mikeshoup

The head on the factory hose clamps are still hexagonal. Should be able to get something around them, pair of pliers, a crescent wrench, etc.

Any of you have poor conditions to work outside on? The place I'm living at right now, the only place I have to work on my car is either on the street (I'm not a fan of that), or in a gravel driveway. What kind of tips do you guys have for working on gravel? Well, not so much gravel per say as medium rocks. Any time I stick a jack stand on the gravel, it just sinks in once the weight of the car is set on it. Also, I find the fact the ground isn't very level makes it difficult to lift a car evenly. So, what do you guys do?

The gurgling swishing sound is: you have air in your cooling system. You need to park the car with the nose up in the air, take the rad cap off, run the car, and once it warms up, the level should drop as air gets past the thermostat. Seriously, bleeding the cooling system on these cars is a pita sometimes (especially on the XTs, what with their raking forward and all...)

I'm so confused. Drove the car around for 20 min today, and no trouble at all with surging.

It was a Euro thing. Some Volvos even had it.

+1 Though I think Dorothy is warming up to me. Maybe she's mad cuz the previous owner kicked the door. :-\

Wait, they made an EA83? I'm assuming you meant EA82. Get some 5/8" heater hose and call it good. As a temporary solution, take the one heater hose that isn't popped, take it off the heater core, and loop to where the other hose goes into the engine. This bypasses the heater core. Sure, no heat, but you can at least drive it safely now.

The oil caps can be purchased brand new. Any auto parts store should be able to at least special order you one. I got one for Dorothy for about $6 at Checker. They special ordered one from Stant.

Run a compression check on the motor to rule out that it isn't low compression causing problems on cyl#1

He also said do not use the GL/DL body. It didn't help that BGD's post was confusing due to lack of sentence structure.

EJ20G powered EA81 Coupe.

That blows. Might explain the lack of starting. My wagon has a nice SPFI engine, and the whole car is for sale

Okay, so this 84 TWag I just bought starts to surge, then the ECS light flickers. I've been looking and trying to find the black plugs to connect to pull up the stored codes, but there is no black connectors!? I seem to remember reading in a previous thread that the EA81Ts don't store codes. So how do I find out what code its throwing? The light just flickers, it doesn't ever stay on.

+1

Injector needing rebuilt? Sounds like bull manure. I doubt a pin on the ECU is to blame (though I could be wrong). How old is the O2 sensor? Does your car have the check engine light on? How old is the tune up stuff?; IE: spark plugs, wires, disty cap, rotor, pcv valve. Have you been driving it harder lately? Worst case scenario, I have a throttle body with injector off of a sedan that had 52,000 miles on it sitting next to me here. I'd part with that.

Could very well be a wheel bearing. If the wah wah sound is kind of a dull roar, it could be wheel bearings. Definitely check the U-Joints on the drive shaft. My wagon had a snapped U-Joint on it when I bought it, and it would cause a weird vibration whether or not it was in 4WD.

Search my young padiwan. All your answers can be found. Just search for EJ22 swap. In fact, this thread will be of much help to you: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48848&highlight=EJ22+Swap That's your last free search from me.

+1 As long as all 8 bolts are removed, it shouldn't be too difficult to separate.

This could be because the 4EAT was rare in the EA gen. They only made it a few years before they went back to the 3AT for the Loyale. XT6 is the only vehicle that its common on.

Even if the dealer isn't required, usually the PO's name will be on the title (note: not the original owner, just the previous). At least in Colorado, the dealer doesn't have to get a new title when its signed over to them. I purchased a Toyota at a dealer where the title that had 5 dealer signings on it, and the front had the PO's name and number.

The rear driveshaft is piss easy. Just remove the four bolts that bolt it to the rear diff, the two bolts holding the carrier bearing to bottom of the car, then just slide it out of the trans.

I'm gonna stop driving. This is a bad season for wrecking soobs it seems. What's worse, is two were wrecked in this case! Good luck with things. Best part is no one was hurt. I hope you find just as cool a replacement as your previous soob.

No one makes custom heads. You'll find very little aftermarket support for these engines. There's a reason they're not popular soup up toys.

They are supposed to seal. The crankcase gets fresh air from the intake.

Its not just a linear 500RPM drop... its a ratio. 23/27 = 0.85 That means, you're final drive ratio is actually around 85% of what it originally was. So if you're vehicle has 3.9 gearing, this increase in tire size effectively makes the gearing: 3.32 If you were driving at 6000RPM, you're actually driving at 5111RPM for the same speed. The joys of math :-p