mikeshoup

Redline 75W90NS is the stuff I keep seeing posted about. Personally, I'm cheap and use cheap valvoline gear oil. A little stiff when col, but works fine otherwise.

Caboob's 5spd D/R is a FT4WD D/R out of an RX. A) If going on a non-Turbo car, you need Turbo axles. It has a pathetic low range. Just, FYI.

You almost never need gasket sealer for gaskets. Most gaskets will work fine without any extra sealants, etc. I'm sure the same is true about the carb gasket. Guy at NAPA was not a 'retard'.

If you want an FSM, SOA still sells them for 1984. I got mine for about $48 from subarugenuineparts.com MSA118 is the part number.

Not that this has anything to do with my engine's compression... But yeah, milage would decrease if compression decreased. The higher compression the engine has, the more efficient it is. The lower the efficiency, the lower the gas milage.

Yeah you can, KBD learned that on one rainy day going to the junkyard. Sidewinder (one of the local yards) had a huge puddle in the road going up to it. Drove his SPFI wagon through it. That was one rough ride back As far as your CEL, does it come on when you turn the keys to ON, but don't start? Perhaps the CEL burned out somehow?

There's no nuts in the roof. I believe the stock setup uses something like sheet metal screws. As far as sealant, I dunno. Btw, wait longer than 30 minutes for a reply :-p

Prospeeder: Best is to start your own thread instead of hijacking someone else's. His is a Brat which has a completely different fuel door from yours. Also, tried searching? I'm pretty sure I've read this covered a few times.

I just did a compression test on the EA82T I just put together and dropped in my XT. Since I put it in, the car stumbled a bit, and I wasn't sure if the head gaskets sealed properly. Cyl 1 - 100 Cyl 2 - 105 Cyl 3 - 95 Cyl 4 - 105 What do these results show me? Should I do a wet test now as well? Also, I didn't do this with the engine warm. I've heard I need to do it with the engine warm, and I've heard I don't. Is the engine supposed to be warm?

CTS? Does it idle fine and run well once started? My wagon would be hard to start when cold. It was the CTS wires. But it caused to have a rough idle and would stumble until warm. If yours runs fine once started cold, it probably isn't the CTS.

If the threads are stripped in the heads, do as I'm about to do. Tap the threads to the next largest standard sized, 7/16-14 (or -20 if you like finer threads). Then use stainless steel bolts with lock washers. That's what I intend to do on my XT.

It must be a year basis then. My 86 FSM says all turbo trans have the same gearing as the N/A 5s D/R. However, in 88 that's not the case as I just checked out. The S/R PT4WD trans has the same gearing as the FT4WD trans. So yeah, its a yearly thing.

FYI, the Turbo pushbutton 4WD tranny has the same gearing as the N/A 5spd D/R just with a 3.7 final drive ratio. Same goes for the Turbo pt4wd 5spd D/R, except it has a 3.7 final drive and the 1.2 low range. Meaning the PT4WD Turbo trannies have the highest 5th gear.

radiatorexpress.com sells two row replacement radiators for about $135. They say NON-TURBO, but there's no difference, so it works just fine. Get an T-Stat from the dealer. They have a much longer life. Sounds to me though, like you have a coolant leak somewhere. If there's no coolant in the overflow, that's a problem. There should be a little bit. Take off the rad cap and make sure there's coolant up to the neck.

Of course EA81 Rear axles are still made. I think the comment was referring to only one manufacturer no longer making them.

Sounds like the radiator is in need of care. If its a single core, replace it with a dual core radiator. Definitely check it out though, and make sure its not clogged, and that you don't have bad cases of fin rot. When I pulled the old radiator out of the XT, I had such a bad case of fin rot, that entire rows of fins were missing.

Your car is fuel injected, right? The meter will bounce back and forth when cruising. What you're watching is the computer constantly adjusting the mixture trying to maintain it at stoich.

Loyale: Sure: More pics at: http://gallery2.mshoup.us/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=507 I'm at my wits end. Drove the car today. Stumbled really badly, and smelled like burnt coolant. (definitely lost some too!) Either: A) The head gaskets didn't seal properly Sad The intake gaskets didn't seal properly (easy fix) I'm hoping for B. I checked the torque on the intake gaskets and they were to spec, so I'm going to run a compression test and see if I'm losing compression. Sad day. If the head gaskets didn't seal, I'm just going to sell the f*ing thing. I'm so tired of working on it and I don't have the money to continue.

There's a hefy performance increase (~10HP?) with the spider intake on MPFI engines. The intake air path is much smoother. Plus, it does just look cool!

Mid 90's Saturn seats huh? There's a rip in the driver's seat and some of the metal edges are starting to dig into my sides. Gonna have to go find that Saturn S with that tan interior in the junkyard. (I'm sure there's plenty abound)

The unicorn, 87.5 Turbo XT had the Turbo Spider Intake. Also, EDM XT Turbos 87.5+ have turbo spider intakes. Mostly because they never got the XT6. Otherwise, any 88-91 XT 4 cylinder has one. There's actually one or two in the local yards. If I had more money, I was gonna pull one and throw it on Dorothy.

From what I understand, there was a rally team that put performance parts on a Subaru RX. Somewhere there's a technical document describing this Rally RX. In 85-86, the RX was a sedan, and then in 87+ it was a coupe. Makes sense to me that they'd rally that instead of a wagon.

The EA81 was introduced in 1980 I beleive, but yeah, I think you're correct. Also, I think its 82 and up have larger valves?

I thought 83 and 84 Automatics had hydros, then 85+, which includes Turbos cuz they only came in Automagic.

The XT is back up and running! I haven't driven it yet (roommate's truck is blocking the driveway ), but its seems to run decent. Problems I noticed: 1: Exhaust leak before the turbo. I need to take a look at the at the exhaust studs, as I think I have one or two that are stripped. 2: Coolant leak, that I actually just found. The return line for the turbo had a loose hose clamp. It started spraying coolant onto the turbo making for some steamy sexiness. Otherwise, she's running again. I'm glad. I spent far too many months trying to get this back together (read, beginning of October). The old engine is sitting in shortblock style. Blown rings and all. Anyone want the scrap metal?