mikeshoup

There's LOTS of discussion on modding EA82Ts. The end result, someone usually blows one up. They're weak. HGs, stick with Subaru or Fel-Pro. At 14 pounds, I'd be worried about blowing head gaskets. I wouldn't worry about the bottom end if you can't keep the head gaskets from blowing. Keep the thing running cool. Use the search function, this topic has been covered well, and numerous amounts of times. Plenty of threads on the subject.

Newer Subarus are hard to find in junkyards, period.

I'd call up CCR. See what they suggest. Especially since there's a warranty on that motor.

AND PCV valves. The aftermarket ones stick open easily and pull too much vacuum. At least, that's what searching has pulled up.

The corvair engine spins counter-clockwise iirc. It'd be hard to mate that to a Subaru tranny. Sako: I have no idea what you're saying. The bell housing is the round part on the backside of the motor and front of the tranny that the flywheel and clutch/torque converter is housed. The largest difficulty mating up an engine to tranny is getting the two bell housings to bolt up. Then you have to find a clutch/flywheel combo that works. This can be easy, or very hard to do.

Really? I ALWAYS find Subarus there. Mostly EA82s, but they're there. I've never been there and not seen a Subaru.

Smothering RTV is usually worse than a light coating. Especially because it will squish out around the outside, and inside and get sucked up into the water flow. Personally, I just give the gasket a light coating on either side of RTV, then slap it on. Never leaked. You just haven't had good luck it sounds like.

Found these in the gallery: Found 'em in Northwet's gallery.

Dorothy's engine has the crank sprockets 'misaligned'. As was stated earlier, it won't run right unless they are. One side is like 44 teeth from the crank sprocket to the cam sprocket, and the other is like 40.5. They need to be misaligned to allow for this extra half tooth. Another one for evidence, my original shortblock in Dorothy originally came from either a carb, or an SPFI (never knew for sure), and the crank sprockets were yet, misaligned as well. I bet if someone looked in the FSM, it would actually show this as well. I'm going to say, double check your carby motor just to make sure you're not crazy. Take a digicam pic if you can and prove us all wrong. I'm not saying you're wrong, but all my physical evidence says you are.

There's two relays mounted behind the p/s strut tower. One is for A/C, and one is for the fan. I can't remember which. I *think* the tan colored one is for the fan, and the black is for the A/C.

Basically, when you're looking online at any auto parts stores, especially those owned by autopartswarehouse (which the one you found is, and the majority of online parts houses), if you see OEM, it just means its an OEM fit. I've purchased numerous "OEM" items from said websites, and they all came back as an item that fit like OEM but was obviously a different brand. The only way to be guaranteed a part you are getting is OEM is to purchase it from a dealership. That's not to say OEM parts can't be had from places besides the dealer, you just have to know what the name brands the dealer sells are.

Dirty Injector maybe? Might have something blocking it from supplying enough fuel at full throttle. Heck if I know though.

Yeah, that's the Auxiliary Air Valve. And looking at the FSM, it appears to be what controls the cold idle of the car.

O-Ring sounds possible. What about the bypass hose that connects to the top of the water pump?

Are you talking about the thing sitting on top of the t-stat housing? That's the AAV. I'm not entirely sure of the purpose, I think it helps control the idle. You'll find the hose on it heads back into the intake plenum (the silver thingy that says turbo).

A person a couple posts up asked if they could increase engine braking by introducing more air into the engine... ...

Yeah, but these Subaru engines provide plenty of engine braking for Colorado. No need to do extensive modifications to increase engine braking, not that its really all that feasible to begin with.

Most websites when they say OEM doesn't mean its an OEM product (IE: the same one that came with the car, or the one the dealership provides). It means its an OEM fit and doesn't require modifications. Doesn't always mean its up to OEM standards.

The only supplier for sure of OEM radiators is the OEM (Subaru). Listen to some of the recommendations from us. Purchase from say radiatorbarn, or radiatorexpress or performance radiator. I personally think the radiator you got was a fluke. I've purchased a cheap ($60) radiator for my wagon that's holding up just fine and doesn't feel cheap at all.

Do you like red?

If the underneath of your hood doesn't mention a vac advance, then you don't have it.

Yup. The D/R FT4WD is as rare as an 87+ RX.

Just need to correct your math a little (sorry, I'm a wannabe math teacher, its habit). Vbdc == Volume of chamber with piston at Bottom Dead Center Vtdc == Volume of chamber with piston at Top Dead Center Vdis == Individual piston displacement. Vdis = pi*(Bore/2)^2*stroke = 445 cm^3 (makes sense, 445 * 4 = 1781) CR = Vbdc/Vtdc Vbdc = Vtdc + Vdis CR = (Vtdc + Vdis)/Vtdc CR = 1 + (Vdis/Vtdc) Vtdc = Vdis / (CR-1) In a 9.5:1 EA82, Vtdc (V2 in the article) is 52.3 cc In a 9.0:1 EA82, Vtdc is 55.6 cc You were close, but that's the correct number. Still, same thing. 3CC's in the TDC combustion chamber makes the difference for 9.5 to 9.0. 3 CCs is actually quite large though. If you have an 18mm spark plug, the cross sectional area is 2.5cm^2. In order to subtract 2ccs, the spark plug would have to protrude nearly a centimeter, which from a picture you posted earlier does not look like it. The washer is at most, 3 mm thick would you say? That's only subtracting 0.7ccs from Vtdc. On the 9.5:1 motor, that bumps the compression up to 9.62. Yes, a gain, but not all that significant.

The FT4WD w/ Diff Lock came in both GL-10s and XT6s. The XT6 had a 3.9 rear end, and the GL-10s had a 3.7 rear end. RX was the only one with FT4WD and D/R.

This isn't in an EJ swapped soob, but my brother drove my mom's 99 Leg through a deep puddle. Got out through the other side and the engine wasn't running. Ended up needing a new MAP sensor, AIT sensor, and a coilpack to get it running again. Of course, earlier models will have a MAF sensor and not a MAP sensor