mikeshoup

Seems like to me Bgd discovered what everyone else has been doing for years...

Get the engine from an 1981-1984 cars, up to 1989 two door hatchbacks, and up to 1987 BRATs. They'll probably come with a 4 spd D/R. I'd go with a 5spd D/R from an EA82, which will be 1985-1989 Sedans and wagons. Some of the 3 door coupes come with a higher low range which you wouldn't want, as well as any turbo that came with a D/R.

EA82 Brushguards were never made. They stopped making them after the EA81s. You'll have to adapt something.

Call a dealer, they'd know. Otherwise, give them the serial number of the block. They might be able to tell you what year it came from.

The way a flat four works is simple. The front two cylinders are paired, and the rear two are paired, meaning the go up and down with each other. There's a power stroke every 180 degree rotation of the crankshaft. Cylinder 1 is the first to fire (front p/s). While Cylinder 1 is on its power stroke, cylinder 2 (front d/s) is on its intake stroke (they both go 'down'). Cylinder 3 (rear p/s) is on its compression stroke and cylinder 4 (rear d/s) is on its exhaust stroke. Cylinder 3 fires putting it on its power stroke, cylinder 4 is on its intake stroke, cylinder 1 is on its exhaust stroke and cylinder 2 is on its compression. This is repeated with the other side of the engine. There may be other firing orders, but its always the same two cylinders banked together, and its always two on each side fire successively. All subaru flat-4s fire 1-3-2-4 btw.

Okay, so that is stock. I was trying to figure it out on my wagon why the dash temp sensor was located where it was.

Except the PT4WD transmissions have no center diff

The HTKYSA guy did it. Mabye he had small woman hands

Actually, its only the 85-86 Turbos that don't have a true TPS, and that's on all cars. XT or Non-XT. All 87+ Turbos have a true TPS. Non-XT and XT both. The difference in 87+ is some have a four wire TPS like the SPFI, and others have a three wire TPS, then an extra plug for the idle switch and full throttle switch. At least, this is as the FSM says. You may need to use the GL-10 intake manifold on the XT engine. You may need to swap power steering pumps, or swap hoses, as the XT uses a different pump. Otherwise, shouldn't be too bad.

Wasted spark on the EJs goes 1-2, and 3-4 fyi.

Sweet wagon! Keep up the good work. Looks like it'll turn out to be one hell of a car. What if you convert a car from a automatic to a stick? Does that make it a sweet transvestite (from Transexual, Transylvania)?

Interesting, though I don't think the EPA's rules are mandate over state laws. If so, Colorado should have a 20 year exemption, and that'd be freaking sweet. Both my cars would be exempt now.

Compressors cost money, and so does Freeze-12. An alternator bracket would be fairly easy to find in a junkyard. Plenty of DLs with out A/C. Buying a compressor from a junkyard, would be hit or miss if it worked.

I mean, there's no external ballast resistor at all on it. My 86 XT doesn't have one, so I'd assume yours doesn't either. I might be wrong on this, but I don't think any of the stock coils have an external resistor. I've never seen one at least. Perhaps you're thinking of the little black box on the coil bracket, that's the ignitor.

What bracket would I want to use if I removed the A/C compressor from my Turbo wagon? The compressor turns on and makes a really loud howling/screeching sound that doesn't sound pretty, and I just want to remove the A/C components. Would a standard EA81 Alternator bracket work? or would an EA82 alternator bracket w/o A/C work? I noticed the EA81T has a different bracket setup than non-turbos. I can't just remove the A/C compressor and run a different sized belt since top bracket for the alternator bolts to the compressor.

If its the stock coil, there's no ballast resistor needed on it.

Actually, they would've been paid for by ESP, the company running the E-Test stations. But yeah, its a very good thing they didn't break my car. If nothing else though, I could've gotten free front brakes out of the deal (which the turbo wagon needs done... pretty badly).

For that much, it should be in near mint condition. $2k is way too much to pay for any 80s subaru. Talk them down to $1,000, and then *maybe* consider it.

Can someone verify that these would fit on my gen 2?

Oh yeah, forgot to mention they told me like three times, the car needs to be on the AWD dyno. I told them like three times, its only part time 4WD and is normally FWD. I remember getting my silver wagon e-tested, and they asked me the same question, why do you have a spare tire over your engine? At least they believed me when I told them it was FWD normally.

Took the 84 Turbo Wagon to get Emissions Tested. Colorado does the I/M 240 test, where they throw your car on a dyno, bring it up to speeds, measure the exhaust as your accelerating, decelerating, etc. Really cool test, fun to watch. I pull up. No one in line. I thought, today was going to be a good day. They throw my car on the dyno. I was watching the test screen, and the driver lady had trouble getting it up to speed. The front of the car started shuddering, I thought "She has the e-brake on!". I come running out of the waiting room flailing my arms. I tell the lady, take the e-brake off. She looks at me funny. I tell, the e-brake is on the front brakes. She says "Oh really? Okay." Now that fiasco was over, she retests it. It does fine, but, she forgot to flip on their large giant cooling fan! Near the end of the test, they bring the car up to 65mph. My two cooling fans on the radiator can not mimic 65mph of air running through the radiator. She finishes the test, and the car spews coolant all over the dyno (no reserve tank on the EA81s). I laughed as she drives my car forward, mops up all the coolant on the ground, and tells the people sitting behind my car to go to the next lane so they can dry off the dyno. Gave me a passing certificate at least. In two more years though, the wagon will only have to do a two speed idle test. No more funky dyno for it. I hate emissions testing. I know it does good, but they need to train their testers.

They look like the ones on my Turbo wagon (84, Gen 2). I think if you got one with 'wagon' wheels, you had those center caps. Mine are black, and those are pretty! Me want.

Just don't go super fast on dry pavement in 4WD. You run the risk of torque bind in a straight at higher speeds if there's any discrepancies in tire size difference.

Never done it first hand, so GD would probably know more. From my understanding, not running the ECM forces the duty solenoid to be open 100%, making your mixture way rich.

It should be pretty obvious where the short bolts go and the long bolts go. The short bolts are recessed further into the head than the long bolts. If you can't figure it out, thread in the long bolts until either a) the head of the bolt bottoms out or the bottom of the bolt bottoms it out. If the bottom of the bolt bottoms out (meaning you hit the bottom of the threads), then that's a hole for a short bolt.