mikeshoup

Phil fails at spelling Beau Jo's on google. I vote we take this route: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&hl=en&geocode=10200945315437794559,39.741891,-105.516816&saddr=CO-93+and+Washington,+Golden,+CO&daddr=39.742042,-105.285416+to:1517+Miner+St,+Idaho+Springs,+CO+80452+(Beau+Jo's+Pizza)&mra=dpe&mrcr=0&mrsp=1&sz=11&via=1&sll=39.737818,-105.332794&sspn=0.218598,0.466919&ie=UTF8&z=11&om=0 I-70 would save 10 minutes, but its less scenic and has more hills than US 6.

Fuel injection or carb? Did you at any point in time disconnect the battery terminals? If its FI, does the check engine light, or ECS light come on when you turn the key to on?

Yank out the deck, does it start now?

That's not "normal" for a temperature gauge in these cars. Every one I've owned sits at about a third. Verify it with an aftermarket gauge. The fact it rose up to a third then dropped down is a good sign you have an air pocket in your cooling system. Make sure to bleed all the air out.

I'm with nipper. Maybe the flexplate broke. Pull off the timing inspection cover and spin the engine. See if you see anything wrong.

I'm all for the 7-11. Its closer to my house, and closer to US 6 which we can take up to Idaho Springs.

wolfwrangler: that's nice and all. However, you need to perform tests with the scientific method in a controlled environment before you'll ever convince me. There's way too many variables in the natural environment that can so easily throw off your test data. When Mythbusters put their GM car with a carb on a dyno, the acetone actually showed a slight drop in fuel mileage. (Which actually makes sense since acetone burns slower than regular gasoline) However, the decrease in mileage was so small, it could easily be accounted elsewhere. They had it in a more controlled environment, using a dyno to control the environmental variables. But note, they did not see these huge 3-4 mpg improvements that other sites claim. How many tanks did you run with acetone? How many without did you run in between? Did your driving habits change at all? IE: Less highway trips, etc. Was the weather the exact same between tanks? And again, can you account for the subconscious factor which is seemingly real? I think its great that it works for you and you should continue to use it. I however, am not convinced that it works and that it is worth the potential damage to my fuel system.

I like Colorado. They no longer fail emissions for a CEL.

I've added acetone to a couple vehicles. My 88 GL Wagon, noticed NO improvements. My 89 GL Coupe, notice NO improvements. I want to know what the chemistry behind acetone is that it magically helps your car improve gas mileage. I'd go more with the theory that the acetone is cleaning out the fuel system than anything and the theory that your increase in gas mileage is likely due to a subconscious altering of your driving style to increase gas mileage. I personally found this article very interesting: http://www.fuelsaving.info/acetone.htm

I've got the camera covered with my Christmas present this year. A Pentax K100D Super Digital SLR. I'm cool with the "Milk House"

I learned my lesson about just RTV'ing cooling system components when I saw the green stuff pool up around the T-Stat housing. But antifreeze sure does smell good when it steams. Yum. Antifreeze.

Hopefully I'll have my water pump leak fixed by then

Consider this: EA81 Carb has 73 horsepower. EA82 Carb has 84 horsepower. EA82 SPFI has 90 horsepower, but also has different cams from the carb version. The EA81 with SPFI will have lower horsepower than an EA82 SPFI. How much, well that's not easy to guess at.

Yeah, its not instant on or anything. It'll help if you make sure the vacuum line running up to the solenoids and the lines running off of the solenoids are in good shape. Also, the engine has to be under vacuum for it to work. So the pedal needs to not be depressed, or only slightly depressed.

Oh man, I want a pair. Put me down too.

I'm in, for whatever and wherever. I'll be free the 23rd.

It is crawlerdan's old one. Yodannyc purchased it and is now selling it.

Actually, I believe that relay is from the 3AT. I believe its called the "4WD-AT Checker." That's what it looks like in my 83 FSM. I remember mine made that clicking noise too. I just yanked it, and it never seemed to have an effect on anything.

The cruise control on my 88 GL felt the same. That kinda feathering feel almost. I don't know if that's how it normally worked, or if its due to old age.

My old coupe had a D/R. Just keep looking

I go into the local auto parts store and order a new cap for $7. That's what I do.

So, my 9th car is a 1994 Loyale. Got it for a decent deal. 205,000 miles. I wanted a Legacy, but those things just kept going quick.

My rear main was leaky on the turbo wagon when I pulled the transmission off the last time. It was replaced. It is a good idea to replace the rear main now. However, that rubber orange ring thing. I remember that too. I pitched it. Its been running fine for the past 10,000 miles, no mysterious oil leaks (I know where they all are ). The oil on one side of that ring is probably due to a leaky rear main, and nothing else.

Nice job on reviving a 5 month old thread. I don't even own the car any more. Check the dates on threads before reviving them.

I vote for the heater hose. On the water cooled turbo retrofit, the temp sender is relocated to the heater hose. If it worked for Subaru, it works for me.