mikeshoup

The TPS on your 86 is going to be completely different from the TPS in the aforementioned post. IMO, repositioning it is not going to help. It does NOT have a variable potentiometer. It has a closed throttle contact switch and a full throttle contact switch. The 83-86 MPFI systems do not use the TPS for accel enrichment like the rest of the FI systems do. Take a multimeter to your TPS and check for continuity. I believe the middle pin is ground and the outside pins are for the other switches. Verify that one switch is closed at closed throttle, and that the other one is closed at full throttle. That's all there is to your TPS. No repositioning will help. I do not believe your problem is the TPS. You need to run a compression test. Not to be alarming you, but rule this out.

There's too many difference between the older and newer systems to just swap the ECU and MAF. You'd also have to swap disty, TPS, wiring, and quite a few other things. There's a list somewhere of the differences between the two systems.

The two sensor types are completely different. They would not be compatible.

Where does the ECU ground wire go in an EA81T? I suspect much of my MAF sensor issues are due to poor grounding,

What's an easy to way to pull the wrist pins? The manual says to use a special tool. I don't have any special tools :-\

I've got an EA82 shortblock sitting in my backyard, it was left out in the snow, was no good to me and probably is now no good to anyone. I want to open it up and see how things are put together. How do I say, split the case halves? Keep in mind, I have no special tools, and don't care if I damage the block much more. Everything is still in it, pistons, etc. Can I just remove the bolts that hold the halves together and pull them apart even with the pistons and everything still attached?

I'm going to quote this from a thread earlier: You have to decrease the combustion chamber by 3.3 CCs, which is actually quite large. In order to achieve this by just increasing the depth the spark plug threads in, you'd have get it to thread 1.3 cm deeper. Seems to me you'll need to remove a lot of washers to get that number.

You simply just have to calm down and relax. Its an EA82 Turbo. Its going to a b*tch to get running. I just replaced the EA82T in my XT, and after I dropped it in, I had numerous problems. All were my fault. I fixed most of them, and it runs smooth (apart from the ginormous exhaust leak). If you're stripping threads that badly, you're not doing things right. The T-Stat bolts are always a PITA, but if you take your time, things won't strip. Use liberal amounts of PB Blaster to remove the bolts, then brush the bolts off and use anti-seize to install them. This will keep from stripping out the T-Stat housing. The EGR pipe is a PITA to get right, but if you take your time, you can get it threaded. If at any time, you think you are cross threading something, stop! I have to fix someone's mistake on my spark plugs on the turbo wagon. Plug #2 is obviously cross threaded.

The cam differences are more than just the engine compression. Its the year and fuel system. Here's the breakdown I have: 86 Carb/MPFI Turbo: Intake: 3 BTDC / 51 ABDC Exhaust: 47 BBDC / 7 ATDC 86 SPFI: Intake: 10 BTDC / 54 ABDC Exhaust: 49 BBDC / 15 ATDC 86 MPFI Non-Turbo: Intake: 12 BTDC / 58 ABDC Exhaust: 58 BBDC / 12 ATDC Notice: In 86, MPFI and Carb were 9:1, Turbo was 7.7:1 and SPFI was 9.5:1 88 SPFI: Intake: 10 BTDC / 54 ABDC Exhaust: 49 BBDC / 15 ATDC 88 MPFI Turbo: Intake: 14 BTDC / 56 ABDC Exhaust: 56 BBDC / 14 ATDC 88 MPFI Non-Turbo: Intake: 16 BTDC / 60 ABDC Exhaust: 60 BBDC / 16 ATDC Notice: In 88, MPFI was 9.5:1 compression. This is different from 86 which had 9:1 compression with MPFI There are probably more camshafts out there than just these. This is the only sampling I can provide with my 86 and 88 FSMs. The 84 EA81T and EA81 Carb has yet other different camshaft configurations, but it will not work in the EA82 for obvious reasons.

You could perhaps have air in your cooling system. Have you properly bled the air out? Subarus are notorious for having air in their cooling systems. You need to get the radiator cap above the heater core, and run it with the cap off. Then squeeze hoses until no more air comes out the cap. Could be a faulty gauge? Do you get plenty of heat through the vents when it dips to the C? Or do you not get any heat?

Use 10W-30, no thinner. Owner's Manual doesn't recommend 5W-30 for any highway speeds. Just too thin.

First question: Is your vehicle 4WD or not? If its 4WD, then you want a 5spd D/R from a 1985-1989 Wagon. Earlier sedans and coupes have D/Rs too, but they're the higher low range. If its FWD, they also made 5spd FWD trans. Contact Bratsrus1 (Jerry) and he has a kit that will allow you to bolt a 5spd D/R from an EA82 to your car.

50psi, there's no way the engine would run. If it really is 50psi, you blew something (think, headgaskets). My XT Turbo tested out at 115psi when warm, which is just above the minimum (114psi). Something's wrong, either your engine or your gauge.

Ross, I want your headlight washers! *cough* Start your own damn thread!

Is this thread 2 years old, yes.

Yay I wanna do that to my turbowagon. Question: How hard was the transmission to handle with what looks like just a regular floor jack? Most specifically, putting the manual trans in. (Mine's 4WD, so it will be a bit heavier though :-\ )

What's an OVC motor? Stock, your motor is rated at 82 HP, and 101 ft-lb of torque. You're not going to see much higher values than that with what you've done/going to do. Contrary to popular belief, removing smog junk that was functioning properly isn't going to open up hidden power that the 'tree huggers' robbed from your car. The only thing that will do much is the weber, and it'll give you a much broader power band.

Subaru lights are never bright enough. Most likely yours are out of adjustment and pointing at oncoming traffic. I believe those boxes are power inverters, as those HID lights need to run at high A/C voltage.

An example of the craziness, would be my 84 Turbo Wagon. Supposed to be top of the line model, every feature. Doesn't have Power windows, mirrors or locks. Nor does it have a sunroof. Go figure, eh?

I would say, try to get it running before doing the SPFI swap. That way, when you do the SPFI swap, you know it was running before, and then you can narrow down problems to the SPFI swap. Makes it a lot easier to trouble shoot if the car's been running previously.

Wow, sounds perfectly scientific, logical, and sound to me! Just like BGD's stuff!

An 87, so then I assume yours has a hotwire MAF? You have a FSM for the car you say? Go through the testing procedures in the FSM for the MAF. Shouldn't be too difficult to figure out the problem from there. (As long as you have a multimeter) Definitely clean it if its giving errors. Could also be that the little wires are loosely connected and/or broken, causing problems. My 84 Turbo (flapper MAF, not hotwire MAF) shows the MAF code, but its the wiring from the MAF to the ECU. Check that out to, and maybe try running wires straight from the MAF to the ECU. Good luck.

I'm not arguing that redline isn't good stuff. I'm sure its great stuff. But valvoline dino gear oil is not $10-$20 / qt. I believe you can get a quart for like $3-4

I paid $15 for a gallon jug of valvoline. Its still way cheaper than redline.

Jeff: Sure! I just filled Dorothy's tranny, so it might be kind of a waste to change it immediately, but maybe I'll save it for the 4spd D/R swap Anything around 75w90 will do. I think the Valvoline I buy is actually like 80w90 or something. Pretty much any commercially available automotive gear oil is manufactured at the same grade, so that shouldn't be a problem.