mikeshoup

Even the EA81 Turbos had MPFI (they had ports tapped into the heads for the fuel injectors...)

You need an equation, not an algorithm. That'll probably help you further. Here's a quick article that I pulled up on google. Perhaps this will help you a bit: http://e30m3performance.com/myths/more_myths1/comp_ratio/comp_ratio.htm The general equation though is: CR = V_BDC/V_TDC

I have yet to retire a Subaru, though rust is coming close to retiring my brother's 3 door coupe. It'll either see a part out, or the crusher.

With cars, you need to be as specific as possible. Remember, the Justy's have three valves per cylinder. Not three intake and exhaust per cylinder, but I seem to remember it being two intake and one exhaust, though I'm sure someone will correct me.

The plug at the top looks like it says "Autolite". If so, that ain't any NGK.

+1 on the boost gauge. The stock "BC" is called the wastegate duty solenoid. Being his is an 86, it won't have it. 87+ used the duty solenoid for things like altitude compensation. You should plumb in the boost controller between the wastegate and the compressor housing.

http://www.google.com/search?q=define%3Arice More seriously: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rice_burner Google is great.

Can't go, I'll be marching with the school's band in the Golden Christmas Parade at 11:00. If you guys are still in Golden at 11:00, come to Washington Ave along downtown Golden, I'll be there.

$160 is about right. Its not all that expensive for an entire clutch kit. Shoot, I paid $260 for the one on my Toyota Paseo a few years back. Be glad its only $160.

Glad to hear its all back. This is a good community here, and I'm sure there's plenty members in WA willing to help you get the thing back to a good shape.

Careful on saying the flat fours are balanced. They have an excellent primary balance (the momentum of the pistons is balanced), but they don't have a very decent kinetic energy balance because one side of the engine has two power strokes, then the other side. The large heavy flywheels on these help to make up for that and absorb the extra vibrations.

You can leave the crankcase breather out of the equation. You may experience more oil in the PCV lines though, so beware of that. Otherwise, it'll be just fine.

Scratch this, in a later post you specify its an 87.

4 hours is about right, especially for a first time (well, at least with the engine in the car). I think when I changed the t-belts on the wagon, took me about 3 hours for my first time ever. I didn't put the covers back on though. I just ripped 'em off because the suckers didn't want to come off. Now doing the t-belts with the engine out of the car, 15 minutes, 5 of which were spent searching for the bag of t-belt bolts Not that I would ever take the enigne out of the car just to do t-belts.

Welcome to the world that is Subarus!

Two row radiators aren't necesarily cheap, but I got mine from radiatorexpress.com for my XT (mostly, because they're the only place who stocked one for an XT). I hear radiatorbarn.com is good as well. You may just need a new thermostat. Take the old one out and replace it with an OEM thermostat. Then see what happens.

It sounds like to me your radiator is clogged up / bad. Look at cleaning out your current radiator or getting a new one. You also could have a bad thermostat. Could be stuck half way open.

Read the SPFI conversion manual. http://mshoup.us/docs/spfi_conversion_manual.pdf

But before you go through that trouble, verify spark. Its so easy to do.

Mountain Driving + Snow, sure I'm in! As long as a I don't roll a car this time

The high comp motor in my dorothy blew. I had a stock VF7 with an SPFI shortblock. Ended up with blown rings. It could be because the milage of the SPFI block was unknown. A stock block is going back in.

Because the older cars are cooler than a legacy, plus they're lighter, plus dual range, etc. Its mostly all in personal preference.

Might as well check for compression if you're going to change the spark plugs. However, I still think you should pull the intake boot off and have someone crank it while looking down the TB. You should see fuel spraying from the injector. Also, the Fuel Pump won't 'cycle' with the connectors disconnected. It will come on for a very short time. I almost never hear mine. Disconnect the electrical connector at the fuel pump. Hook up your VOM to the body side connector, and have someone turn on the car. You should measure a voltage for a brief moment. (Mine is so brief that the numbers on the meter just jump, they don't actually reach 12V. Its just too quick) Then check for spark. If you have fuel and spark, then check for compression. Compression would be my last suspect.

Have you looked down the TB when the engine is cranking? You should be able to see gas sprayed. Doesn't sound like to me fuel is the problem. Have you checked for sparks at each of the four plugs?

Connect the green connectors. You should be able to hear the fuel pump cycle when you turn the key on. It will cycle just about every second with the green connectors.