easier to find then an EA71. Then you have choice of 9:1 pistons, or 9.5:1 pistons. Same bore, same wristpin height, etc as an EA81 piston. These are mostly myths. On the carb, the Jetting is almost the same. The secondary for the 2WD MT and AT, and 4WD AT is 145, whereas the jet 4WD MT has a 140. The other difference is the 2WD has a primary air bleed of 60, and the 4WD has one of 70. I don't see either of those making a huge difference at all. The advance curve on the disty though is not different. That's a myth. The FSM even shows the same exact advance curves for the two of them.

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This has been posted too many times, and every time I shudder at its fugliness. Yes, the guy did good body work. Wish I could do body work like that. But that thing is FUGLY. And there's nothing BRAT left on it. Its not a BRAT anymore. Its a Japanese truck that's turned into a wannabe American/redneck truck.

+1 for MWE.

100% The 86 FSM shows those ratings. As well as the SPFI cam is different still from the Carb cam. 88 FSM shows the same cams as in the 86 SPFI. Since in 88 there's no carb anymore, its moot.

Mean looking Coupe you got there!

Search. The answer is, yes.

Try 90HP and 110 ft-lb of torque with the SPFI (that's mostly in the cams though, and probably not so much in fuel delivery) Go for it. $300 is not bad at all for a car like that. There have been better deals of course, but those don't come by that often.

If your PCV system is hooked up like the diagram I posted, it is correct. Stop looking at it. No way will that cause problems unless there is a leak in it. Your next step is to verify the MAF is plugged in, and to verify all other vacuum hoses are hooked up correctly. Follow the intake tubing and what not, and follow all the ports on the manifold and make sure nothing is open to the air. Also, I'm assuming you have the AAV plumbed in correctly? (The thingy with two wires sticking on top of the T-Stat) It should have a hose that plumbs in after turbo, then another hose that goes to the throttle body after the throttle plate. And you're correct in your assumption that the PCV system should never see boost pressure.

nvexplorer, are you certain they're of the same design? The HTKYSA book says: This could be a mistake in the HTKYSA book though. Doubt it, but it could be. crazy D: Look at your new speedo cable. If there's a threaded ring, I'd think it'd be there on the new one.

Verify you are actually losing fuel when this happens. Though, since the gauge went from 1/4 to full, it sounds like your sending unit isn't working right.

Yeah, just compare the two. You'll be able to see if one has it and one doesn't. The EGR port is tapped into the side of the Exhaust port.

Apart from the 85 most likely being Gen 1 heads, and the 88 being Gen 2, there shouldn't be any trouble (the gen 2 is less likely to crack). The driver's side on the MPFIs should be the same as Turbos. Only thing I could think of is maybe you're missing an EGR port, but that can be tapped out. Go for it.

Don't plug that line! If you cut there, run that to the intake. You do not want to prevent the driver's side valve cover from breathing on its own. That's what you'll do if you plug it there. The way you have it set up is not correct, but will work. Ideally, separate the passenger side valve cover, and put that in a separate port into the intake boot. Your problem is NOT your pcv system provided there are no leaks in it. Below is what the CORRECT way should be:

I think the onwer's manual says something about every 15,000 miles? I forget what the interval is, but I figure if it gets regularly that dusty, I'll replace it. Aren't those oil filters? I would think it would say in the Weber booklet, though most cleanable filters you clean with water, let to dry, then oil the filters with some special air filter oil. Though, I would check the weber manual first.

The stock PCV system goes like this: P/S Valve Cover to the port at the bottom of the intake boot (before the turbo). D/S Valve Cover, Crankcase Breather and PCV valve connected together, then in to the other port on the intake boot. That's how it is supposed to be hooked up. Make sure there is no openings from the crankcase to the outside air. Loose things like Oil Cap and Oil Dipstick can cause running problems with this setup, because with in opening on the crankcase, it would allow unmetered air to enter the intake. If you remove it from the intake boot, plug the holes in the intake boot, and then connect the valve covers and crankcase breather all into a breather filter. Then plug the PCV valve.

Its easy to tell what water pump you have. If it has no A/C, is an XT, or usually if it has an inboard A/C pump, its the short hub (105mm). All others are the long hub (110mm).

You should see my air filter after driving back from the mountains. There's usually even little tiny rocks in the air filter. I just take mine out and vacuum it out. I still replace it after 10,000 miles though.

I was waiting for someone to mention leaving the covers on for this. Instead of restarting the debate, here it is in thread form: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54151

7k really isn't much for an EA82, considering the SPFI ones redline at 6500. Check the ignition components and make sure you're getting spark. You checked the timing belts, but did you check if they a jumped a couple teeth? I could see that happening. Good luck!

Highly unlikely you have an LSD. All of your soobs will have had 3.9 rear diffs, and 3.9 rear LSDs are extremely rare.

Well, in order to get it correct, you need the final drive with all of the reduction gears. Some vehicles, the spefications show a final drive of 3.9 on the rear diff, but a front diff of some other value. If you wanted to do this correctly, you need to list the front differentials, rear differentials, and any reductions gears in between.

I'd go for it. S-Wings is very reputable, and they know what they are doing. You can't go wrong with them. Another shop to check into is Super Rupair in Boulder. See how much they would charge for something like this.

I like that idea there McBrat. I think I'm gonna use it in my wagon. Another thing I noticed that really helps with this stuff, is redoing grounds. I use 12G wire, and run new grounds to the various ground points. Also, a lot of the factory ground points are painted, so I sand them down to metal and use a dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. Good stuff.

Do the timing belts. Leave the covers off. No special tools required. Just some sockets and wrenches. Also, while in there, replace: Camshaft seals Front main seal Oil pump seals Water pump (Really only if you put the covers back on. Much easier with them off) That will keep oil off of your belts for a long time.